Wind, Rain, Ice, Variable Gears & Seasonal Lows

 I returned from a ride and noted the fixed gear winter trainer’s chain tension was on the slack side. The Z1’s nickel-plated EPT coating was also showing through- the Zefal  Extra Wet Nano Ceramic ZEFAL EXTRA WET NANO CERAMIC CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) had been licked clean in places. An easy fix on both counts.  

Given the wet, mulchy conditions, the bike needed another thorough sudsy bucket wash and rinse. Same went for the brushes Finish Line Easy Pro Five Brush Set | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). I poured some neat bike wash into the bristles, worked this into a lather and rinsed with warm and cool water.  

Grot purged, chain tensioned and re-lubed, I decided New Year was time to switch to Ursula for a while. Aside from fancying some dirt, I needed to conclude some testing-specifically the Raveman XR 6000 Wireless Switch Controlled front light Ravemen XR6000 Front Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), and the Silca Secret Formula Chain lube. For some reason, the XR 6000 refused to power up.  

The battery was showing a 50% charge and when prodded, the remote switch flashed blue but nothing from the lamp. Perplexing, although didn’t stop pre-dawn play, since I had the K-Lite Bike Packer Pro V2 Front Light K LITE BIKEPACKER PRO V2 FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) .  

I tried to coax the Ravemen XR 6000 into life at various points during the 20-mile loop, but no joy. I’d not exposed the battery, or connectors to anything IPX6 shouldn’t shrug at. Could I have somehow locked the system so it wouldn’t engage...Concluded I was best served by giving the battery a full charge and trying again. (Spoiler alert, this solved the issue, and I was able to capture some beam shots).  

Ride concluded and decided it was time to top up the Silca Secret Formula Chain Lube. I was slightly perturbed by the brown. Then I remembered it was a waxy formula, so grit, mud and similar contaminant becomes embedded within the top layer, falling away before it can engage with the chain. Some of the local lanes had literally become trails and wet enough that my neighbour's dachshund would need a snorkel.   

All this standing water, though great for testing the capabilities and resilience of technical kit, did not bode well, since temperatures were predicted to tumble. This prompted a switch to the SP SV and XT wheelset, which were shod with the Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) but it held above freezing. At the other end of the rubber world, here’s my review of the Hutchinson Challenger Tyre https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/hutchinson-challenger-tyre 

Roads, including motorway exits, were flooded- the latter I discovered having left one and my little KA being hit by a wall of water. Further along this route, a stranded Mercedes sat slumped in the filthy water, its hazard lights pulsing eerily in the darkness. This was the theme for another ten miles, and I was relieved to pull up on the drive and let the engine run to drive out any floodwater, assisted of course by this Muc-Off Bike Protect. I also went this route post-ride the following morning with Ursula. Cables, cleat mechanisms, mechs etc all given a quick blast, before I reapplied the Silca Super Secret Formula Chain Lube.   

I also noted a paint chip on the seat tube cable guide, so treated that with a light helping of KRUST, adding a lick of high-build marine primer some four hours later. I’ll take the same route with the frame ends come spring. For now, I’m treating them to regular applications of Muc-Off HCB-1, which is designed for harsh environments and will theoretically seal the elements out and keep the grot at bay. Unlike more traditional formulas, it promises not to do anything nasty to electrical contacts, rubberised components etc.  

Cycology has been kind enough to send me their See Me Pink Handlebar bag and 8-day Handlebar tape. The latter is a compact model, which is a better fit for my bars, which have limited real estate when lights, switch gear and computers are taken into account. In common with the See Sense Handlebar Bag SEE SENSE HANDLEBAR BAG | cycling,-but-not-usually-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) I reviewed a while back, it’s possible to mount it, very securely just behind, rather than in front of the bars.  A plus if you’ve a lot going on upfront and/or are running a very stumpy stem.  

 

Wrong Turns & Bum Steers

 No, I’m not referring to more headset dramas. Thankfully, the fleet’s Woodman, FSA and Stronglight are all buttery smooth and without play... 

