Bum Steer AKA Its Too Tight, Or Its Too Slack..

 I had a model cancel a shoot, which is annoying but comes with the territory. This presented an ideal opportunity to investigate some issues with my fixed gear winter/trainer’s recently replaced Aheadset.  

I’d pensioned off the long serving FSA, which had served faithfully for five fairly hard years. The lower race employed a cartridge bearing, the upper traditional balls, which keeps costs down, but I fancied something a little more refined, hence the Stronglight.  

However, despite having everything correctly aligned, it wouldn’t adjust properly. Removing slop meant tightening bearings to the point the bars would barely turn. Something was clearly very wrong, and I wondered if this was indicative of a more serious fork steerer issue.   

A full strip and diagnostic session followed. I dismissed the Gusset Uni-Lock Headlock, inspected the fork steerer, paying particular attention to the crown area and went the SFN (Star Fangled Nut) route.  

I then dismantled the headset and found while new, it was a “Franksenset”. One cobbled together from two superficially identical but ultimately, incompatible models (which in retrospect, explains the issues and why it was so cheap). The compression ring being a case in point. Given it was boxed and sealed, I had no reason to think anything was "off".  

Decision made. No sense attempting silk purse from sow’s ear. Might as well start again...The cartridge bearings would be useful but otherwise, I put it down to experience. Thankfully, I found a complete, sealed Olite I’d bought a while back. This also proved an ideal opportunity to use a tube of Park PPL grease that was splitting along the seams.  

Lashings of the tenacious green goo delivered to the cups and races-buttery smooth. New stem bolts, (since the Redshift Sports Shockstop Suspension Stem TEST & REVIEW REDSHIFT SPORTS SHOCKSTOP SUSPENSION STEM (sevendaycyclist.com)’s  were getting a little chewed) some fresh thread lock on the disc caliper mount hardware, some spacer-switching... 

Time consuming but formative checks confirmed things were broadly right, so I fine-tuned the preload and snugged the stem bolts to 5nms. Cane Creek SC5 CANE CREEK V BRAKE DROP BAR LEVERS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)lever engaged and several, neurotic rockings later, I couldn’t trace any slop, so tethered the K-Lite dynamo K LITE BIKEPACKER ULTRA DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) cable to the Kinesis fork leg.  

Of course, I wasn't done there!  

Tyres inflated; pedals switched in favour of the Shimano XT, chain tension tweaked and finally, Motoverde PTFE Chain LubeMotoverde PTFE Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) stripped in favour of this Momum Mic Dry Lube. I finished by giving the frameset a light waxing, buffing with a micro fibre cloth, then popped it away.  

There’s a fine line between staying with something until you’ve got it sussed (and sorted) and quitting while ahead.  Sure enough, the following morning’s shakedown ride confirmed the bearings were a little too snug.  

 

Slackening the stem bolts, I loosened the pre-load by 16th turn, did the rocking back and forth test, then tightened the stem bolts to 5nms.  Cue loud (internal) cheer-it was 5.50am and I didn’t think my neighbours would be so appreciative, dare I say empathetic.  When it comes to bearings, headset and bottom brackets, I preside durability and weather sealing above weight and indeed price. Needle bearing models that displace loads were particular favourites.  

The Teenage Dream was originally built, (back in ‘91) with a Primax unit featuring these, which might seem strange given needle roller bearing models were a tourists’ choice and said machine was a sunny days, pared to the essential's plaything...I’ve run them up to very high mileages on traditional touring lorries but they’re also a good bet for bikes that regularly lug trailers and indeed, tag-alongs.  

Decent waterproof greases, including the Park, or White Lightning Crystal TESTED : WHITE LIGHTNING CRYSTAL GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) certainly help extend service intervals, without shortening component life. Mudguards (Fenders) also make a big difference but if this isn’t an option for you, make a boot from old inner tube to protect the lower race.  

Obviously, being butyl go for a synthetic grease, rather than the old school lithium, or PTFE infused blends, since these will rot rubber-another consideration if headsets employ rubber seals.  Green Oil Eco Grease TWELVE MONTH TEST: GREEN OIL ECO GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) is a surprisingly stoical alternative, albeit not rivalling the Park, or White Lightning blends discussed.  

