Stoppage... AKA Urgent Refurbs

Some lovely rotors and pads arrived from Disco Brakes DiscoBrakes.Com :: Shop :: DiscoBrakes Shop . I wasted no time in removing the long serving and dependable TRP rotor and popping the 160mm Vibe in situ. Cursory inspection suggested my fixed gear winter/trainer’s TRP SLC callipers' organic pads were still passable, so SP PD8 HALO CLASSIC RIM & SHUTTER PRECISION DYNOHUB DISC WHEEL BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) wheel back in situ. Much to my dismay the next morning, stopping prowess had all but vanished...  

Returning home, closer examination revealed muck and accumulated grime were giving a false impression of ample pad material. These had been in situ for 10 months and judging by their condition, should’ve been replaced after 6, maybe 7. The generally accepted rule is replace once the pad has 1.5mm (about 0.03 in) material left. A quick word about pad material, while I’m here. Organic pads (sometimes referred to as resin pads) have a lot in their favour.  

Commonly made from a blend of Kevlar, Rubber, and Silica with a resin bonding, they are quiet, offer sharper braking, and bed in easily. The compound offers excellent insulation against heat build-up, too, although on the flip side, are more predisposed to fade. A minor, if not moot point on a lightweight bike and rider. However, a definite consideration on a touring tandem, or recumbent for example. They also wear relatively quickly in harsh, or mucky conditions, so might not be the best options for winter riding, especially off-road.  

Now, I had a couple of organic Spyre SLC pads in stock, but Disco Brakes were gracious enough to send me some sintered and semi-metallic pads for testing.  Sintered, sometimes referred to as metallic pads are made from bonded metal particles.  In theory, these will last longer than their organic counterparts, especially in wet, muddy, and gritty contexts. They are less prone to fade, so will work better on those long descents.  

However, compared with organic types they need to “warm up” before reaching optimal “bite”, take longer to bed in, and can be noisier. Now, though not relevant on a cable-operated setup, such as mine, the metal components will transfer greater heat to hydraulic fluids, than an organic variant.  

Then again, they’re much less prone to glazing over and last longer. I’ve gone the semi-sintered route. On paper, these should be the best of both worlds, hence my decision. As the name might imply, these are a mix of organic and metal, so take less time to reach performance, shouldn’t fade on long descents, and last better than organic pads in grotty contexts. I’ve never had any problems with pad glaze, but this can be an issue with organic and semi-metallic models, so we’ll see.  

I stripped and cleaned the calipers since these were coated in oily contaminant and the inner cable was fraying. Having stripped back the Souma leather bar tape Souma Leather Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), to get better access to the outer cable and thus route the inner wire through more effectively, I noticed a lot of slop in the Cane Creek SC5 V Brake Lever CANE CREEK V BRAKE DROP BAR LEVERS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), and its internal resin cable tunneling was also showing signs of wear.

I’d come this far... I exchanged the Cane Creek SC5 for this silver Tektro RL520, which is also designed with V and cable-operated discs in mind. (I’d originally earmarked it for Ursula’s disc brake upgrade but discovered the RL340 would work just fine.)  

Next came a fresh stainless steel inner wire (the last in my stock, prompting a further order).

Cables, pads, and chains are all things likely to fail at the least convenient moment, so well worth having a couple in hand. Overhaul complete and braking is better than ever. It also prompted a more thorough Inspection of Ursula’s SLC caliper and pads.  

No such issues but a reminder for more regular investigation and pad replacement. I’ve fitted the other six-bolt Disco Brakes Rotor to the SD8 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) wheel though since it was superior to the serviceable auction site special. Chain and other drivetrain components were also in very rude health, which is a welcome surprise. I’m up to 1600miles on the KMC and on this trajectory, reckon I’ll get to 2,200 before replacements’ prudent. Mick Madgett finished re-building my SL9 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) wheel too, so looking set for the winter, now.

Mysteries...