Looking back on things it had been one of those days and serves as a reminder of how tiredness can impair judgment and lead us down some very blind alleys. Cycling and motorcycling are powerful metaphors for wider life, whether its touring, racing, or just well, riding. 

 

Diagnostics rather than repair are often the involved process and if you’ve started from the wrong point, then everything else will be “off”. Rather like being lost, following that same road will often lead to frustration and wasted time, sometimes (and where possible) its best to pack up and resume another time.  

Ursula’s chain had been jumping when climbing in the small ring. Chain and cassette were in nigh on perfect health, so I assumed it might be the Tiagra mech gumming up, maybe a cable issue...Fast forward to that Saturday afternoon. I’d been treating some minor corrosion on the KA and Micra’s sills and some minor grot on the latter’s door skin.  

As the photo illustrates, the Micra’s was deeper than first believed, requiring two hours welding. Anyhow, I’d given the first coats of marine primer a few hours curing and was waiting to apply a final thin coat.  

I decided now was the time to investigate Ursula’s drivetrain glitch...Spoiler alert, the KMC chain was too long, causing it to kick up. Pruning it from 110 to 104 links the following afternoon cured the problem. However, this wasn’t obvious to me the previous evening. I started by cleaning the Tiagra mech and assessing springs, alignment etc.  

Next thing I knew, I’d replaced the inner cable and even switched mech... No joy (obviously) but I’d an idea that perhaps the Microshift bar con was in fact an mtb version i.e., the pull ratios being different and thus ultimately incompatible with the Tiagra. Nope, not the root issue.  

Weary and dejected, I put Ursula away and downed tools for the day. Following morning, while on another mission, the penny dropped- chain too long! Returned that afternoon, switched the mech and cable, then pruned the chain.... Huzzah, up and down snappily and in both directions. I dare say there’ll be the odd quick tweak in the formative rides to come, but relieved and crucially, quit while ahead.    

I’ve been putting this System EX Grease Gun through its paces- hubs, headset bearings, seat posts etc. I’m still fond of the Finish Line Grease Gun, which has served me very well for a decade or thereabouts, but the System EX is all metal and has an extension for really detailed, mess-free delivery.  

Perfect for fasteners and similar small parts. Made me wonder what had happened to my old-school Dualco Mini Grease Gun. I’m confident it's safely packed away and wasn’t liberated post-move. Park GG1 looks very similar, save for the finish. These have some definite charm, assuming you’re not wanting, dare I say needing to switch between different types.

For these reasons, I’d probably go for a fully synthetic blend of grease, such as the White Lightning Crystal High-Performance Clear Grease TESTED : WHITE LIGHTNING CRYSTAL GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) which can be applied to pretty much any component without fear of it doing something nasty to seals and delicate rubberised components.  

Generally, reliable, I’ve found the Dualco can “ingest” air, interrupting flow rate, so you’ll need to purge by slackening the top and inserting a screwdriver into the base and forcing upward until all the air is expelled. Not a big job but can take a few attempts, which can be frustrating if you’re mid-job.  

As for the System EX and Finish Line designs, these also need to be packed tightly. Fill the gun by hand and then, with chosen grease threaded tight, pump the tube until grease flows easily while depressing the trigger.    

From there, it's pretty much squeeze and go.  However, if you’re having issues, unscrew the gun, squeeze some grease into the chamber and then pump the tube, like a piping bag, or toothpaste until the grease rises to the top of the tube. Repeat as necessary until the tube’s spent. 

Elsewhere, The Hutchinson Challenger have arrived. Ours are the tubed, tan wall 28mmm versions reckoned good for 5,000kms and allegedly a more supple compound than typically found on other “endurance” models. It will be interesting to see how they compare with the Maxxis Re Fuse TR MAXXIS REFUSE TR FOLDING TYRE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which are still serving faithfully on the fixed gear winter/trainer. Ending on a tyre-related note, here’s my review of the Topeak Smart Gauge DX2 Topeak Smart Guage D2X | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)