Derriere Delight & Rapid Chain Consumption

 

Having switched saddles and riding conditions milder and wetter, I switched to Muffin and some fixed gear serenity before things flip flopped again. Reunited with the titanium railed Spa Aire, I was delighted with the comfort but also noted some slight slip with these Castelli Competizone Bib Tights Castelli Competizione Men’s Bib Tights | cycling-not-racing- the case with the Ergon it replaces.

With another snowy blast on the horizon, I switched Ursla from the CST Patrol CST Patrol Folding EPS Tyres | cycling-not-racing to Schwalbe’s Ice Spiker Pro Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro Tyres | cycling-not-racing. Wheels in situ, I then decided a chain check was opportune- .75 when I introduced my more basic, nickel-plated tool. Bin fodder either way.

I had two in stock, so no issues on that front. Simply brake, prune the new and click into place with the magic link. Now was also the opportunity to expel some gunge clinging to the jockey wheels and lighter grime adorning the rings. Something also prompted me to check Denise’s KMC- said nickel-plated gauge also slid straight to .75.

Again, an easy fix, and chance to strip some residual gunk from the jockey wheels, cage and rings.  Both chains had been fed the Muc Off C3 All Weather Chain Lube Muc-Off C3 All Weather Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing . This also serves to illustrate how persistent exposure to waterlogged roads, mucky lanes, trails and of course snow and salt rapidly consume drivetrains-even with disciplined cleaning and light lubrication. Denise’s chain was only replaced in November. I subscribe to the philosophy of buying less exotic chains, since they still return a reasonable mileage and are relatively kind on the wallet when replacement’s due. Same goes for cassettes.

Rings should be fine, so long as you’re not lax when it comes to replacing chains. However, there’s an argument for investing in stainless steel, rather than 6061 aluminium alloy rings. At least on a tourer, or other bikes that do big mileages year-round. Mercifully, the Deore FC M5100 fitted to Ursula and Denise are steel, which adds a few grams but theoretically repays with improved durability.

Again, Deore is often regarded as entry-level, but the specification and performance are still very impressive. Back in the 1990s, I had high regard for Shimano’s STX & RC components, good enough for racing, but affordable and economic to replace, should you bend something beyond repair in a crash.  They key with all these things is to keep repairs, replacements and upgrades practical. Unless a gift, or passed to you at an incredibly favourable rate, bolting high end CNC machined rings on lower to mid-range cranks makes no sense.      

All this also serves as solid argument for running a fixed, or single speed steed as a primary winter bike. One ideally with full length mudguards (fenders). That said, fixed and single speed drivetrains are low maintenance, decent sprockets and chains are key, since they’re under a fair bit of strain and that’s before you throw the witches brew of wet, salt, grit and similar nasties into the mix.

Without doubt, the best sprocket I’ve ever run was EAI Superstar- a beautifully machined, highly polished stainless-steel affair commanding £45. EAI also offer a less exotic steel stablemate for £25. One that arguably strikes the best balance of value and performance on a working, or training bike.

I’m also suitably impressed by the Andel Fixed Sprocket (1/8 17tooth) fitted to Muffin. I’m not a fan of electroplating per se. I appreciate it looks pretty but I don’t like the process and acids involved. Nonetheless, Muffin’s seems to be holding up very well against the elements and offers a winter, knee friendly ratio of 67.5.

Great for a smooth, struggle-free cadence, but without going into overdrive on the descents.  As for chains, I’ve had surprisingly good results from budget KMC, such as the Z510, their higher end stainless counterparts, not to mention, the Gusset S Link and thus far, this Izumi. Once upon a time, while riding conversions I ran 3/32 Sedis, but it’s been 1 1/8^th track fare all the way since I took advantage of fixed’s resurgence in 2005.    

 

 

Wind, Rain, Ice, Variable Gears & Seasonal Lows

 I returned from a ride and noted the fixed gear winter trainer’s chain tension was on the slack side. The Z1’s nickel-plated EPT coating was also showing through- the Zefal  Extra Wet Nano Ceramic ZEFAL EXTRA WET NANO CERAMIC CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) had been licked clean in places. An easy fix on both counts.  

Given the wet, mulchy conditions, the bike needed another thorough sudsy bucket wash and rinse. Same went for the brushes Finish Line Easy Pro Five Brush Set | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). I poured some neat bike wash into the bristles, worked this into a lather and rinsed with warm and cool water.  

Grot purged, chain tensioned and re-lubed, I decided New Year was time to switch to Ursula for a while. Aside from fancying some dirt, I needed to conclude some testing-specifically the Raveman XR 6000 Wireless Switch Controlled front light Ravemen XR6000 Front Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), and the Silca Secret Formula Chain lube. For some reason, the XR 6000 refused to power up.  

The battery was showing a 50% charge and when prodded, the remote switch flashed blue but nothing from the lamp. Perplexing, although didn’t stop pre-dawn play, since I had the K-Lite Bike Packer Pro V2 Front Light K LITE BIKEPACKER PRO V2 FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) .  

I tried to coax the Ravemen XR 6000 into life at various points during the 20-mile loop, but no joy. I’d not exposed the battery, or connectors to anything IPX6 shouldn’t shrug at. Could I have somehow locked the system so it wouldn’t engage...Concluded I was best served by giving the battery a full charge and trying again. (Spoiler alert, this solved the issue, and I was able to capture some beam shots).  

Ride concluded and decided it was time to top up the Silca Secret Formula Chain Lube. I was slightly perturbed by the brown. Then I remembered it was a waxy formula, so grit, mud and similar contaminant becomes embedded within the top layer, falling away before it can engage with the chain. Some of the local lanes had literally become trails and wet enough that my neighbour's dachshund would need a snorkel.   

All this standing water, though great for testing the capabilities and resilience of technical kit, did not bode well, since temperatures were predicted to tumble. This prompted a switch to the SP SV and XT wheelset, which were shod with the Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) but it held above freezing. At the other end of the rubber world, here’s my review of the Hutchinson Challenger Tyre https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/hutchinson-challenger-tyre 

Roads, including motorway exits, were flooded- the latter I discovered having left one and my little KA being hit by a wall of water. Further along this route, a stranded Mercedes sat slumped in the filthy water, its hazard lights pulsing eerily in the darkness. This was the theme for another ten miles, and I was relieved to pull up on the drive and let the engine run to drive out any floodwater, assisted of course by this Muc-Off Bike Protect. I also went this route post-ride the following morning with Ursula. Cables, cleat mechanisms, mechs etc all given a quick blast, before I reapplied the Silca Super Secret Formula Chain Lube.   

I also noted a paint chip on the seat tube cable guide, so treated that with a light helping of KRUST, adding a lick of high-build marine primer some four hours later. I’ll take the same route with the frame ends come spring. For now, I’m treating them to regular applications of Muc-Off HCB-1, which is designed for harsh environments and will theoretically seal the elements out and keep the grot at bay. Unlike more traditional formulas, it promises not to do anything nasty to electrical contacts, rubberised components etc.  

Cycology has been kind enough to send me their See Me Pink Handlebar bag and 8-day Handlebar tape. The latter is a compact model, which is a better fit for my bars, which have limited real estate when lights, switch gear and computers are taken into account. In common with the See Sense Handlebar Bag SEE SENSE HANDLEBAR BAG | cycling,-but-not-usually-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) I reviewed a while back, it’s possible to mount it, very securely just behind, rather than in front of the bars.  A plus if you’ve a lot going on upfront and/or are running a very stumpy stem.