Bubbling Beneath The Surface...

The past ten days have been a roller-coaster ride of highs n’ lows; my illustrator, Michael J Murphy has brought the main characters in my series of children’s stories alive as Jpegs. 

Given digital media dominates and portable devices have become the viewing tools of choice; we’re considering releasing a narrated version for younger children.

In keeping with our everyday focus at Seven Day Cyclist (www.sevendaycyclist.com    https://www.facebook.com/Sevendaycyclistmagazine/?ref=aymt_homepage_panel ), we’re awaiting delivery of an interesting trailer or two.

Some of the team are leaving their wives behind and heading off for a quick gander at the Czech Republic...

My strange and some would say; irrational love of crumbling Soviet military/industrial sites, coupled with an uncanny ability to get arrested, detained and interrogated by the authorities means I’ll be testing kit on domestic soil through June…

A recent dry spell enabled me to slather some of my home brewed waxy preserve over the KA’s chassis and underside. 

Build quality seems an improvement over its predecessors, suggesting there’s some truth in the long held belief that last-of-the line cars were the ones to go for, since all the faults had been ironed out. That said; rust behind the filler cap remains as problematic as ever.

Moisture gets trapped between the rubberised seal and bodywork. A distinct lack of galvanising means the elements nibble away unsupervised until the bubbling becomes apparent. Thankfully, remedial action wasn’t too intensive. 

Having removed any flaking paint, I sanded the affected area; then added two light coats of Krust; a water-based neutralising agent before turning my attentions to my two-wheeled fleet while it cured.

Some minor play had crept back into the Holdsworth’s headset bearings, swiftly cured by a quick bit of spacer shuffling and introducing a 2mm “carbon” unit beneath the stem cap. 

Forty miles hence, suggests this unexpected flash of inspiration has solved the problem. 

WD40 water displacer is one of those truly iconic products; look in any household cupboard, garage, bike shop and chances are, you’ll find the blue aerosol (or 5 litre solution) sitting on a shelf/workbench.It’s not particularly kind to seals and other rubberised parts but inhibits corrosion, prevents squeaks, lubricates cables, pivot points, mechanisms etc. 

GT85 is another justly popular, Teflon fortified maintenance spray, which keeps these areas slicker for longer. It’s also owned by WD40 and they’ve also launched a bike specific GT85 range including bike wash, dry lube, degreaser and silicone polish.

While my preference (and that of many bicycle/motorcycle dealerships) errs towards high quality beeswax furniture polishes; dirt cheap, they achieve high quality, lasting sheens on painted, plated and polished surfaces with minimal effort. Silicone products also nourish plastics and rubberised components-suspension elastomers, seals being obvious candidates.

Traditionally, silicone based polishes-bike specific, or otherwise have tended to quickly cultivate grimy patinas. Credit where it’s due, while this formula still seduces some filmy grime, it is easily dismissed (almost as quickly as these U-locks) given a quick, soft-cloth onceover, though the lion’s share of protectant remains. Looking forward to putting the rest of their range through its paces...

John Moss is another perpetual fettler, perhaps unsurprising given his engineering career. In common with coach-builders and other engineering grade trades I’ve encountered in the past, he’s been trained to discover weaknesses and improve designs accordingly. His Mango being a prime example; Alfine 11sped hub, much bigger ring instated, gearing now permits 35mph at modest cadences and theoretically in excess of 80mph on a long descent!

Richard Ballantine once suggested that having motorcycle experience can be very beneficial when pushing recumbents hard-I was somewhat smitten with his “Speedy” during this period and would certainly indulge today...Along with some kind of 850cc trike project if other priorities and space permitted.

John affirmed that his ten years spent riding large capacity motorcycles develops an intuitive understanding of exactly when to push and of course, to back off.  He’s also learning to work with glass fibre and appears to have commandeered the couple’s trailer for solo shopping runs and other errands. The hitch is presently undergoing refinement so it tracks more accurately behind the Mango...   

Back to the KA

Next came three light coats of red oxide primer. Ideally a colour coat would’ve been applied but in my experience, these will keep the region solid and grot free. Before reinstating the filler cap assembly, introduce some decent quality, rubber friendly grease to the seal. It won’t cure the problem but greatly inhibits further bouts of grot and therefore, more intensive exorcism.

