Weathering Storms

 I continue to carefully work through and rationalise the spares bins, taking stock of what’s still relevant/required and what can be released. Much of this boils down to contact points. For example, I ride exclusively with recessed SPD/pattern and Time ATAC systems. No sense in clinging on to Keo patterns.  

Nothing wrong with them per se.  Rather, I prefer the convenience of being able to walk (rather than the undignified hobble) without chewing the composite cleat, or gouging holes in expensive linoleum. 

With that in mind, I’ve just taken delivery of these rather fetching Wellgo M)94B 9/16 SPD Shimano Cleat Compatible Sealed Bearing Pedals.  These are the silver versions, which should also keep their looks longer than a black, or similarly painted counterpart. Some painted finishes tire quicker than others. 

Powder-coated versions, including these XLC can prove very hardy, others can flake away, with repeated entry/exit. Much of this boils down to price I.e. quality of powder coating and process I.e. properly blasted bodies given a high-quality zinc-rich primer coat fare best. 

Saddles are another component that can require re-homing. 

Older/cheaper models can go, higher-end/genuinely compatible models, stay. Switching to the Pro Turnix has proven a wise decision. More supportive than the Stealth, 2g heavier than the otherwise very agreeable and cheaper BBB Echelon. However, the Turnix offers plenty of support, without any loss in pedaling efficiency.      

Flooding and similar life-changing destruction has been a theme in some parts of the UK. Here, though blustery, winds have ranged between 27 and 40 mph. The former proving passable, albeit still challenging riding conditions.  

Save for some very cold nights, there’s no hint of the snow, assured by the “red top” tabloid press for several months now. Spiked tyres have remained slumbering in storage.   

I have a love/hate relationship with waterproof socks. The truly impervious TPU lined versions are genuinely impervious-right to the cuff-line.  

However, they also tend to become unpleasantly clammy. Boiled in the bag feet, leading in some instances to athletes’ foot and similar infections. Fabrics which aren’t completely waterproof but highly water-resistant and fast-wicking are my preference. For these reasons, the Oxford Products Ox Sox https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-ox-socks  have proved extremely agreeable.  

They’re not cycling-specific, which isn’t necessarily a deal-breaker, it adds to their versatility in many respects. However, more traditional touring shoes and MTB booties are as snug as you’ll find compatible.  

The relentlessly wet conditions require more frequent maintenance. I’m still running the White Lightning Extreme Wet lube and I’m past the 300mile marker on a single helping, with little sign of it relenting. Hardly prodigious perhaps, 400+isn’t uncommon from a stodgy wet formula.  

Motor and chainsaw oils are surprisingly effective and extremely cheap. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/cheap-as-chips-chain-lubes provided of course, you’re very vigilant when it comes to cleanliness. i.e. wiping the side plates, rings, derailleur cages at least weekly. Otherwise, that sludgy grinding paste will consume chains and other drivetrain components at a rapid rate. Its reckoned 10spd chains should be retired by the time wear registers .6, 11 speed at .5.  

Chain checking tools are sensible investments (although wear can be accurately assessed using a very accurate ruler). Basic chain checkers can be had for £3, or less. More sophisticated digital fare carries a commensurate price tag but their improved accuracy may recoup monies longer-term i.e. not retiring chains just in time-not too early, or too late.  

Theoretically extending the longevity of more expensive components. During my rationalization, I uncovered this electroplated BBB model. One that I’d had since 2007 but that had been AWOL for a few years. It had fallen from the tool board and beneath the chest freezer.  

Arguably the simplest of this breed, it has a couple of unique features. See the two cutouts? One is designed to remove valve cores, the other is a 5,6 and 8mm box spanner. Not the most useful functions on a contemporary build perhaps but better than dead space.   

Anyhow, the chain function is incredibly simple to use. Place between a designated length of chain, if the teeth sink into the links-low enough that it sits horizontal, the chain is shot. My Univega’s Sram is showing moderate signs of wear but not pensionable just yet. A few hundred miles-three weeks at the current rate before I switch to an FSA I have in stock.  

