Lubes & Links

 I’ve noticed an interesting dual persona to the Blub Ceramic Lube now that temperatures have crept a little higher and roads a little drier. 4 degrees or so and it requires eight hours or so to cure and assumes a state closer to a lighter middleweight wet lube. Muckier to touch but has stayed put for 280 generally wet, gooey miles before topping up was needed. Interestingly, Blub says it will also need topping up on bikes left standing (i.e. not ridden) longer than 48 hours. It took a week before this became plain during March, and with the temperatures wavering between 3 and 16 degrees.  

Same story with the fixed gear winter/trainer. 10-25 degrees is apparently where the lube’s qualities are best. Having replenished Ursula’s thirsty links, I only needed to wait five minutes before it turned from creamy to glazed. Much cleaner too.  Not necessarily ideal for weekend/ sunny days’ bikes but not necessarily a bad choice either-so long as you don’t mind reapplying a light coat each week. Talking of lubes, I’ve played with the Silca Secret Formula Chain Lube long enoughto form firm conclusion Silca Super Secret Chain Coating | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Steve's also been impressed by the Blub Chain Lube BLUB Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)Though unplanned, the Continental Cross King has proven a positive move. In common with the Maxxis, it’s relatively quick on tarmac and hardpack surfaces and sufficiently nimble along gravel roads, green lanes, and forest trails. I’m pondering going the Continental route up front too-again, with the puncture-repelling belt.       

As for the camera mount, well, that’s going to need some revision. The preset positioning is obscuring the Giant computer and I’ve also noted the camera platform, coupled with the use of resins isn’t adequately supporting the camera’s weight, resulting in shake and therefore blurred footage. I’m pondering whether I can revise this mount, or maybe salvage the Minoura. Perhaps a “permanent” bar bag, rear mudguard upgrade...Aside from consumables and testing, I’m not looking to change Ursula’s spec. The old girl is staying in Monster Cross guise.  

The recent blowout allowing, all the tubes have been easily patchable and have returned to the Axiom Ocean City Wave City+Seat Bag AXIOM OCEANWAVE CITY+ SEAT BAG | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), a packet fresh WTB tube has also been parked in the bottle cage caddy. It’s been a bit of a journey, these past 25 years in life and indeed, component changes reflect this. Ursula: The Never-Ending Story | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Tag along tug, four seasons hell n’ high water, Ursula has been a friend, a confident and a reliable companion through some extremely turbulent times. While the days are quite chill suggesting winter hasn’t relinquished its grip just yet, there’s a brighter, sometimes drier narrative. It’s light by 630, enticing me to head out earlier and enjoy the peace.  

I’ve reached the conclusion that the most important components on a working bike are well sealed, hubs, headsets, bottom brackets, and sturdy paint.  

Opinions vary when it comes to colours. Skid mark brown certainly has a wealth of benefits, especially on the theft -repelling front. However, I’m drawn to more neutral livery- dove grey, cream, blues etc. I’ve occasionally toyed with the idea of a bold, vibrant purple next time round but “light” (Ral 7035) grey with a tough clear lacquer coat seems the most likely candidate, come the time the timeless cream starts looking, er, tired… (tyre photo Michael’s garage).     

Not to be left out, the fixed now features this rather lovely Ritchey WCS Carbrillo Saddle. Aimed at road and gravel audiences and measuring 260x146mm, it’s slightly shorter and broader than my “bike-fit” ideal but this wider, flatter shape has some other interesting features.  First up, there’s the patented “Vector Wing” technology, which I’m told features across all Ritchey saddles.  

This means the rails (stainless steel, in this instance) are isolated to help prevent hot spots by dissipating pressure more evenly, away from the sit bones for “all day” comfort. The cover is also noteworthy since it's seamless and attaches to the base without glue, staples, or stitches.  As for the padding, it's a light polyurethane foam.  As the name and 227g might suggest, there’s also some carbon involved. It features in the shell, which is a nylon/carbon fibre mix.  

Shorter nose saddles are designed for riders who want to assume a lower more aggressive stance, although at 260mm, the WSC is much closer to a traditional road saddle (and none the worse for it). Stubbier designs have been compatible with me in the short terms but in practice, I favour something slightly longer.  These things aren’t an exact science and as I’m always saying, contact points are the most personal, some might say, divisive points. 

