Cantilevers in the mist

The wintry weather gave way to the misty, mild and occasionally blustery stuff, typical of these shores around Christmas. Given the recent postal pilfering, I was relieved to return from a wet and greasy ride to discover a box of contraband had been taken in by a neighbour.

Unfortunately, a series of diplomatic incidents instigated by my elderly and very malevolent feline hastened their retrieval. This package came from Interloc Racing Design (IRD) http://www.interlocracing.com/

These are their CAFAM II cantilevers, which I had earmarked for the Univega. A classic wide arm design, sometimes described as MAFAC pattern. Their beautifully polished, CNC machined arms offer vastly superior mechanical advantage compared with modern, low profile types.

Look a little closer and you’ll notice they’re actually a marriage of retro and contemporary. Yes, there’s the old school cable anchor (which tightens via 10mm nut) less convenient, dare I say sleek, than modern Allen key patterns but effective nonetheless.

Yokozuna Cartridge Brake Shoes (Scott-Mathauser Gen-X salmon compound) are another force to be reckoned with and a doddle to setup.

That said; getting modulation and feel bang on proved trickier than I was expecting. Part of this was down to my brain engaging “M system default” but the combination of moustache bars and shorter reach Microshift brifters can also present minor challenges. If adjustment isn’t exacting, the brake lever will, more or less, touch the bars when engaged with any conviction.

On the subject of brake levers, ten years ago, I ran a similar configuration with Dia Compe V brake specific levers. Purely to see, just how dangerous, or otherwise the combination was.

Firstly, I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS PRACTICE. Simply put, using a V brake lever with a cantilever is the fastest way to pitch yourself over the bars, or lock the rear wheel.

With the Dia Compe, anything more than a faint caress of the lever raised the rear wheel several inches off the ground. Lesson learned.

The other word of caution concerns wide arm cantilevers and smaller frames.

Broader arms can catch heels and in some instances, foul racks/panniers. I may even substitute the On-One cantilevers for the Avid that were formerly up front, next time cable replacement calls. Meantime, I’ll switch over to the tubby tourer, variable gears and of course, testing the IRD.

With this in mind, I’ve added some “helicopter tape” around the top and head tube area. Rubberised cable cuffs are a real boon but wet gritty stuff and Kevlar housings can still make inroads into the paintwork. Yes, even properly applied powder coating.      

I frequently talk about tyres and tyre choice is particularly important during winter. Not only in terms of contact but also puncture resistance. Tackling punctures when it’s cold and dark is no fun.

With that in mind, Cross inspired fixer and I were thwarted by a very aggressive thorn on Thursday morning-I was already running a little behind schedule.

Having pulled over and selecting a sheltered clearing, I opened unzipped the passport wedge pack. Tyre levers, multi tool, cable ties…CO2 inflator…No tube…Patch kit, ummm. How did I manage to leave a tube out!!!

Morale descending close to my boots, I remembered the Upso Stirling https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/upso-stirling-seat-pack  nestling beneath those beefy drops. Peeling back the zipper tags and reaching in, I found one, yes packet fresh and ready to go. Phew! The miracle before Christmas had indeed materialised.

Thorn extracted, fresh butyl and, 55psi in the Nordic spike, we were back in business.  Now, some folks flat more than others but you can never have too many tubes. If you’re stuck stocking-filler wise, for the cyclist(s) in your life, tubes and Co2 inflators are good, practical bets…        

Snow Joke!

Staying upright in winter can be a significant challenge. Even if the snowman hasn’t brought the white stuff, black and sheet ice can provide the wrong sort of excitement. I even witnessed a horse losing traction along the backroads this week.

Yes, the past ten days or so have been perfect excuses for hibernating, or whirring away hamster fashion on the indoor trainer.  However, they’ve also presented an ideal opportunity to whip on spiked tyres and explore.

In this instance, I’ve been using Continental’s long running Nordic spike 120. 120 denotes the number of tungsten carbide spikes.

These are the 42mm (1.6 inch) 700c versions, which shouldn’t present much difficulty clearance-wise, with the latest generation of disc braked adventure touring Lorries, or gravel builds.

Pure breed crossers will definitely call for the measuring tape and a pause for thought-especially at the rear triangle. My beloved fixed gear winter/trainer’s rear triangle prohibits this and the 35mm Schwalbe Marathon Winter. Although a pairing is preferable, running a spiked tyre up front certainly makes a big difference to grip.

Just like any other tyre, spiked/studded versions come in different guises, depending on price and intended use.

