Forks & Functionality

I'm someone who keeps "doing" (as distinct from "to-do") lists. These are organic, and used to structure, and critically analyse how effectively I'm using time, and other resources. "To do lists are full of good intentions, but few results. Some might even describe them as "where good ideas go to die".

That established, instatiing the Univega's original (and recently refurbed) forks were on Saturday's agenda.

Organisation i.e. laying out tools, parts etc are all part of productivity. I'd suspected the long serving Tortec guards' stays were close to pensionable, so retrieved an SKS set, just in case. 

Next came the crown race removal and setting tools, grease, Allen keys, two sets of cable cutters (Premium for cables, cheap n' cheerfuls for cable ties, and similar donkey work).  

Going off piste, I decided to switch to these Genetic CX Cantilevers https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-cx-cantilever-brakes . I'm very fond of the IRD CAFAM 2 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/ird-cafam-2-cantilever-brakes but fancied a change, and besides, the Genetic are much easier to set up. 

I love a really firm, positive action, so set the spring tension to maximum, greased the "new" forks canti posts with Park PPL1 Poly lube and popped them aboard, before turning my attentions to disassembling the Univega's existing front end. Being a daily driver, I was pleasantly surprised by how easily everything released.  

Full length mudguards (fenders) keep a remarkable amount of corrosive filth, from rider and machine, extending servicing times and ultimately, component life. I was pleasantly surprised by how much, effective Muc-Off Bio Grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-bio-grease-long-term-test was still in evidence. Old "School chair" trials fork out. I gave the Aheadset's bottom race cursory inspection, before delivering a fresh helping, of the jam-ike grease.  

Be rude (and silly) not to.  I replace headsets/ forks maybe once yearly, so find this  wallet friendly Ice Toolz crown race remover perfectly adequate. a few even taps later, I'd extracted the crown race and fitted it to the "new" forks, using my  Cyclo setting tool. 

Scrap "Gas pipe" down tubes make excellent, zero-cost alternatives, although ensure these have been cut cleanly, and accurately...

From this point, everything came back together, sans drama. Wheel reinstated, brakes setup, mudguard hardware greased and snugged tight, it was simply a case of setting bearing tension, trimming cables and naturally, treating the fork to some  Velo 21 Ultimate paintwork protection https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/velo-21 .  

I also took this opportunity to blast some corrosion inhibiting products inside the breathe holes, before hanging the bike up. This encourages it to travel through, and evenly coat the hosts. In a pinch, anything  (petrochemical) oily will do. A teaspoon, or two of 10w/40 motor oil inside a frame, or delivered into the fork blades, via syringe will certainly help. 

I chose to use up an almost exhausted aerosol, of waxy chain lube. Given the temperate weather, it should melt nicely and distribute evenly within their inner sanctum.  Talking of which, Steve's been putting some Boeshield T-9 Bicycle Lube & Protectant through its paces 

https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/boeshield-t-9  

Last but not least, for this "sitting"; dynamo cable and computer sensors were tethered, to their respective blades. Weight might be a lesser consideration on a working bike and ultimately, I didn't weigh both forks. However, anecdotally, the  originals are noticeably lighter (gun to my head, probably 300g), which for me, is another bonus.

Knew there was a reason I squirreled them away...

Continuing the working bike theme, co-editor Steve Dyster has been putting Bristol Bicycles Touring Bike through its paces and seems pleasantly surprised by its blend of fun and practicality. 

https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/bristol-bikes-touring 

Elsewhere, I've commenced testing Muc Off Dry Lube, which has a hue and odour, reminiscent of banana ice cream. It also has a recommended curing time of 4 hours, hence one I'd be inclined to re/apply the evening before riding. Once cured, it seems closer to a "diet" wax formula. 

A formative forty mile blast suggests friction's lower than a snake's testicles but I'll reserve any kind of proper judgement, for another 250, or so. Be interesting to see how it compares with the quick curing Zefal Pro Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-pro-dry-lube,  

CAFAM Redemption & Frankenpute

Well, the CR50 arrived bang on cue but being holiday season, I zoned in and played with, the IRD CAFAM2 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/ird-cafam-2-cantilever-brakes . 

Cantilever posts were sanded intensely, yet judiciously, using a fine grade of sand-paper. Next, a generous slither of Park PPL2 grease.

The cable and anchor bolts were both looking a little scabby too. So, new Jagwire Pro Road cable https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/jagwire-pro-road-brake-kit  and a Genetic straddle wire.

Fresh consumables instated, it was a question of painstakingly adjusting the spring and straddle wire tension, toeing pads in etc. Light and temperature dipping fast, I’d got modulation, power and feel perfect.

Serendipity was again, my friend. Ditto my elderly feline, who required his food bowl replenishing. Cable stretch isn’t an issue with better quality inner wires, so I wasn’t surprised to discover all was peachy the next morning. Fifteen miles of climbs and descents reaffirmed this.

It also proved an ideal opportunity for a saddle swap, and to rack up some miles with the chainsaw oil. 40 miles spent traversing wet, greasy backroads and the side-plates have cultivated a slightly grimy beard, However, in keeping with my fixed gear’s galvanised model “fling” has been minimal. The cassette also looks a good bit cleaner, than it did, when the chain was running 5w/40 motor oil.

Now, Frankenpute…

That corridor between Christmas and New Year is ripe for experimentation and bodge box rummaging. While doing some general housekeeping, I found four scrap computers. One with a dead head unit, one with a broken bar mount bracket and the other a defunct sensor.

