The Case for Compact Lights

 

Generally riding in the arse end of beyond, high power dynamos are my default form of bike lighting, especially during the darker months. Switching Ursula’s superb K-Lite Bike packer UltraK LITE BIKEPACKER ULTRA DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) for its Bikepacker Pro V2K LITE BIKEPACKER PRO V2 FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) cousin was something of an inspired decision. I am totally smitten with the K-lite family of dynamo lights. The Bikepacker Ultra is the most potent but the Pro V2’s bijous profile has freed up a surprising amount of useable handlebar space, without a tangible loss of performance.  

Nonetheless, compact, mid power lights certainly have their place.  

Clutter-phobic best/sunny day’s machines are the most obvious. These might not see dark, greasy, salty wet roads but often enjoy late summer playtimes, where dusk can sneak up on us. Blinkies are the obvious weapons of choice but dusk and beyond calls for something more potent. The sort that can be navigated by.  

This Ravemen CR600 is a case in point, hence why it’s now adorning the Teenage Dream’s bars (although photographed on my fixed gear winter trainer). As the name implies, it pumps out a maximum of 600lumens and tapers down to 300, 150 and 50lumens, with two flashing modes for good measure. Now, in keeping with this genre of light, run times in the highest settings. 1hour 20 minutes or so, in this instance.  

However, Ravemen lights have some particularly nice, innovative touches, including the ability to plug “power bank” type auxiliary supply to buy some more time, should the integral battery tank. Ravemen also offers a wired “remote” button for easy mode changes on the fly.  

Even along pitch black lanes, 600 lumens provide decent presence but if your training run/commute involves navigating longer sections of unlit roads, 1000lumens would be my benchmark. Lumens are only part of the story though- lens and reflector quality are equally important. Ravemen LR500S Front Light is a prime example of this RAVEMEN LR500S FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) . 

Compact lights can also make good companions and backups for dynamo systems. Even with the K-Lite units, I like to have a blinky on the go and though problems with high-end, high-power dynamo systems are rare, should something unexpected happen, you’ve got backup. Besides, a little torch type model is useful for tackling punctures, diagnosing strange noises, rummaging through luggage etc. Models, such as Moon Meteor Vortex are less compact but have replaceable batteries . 

This has two advantages, the most obvious being that the light isn’t necessarily bin fodder when the battery is. However, it also means you can carry a couple of fully charged spares and slip them in, to extend ride times. Prior to the Ravemen, I had been running the Moon Meteor.  

A very discrete unit delivering 400 lumens in top but with a, attention-grabbing 500 lumen daylight flash. 400 lumens are more than adequate for those afternoons, or early mornings when dusk and dawn are en route and presence is called for. Talking of presence, I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the Brightside Bright, Amber & Sideways BRIGHTSIDE BRIGHT, AMBER & SIDEWAYS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Look closely and you’ll notice I’ve pensioned off the Teenage Dream’s tri bar wrap in  favour of the remnants of Velo Orange Rubbery bar Tape. Knew I’d find a use for it and in this instance, it was literally made to measure.  

The Ritchey wrap had served faithfully for several years but was starting to look tired in places and I knew the Velo Orange would upgrade damping and grip. Not that I ride on the Tri Bars for extended distances and, but these Cinelli Mini Sub 8 Aero Extensions are suitably unobtrusive, while still offering decent shelter from the wind.  

Talking of the Teenage Dream, it’s now 31 years since the original build and It marked my transition to adulthood, and mirroring myself, has evolved progressively since.  

Aside from some fond memories of tractor racing and philosophising with friends on balmy summer rides (talking about women, essentially), I don’t reflect fondly on this period of my life, or the 90s, generally. 

There were definite, tangible achievements, some lessons learned, and significant people met but equally, some very dark and austere times. There is nothing to be gained from living in the past. Learn from it, take only those of genuine significance and continue forward along the winding road.  

 

 

Summer's Slow Swansong

 Sunrise is progressively shy and I’m often out at 5am, which is perfect for testing lights. I’ve been gaining familiarity with the Sigma Blaze and Infinity rear lights. In terms of modes, these have a single, steady beam, reckoned visible to 500metres. The Blaze has an ambient light sensor, which will engage the light, to suit conditions-aside from the darker months, it will theoretically switch on when you’re riding through a tunnel/underpass.  