 Playing a waiting game when it comes to hubs and teeth at present, although the latter is booked in for November, while the embers of a National Health Service remain. I’ll just be known as Meth Lab Mikey for the interim period. Credit to Ison DistributionWelcome to Ison Distribution | Ison Distribution (ison-distribution.com), they’ve sent me a replacement SL9. Next job is to drop hoop and hub with Mick Madgett. I’m sticking with the existing Evaura rim since it’s in good shape and given the UK’s economic climate, I’ll be using what I have, wherever appropriate. 

I dropped by Maldon Shot Blasting & Powder Coating since I was in the area and happened upon this Dawes frame. At first glance, I thought it was a Dawes Edge-a high-end early 90s mountain bike built from Reynolds 531 Magnum tubing, but then I spotted the downtube gear lever bosses and the geometry...Maybe their One Down, a mountain bike frameset built for drop bars and with the full complement of touring braze-ons? 

However, it didn’t employ the “guitar string” cable guides typical of mountain bikes and there’s also a pump peg, which screams traditional road tourer. From memory and indeed, photographs, the One Down was TIG welded, not lugged and brazed.  Wish I’d taken the frame number now, but still.  

The more I reflect, the frame size and configuration shout tourer from this era and the 3rd bottle mount had possibly been added later down the line, coinciding with a re-spray. It certainly wasn’t a sibling to this Dawes they kindly refinished for me, back in 2018 GRAVEL BIKE ON A BUDGET: PART ONE (sevendaycyclist.com) 

The Dawes One Down and to a lesser extent, the Sadar follow a remarkably similar narrative to Ursula, and I really loved Dawes’ take on the rough stuff narrative during the late 90s. Both machines fired my imaginations to the point I would’ve bought either, had I not literally just built Ursula. Everything on the Dawes was right, off the peg, although I would doubtless have gone for a hub dynamo, upgraded the transmission etc, as components wore out.  

The frameset would also have been refinished by now, so in some respects, not much to choose pricewise between these complete builds and Ursula some 23 years hence. Ursula: The Never-Ending Story | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) Fear not my tubby tourer, if you’re reading this, we are staying wedded.  

Later versions of the steel Strada also boasted disc brake mounts, although it was sadly replaced by an aluminium framed, flat bar incarnation in 2007. More town bike cum towpath cruiser than tubby tourer-it was hefty, too. 

A wetter, cooler autumnal progression confirms that, despite not being the sleekest aesthetic, the front Blumels Shiny mudguard SKS BLUEMELS SHINY MUDGUARDS | cycling, but not ususally racing (sevendaycyclist.com) remains highly effective at protecting rider and machine from wet, mucky stuff thrown up by the front wheel. Lights are mandatory on my morning outings- dynamo and potent blinkies at the rear.  

I was stunned to discover the Ravemen CLO6 USB Rechargeable Lightweight Sensored Rear Light RAVEMEN CL06 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) has mysteriously expired. Luckily, I had the Kranx Strix 100 Kranx Strix 100 USB Rear Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) playing backing singer, so I just engaged the 50-lumen flash and carried on.  

Strange since the CLO6 is exceptionally reliable and I was convinced it was fully charged, before heading out. It's since received a full charge and behaving impeccably once more. One of those things, that can strike seemingly without reason. The Kranx Shard 100 USB Rear LightKranx Shard 100 USB Rear Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) also made a positive impression on Steve. 

Not to be outdone, my fixed fear winter/trainer’s handlebar mount suddenly imploded mid-ride, sending the long-serving Geonaute G-Eye 2 clattering to the tarmac. Mercifully, it seems unharmed. Thoughts were toward another Minoura mount, like that adorning Ursula’s bars.  

However, it’s been discontinued and while those I’ve spotted were around the £25-mark, £50 postage renders them uneconomic.

I spotted a composite homage on an auction site-£6, so could be bargain or bin fodder but at that price, a gamble I’m prepared to take. This also prompted a more general, fastener and cable tie inspection- I wasn’t surprised (yet still relieved) to find all well, but this serves to illustrate the importance of regular inspection. Things can still fail unexpectedly and without warning...