Bum Steer AKA Its Too Tight, Or Its Too Slack..

 I had a model cancel a shoot, which is annoying but comes with the territory. This presented an ideal opportunity to investigate some issues with my fixed gear winter/trainer’s recently replaced Aheadset.  

I’d pensioned off the long serving FSA, which had served faithfully for five fairly hard years. The lower race employed a cartridge bearing, the upper traditional balls, which keeps costs down, but I fancied something a little more refined, hence the Stronglight.  

However, despite having everything correctly aligned, it wouldn’t adjust properly. Removing slop meant tightening bearings to the point the bars would barely turn. Something was clearly very wrong, and I wondered if this was indicative of a more serious fork steerer issue.   

A full strip and diagnostic session followed. I dismissed the Gusset Uni-Lock Headlock, inspected the fork steerer, paying particular attention to the crown area and went the SFN (Star Fangled Nut) route.  

I then dismantled the headset and found while new, it was a “Franksenset”. One cobbled together from two superficially identical but ultimately, incompatible models (which in retrospect, explains the issues and why it was so cheap). The compression ring being a case in point. Given it was boxed and sealed, I had no reason to think anything was "off".  

Decision made. No sense attempting silk purse from sow’s ear. Might as well start again...The cartridge bearings would be useful but otherwise, I put it down to experience. Thankfully, I found a complete, sealed Olite I’d bought a while back. This also proved an ideal opportunity to use a tube of Park PPL grease that was splitting along the seams.  

Lashings of the tenacious green goo delivered to the cups and races-buttery smooth. New stem bolts, (since the Redshift Sports Shockstop Suspension Stem TEST & REVIEW REDSHIFT SPORTS SHOCKSTOP SUSPENSION STEM (sevendaycyclist.com)’s  were getting a little chewed) some fresh thread lock on the disc caliper mount hardware, some spacer-switching... 

Time consuming but formative checks confirmed things were broadly right, so I fine-tuned the preload and snugged the stem bolts to 5nms. Cane Creek SC5 CANE CREEK V BRAKE DROP BAR LEVERS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)lever engaged and several, neurotic rockings later, I couldn’t trace any slop, so tethered the K-Lite dynamo K LITE BIKEPACKER ULTRA DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) cable to the Kinesis fork leg.  

Of course, I wasn't done there!  

Tyres inflated; pedals switched in favour of the Shimano XT, chain tension tweaked and finally, Motoverde PTFE Chain LubeMotoverde PTFE Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) stripped in favour of this Momum Mic Dry Lube. I finished by giving the frameset a light waxing, buffing with a micro fibre cloth, then popped it away.  

There’s a fine line between staying with something until you’ve got it sussed (and sorted) and quitting while ahead.  Sure enough, the following morning’s shakedown ride confirmed the bearings were a little too snug.  

 

Slackening the stem bolts, I loosened the pre-load by 16th turn, did the rocking back and forth test, then tightened the stem bolts to 5nms.  Cue loud (internal) cheer-it was 5.50am and I didn’t think my neighbours would be so appreciative, dare I say empathetic.  When it comes to bearings, headset and bottom brackets, I preside durability and weather sealing above weight and indeed price. Needle bearing models that displace loads were particular favourites.  

The Teenage Dream was originally built, (back in ‘91) with a Primax unit featuring these, which might seem strange given needle roller bearing models were a tourists’ choice and said machine was a sunny days, pared to the essential's plaything...I’ve run them up to very high mileages on traditional touring lorries but they’re also a good bet for bikes that regularly lug trailers and indeed, tag-alongs.  

Decent waterproof greases, including the Park, or White Lightning Crystal TESTED : WHITE LIGHTNING CRYSTAL GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) certainly help extend service intervals, without shortening component life. Mudguards (Fenders) also make a big difference but if this isn’t an option for you, make a boot from old inner tube to protect the lower race.  

Obviously, being butyl go for a synthetic grease, rather than the old school lithium, or PTFE infused blends, since these will rot rubber-another consideration if headsets employ rubber seals.  Green Oil Eco Grease TWELVE MONTH TEST: GREEN OIL ECO GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) is a surprisingly stoical alternative, albeit not rivalling the Park, or White Lightning blends discussed.  

