Cantering Along

Another 120 miles on my tubby tourer, pleased with the recent revisions, I decided it was time to dial in the Genetic CX cantilevers. There was a little too much lever travel, for my tastes. Thankfully, they’re much easier to hone, than the otherwise impressive IRD CAFAM2. Pull cable and straddle wires through a few mm, tweak balance screws-Result!

Switched to The Muc-Off Dry Lube, since opportunity presented. A freshly cleaned and lubricated chain always makes the drivetrain feel that bit fresher. However, 100 miles or so later, I'm increasingly forming the opinion that friction is lower than the Zefal Pro Dry Chain Lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-pro-dry-lube and Finish Line Dry lubes https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/finish-line-dry-bike-lube  which is going some.  

Shifting feels almost instantaneous, in both directions across the block, even under load. The pronounced lack of friction just encouraged me to increase my temp. I’ve also concluded gearing is bang on, for the riding contexts intended.

Admittedly, I could go slightly lower, for heavier trailer loads, but for time being I’ll leave be. Durability is another consideration (especially given the Muc-Off Dry Lube’s relatively long curing period).

However, I’ve gone past the 160-mile stage without any hint of waning. In common with some wax formulas, several days at 23-28 degrees, and its assumed that fluid consistency. Lubricant has seeped deep within the chain, and a filmy, residual layer is clinging to the cassette. It’s also quite tacky to touch, though transfer to fingers/clothing hasn’t proved overly problematic, thus far.

For some folks, the lube debate is binary i.e. if you’re riding in wet/changeable weather, stick to a wet formula. Dry, for arid, dusty conditions. However, given the UK’s notoriously changeable climate, I like something that can bridge the gap, resisting those unpredictable showery periods, without attracting a gungy beard. 

That said and testing aside; chances are you’ll find my chains running a stoical wet formula, such as Weldtite TF2 Extreme wet chain lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/weldtite-tf2-extreme-wet-chain-lubr  or, if I want to keep maintenance times down, something like SKS lube your chain, which locks the grot within the top layer. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/sks-lube-your-chain

This might look unsightly but is “embalming” the chain. Crap eventually flakes away in chunks, leaving only a layer of lubricant behind.  Here’s an overview to lubes, if you’re new to riding, or want to explore the best option(s), for you. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/blank-ao363

Elsewhere, I’m also warming to the Oxford Contour flow saddle. 120 mixed terrain miles in, the relatively narrow profile and sensibly proportioned padding density are proving a winner for my derriere. I was slightly surprised to discover the rails are a solid steel, which would probably explain the weight differential, compared with those sporting hollow Cro-moly. 

4130 is common at this price point too, and my preference.

Is it a deal breaker? Not necessarily, why bemoan a few grams, if the saddle fits your shape and goes unnoticed, in the most positive sense. Will give it another 250 miles before reaching a conclusive verdict, mind.

Those seeking a wallet friendly 6061 post, with classic lines might be interested in Steve’s review of the Genetic Heritage II sea tposthttps://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-heritage-ii-seat-post  . Right, off to play with the Ravemen PR1200 USB Rechargeable Dual lens Front Light.

Lock-rings are Like Busses....

I’d been waiting ten days for one, then, in alignment with Murphy’s law, two arrived-a day apart. Some of you will be thinking hmm, couldn’t you just use a cassette lock-ring, after all they tighten using the same tool? Yup; got curious and took that route, with one from a 12tooth cassette but can confirm incompatibility.

No matter, a lick of Park PL1 grease, nipped 40nms tight, wheels were swapped, and testing of the Halo/ShutterPrecision SL9 commenced.

Size was the SV9’s initial draw. I was curious to see how it compared to the SV8. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-rim-and-shutter-dynohub-disc-b  Some Audax and winter roadies were impressed with the SV8’s output. Several commented they would want something sleeker than this and other, more traditional dynohubs.