Restraining Orders

I’ve continued to reorganise and ahem, rationalise the garage before sanctions were imposed. Most things have been simply relocated to easily accessible and clearly labeled storage boxes. However, an out-of-control heap of perished and part worn tyres, were consigned to the tip. Clear outs can be cathartic and I feel better for this reasoned and yet ruthless culling. I also found a few tubes, which had succumbed to the puncture fairy but still perfectly salvageable. Yes, there were a couple of fully loaded patch kits.

Two for the fixed, two for my Univega. The latter’s sealant fed Kenda thorn resistant tuber had also self-healed, having been fed a bit more air and rotated a few times. The science behind self-sealing tubes is pretty straightforward. The sealant remains dormant until the tube’s punctured, whereupon it’s forced the affected area, by escaping air and rotational forces.  

Holes up to 3mm diameter are pretty much their limit and you will be left with a very sticky mess, should a blowout strike. Famous last words, the Tannus Tyre Armour seems to be holding out and performing rather well. That said; our 32mm section was a little on the precise-side. This meant I had to switch to a slightly narrower, 700x28-32, rather than a 32-35. Technique is another consideration, when mounting and its crucial to avoid pinching.  

The easiest way, is to have one tyre bead aboard the rim (as you would, when fitting a tube). Install the Tannus Armour within the tyre, seat the tube, slightly inflated, into the armour and then mount the tye. Given the increased girth, this bit’s a little trickier but nothing a decent lever, such as my Cyclo Workshop model, or this more portable Crank Brothers   Speedier Tyre Lever won’t iron out.   

Sometimes some chemical assistance will help ease a stubborn bead home. I’ve found a quick, localised blast of Muc-Off Silicon Shine https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-silicone-shine-polish, or indeed, Juice Lubes Frame Juice Frame Polish very effective. Washing up liquid can also prove a useful, inexpensive lubricant, although  minimise exposure with plated, polished and painted surfaces.  

Staying with Workshop, I’ve been enjoying these Facom multi-tools.  

A bit big for bike mounted luggage perhaps and a little too short for some stubborn workshop applications. Nonetheless they’ve tackled most jobs pretty easily-including recessed brake/brifter mounts. The Univega’s Microshift Centos is on the right-hand side, hidden by the lever hood.  

More convenient that the fixed’s Cane Creek V brake levers, which are deeply recessed. Access requires a very willowy 5mm key and negotiating the inner brake wire https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/cane-creek-v-brake-drop-bar-levers . That said; there’s sufficient oomph for shifting arthritic quill stem and seat post binder bolts. The Torx version is particularly useful for vulnerable, or slightly chewed fastenerss- cleat bolts being cases in point.  

After a few hundred miles, I’ve performed another saddle swap. The Selle San Marco remains pride of place on my fixed gear winter/trainer. I was surprised to discover the covering is in fact, calf hide, not a micro matrix. I don’t object to genuine hides per se. However, I would’ve preferred cowhide, since the animal would’ve had a longer and (hopefully) happy life.  

I have in fact switched the Pro Stealth for the Pro Turnix, which had until very recently, had graced my fixed gear winter/trainer. Music to my derriere. Not that the Stealth was a poor choice, rather just that fraction too firm, for me.  Harmony restored!  

The weight penalty is proportionately quite steep but in real terms, only 71g and still a bit lighter than the Concor. I’d subverted a wet crotch, courtesy of the Carradice SQR luggage on my fixed but my Univega’s full-length guards make this a non-issue.   

Save fort strong winds, this corner of the southeast has been largely unaffected by Storm Ciara, which is something of a relief. Many communities have experienced serious flooding and disruption. Nonetheless, I’ve been particularly alert to potentially weak branches and similar hazards when navigating tree-lined lanes. Nonetheless, heavy rains mean there’s plenty of standing water.

Some folks want the convenience of clip-on guards. Steve rates this Zefal Swan Road Rear Mudguard https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-swan-road-rear-mudguard  He also popped over to Bicycles By Design to play with some e-bikes https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/ebike-day-with-bicycles-by-design 

Sore Points Fixed With Subtle Tweaks

I made the schoolboy error of whipping the Pro Stealth Saddle in situ, making cursory visual inspection and checked alignment with a straight edge (rather than a spirit level). Subsequently, I paid the price, 20 miles into our maiden voyage, my sit bones were screaming. 

