Before the Leaves Fall

 August is but a memory now, the mornings have been progressively cooler, and indeed, the sun struggles to wake before 5.30. Perfect opportunities for testing lights, base layers, and other, seasonally appropriate stuff but a reminder that the Holdsworth and Teenage Dream will soon be entering seasonal hibernation.  

Talking of which, for the time being, I’ve mounted the Hutchinson Challenger up front on the Holdsworth and Fixed Gear Winter/Trainer. Thinking behind this was to see how well they roll, handle, etc., and given 1,000 miles (about 1609.34 km) or so, I’d switch them to the rear. Mounting to both rims was very straightforward, requiring a single (admittedly long) composite lever.  

I’ve fitted ours to the Halo White Line Classic HALO CLASSIC RIM & SHUTTER PRECISION DYNOHUB DISC WHEEL BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com), leaving the Halo White Line Evaura/ SL9 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) shod with the Maxxis. I also opted to switch the Evaura/PD8 to a quick-release Tiagra skewer for added convenience.  

Aside from the obvious reasons, I’m keen to see whether they retain their reliability/puncture resistance as the miles rack up. I also took this opportunity to switch the gold anodised Halo Hex skewer for a Shimano Tiagra quick release, for added convenience. A quick bead of grease on the Cro-moly skewer and trough they went. I digress... Tyres. While switching tyres is arguably perfectly acceptable practice, it should only be front to rear, not the other way round.  

All things being equal, a rear tyre is under much greater loading, this will wear faster. Pop it up front after any mileage and you may pay an undignified and potentially painful price. For 67tpi casings, I’ve been pleasantly surprised by how well the Challenger accelerate and their relative compliance.  

They’ve also corned very reliably following some episodic heavy rains-even at 100psi, which is quite a bit higher than the Maxxis Refuse, which run at a very modest 50-75psi. However, I wasn’t completely surprised to find the Challenger succumbed to a flint induced flat- it had lodged in some gloop and worked into the casing and put a pinprick in the tube. Just shy of the seam, so easy to patch.   

I’d also spotted some self-extracting crank bolts going for the proverbial song, so bought two sets. One for the fixed Gear winter/Trainer’s Genetic Tibia GENETIC TIBIA TRACK CRANKS & RING | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and the Teenage Dream’s new carbon cranks.  

Not that I’m whipping square taper cranks off that frequently these days, but the convenience is welcome. Rude not to at £2 apiece, too. These are a European marque, not a Chinese pattern. The latter are something of a lottery. Too much for my tastes-I’ve had some beautifully made bargains and absolute bin fodder.  My pin spanner also appears to have gone AWOL, so I’ve chosen to regrease and refit the existing crank bolts, while I hunt it down.   

On this occasion, I’m using up the Muc-Off Bio Grease TESTED : MUC-OFF BIO GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) which is a surprisingly stoical blend that performs well across the board. Headsets, hubs, and pedals are its best customers. No issues with metal contact points and fasteners, although Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) has the edge here.  Not so long ago I bought a couple of spare 28.6 collars, since these are the sort of thing that fail infrequently (especially if you’re setting stuff up with a torque wrench).  

However, should they fail, it's always at the least convenient time. Aside from doing the important job of holding your saddle up and post rock steady, they’re dead space. Some brands obviously recognised this and began offering models with integrated carrier mounts.  

Now aside from being a point to attach carrier arms, this could include saddle bag supports, lighting, and other nickknacks. I’ve decided to go this route with Ursula, being my four seasons’ beast of burden.  I also spotted some pre-cut 106 link 10 spd KMC chains at a similarly keen price, so snapped them up while the opportunity presented. 106 links...Well, I may have pruned Ursula’s just a fraction too precisely.  

Wrong Turns & Bum Steers

 No, I’m not referring to more headset dramas. Thankfully, the fleet’s Woodman, FSA and Stronglight are all buttery smooth and without play... 

