Star Fangled Shenanigans & Pre Winter Prep

For one reason, or another, I’ve been considering my Holdsworth’s Saturn Headset. A bulletproof design and so glad I chose it. However, I’m not convinced the expander wedge is the best marriage with a metal steerer. A Gusset Headlock system is a non-starter, given I’m running a Miche dual-pivot stopper up front, so enter the humble Star Fangled Nut...  

A quick wander round the online auction sites unearthed a one-inch example for a couple of quid. I acquired a Park SFN setting tool at a very competitive price. Even used infrequently, more convenient than a trip to a local, respected bike mechanic-since the urge to get these jobs done, often strikes when the shop’s shut.  

The right tool will always recoup its investment by not knackering the host component(s). That said; if you don’t know what you are doing, go see an experienced, friendly bike shop/mechanic who does. Saves a lot of time and money. Talking of which, these days I tend to be far more robust in my accounting/budgeting when it comes to builds/modifications.  

Not just cycling projects either. Calculate the exact cost and benefits of things and then go ahead, if its cost-effective and to some extent future-proof. However, staying with cycling...Buying the best components for that job doesn’t mean investing in a top-flight groupset for a winter/commuter but rather, the right components and specification for the role required.  

When it comes to working/winter bikes, they need to be reliable, yet still engaging to ride. Tyres, wheels, bearings all get a hard time. Good quality (full length, where possible) mudguards (fenders) make a huge difference to rider comfort and protects the machine from nasty, wet, salty stuff.  

Headsets, seatposts and bottom brackets will thank you. Rule of thumb, worth stripping headsets, hubs and contact points and packing them with fresh grease. Adding a boot made from Winter/working bikes tend to get less maintenance, so take this opportunity to replace cables. Check brake pads, chains and cassettes. Replace if looking jaded and finish with some fresh bar tape.   

There’s an argument for cheaper consumables, since they will need replacing more frequently during winter. Chains and cassettes are the most obvious candidates but if you’re going to replace things seasonally, same could apply to bar tapes. The BBB BHT14 Flexribbon is a good, wallet-friendly option in my experience https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/bbb-bht-14-flexribbon-gel-bar-tape  

Long mudflaps amplify the protection (and will protect other riders from spray. Not that we should be riding in groups, given the present climate (which the UK government seems bewilderingly incapable of addressing in a coherent, informed manner).  

My preference is for high-quality chrome plastics. Wood are also rather nice options and hammered aluminium look very pretty, but the latter’s weight and slight rattle have always been a deterrent for me, personally.  My Univega’s SKS Bluemells Shiny Mudguards https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/sks-blumels-shiny-mudguards  are still in seriously rude health almost a year down the line.  

The RAW mudflaps https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/raw-prismatic  also continue to deliver, in every respect and are available in a wealth of different designs and colourways. I’ve put another 450 miles on the Continental Contact Speed Reflex tyres https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/continental-contact-speed-reflex-ty , which are showing minor signs of wear but still generally reliable, while providing a magic carpet ride. 

Those running tubes, looking for puncture preventative sealant product may be interested in Muc-Off Inner Tube Sealant https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-inner-tube-sealant  Those wanting a bomb-proof mid-section 700c may find Schwalbe Marathon Tour a good bet. In addition to 700c, they’re also available in 26x2.0 and 26x1.75  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-marathon-plus-tour-tyres   

Not surprised to discover the Tru Tension All Conditions lube on its first application since replacing the KMC chain. Conditions (save for some rainy, misty mornings) have been very dry-statistics suggest it’s the UK’s warmest September on record.  

Unlike traditional wax formulas, it doesn’t require hours to cure and doesn’t melt in the heat, so remains dry to touch, minimising transfer to hands and clothing-especially if you’ve needed to tackle a puncture. A quick dab also keeps shifters, cables etc happy, although I still prefer maintenance sprays on these, primarily since the Tru Tension is a bit pricey for generic lubing, in my opinion.   