While both the Schwalbe and Continental use sturdy wire bead casings that will slip aboard deep section rims pretty effortlessly, their tread and design and purposes are actually very different. Yes, both tread patterns scoop away the snow, the spikes then biting into the ice beneath, providing the traction.

However, while I’ve been able to go pretty much anywhere and at a decent pace with the Schwalbe, the 120 stud versions of Continental’s Nordic Spike are positioned along the shoulders.

This makes for swifter progress but favours less extreme, tarmac biased riding. Think slippery suburbs, rather than heavily carpeted lanes, backroads and forest trails. I’d be interested to see how their 240 spiked siblings compare against Schwalbe Marathon Winter.

Whatever model you’re plumping for, it’s worth remembering that while all will deliver reasonable performance on clear asphalt.t roads, bereft of snow and ice, the tread pattern and spikes will result in a degree of resistance.

Not to mention road noise. Both can be annoying but something I’m happy to live with during dicey times-infinitely preferable to coming off and potentially damaging expensive components, or breaking bones.

It’s also worth remembering that some countries recognise e-bikes as powered vehicles. Studded tyres are prohibited on some public roads on the grounds they damage road surfaces.

For this reason, though a faff, it’s worth double checking the law in your country/state before shelling out.  New to riding in and through winter? Have a look at our overviews https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/winter-wonderland-one

Speaking of grip, we’ve reached our conclusion regarding BBB’s flexribbon bar tape and I’ve been pleasantly surprised when everything (although particularly the asking price) is taken into account https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/bbb-bht-14-flexribbon-gel-bar-tape

Lubricants also need to strike a between staying prowess and cleanliness. Wiping down the side-plates weekly to remove ingrained, drivetrain consuming contaminant, is pretty mandatory for traditional wet formulas. Some riders, usually those who consider price to be the determining factor, regarding anything other than 10w/40 motor oil as “snake oil”.

On the plus side it’s cheap, plentiful and works well enough. However, I’ve tested a fair few bike specific wet lubes over the years and found several at different price points that run cleaner and last a fair bit longer too.

It’s too early to say whether the Nasty lube that arrived a couple of entries back will rival Weldtite Tf2 extreme wet https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/weldtite-tf2-extreme-wet-chain-lubr . Mind you, a little seems to be going a very long way and I’ve been traversing some very wet roads these past three hundred miles.

Right, well, after a filthy week’s testing, time I treated my beloved workhorse to a cold water rinse and sudsy bucket wash. Will treat it to this Soma Fabrication Shikoro armoured speed tyre up front and A Soma fabrications Supple Vitesse (700x33c) at the rear. www.somafab.com

Happy Christmas!

Studio & Beyond

I’ve been back in the studio doing fine art nude photoshoots with some fantastic models. Further collaborations are being arranged for January. My Minolta film SLR and this partially stripped Ural motorcycle is all I can publish right now.

 

 

 

I take consent and professionalism deadly seriously and will not release anything, unless the model(s) involved are willing for me to do so. Thanks to Brian, who runs the cottage studio http://www.thecottagestudio.co.uk/  for the use of space and lighting equipment. 

 

Proved an ideal opportunity to see what my A6000 would do in a studio setting. Behaved impeccably from start to finish. Traditionally, I’ve run SLRs in the studio and kept CSC systems for street and location shots but the (minor) gamble paid off. Just as well, given my Alpha SLR got the sulks and refused to play nicely with the remote trigger.

I’ve appreciated the cold, harsher weathers, which is ideal for testing lubes, cables, tyres and of course, clothing. Nasty Lube http://nastylube.com/about/  over in Canada, have sent Seven Day Cyclist www.Sevendaycyclist.com their winter lube.

Simple to apply-sparingly, mind. Too much and you’ll get the spatter effect along your chainstay and rear wheel. That aside, there’s no hanging about waiting for it to cure. Simply, drizzle a little into the links of a freshly cleaned chain, wipe away any excess and scoot-off.

Great for commuting and winter generally, since a wintry spell can strip lubricant bare in a matter of rides. So far, it seems cleaner, dare I say less syrupy than some justly popular favourites. Minus figures in the UK are often over exaggerated but it’s dipped to minus 2 and felt decidedly raw, when wind chill’s introduced. 

We’re looking to get some narrow section spiked tyres in but for the time being, the Schwalbe Marathon GT https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-marathon-gt-tyres   and the Univega’s GT365 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-marathon-gt365-tyre  are hugging slimy roads reassuringly well.       

Spiked, sometimes referred to as “snow” tyres all work to the same basic science. The tread ploughs the white, powdery stuff away, leaving the tungsten carbide spikes to bite into the ice beneath, providing traction.