According to the Shutter Precision blurb, the SL9 is an improvement on its predecessors, achieving similar output and lower resistance in a more compact package.

A moot point with smaller wheels, its been suggested there may be some loss of output on 700c builds, depending on other factors, such as lamp output/quality. I’m yet to notice any drop thus far but we’ll see what presents in the next 400 miles or so. 

In other respects, the wheel arrived true and very well tensioned, with no hint of pinging, or similarly disconcerting sounds, associated with bedding-in.

Stark contrast to the Teenage Dream’s Mavic Ma2/Campagnolo Athena wheelset, bought mail order, back in 1991. Right from the first few pedal strokes, those stainless spokes were pinging n’ popping for the first five miles. I let them bed in for a week, or so, then headed to my local wheel builder, for a quick tune up.

Admittedly, said machine doesn’t do massive mileages, at least compared with my Univega and working fixed. However, 27 years hence, they’re still serving me well enough, so can’t’ve been too badly built!

Back to the SP, I will alternate between the Trelock https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/trelock-ls960i-dynamo-front-light  and Exposure Revo (MK1) lamps, see how the hub behaves over the coming month, 400 miles. With autumn’s silent, incremental creep, I’m working through summer kit, treating the KA’s chassis and underside with home brewed Waxoyl and contemplating the winter riding wardrobe.

The working bikes chains are presently dressed in this Weldtite TF2 advanced ceramic chain wax. Now, there will be some of you, who will say wax lubes can be made for literally pennies, at home using a mix of candle wax, Xylene and other solvents. True and I’ve been very impressed by this backyard alchemy.

However, these are very volatile and could very well result in a major, life changing explosion. DISCLAIMER: ANY BACKYARD ALCHEMY IS PERFORMED ENTIRELY AT YOUR OWN RISK.

If price is your sole motivator, buy five litres of basic 15w/40 motor oil and apply half a capful to your chain(s) wipe away the excess fastidiously and clean contaminant from the side plates, on a weekly basis. Cleanliness, low maintenance and indeed, low friction are the main draws of wax lubes.

With the traditional/emulsion types, contaminant became embedded and then flaked away, leaving a thin layer of lubricant behind. Fine in dry, dusty conditions, they were easily dismissed come the first hint of a shower.  

More recent, sophisticated formulas tend to run cleaner in the first instance and are becoming increasingly durable. So far, I’ve done 250miles on the first helping, in changeable, although primarily dry conditions.

I am expecting it to cruise past the 400mile marker, without relenting. Cleanliness, is closer to Smoove Universal Chain Lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/smoove-universal-chain-lube-summer-  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/tf2    rather than its TF2 counterpart. There is some modest contaminant and a 10hour curing period won’t suit everyone, but on the plus side, it seems more resilient.  

I’m naturally intrigued as to its longevity during precipitation and general seasonal dampness. Given forecasters are promising an Indian Summer, it may well be in evidence several weeks down the line.

Suddenly September

 

September has arrived, with different, though very positive energy. Some people feel a sense of sadness, as the leaves turn auburn but for me, it’s always been a time of optimism. From a journalist’s perspective, it’s time for trade shows and exciting new kit.

Testing takes on a new dimension too. The weather is still temperate and relatively kind to components, yet changeable enough to keep things interesting. Longer, steady night rides, or the usual routes take on a new character, with changing light and temperature. That said; conditions still permit lightweight, friction busting, dirt phobic chain lubes. Since we’re on the subject, the Weldtite TF2 Ultra dry wax is holding up pretty well and as I’d expect, running very clean.

There’s no such thing as the wrong weather, rather it’s the wrong kit.

Twenty years ago, high power rechargeable lights commended £200. No longer does this mean a heavy lead acid battery that consumed a bottle cage. A 900 lumen compact torch light, such as this Xeccon spear costs less than £60 and in the highest setting, will still run for 90minutes from a fully juiced 2600amh, replaceable cell.