Laws of Attraction

Brakeless fixed gear builds belong on the track. People riding fixed, on public roads, without a front brake is a pet peeve of mine.

Being brutally honest, given the publicity surrounding Charlie Alliston (Reportedly riding a fixed gear track bike-brakeless, when he collided with a pedestrian in February 2016) I’m astonished that some riders still set their daily drivers this way.

Mainstream press coverage was anything but neutral in tone.




There are a wealth of cars and other vehicles driven with defective components and by operators, without appropriate licences or insurance. Some industry sources estimate there are as many as 216,000 uninsured car drivers. 13.4% residing in East London, where the tragic incident occurred.

Their risk/likelihood of killing, or otherwise ruining lives is considerably greater.







Nonetheless, the law is unambiguous.

It is an offence to ride on a public road without two efficient braking systems. These must apply to both wheels. Riding fixed allows the rider to regulate sped by holding off against the cranks-much better in wet, or icy conditions. A handful of front brake then, could result in a very painful and undignified face plant. That said; a lever operated brake mechanism must feature.

Now, back in the 1950s, when Velodromes packed in the crowds, it was common practice to arrive on your road-path bike, stripping it of mudguards and front brake.

Some folks carried their race wheels on sprint carriers-I still have a set and occasionally deliver/collect a freshly trued wheel this way. One of those concepts I would appreciate coming back into vogue. That said; they’re easily made from aluminium alloy-assuming you’ve got some basic engineering/metal working skills.

I digress… This particular outpouring was sparked by a Bianchi conversion spotted around Coventry’s canal basin. Aside from being badly locked and that unmistakable celeste livery, the bare fork drilling caught my eye.

Thinking back to my earlier paragraph, while unlikely, it is still possible that its owner booby trapped their  bike. Removed front calliper and Dia Compe “Dirty Harry” type lever when parking up?

ON the subject of Celeste, these Jagwire Pro-shift and Pro road brake cables have arrived on the Seven Day Cyclist www.sevendaycyclist.com test bench.

 

I’ve earmarked ours for my Univega, since its neutral cream livery won’t clash and there are signs of kink damage where the existing (model) enters the rear mech. Ideal opportunity to pop said tubby tourer’s wheels on the jig-a quick tension and true before winter.

Speaking of winter, we’ve also had these early winter and lobster gloves arrive from Phew.cc www.phew.cc . These are designed to bridge the gap between spring and full blown duvet type winter gloves. Their windster, windproof and breathable fabric is essentially a fleece lined polyester/nylon mix designed to keep hands temperate between 3 and 12 degrees.

I’ve only had chance to give them a cursory 20miles but was impressed by how temperate the early winter were, as the mercury slipped into single figures. Fit and dexterity are also immediately noticeable too. Flipping them over reveals subtle ulnar defending gel blobs. Grippy silicone detailing adorns the palms, thumb for improved communication with brifters. 

 

Let’s see what the next few weeks and a few hundred miles say.

Elsewhere, I’ve had another of those September inspirations. I’ve always been fond of the now seemingly defunct IRO range and specifically, their Rob Roy, which was similar in concept to On-One’s Ilpompino. https://www.flickr.com/groups/723385@N25/pool/

I had originally wanted to import a Rob Roy back in 2005 but the Ilpompino seemed a better bet all-round. Primarily this was down to concerns over import tax and of course, the baggage destroyers. Would probably bite, if I found a 54/56cm with tatty cosmetics at the right price.

This slightly scabby Peugeot competition frame also triggered my spidey-senses. Hailing from 1981, these were 531 frames in the main triangle sense, which kept prices, well, competitive!

I’ve seen a few sporting 531 part chrome forks, which look lovely. Since there is overlap between electroplate and enamel, the latter tends to flake eventually. Personally, I'd opt for a chrome effect powder coat and colour lacquer, second time round.   

Changeable weather has been perfect for testing the staying prowess of chain lube. I’m still on the first helping of TF2 ultra wax lube 330 miles hence, which is pretty good going, given these types are primarily intended for dry, dusty conditions. A full review will be coming to Seven Day Cyclist very soon. That’s it for now, off to prepare for next week’s NEC show.