Looking back on things it had been one of those days and serves as a reminder of how tiredness can impair judgment and lead us down some very blind alleys. Cycling and motorcycling are powerful metaphors for wider life, whether its touring, racing, or just well, riding. 

 

Diagnostics rather than repair are often the involved process and if you’ve started from the wrong point, then everything else will be “off”. Rather like being lost, following that same road will often lead to frustration and wasted time, sometimes (and where possible) its best to pack up and resume another time.  

Ursula’s chain had been jumping when climbing in the small ring. Chain and cassette were in nigh on perfect health, so I assumed it might be the Tiagra mech gumming up, maybe a cable issue...Fast forward to that Saturday afternoon. I’d been treating some minor corrosion on the KA and Micra’s sills and some minor grot on the latter’s door skin.  

As the photo illustrates, the Micra’s was deeper than first believed, requiring two hours welding. Anyhow, I’d given the first coats of marine primer a few hours curing and was waiting to apply a final thin coat.  

I decided now was the time to investigate Ursula’s drivetrain glitch...Spoiler alert, the KMC chain was too long, causing it to kick up. Pruning it from 110 to 104 links the following afternoon cured the problem. However, this wasn’t obvious to me the previous evening. I started by cleaning the Tiagra mech and assessing springs, alignment etc.  

Next thing I knew, I’d replaced the inner cable and even switched mech... No joy (obviously) but I’d an idea that perhaps the Microshift bar con was in fact an mtb version i.e., the pull ratios being different and thus ultimately incompatible with the Tiagra. Nope, not the root issue.  

Weary and dejected, I put Ursula away and downed tools for the day. Following morning, while on another mission, the penny dropped- chain too long! Returned that afternoon, switched the mech and cable, then pruned the chain.... Huzzah, up and down snappily and in both directions. I dare say there’ll be the odd quick tweak in the formative rides to come, but relieved and crucially, quit while ahead.    

I’ve been putting this System EX Grease Gun through its paces- hubs, headset bearings, seat posts etc. I’m still fond of the Finish Line Grease Gun, which has served me very well for a decade or thereabouts, but the System EX is all metal and has an extension for really detailed, mess-free delivery.  

Perfect for fasteners and similar small parts. Made me wonder what had happened to my old-school Dualco Mini Grease Gun. I’m confident it's safely packed away and wasn’t liberated post-move. Park GG1 looks very similar, save for the finish. These have some definite charm, assuming you’re not wanting, dare I say needing to switch between different types.

For these reasons, I’d probably go for a fully synthetic blend of grease, such as the White Lightning Crystal High-Performance Clear Grease TESTED : WHITE LIGHTNING CRYSTAL GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) which can be applied to pretty much any component without fear of it doing something nasty to seals and delicate rubberised components.  

Generally, reliable, I’ve found the Dualco can “ingest” air, interrupting flow rate, so you’ll need to purge by slackening the top and inserting a screwdriver into the base and forcing upward until all the air is expelled. Not a big job but can take a few attempts, which can be frustrating if you’re mid-job.  

As for the System EX and Finish Line designs, these also need to be packed tightly. Fill the gun by hand and then, with chosen grease threaded tight, pump the tube until grease flows easily while depressing the trigger.    

From there, it's pretty much squeeze and go.  However, if you’re having issues, unscrew the gun, squeeze some grease into the chamber and then pump the tube, like a piping bag, or toothpaste until the grease rises to the top of the tube. Repeat as necessary until the tube’s spent. 

Elsewhere, The Hutchinson Challenger have arrived. Ours are the tubed, tan wall 28mmm versions reckoned good for 5,000kms and allegedly a more supple compound than typically found on other “endurance” models. It will be interesting to see how they compare with the Maxxis Re Fuse TR MAXXIS REFUSE TR FOLDING TYRE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which are still serving faithfully on the fixed gear winter/trainer. Ending on a tyre-related note, here’s my review of the Topeak Smart Gauge DX2 Topeak Smart Guage D2X | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)