However, being a seasoned tester of traditional leather saddles, I persevered. Fifteen miles into our second outing, my inner thigh was feeling decidedly raw. I concluded, mid ride that the saddle height was fractionally too low, with the Stealth. 

This, (coupled with the padding density) in turn was placing additional pressure, causing this discomfort.   Relieved to be home, time for a more detailed analysis. I produced a 5mm Allen key and raised the seat post by a few millimetres, then took a spirit level to things. Not far out but sufficient…Loosening the cradle bolt, tilting the saddle fractionally downwards, snugging the cradle bolt tight (while keeping a sharp eye on the level) cured this.

My Univega was sporting a fair amount of slimy, salty road filth and the Juice Lubes Ceramic Juice was looking a bit filmy. This prompted a quick cold-water rinse, followed by a sudsy bucket and drivetrain cleansing 

 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/juice-lubes-dirt-juice-chain-cleane

White Lightning Extreme Wet was the most obvious, default replacement. No curing time, plenty of staying prowess-should last through February. Delivering a few squirts of Juice Lubes JL69 Bike Maintenance Spray https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/juice-lubes-jl to cables and pivot points concluded said fettling episode…

Then I spotted some nasty looking sharps that had penetrated its rear Schwalbe Marathon Mondial Double Defence Tyres https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-marathon-mondial-tyres. Deflated the tyre, extracted the flints using nail tweezers, then filled the holes with superglue.

Oddly enough, some Tannus Tyre Liners had arrived for testing (although these were 700x32, so went to the Schwalbe Road Cruiser https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/scwalbe-road-cruiser-tyres Fortuitous too, since the Schwalbe had also succumbed to a flint induced flat.

Liner protectors work like another layer within the tyre, preventing thorns and similar sharps puncturing the tube. I recall Tuffy Tape from the late 80s. Some swore by it, others at it.

Those taking a more moderate (dare I say, rational) stance suggested they could work well but recommended checking their alignment periodically. This was to prevent them inducing precisely the flats they were intended to eliminate. 

These Tannus are less convenient to install than heavy duty butyl. They cite an additional 40 seconds. Maybe with assembly line familiarity but I took another 2/3 minutes first time round. Still, at 200g apiece, are considerably lighter than the Kenda Thornproof tubes (which have been my defaults during winter’s worst for nigh on a decade).

Retailing at £29.99, the Tannus are pretty much the going rate for liner technology. That said; money would be better spent on upgrading tyres, if you’re running unreliable budget rubber, or a higher end set are past their prime.  Tannus also reckon it’s possible to limp home on an otherwise flat tyre, without damaging the rim.

Taking this a stage further, this theoretically allows tyres to be run at really low pressures, say for additional grip on the trails, or a really icy road. Personally, in the latter context, I would’ve reached for the Schwalbe Marathon winter https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-winter-spiked-tyre, or comparable spiked tyre.

Back to saddles, I was still feeling a little raw, so switched exclusively to my fixed gear winter trainer and the Selle San Marco Concor SuperCorsa for a few days. Now, as I’ve said before, in some respects, it’s an old saddle but serves to illustrate that classic designs are still very relevant.

Yes, 320g might be a touch portly for some (those with bikes on Calorie controlled diets, in particular) but what’s a few grams if you can sit in comfort all day?  Arguably, black would’ve been a better fit with my working fixed’s colour scheme. I reckon the tan’s a nice contrast.

The Genetic D-Riser 4 Bars continue to impress me. For gravel/cyclo cross I’d stick with their D-Riser 16 siblings https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-d-riser-bars, which still perform very well on asphalt. 

However, I have been surprised to find the D-Riser 4 feel that bit sharper on relatively smooth roads-sweeping around S bend descents that kind of thing.

I haven’t noticed any real difference, when ascending and as with its sibling the 20degree rise is subtle but welcome, especially through congested traffic, or relaxing on a long day ride.   I'll do a few hundred miles more with these contact points, before reaching any firm conclusions.