No sooner had I typed this, the temperature has plummeted to 7 degrees and I’m now donning middleweight bib tights, middleweight, 2.5-layer training jackets, full-lerngth gloves and waterproof socks! Sticking with these FLR Rexston, which continue to impress me as all-rounders https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/flr-rexston-active-touring-trail-sh  

 

Braking for Cake, Chapattis & Cold Weather Kit

Having celebrated my birthday, complete with homemade cake and Chapattis the customary week later, a fresh box of winter kit arrived, including these lobster mitts from a well-known discount supermarket chain. Supposedly wind and waterproof, sheer purchase power means that prices are falling while performance and spec continue to rise.

Vaguely reminiscent of mittens that some of us were packed off to primary school with, warmth is their main attraction. Dexterity is better than I’d initially predicted too. Thumb and two fingers are nimble enough for gripping bars, changing gear, grabbing bottles and even drinking coffee.

Communication with touch screen tech is something we take for granted; thankfully the fore-finger makes accurate contact. Traditionally, this design has necessitated removal, say when fixing a flat, or rummaging in pockets for keys. The last thing you want when it’s minus five and you’re ten miles from home.

I’ve been able to remove wheels, wield a tyre lever or multi-tool with surprising finesse, although thankfully, the former scenario hasn’t been to frequent. (leaving my blue/grey fixer on the work stand and at a sensible height seems to have deterred feline attack too). Another chain has sent their top-flight sub £20 set, which look very promising.

As with other garments, especially those made from polyester/polyamide blends; there is a trade-off between weatherproofing and breathability. Personally something highly weather resistant and fast wicking over something “totally impervious” that turns uncomfortably clammy over relatively short periods-even when air temperatures struggle into single figures. 

Ensure cuffs are long enough to form an overlapping seal with training jackets and jerseys. An impervious glove is not much use if there’s a gap for wind, rain or snow to get channelled inside. For this reason, gender specific versions are best. A surprising number of female riders I’ve spoken with in casual conversation suggest they get along just fine with men’s kit.

Gender specific designs are arguably best; so long as these are genuinely anatomically designed, rather than smaller versions of the standard pattern. By men’s standards, my wrists are relatively thin and fingers proportionally longer. These days, I can usually compromise a decent fit with most brands’ large size.

Linings shouldn’t be overlooked either. Check these are tethered at the fingers. This doesn’t tend to prove problematic until wash day. Those that aren’t tend to flop out in a big, soggy clump. Persuading them back into individual fingers can prove frustrating.

Continuing the cold theme, local authorities have been out gritting some of the minor roads recently, pelting Univega and I with those tiny, corrosive particles. To date, the weather has been sufficiently dry enough for green oil’s dry chain lube, which is clean and light; though I will probably strip this in favour of its wet counterpart; or something in between as the roads get carpeted in a slimy cocktail.

Perfect conditions for assessing Pro Green MX’s Cycle Aftershine101’s performance; to date, it hasn’t attracted that familiar grimy patina, which I associate with silicone infused polishes/protectant. 

I’m curious to see how the protective barrier stands up to salt and similar corrosive spatter consistent with regular winter riding over the following weeks. Obviously, these are no substitutes for owner involvement. Ideally bikes should be rinsed off with cold water following each salty, slushy ride-it only takes a few minutes.

Storing bikes in cold garages or outbuildings also helps slow the caustic chemical reaction. I tend to wash my cross and other dirt derived builds straight afterward in any case, but if you’re about to head out for a cold, icy ride, leaving your machine(s) outside for fifteen minutes allows them to acclimatise and means sleet, snow, slush and similar contaminants find it harder to stick...

Shoes and clothing also take a beating, so remember to rinse them off and air dry at room temperature, away from radiators and other sources of heat. So long as the comfort is right, budget tights and winter weight jerseys are among my staples for everyday rides/training around the two hour mark.  Right, time I was getting some more miles in and forming opinions. Look out for a winter clothing overview in Seven Day Cyclist www.sevendaycyclist.com