Star Fangled Shenanigans & Pre Winter Prep

For one reason, or another, I’ve been considering my Holdsworth’s Saturn Headset. A bulletproof design and so glad I chose it. However, I’m not convinced the expander wedge is the best marriage with a metal steerer. A Gusset Headlock system is a non-starter, given I’m running a Miche dual-pivot stopper up front, so enter the humble Star Fangled Nut...  

A quick wander round the online auction sites unearthed a one-inch example for a couple of quid. I acquired a Park SFN setting tool at a very competitive price. Even used infrequently, more convenient than a trip to a local, respected bike mechanic-since the urge to get these jobs done, often strikes when the shop’s shut.  

The right tool will always recoup its investment by not knackering the host component(s). That said; if you don’t know what you are doing, go see an experienced, friendly bike shop/mechanic who does. Saves a lot of time and money. Talking of which, these days I tend to be far more robust in my accounting/budgeting when it comes to builds/modifications.  

Not just cycling projects either. Calculate the exact cost and benefits of things and then go ahead, if its cost-effective and to some extent future-proof. However, staying with cycling...Buying the best components for that job doesn’t mean investing in a top-flight groupset for a winter/commuter but rather, the right components and specification for the role required.  

When it comes to working/winter bikes, they need to be reliable, yet still engaging to ride. Tyres, wheels, bearings all get a hard time. Good quality (full length, where possible) mudguards (fenders) make a huge difference to rider comfort and protects the machine from nasty, wet, salty stuff.  

Headsets, seatposts and bottom brackets will thank you. Rule of thumb, worth stripping headsets, hubs and contact points and packing them with fresh grease. Adding a boot made from Winter/working bikes tend to get less maintenance, so take this opportunity to replace cables. Check brake pads, chains and cassettes. Replace if looking jaded and finish with some fresh bar tape.   

There’s an argument for cheaper consumables, since they will need replacing more frequently during winter. Chains and cassettes are the most obvious candidates but if you’re going to replace things seasonally, same could apply to bar tapes. The BBB BHT14 Flexribbon is a good, wallet-friendly option in my experience https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/bbb-bht-14-flexribbon-gel-bar-tape  

Long mudflaps amplify the protection (and will protect other riders from spray. Not that we should be riding in groups, given the present climate (which the UK government seems bewilderingly incapable of addressing in a coherent, informed manner).  

My preference is for high-quality chrome plastics. Wood are also rather nice options and hammered aluminium look very pretty, but the latter’s weight and slight rattle have always been a deterrent for me, personally.  My Univega’s SKS Bluemells Shiny Mudguards https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/sks-blumels-shiny-mudguards  are still in seriously rude health almost a year down the line.  

The RAW mudflaps https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/raw-prismatic  also continue to deliver, in every respect and are available in a wealth of different designs and colourways. I’ve put another 450 miles on the Continental Contact Speed Reflex tyres https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/continental-contact-speed-reflex-ty , which are showing minor signs of wear but still generally reliable, while providing a magic carpet ride. 

Those running tubes, looking for puncture preventative sealant product may be interested in Muc-Off Inner Tube Sealant https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-inner-tube-sealant  Those wanting a bomb-proof mid-section 700c may find Schwalbe Marathon Tour a good bet. In addition to 700c, they’re also available in 26x2.0 and 26x1.75  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-marathon-plus-tour-tyres   

Not surprised to discover the Tru Tension All Conditions lube on its first application since replacing the KMC chain. Conditions (save for some rainy, misty mornings) have been very dry-statistics suggest it’s the UK’s warmest September on record.  

Unlike traditional wax formulas, it doesn’t require hours to cure and doesn’t melt in the heat, so remains dry to touch, minimising transfer to hands and clothing-especially if you’ve needed to tackle a puncture. A quick dab also keeps shifters, cables etc happy, although I still prefer maintenance sprays on these, primarily since the Tru Tension is a bit pricey for generic lubing, in my opinion.   

No sooner had I typed this, the temperature has plummeted to 7 degrees and I’m now donning middleweight bib tights, middleweight, 2.5-layer training jackets, full-lerngth gloves and waterproof socks! Sticking with these FLR Rexston, which continue to impress me as all-rounders https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/flr-rexston-active-touring-trail-sh  

 

Lateral Thinking & A Saunter Through The Spares Bin

Bank holidays are a great opportunity to relax, reflect and therefore be more productive as a consequence. That said; self-employment in any capacity/context requires long hours, forward planning and oodles of self- motivation- I’ve seldom seen bed before 1am these past few months. Presently I’m working on my collaboration and specifically cover designs, which is a different but extremely rewarding challenge with intense flashes of inspiration.

Further investigation revealed the Ilpompino’s GXP cranks and cups had become sitting tenants, though three timely blasts of penetrant spray and gentle persuasion from this ACOR wrench accelerated a tidy eviction.

Obviously closed cup pro grade designs hold the winning cards when it comes to absolute precision, though open type enable loosening of the non-drive side, facilitating release of reticent two-piece Truvativ without recourse to more forceful techniques.

Much to my surprise, several salt strewn winters had infiltrated the chain-ring bolts, leaving their threads unexpectedly brittle. Hence I’ve introduced an understated but worthy sealed square taper bottom bracket and low mileage Stronglight 55 crankset for the short to medium term until such time the latter’s non-detachable ring becomes bin fodder, or I acquire something more glamorous.

110mm long axles might sound another curious choice for fixed gear builds but the chain line’s bang-on, those extra few millimetres breathing space prevents arms fouling cadence sensors and similar electrical gizmos.

Dropping a couple of teeth has lowered the gearing slightly (from 81 to 77.6 inches), lessening joint strain on more intense climbs and improving acceleration without hampering cruising tempo or inducing quasi comedic spin-out during long descents.

Such moments had me thinking about chain life. Derailleur set ups ascend the stairway to heaven between 800 and 1100 miles depending on rider sensitivity, standards of maintenance, lube and riding conditions but things seem considerably less prescriptive with single speeds. Obviously the former variables, not to mention chainline are significant players.

However, theoretically at least (given the additional loading associated with braking, track standing and explosive acceleration) one would reasonably expect this to be level pegging with their variable cousins.

I’ve had a brown 3/32 Sedis expire somewhat fatally nigh on 25 years ago while hurtling along at 42mph, inducing unwelcome mirth and interesting rider antics. Aside from last year’s infamous crush injury, there’s never been a spiteful moment or sense of impending expiry using 1/8^th track fare. 

The Ilpompino's  KMC is starting to shed its purple finish in places and I keep a generous length of links lest disaster strike miles from home but we’re well into three thousand miles. My preference is for half-links since they allow more precise pruning, especially on conversions where tensioning can prove tricky (vertical dropouts being a case in point) and some whisper 10,000 miles plus is readily attainable.

Galvanised coatings according to others are show-stopping must-haves, particularly but while taint resistance is pretty good, those I’ve used have lacked finesse unless fed a wet lube diet and eventually the zinc layer flakes away, leaving links exposed and therefore equally vulnerable to Joe n’ Joanna rot. Perhaps Inox is the answer to these particular prayers…