At the other extreme, there’s a town friendly, cell sipping 230 lumen mode, reckoned to deliver 6hrs 30 minutes from a full charge. I haven’t verified this, or the claims of 35 hours in strobe. Now, I’m fully aware that auction site specials, capable of twice this output (on paper) fuelled by relatively small lithium ion battery packs, can be had for £20.

Sure, they’re bright but the quality of output isn’t necessarily that good, thanks to basic lens and reflector. Similarly, although many are offering a 500lumen and strobe settings, the former is still overkill for suburban contexts. Again, being someone who does a lot of miles along pitch black lanes, I’m intrigued by those boasting big numbers.

I was particularly impressed last year, by Moon meteor storm pro https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/moon-meteor-storm-pro-front-light The Xeccon spear is very reminiscent of Moon LX760 that we also tested in Seven Day Cyclist last autumn. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/moon-lx760-front-light  It uses the same Cree XM2 diode and follows a similar shape. However, they are two very distinct lights.

Some folks suggest this genre have off road potential. In the sense of a quick forest or tow path short cut, perhaps. However, the hybrid spot and floods beam is best for asphalt. Stay tuned to Seven Day Cyclist www.sevendaycyclist.com for a full and conclusive response. Elsewhere, at the other end, I’ve been warming to the Xeccon Mars 60.

It’s termed a smart light and you’d be forgiven for thinking it was 60 lumens. There’s truth in both statements but it’s a bit more complex. Smart refers to the “Braking” function.

Regardless, which of the five modes you’ve chosen, it detects motion. Slowing down defaults to the 60lumen, steady mode, which is very intense at close quarters. Outside of that, 40 lumens is tops and more than sufficient for open roads. 20, or erven 10 is more appropriate for town, especially given the braking default I’ve just mentioned.

Elsewhere, September/October are prime times for bike prep. Give frames and components a decent helping of high quality wax preserve, ditto shoes, saddles. There’s been sufficient precipitation, the odd storm too, giving me the opportunity to see just how effective the Crankalicious leather lacquer and crisp frame hybrid frame wax are.

Both are convenient, dare I say, nice to apply. Crisp is reckoned to last 4months between applications. That’s true of many formulas-perfect when bikes are being put into seasonal hibernation, or during less taxing riding conditions, so I’m looking forward to seeing just how it holds up. 

Metal frames also benefit from a moderate helping of internal, oil based preserve. Commercially available aerosols are convenient and for the most part, very effective. They are cheap to manufacture and recipes vary.

Mine, developed over the past twenty three years; is made from old/job lot candles, solvent and semi synthetic motor oil. A small quantity poured inside the seat tube, distributed evenly around the frame’s inner sanctum should be sufficient.

Adding more solvent will achieve a spray able consistency but since I also use it to preserve my mk1 KA’s chassis and underside, the brush-on blend goes further, creates less clean up and ultimately, suits my purposes best.

Bearing in mind, these can also seal moisture in (the last thing you want) they should only be applied while the days are relatively temperate and arid. DISCLAIMER Such “metal medicine” is made and used entirely at your own risk. I will not be held responsible for any accident/damage however caused. If in doubt, buy commercially available products and seek professional advice.

Carbon composites don’t corrode, or deteriorate in the same fashion but they are very effective conductors. Bottom bracket sleeves, derailleur hangers and other areas are typically aluminium alloy.

Aside from treating painted and lacquered surfaces to decent quality waxes, strip the headset, bottom bracket, derailleur and skewers. Treat these to a stout, high quality ceramic/polymer grease to prevent galvanic corrosion (seizure of different metals) and other unnecessary misery later on.  

Petrochemicals aren’t kind to rubberised seals, or suspension linkages either. I’ve found a drop of Green Oil slip https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-slip-eco-lubricant https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-eco-spray-lube, or their eco-spray lube, perfect for small bushings/similar components.  On that note, I’m off to prepare for a trade show and put some more lights through their paces.