If you’ve bought a late model MK1 with no signs of corrosion in this region, I’d recommend a similar strip-out before filler and more serious intervention’s needed...

Salvage

After several attempts with Southern scrappies, I managed to persuade a Midlands based vehicle dismantler to let me photograph his yard in action. Arriving with steel toes, hi-viz jacket and assurances I would take only my images met with surprisingly little resistance.

Fiats, Alfa Romeo, Vauxhall and even the odd X type Jaguar sat in neat piles, their empty bodies squashed like discarded soft drinks cans. Teenage lads peered inside elderly Nissan Micras (not the most obvious Yoof wagons!); while I pondered the lives of three mk1 Ka stacked nearby and pressed the shutter at desired intervals.

Rediscovery of my Cyclo tyre removal and fitting tool’s replacement head has spelt an end to tyre torment and prompted the resurrection of these26x2.1 Kenda Small block eight for some off the beaten track fun with the Geonaute.

As their name suggests, the small block 8 are a closely spaced knobbly designed for optimal speed and control across hard surfaces with operating range between 30 and 80psi. They’ll quickly clog and become slicks in gloopy mud but this was academic given full-length mudguards preclude anything trickier than dry woodland trails.

Said tubby tourer’s drivetrain has also developed a phantom squeak. Crank arms are tight, chain properly dressed (in Muc-Off Hydrodynamic lube, which has evolved into a seemingly hygienic wet potion these past 120 mixed terrain miles). Definitely not those Time ATAC pedals but rotating the cranks suggests the fit n’ forget UN55 bottom bracket might be culpable.

Not obvious sources of grief, since these (and their UN52/54 predecessors) enjoy legendary reliability-10,000 miles or more in some cases). Faulty seals/bearings are possible, albeit unlikely since I avoid jet washing like the plague. Will monitor for now and may even plump for an FSA or Stronglight next time round.  

Things they say; happen for a reason and while wrestling with the anaconda that is writer’s block, I sought solace in my austere, though practical concrete plot known affectionately as the Soviet block and began testing the degreasant claims of some bike wash formulas. Experience leads me to conclude that concentrates harness best-of both worlds performance, though require careful alchemy.

Pre-mixed blends are generally bang on for speedy cleaning of non/organic stuff thrown up from the roads and trails but their neutrality to all frame materials and finishes means they can’t cut through the sort of congealed claggy grot harboured by winter/fixed/cross and mountain bikes fed tenacious ceramic or even, old school wet lubes.

Common sense dictates starting with the bike’s transmission; otherwise you’ll just coat the rear triangle in mucky spatter and smear it over the frame. Therefore, I decided to whip out the Ilpompino’s rear wheel for minimal faff. Good thing I did –closer inspection of the 32mm Kenda Kwicker Bitumen revealed the iron cap casing was riddled with flints that could induce puncture of epic, tube-binning proportions!  

Murphy’s Law reasons this would strike several miles from home on a wet and windy night. The casing is reparable and I will fashion two boots from offcuts of scrap tyre at a more convenient moment.Generally speaking, 32mm is the limit with full length mudguards but being a slick, a 35mm Vittoria Voyager Hyper fits without touching anything-just, we are talking tighter than a hipster’s trousers.

Some WD40 drivetrain degreaser had arrived during the week and having achieved predictably lacklustre results using two generic bike washes; I shook, aimed and fired in two short blasts. Several months’ congealed gunk ran like mascara from the stainless steel track sprockets. Breathtakingly quick, though cautions suggest minimising contact with seals and similar rubberised/plastics.

Then of course, after several years’ faithful service, the pressure gauge on my Revolution floor pump is singing its swan-song and this rather likeable Axiom multi-tool literally blew its guts while slumbering in my rack bag. Again, I’ll attempt reconstructive surgery shortly but thankfully, Axiom offers original purchasers a lifetime warrantee against manufacturing defect.

Integral gauges tend to be the Achilles’ heel of budget track pumps, which generally soldier on for several years before heading up to that great bike shop in the sky. Standalone gauges are more reliable in any case.

Spring may have brought longer evenings but the advent of some much needed temping means tweaking one’s ride schedule. Time to resurrect the big guns for spirited back road blasting methinks…