Progressive acceleration and braking remains imperative but a steady tempo means 17mph is a realistic, dare I say, respectable average speed. Cables are another relatively inexpensive upgrade.

Obviously, testing tends to influence replacement frequency but I’d be inclined to replace standard brake and gear cables twice yearly, seasonally if you’re racing. Rather like stiff greases, sealed systems are a good investment for bikes in hard service.

These typically comprise of a factory lubricated, premium grade stainless steel inner wire, a Teflon coated liner and a heavy duty Kevlar outer. The latter can chomp through paintwork with alarming haste, especially if a layer of grit is allowed to form between them.

Most kits these days use rubberised cuffs to prevent abrasion but carefully cut sections of “helicopter” tape pretty much eliminates this problem. Layered electrical tape will also do, although check more frequently to ensure the outers aren’t making inroads.

While not a sealed system in this sense, I’ve been very impressed with these Jagwire pro road https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/jagwire-pro-road-brake-kit. Simple to fit, compressionless housings, EZ (easy) tunnelling and high quality, PTFE impregnated stainless steel inners deliver impressive modulation, feel and ultimately, stopping prowess!  Right, time I was heading north for another adventure.

 

Striptease

A colder, though dry streak has seen me pluck the Holdsworth from hibernation for some fun along the backroads. The arrival of this Stem Captain clock, also proved an ideal opportunity to strip and re-grease the Woodman Saturn headset’s lower race and needle roller bearings.

The Stem captain is a range of mounts, from clocks and old school compasses to Garmin GPS.

These turn the “dead space” into something more useful. It’s a concept that has grown on me, not to the point where I’d consider it a must-have across the fleet but being able to glance down, rather than grapple with a sleeve, or scroll through a bar mounted computer.

Working on the basis, you’re running the classic star fangled nut configuration and your Aheadset is properly pre-loaded…It’s literally a question of whipping out the 5mm Allen screw and replacing the top cap with the Stem captain and snugging it down as usual.

Next, seat the clock into place with the clear silicone grommet. This holds it snug.  

Things aren’t radically different when it comes to expandable wedge types, common to the Woodman and obviously, carbon steerers.

However, performing said swap at 10am on a cold Saturday morning, on “The soviet -block” (a section of 70’s concrete designated for bike washing and messy fettling) I managed to get the lowest, threaded assembly lodged in the fork’s alloy steerer. 

I attribute this lamentable scenario to the shock of hearing my neighbour, offering their heating engineer de-caffeinated “coffee”.

Think silent scream of revulsion. Said scenario was all the more surreal on account of him hollering from the chimney stack and I “dressed” In Marvel superhero lounge pants and duvet type, hooded cardigan.

Fork and threaded section retrieved, using a scrap mudguard stay (a spare spoke might’ve been a few seconds quicker), I reassembled the bung in its correct order and retouched the forks’ alloy ends with some quick drying gloss black hobby enamel.

Ideally, any retouching should coincide with a few days curing but since the brand in question dries quickly, I risked it for the proverbial biscuit. I’ll build it up in thin coats while it’s tucked away for winter.

Finish line ceramic applied to the lower race, I reinstated the front end, refitting the front brake and double checking the Aheadset was free of unwanted play. Some fresh finishing strips-colour coordinated electrical tape, completed the tune-up and satisfied with the hour’s efforts I headed indoors for sustenance.

Frames are pretty durable. Said frame has been repaired-new bottom bracket shell, minor pitting and small dents addressed. Even carbon composites can be fully rebuilt following some jaw-droppingly serious crashes https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/a-visit-to-carbon-fibre-bike-repair .

This steel frame intrigued me for several reasons. I was initially struck by the smooth fillet brazing and something told me it was one of those frames that had been passed through several club riders. Looking closer, I was surprised to discover fractured “ear” around the seat collar, yet extensive and recent brazing is very apparent at the Bottom bracket shell, down tube bottle bosses and mech hanger.

From the photo, Lee Cooper www http://leecoopercycles.webs.com/ reckoned the work was repairable and around the £30 mark, although worth blasting first to assess the frame’s overall structural integrity.

Elsewhere, those Rock N’ Roll goodies have again, been intercepted. No fault of the supplier, rather seasonal pilfering, within the postal system which, sadly, isn’t that uncommon this close to Christmas.

Most communications workers and delivery drivers are honest people, who work incredibly hard. This also applies to seasonal operatives-I’ve been one, so know. 

Unfortunately, during periods of high demand, there will always be a small, feckless minority, who will steal, or just take them back to the sorting office/depot, because they cannot be arsed to complete their round. 