I then decided to challenge myself. Build one good unit, from the three scrappers. Finding which combination would play nicely, took a while. However, with fresh CR cells and a spare magnet, this 20function, Revolution head proved compatible, with the other, cannibalised parts.

A big rubbery shim and cable ties ensured secure tenure, to my fixed’s Soma Condor bars https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma  

Admittedly, black would win aesthetically but white are at least, uniform. I’m unsure whether it’s the shutter precision hubs’ strong magnets. However, other wireless systems, including this Knog NERD, gave erratic, or zero readings, even with the usual remedies (i.e. fresh batteries and Vaseline on the contacts). Given this track record, I wasn’t surprised to discover these intermittent faults teasing me, on our first, misty morning test run.

Sure, its cost me in terms of time. I wouldn’t be doing these things during billing hours but being holiday season. I found the process relaxing, and end results very satisfying. In common with the CAFAM, sometimes it’s the process of really getting to grips with, and mastering something. I am also looking for a replacement sensor, for this relatively elderly (2009/10), yet extremely solid Blackburn Atom 4.0.

In case you hadn’t noticed, I have a fiercely strong bond with my machines. My working bikes. Much loved but designed to be ridden, whatever the weather. Hence why Jeff Rutland’s Goldhawk Roadax resonated so deeply with me https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/goldhawk-bicycles-purposeful-passio . In anticipation of the test bike’s arrival, I’ve dusted down my Bob Yak homage…

Aside from its hauling capacity, the mighty single wheel trailer is a means of testing a test bike’s laden handling characteristics. I am of course, referring to touring, commuting, cyclo cross derivatives, not race bikes. Laden with 20 kilos, (sometimes more) I hunt down some sweeping descents, and aim for 30mph, plus.  

The Roadax is a sportier build than, the Kinesis Tripster Ace https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/kinesis-tripster-ace  . The Kinesis is more of a cruiser, thanks to the more relaxed positioning but will do tagalong and trailer tugging duties very competently. The Roadax should be master of most trades. I’m looking forward to finding out.  

In the meantime, can’t start 2019 with a filthy fleet, or an impure kettle…

Cantilevers in the mist

The wintry weather gave way to the misty, mild and occasionally blustery stuff, typical of these shores around Christmas. Given the recent postal pilfering, I was relieved to return from a wet and greasy ride to discover a box of contraband had been taken in by a neighbour.

Unfortunately, a series of diplomatic incidents instigated by my elderly and very malevolent feline hastened their retrieval. This package came from Interloc Racing Design (IRD) http://www.interlocracing.com/

These are their CAFAM II cantilevers, which I had earmarked for the Univega. A classic wide arm design, sometimes described as MAFAC pattern. Their beautifully polished, CNC machined arms offer vastly superior mechanical advantage compared with modern, low profile types.

Look a little closer and you’ll notice they’re actually a marriage of retro and contemporary. Yes, there’s the old school cable anchor (which tightens via 10mm nut) less convenient, dare I say sleek, than modern Allen key patterns but effective nonetheless.

Yokozuna Cartridge Brake Shoes (Scott-Mathauser Gen-X salmon compound) are another force to be reckoned with and a doddle to setup.

That said; getting modulation and feel bang on proved trickier than I was expecting. Part of this was down to my brain engaging “M system default” but the combination of moustache bars and shorter reach Microshift brifters can also present minor challenges. If adjustment isn’t exacting, the brake lever will, more or less, touch the bars when engaged with any conviction.

On the subject of brake levers, ten years ago, I ran a similar configuration with Dia Compe V brake specific levers. Purely to see, just how dangerous, or otherwise the combination was.

Firstly, I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS PRACTICE. Simply put, using a V brake lever with a cantilever is the fastest way to pitch yourself over the bars, or lock the rear wheel.

With the Dia Compe, anything more than a faint caress of the lever raised the rear wheel several inches off the ground. Lesson learned.

The other word of caution concerns wide arm cantilevers and smaller frames.

Broader arms can catch heels and in some instances, foul racks/panniers. I may even substitute the On-One cantilevers for the Avid that were formerly up front, next time cable replacement calls. Meantime, I’ll switch over to the tubby tourer, variable gears and of course, testing the IRD.

With this in mind, I’ve added some “helicopter tape” around the top and head tube area. Rubberised cable cuffs are a real boon but wet gritty stuff and Kevlar housings can still make inroads into the paintwork. Yes, even properly applied powder coating.      

I frequently talk about tyres and tyre choice is particularly important during winter. Not only in terms of contact but also puncture resistance. Tackling punctures when it’s cold and dark is no fun.

With that in mind, Cross inspired fixer and I were thwarted by a very aggressive thorn on Thursday morning-I was already running a little behind schedule.

Having pulled over and selecting a sheltered clearing, I opened unzipped the passport wedge pack. Tyre levers, multi tool, cable ties…CO2 inflator…No tube…Patch kit, ummm. How did I manage to leave a tube out!!!

Morale descending close to my boots, I remembered the Upso Stirling https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/upso-stirling-seat-pack  nestling beneath those beefy drops. Peeling back the zipper tags and reaching in, I found one, yes packet fresh and ready to go. Phew! The miracle before Christmas had indeed materialised.

Thorn extracted, fresh butyl and, 55psi in the Nordic spike, we were back in business.  Now, some folks flat more than others but you can never have too many tubes. If you’re stuck stocking-filler wise, for the cyclist(s) in your life, tubes and Co2 inflators are good, practical bets…