The Case for Compact Lights

 

Generally riding in the arse end of beyond, high power dynamos are my default form of bike lighting, especially during the darker months. Switching Ursula’s superb K-Lite Bike packer UltraK LITE BIKEPACKER ULTRA DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) for its Bikepacker Pro V2K LITE BIKEPACKER PRO V2 FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) cousin was something of an inspired decision. I am totally smitten with the K-lite family of dynamo lights. The Bikepacker Ultra is the most potent but the Pro V2’s bijous profile has freed up a surprising amount of useable handlebar space, without a tangible loss of performance.  

Nonetheless, compact, mid power lights certainly have their place.  

Clutter-phobic best/sunny day’s machines are the most obvious. These might not see dark, greasy, salty wet roads but often enjoy late summer playtimes, where dusk can sneak up on us. Blinkies are the obvious weapons of choice but dusk and beyond calls for something more potent. The sort that can be navigated by.  

This Ravemen CR600 is a case in point, hence why it’s now adorning the Teenage Dream’s bars (although photographed on my fixed gear winter trainer). As the name implies, it pumps out a maximum of 600lumens and tapers down to 300, 150 and 50lumens, with two flashing modes for good measure. Now, in keeping with this genre of light, run times in the highest settings. 1hour 20 minutes or so, in this instance.  

However, Ravemen lights have some particularly nice, innovative touches, including the ability to plug “power bank” type auxiliary supply to buy some more time, should the integral battery tank. Ravemen also offers a wired “remote” button for easy mode changes on the fly.  

Even along pitch black lanes, 600 lumens provide decent presence but if your training run/commute involves navigating longer sections of unlit roads, 1000lumens would be my benchmark. Lumens are only part of the story though- lens and reflector quality are equally important. Ravemen LR500S Front Light is a prime example of this RAVEMEN LR500S FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) . 

Compact lights can also make good companions and backups for dynamo systems. Even with the K-Lite units, I like to have a blinky on the go and though problems with high-end, high-power dynamo systems are rare, should something unexpected happen, you’ve got backup. Besides, a little torch type model is useful for tackling punctures, diagnosing strange noises, rummaging through luggage etc. Models, such as Moon Meteor Vortex are less compact but have replaceable batteries . 

This has two advantages, the most obvious being that the light isn’t necessarily bin fodder when the battery is. However, it also means you can carry a couple of fully charged spares and slip them in, to extend ride times. Prior to the Ravemen, I had been running the Moon Meteor.  

A very discrete unit delivering 400 lumens in top but with a, attention-grabbing 500 lumen daylight flash. 400 lumens are more than adequate for those afternoons, or early mornings when dusk and dawn are en route and presence is called for. Talking of presence, I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the Brightside Bright, Amber & Sideways BRIGHTSIDE BRIGHT, AMBER & SIDEWAYS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Look closely and you’ll notice I’ve pensioned off the Teenage Dream’s tri bar wrap in  favour of the remnants of Velo Orange Rubbery bar Tape. Knew I’d find a use for it and in this instance, it was literally made to measure.  

The Ritchey wrap had served faithfully for several years but was starting to look tired in places and I knew the Velo Orange would upgrade damping and grip. Not that I ride on the Tri Bars for extended distances and, but these Cinelli Mini Sub 8 Aero Extensions are suitably unobtrusive, while still offering decent shelter from the wind.  

Talking of the Teenage Dream, it’s now 31 years since the original build and It marked my transition to adulthood, and mirroring myself, has evolved progressively since.  

Aside from some fond memories of tractor racing and philosophising with friends on balmy summer rides (talking about women, essentially), I don’t reflect fondly on this period of my life, or the 90s, generally. 

There were definite, tangible achievements, some lessons learned, and significant people met but equally, some very dark and austere times. There is nothing to be gained from living in the past. Learn from it, take only those of genuine significance and continue forward along the winding road.