Right, ending on a positive note. I’m off to sort some reflectors and other lighting ready for next week’s model shoot down in sunny Sussex.

 

 

Shifting Energies

Went to the mind, body spirit and well-being festival at Birmingham’s NEC on November 4th. I’d never been before, so had nothing to gauge it by but the atmosphere was inclusive, welcoming and, as you’d hope, positive.

Equipped with an open, enquiring mind, some products/services smacked of very expensive “snake oil” but that is the case with any large event, regardless of topic/interest. The majority of stall holders/practitioners appeared knowledgeable, qualified and genuine.

On the subject of products and potions, Rock N’ Roll’s UK distributor kindly sent Seven Day Cyclist www.Sevendaycyclist.com some samples for testing. One of the reasons, mild and relatively dry weather aside, why I’ve stuck with dry/emulsion preps, rather than opting for something wet.

Unfortunately, seasonal pilfering seems to have begun early. Despite being in the office, project managing a refit, the (presumably) casual postie claimed I had rejected the consignment…Hmmm.

Elsewhere and as the days draw shorter, well prepped bikes and lighting becomes increasingly important https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/winter-wonderland-one  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/in-the-blink-of-an-eye .Thanks to the ubiquity of COB (Chips on board) technology, where LEDs and placed directly atop printed circuit boards, even relatively small capacity lights are becoming increasingly intense.

I’m also warming to the trend for steady/pulsing settings on blinkies, which combine a fairly modest steady setting-20-lumens, or thereabouts, with a more extrovert flashing cycle-typically 50/70lumens. Paired with a “proper” front light, these seem to hold the attention of other traffic, say when entering the flow of traffic.

I’m putting a Bush & Muller IQ Eyro 39 Lux front light through its paces for another, very popular title.

It looks just like a traditional dynamo light, to the point, I was looking for the connectors! However, it’s powered by an integral lithium ion cell, which has two, steady modes.

The highest is 30lux, the lowest 10. Interestingly, the lens and reflector are engineered in such a way as to project a generally pure, “carpet” of light at close range, which was much better than I was expecting in the navigational sense.

Unlit backroads still call for a fair bit more than 30lux, 80 is nearer the mark, especially if 18 to 23mph is to be a realistic tempo on the flatter sections, let alone faster descents.

Along the lanes, the Eyro feels underpowered, rather than impotent-12-15mph is pretty much tops, 23mph seems realistic through suburban and better lit, semi-rural contexts.

Bush & Muller reckon its’ good for 5hours plus, from a full mains charge- potentially a week’s commuting or so, for some. Though pretty disciplined when it comes to charging, I like auto-kick downs, where lights automatically default to the lowest setting, when the batteries’ reserves dip below a certain point. 

This ensures there’s always something to limp home on, even if we’re talking glimmer territory. Talking of which, even on the lowest 10 lux setting, output seems comparable with an old Lumotec lamp and Nexus dynohub combo that guided me through South London’s shadier districts for several years.

Generally speaking, 800-1200 lumens is my benchmark for unlit lanes. Leaving aside the auction site retina burners, these tend to produce a very pure, assertive arc that makes larger vehicles, SUVs in particular, pause for thought, rather than ploughing ahead.

The Eyro though pure and with reasonable peripheral bleed is comparatively tame. This has seen a few drivers take a more aggressive stance, muscling through and creating tighter gaps, not to mention potentially more danger.

A moot point with more powerful commuter systems, even those packing a modest 650lumens, or so. Observation, though possibly confirmation bias suggests a tendency for those drivers, without other licences to substitute skill with greater aggression.

By the same token, I used to buy into the belief that Black Cab drivers were better drivers. Many years’ experience in the capital and other cities has led me to conclude, they are simply better regulated and undeniably, superior navigators.

Back to lighting, thankfully, most high power systems staircase downwards to 150-200lumens.

More than enough, most of the time for well-lit city and suburban contexts and conserves juice too (although I have been known to crank it up to 300/400 when it’s particularly gloomy, or I’m competing with seasonal, neon malaise). Daylight modes aside, thundering through the town with 1000lumens is not only unnecessary but aggressive and alienates other road users.

The same goes for high output rear blinkies 50-60lumens is brilliant for murky nights and/or unlit backwaters but taking other factors, such as lens and size into account 15/20lumens (maybe 30 in  constant mode) is pretty much optimum, especially in slower moving/rush hour traffic. Dip as you would expect another for you…Talking of which, my reserves are dwindling now, so off to tend kettle and investigate the fridge.