Now, StVZO (German lighting standards) dictate that lights cannot flash; hence these are steady only. The beam must also “cut off” at the top, which prevents approaching traffic from being dazzled- the same basic principle as dipped car lights. 

 

The Blaze features a “braking function” which engages all three diodes during the day, the lower two diodes at night. One press off the power button primes the ambient light mode, two presses gets you the night setting. Output is impressive, especially given the single, steady mode.  

In common with other lights with “braking” functions, this puts a big dent in the run times, especially when your route involves a few climbs and/or you’re hauling a trailer/tagalong.  I should also point out these are designed to be post, rather than frame-mounted but I’m keen to see if there’s any practical reason for not doing so.  

Lighting aside, while the days are sufficiently long, temperate and relatively dry, I’m trying to get some serious miles on the Teenage Dream, before it goes into seasonal hibernation, around mid-October. I’m using this time to prep my fixed gear winter/trainer and Ursula for the wetter, darker months when reliability is key.  

Both have been stripped and re-greased recently, so that’s one major bit of prep done. I also want to see how well the Peaty’s Speed GreasePEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and Bicycle Assembly Grease PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  Then of course, I’ve recently overhauled Ursula’s drivetrain and cables, so aside from keeping an eye on the chain (which will almost inevitably wear faster, given the mix of stouter lubes, and wet, gritty lanes) tyres are the only other immediate consideration.  

Plan is to run the Marathon Mondial Double Defense Tyre until October, then switch to the Marathon GT365 TESTED: SCHWALBE MARATHON GT 365 TYRES WINTER UPDATE (sevendaycyclist.com).  Other possibilities include the 26x1.95 version of these Kenda Kwick Journey KS Plus KENDA KWICK JOURNEY TYRES | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) or their K935, at the right price. Talking of the Kenda Kwick Journey KS Plus, I may switch the fixed’s Bontrager in their favour.   

There is a lot to be said for building a machine solely for winter. Traditionally, this has followed the old road frameset built up with hand-me-down components narrative. There’s a lot to be said for this recycling. Older components that aren’t snappy enough for racing are usually, still very serviceable. Stouter tyres, full, or “race blade” type guards, fresh cables and bar tape, lights and with some basic care, it’ll protect you and your best bike(s) expensive components from wet, gritty, dark and destructive stuff.  

The flipside of the best bike, really. It only gets used for that season, so while arguably it sees the harshest weather, it isn’t necessarily hardest used. A four season’s bike by contrast is usually so versatile, they become year-round go-tos. Hence why most of my general riding is spread between Ursula and my fixed gear “cyclo crosser with track ends”   

On a very personal note, if I was going for a strictly winter build, I’d probably go for a single speed cyclocross route.  

Track ends, clearance for 700x42c, (probably 35mm default, such as the Kenda Kwick Journey KS Plus and buying more clearance should I want to run winter spikes when roads turn more spiteful than a tabloid headline) full-length mudguards, dyno hub powered front lighting.   

Charge Plug1 was a very fetching, sub £500 package and would’ve fitted this bill rather nicely. That said; though the semi-compact geometry frameset might’ve ticked all these boxes, the 6061 tubes and fork, might’ve been a little “direct”.  

Fixed and single speed drivetrains still need monitoring/inspection (I tend to get through a fixed chain in around 3,000miles) but much cheaper and simpler to keep happy, since there are fewer moving parts to wear out.  

However, as my beloved fixed gear winter/trainer proves, you’ll still need to keep an eye on cable and brake pad wear, even if you’re going the single stopper route. I also spotted some KMC chains going seriously cheap, so snapped them up and have only just needed to replenish the Peaty’s Link Lube All Weather- the original helping had gone way past the 500-mile marker. 

At the other end of a very different machine, I have received this Axiom Citypack 6+. It’s a quick-release system that mounts high up (beneath the saddle rails) but the similarities with the venerable SQR Tour pretty much end here.  

The outer fabric is made from recycled polyester with a waterproof polyurethane coating. More interesting and in keeping with Ursula’s compact geometry, it's intended to address limited wheel/frame clearance, or those who like rack top/trunk bags but don’t fancy being encumbered by a rack.