Stoppage... AKA Urgent Refurbs

Some lovely rotors and pads arrived from Disco Brakes DiscoBrakes.Com :: Shop :: DiscoBrakes Shop . I wasted no time in removing the long serving and dependable TRP rotor and popping the 160mm Vibe in situ. Cursory inspection suggested my fixed gear winter/trainer’s TRP SLC callipers' organic pads were still passable, so SP PD8 HALO CLASSIC RIM & SHUTTER PRECISION DYNOHUB DISC WHEEL BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) wheel back in situ. Much to my dismay the next morning, stopping prowess had all but vanished...  

Returning home, closer examination revealed muck and accumulated grime were giving a false impression of ample pad material. These had been in situ for 10 months and judging by their condition, should’ve been replaced after 6, maybe 7. The generally accepted rule is replace once the pad has 1.5mm (about 0.03 in) material left. A quick word about pad material, while I’m here. Organic pads (sometimes referred to as resin pads) have a lot in their favour.  

Commonly made from a blend of Kevlar, Rubber, and Silica with a resin bonding, they are quiet, offer sharper braking, and bed in easily. The compound offers excellent insulation against heat build-up, too, although on the flip side, are more predisposed to fade. A minor, if not moot point on a lightweight bike and rider. However, a definite consideration on a touring tandem, or recumbent for example. They also wear relatively quickly in harsh, or mucky conditions, so might not be the best options for winter riding, especially off-road.  

Now, I had a couple of organic Spyre SLC pads in stock, but Disco Brakes were gracious enough to send me some sintered and semi-metallic pads for testing.  Sintered, sometimes referred to as metallic pads are made from bonded metal particles.  In theory, these will last longer than their organic counterparts, especially in wet, muddy, and gritty contexts. They are less prone to fade, so will work better on those long descents.  

However, compared with organic types they need to “warm up” before reaching optimal “bite”, take longer to bed in, and can be noisier. Now, though not relevant on a cable-operated setup, such as mine, the metal components will transfer greater heat to hydraulic fluids, than an organic variant.  

Then again, they’re much less prone to glazing over and last longer. I’ve gone the semi-sintered route. On paper, these should be the best of both worlds, hence my decision. As the name might imply, these are a mix of organic and metal, so take less time to reach performance, shouldn’t fade on long descents, and last better than organic pads in grotty contexts. I’ve never had any problems with pad glaze, but this can be an issue with organic and semi-metallic models, so we’ll see.  

I stripped and cleaned the calipers since these were coated in oily contaminant and the inner cable was fraying. Having stripped back the Souma leather bar tape Souma Leather Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), to get better access to the outer cable and thus route the inner wire through more effectively, I noticed a lot of slop in the Cane Creek SC5 V Brake Lever CANE CREEK V BRAKE DROP BAR LEVERS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), and its internal resin cable tunneling was also showing signs of wear.

I’d come this far... I exchanged the Cane Creek SC5 for this silver Tektro RL520, which is also designed with V and cable-operated discs in mind. (I’d originally earmarked it for Ursula’s disc brake upgrade but discovered the RL340 would work just fine.)  

Next came a fresh stainless steel inner wire (the last in my stock, prompting a further order).

Cables, pads, and chains are all things likely to fail at the least convenient moment, so well worth having a couple in hand. Overhaul complete and braking is better than ever. It also prompted a more thorough Inspection of Ursula’s SLC caliper and pads.  

No such issues but a reminder for more regular investigation and pad replacement. I’ve fitted the other six-bolt Disco Brakes Rotor to the SD8 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) wheel though since it was superior to the serviceable auction site special. Chain and other drivetrain components were also in very rude health, which is a welcome surprise. I’m up to 1600miles on the KMC and on this trajectory, reckon I’ll get to 2,200 before replacements’ prudent. Mick Madgett finished re-building my SL9 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) wheel too, so looking set for the winter, now.