Plan is to do three hundred miles on the fixed and then switch to Ursula, to test not only its comfort and performance on and off road, but to see if a more upright positioning, placing greater weight on the saddle has any impact. Then of course, there’s the flat profile. Does this have any impact when re/mounting along more technical, or potentially boggy sections of trail for example. 300 miles on each should give sufficient insight into its longer-term comfort, considerations, and potential limitations.  

Do those extra 3mm improve, or detract from comfort, does the sculpted design make any tangible difference? Racing and touring may seem worlds apart but the common link concerns equipment. Saddles being obvious examples, but it goes much wider and includes a change, or tweak to positioning. Never roll up to the start line, or into the wide blue yonder with equipment that’s fresh from the box- get at least a couple of hundred miles with it, while the stakes are low. New bike, groupset, wheels, panniers, shorts, shoes, shifters, the rule applies. I'll close here with my review of the Leatt Jacket MTB Endurance2.0 Leatt Jacket MTB Endurance 2.0 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

 

Forks & Functionality

I'm someone who keeps "doing" (as distinct from "to-do") lists. These are organic, and used to structure, and critically analyse how effectively I'm using time, and other resources. "To do lists are full of good intentions, but few results. Some might even describe them as "where good ideas go to die".

That established, instatiing the Univega's original (and recently refurbed) forks were on Saturday's agenda.

Organisation i.e. laying out tools, parts etc are all part of productivity. I'd suspected the long serving Tortec guards' stays were close to pensionable, so retrieved an SKS set, just in case. 

Next came the crown race removal and setting tools, grease, Allen keys, two sets of cable cutters (Premium for cables, cheap n' cheerfuls for cable ties, and similar donkey work).  

Going off piste, I decided to switch to these Genetic CX Cantilevers https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-cx-cantilever-brakes . I'm very fond of the IRD CAFAM 2 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/ird-cafam-2-cantilever-brakes but fancied a change, and besides, the Genetic are much easier to set up. 

I love a really firm, positive action, so set the spring tension to maximum, greased the "new" forks canti posts with Park PPL1 Poly lube and popped them aboard, before turning my attentions to disassembling the Univega's existing front end. Being a daily driver, I was pleasantly surprised by how easily everything released.  

Full length mudguards (fenders) keep a remarkable amount of corrosive filth, from rider and machine, extending servicing times and ultimately, component life. I was pleasantly surprised by how much, effective Muc-Off Bio Grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-bio-grease-long-term-test was still in evidence. Old "School chair" trials fork out. I gave the Aheadset's bottom race cursory inspection, before delivering a fresh helping, of the jam-ike grease.  

Be rude (and silly) not to.  I replace headsets/ forks maybe once yearly, so find this  wallet friendly Ice Toolz crown race remover perfectly adequate. a few even taps later, I'd extracted the crown race and fitted it to the "new" forks, using my  Cyclo setting tool. 

Scrap "Gas pipe" down tubes make excellent, zero-cost alternatives, although ensure these have been cut cleanly, and accurately...

From this point, everything came back together, sans drama. Wheel reinstated, brakes setup, mudguard hardware greased and snugged tight, it was simply a case of setting bearing tension, trimming cables and naturally, treating the fork to some  Velo 21 Ultimate paintwork protection https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/velo-21 .  

I also took this opportunity to blast some corrosion inhibiting products inside the breathe holes, before hanging the bike up. This encourages it to travel through, and evenly coat the hosts. In a pinch, anything  (petrochemical) oily will do. A teaspoon, or two of 10w/40 motor oil inside a frame, or delivered into the fork blades, via syringe will certainly help. 

I chose to use up an almost exhausted aerosol, of waxy chain lube. Given the temperate weather, it should melt nicely and distribute evenly within their inner sanctum.  Talking of which, Steve's been putting some Boeshield T-9 Bicycle Lube & Protectant through its paces 

https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/boeshield-t-9  

Last but not least, for this "sitting"; dynamo cable and computer sensors were tethered, to their respective blades. Weight might be a lesser consideration on a working bike and ultimately, I didn't weigh both forks. However, anecdotally, the  originals are noticeably lighter (gun to my head, probably 300g), which for me, is another bonus.

Knew there was a reason I squirreled them away...

Continuing the working bike theme, co-editor Steve Dyster has been putting Bristol Bicycles Touring Bike through its paces and seems pleasantly surprised by its blend of fun and practicality. 

https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/bristol-bikes-touring 

Elsewhere, I've commenced testing Muc Off Dry Lube, which has a hue and odour, reminiscent of banana ice cream. It also has a recommended curing time of 4 hours, hence one I'd be inclined to re/apply the evening before riding. Once cured, it seems closer to a "diet" wax formula. 

A formative forty mile blast suggests friction's lower than a snake's testicles but I'll reserve any kind of proper judgement, for another 250, or so. Be interesting to see how it compares with the quick curing Zefal Pro Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-pro-dry-lube,  

Moonlit Miles & Running Repairs FGG

Polaris Bikewear www.polaris-bikewear.co.uk have just sent some samples of their challenge range, which are designed with input from Tegan Phillips and other epic adventure tourists. While retaining the classic cycling cut and materials, other features have been tweaked for comfort and practicality.

Starting with the Nexus short, this is a six panel design made from a subtle navy blue Calvico (Polyester/Elastane) weave. One of the most unusual, though very subtle features are an elasticated mesh pocket on the left leg and a zippered “valuables compartment” on the butt compartment. The former have swallowed my jailor’s bunch without feeling intrusive, overburdened, or indeed ejecting mortar fashion at the first bump.

Inserts are probably one of the most personal contact points-they’ve gone for a medium density TMF, a blend of Coolmax fibres to keep the crotch region arid while a silver anti-bacterial component safeguards against infection. 50 miles in and things are favourable, which isn’t always the case- another 450 or so will give a much better idea of their capabilities and compatibility.

Tasteful Orange/Blue/Yellow silicone leg grippers are more generous than most and designed to prevent gathering and that unsightly branding when its time to strip off and hit the campsite shower blocks. …They also compliment the Challenge merino ride socks. Strictly speaking these are a Merino mix with padded heel and toe sections. Longer cut gives a more civilian look, while giving ankles and lower calves a sporting chance through long grass and brambles. 

Then we have their Traverse Jersey, another Merino based garment for fast wicking odour management. Not sure lime green is my colour (but there are alternatives?). This deviates from the traditional jersey script in several respects. A polo type collar gives better protection from harsh sunlight, while also offering a more civilian look when off the bike. Longer sleeves and front zipper offer similar benefits. The latter has one of the most user friendly tags I’ve ever come across-effortless climate control and subtle reflective detailing brings it to life around dusk and beyond. 

Given the more casual design brief, Polaris has been very inventive with the pockets. Two generous diagonal “Power mesh” stretch pockets sit on the sides and will manage larger mini pumps, smart phone, wallet etc with no hint of ejection over poorly surfaced roads/trails-to date at least. The men’s version features a similarly deep, zippered nelson pocket on the right breast. I’ve hauled my faithful compact camera around without feeling obviously overburdened.

It’s been unseasonably warm this past week or two (well into the late 20s/early 30s) for me to put their windproof pioneer jacket through its paces, even to arrive at any formative opinion.

It’s a two layer polyester design with a vented rear panel  that follows the more relaxed narrative, so won’t draw unwelcome attention and could also be worn as a general outdoor jacket-looks good with Jeans. Looking forward to seeing how it copes with wet and windy weather, the stuff synonymous with autumn and falling leaves.  

Elsewhere, the Univega’s Vittora Randonneur trail tyres finally succumbed to irreparable cuts in the casing. Several thousands of miles under their belt, I had previously patched a gash in the rear tread twice with a “boot” and filling the remainder with high strength glue but a third signalled their retirement.

I’ve gone back to those Vittoria city runner, a nigh on slick 26x1.6 road/commuter model, which rolls a lot faster than their 28tpi casings would suggest. Now, things go in fashions- most of us took the slick route with our mountain bikes during the mid to late 90s.

These days there are abundance of competitively priced, capable road biased flat bar commu-do-mosts, some with derailleurs, others hub transmission that are arguably much better working bikes, mtbs with slick tyres, full length guards, rack and a taller spread of gears remain very versatile four seasons’ bikes. Having succumbed to a some minor knee discomfort, I’m staying off the fixers for now and taking advantage of the Univega’s lower, variable gears and masses of pedal float 

Talking of derailleurs, tickly, noisy changes from its rear Microshift mech were attributed to a dog-eared rear outer cable. Given the inner was in rude health, I simply pruned some leftover compressionless Jagwire housing used on the Ilpompino’s front disc. Crisp shifting restored in two minutes flat-little victories!