Dark Skies & Dynamo Delights

Some very nice lighting has arrived for testing, including these 1300lumen Klite dynamo lamps. These are targeted at the Gravel/Bike packing and mtb market and built by hand, in Australia.  I've been sent the Bike Packer Ultra, which is beautifully made.  https://www.klite.com.au/product-page/klite-bikepacker-ultra

We've been given both the MTB and road versions. The mtb version has two flood and one spot, the road/gravel version one flood, two spot.  Apparently fully waterproof, everything oozes refinement. Aside from the Cree LEDs, SquareTECH optics and a 3D printed case, it can be mounted facing up, or down, without altering the beam pattern.  

The Mtb version is reckoned to negate any need for a helmet mounted light. I'll introduce that to the Univega in due course and disappear along the eeriest lanes and unmade roads. 

The Bike packer Pro V2, is probably the most apt for Audax, Randonees and similar road biased endurance events. 

Super compact dimensions are going to be a winner with riders who despise cluttered cockpits too. Oh and the  systems will cater for SON or Shimano/Shutter Precision dynohubs https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-evura-shutter-precision-sl9-dy 

https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-rim-and-shutter-dynohub-disc-b

In full blown " Child at Christmas" mode, at the moment, I calmed these impulses and examined the system carefully before introducing the road/gravel version to my fixed gear winter/trainer.  This had the added bonus of tidying  the  bars somewhat. 

Obviously, dynamos don't meet everyone's needs and no everyone needs this kind of  output. In terms of wallet-friendly, compact torch types,  we've been impressed by the RavemenLR500S

https://www.facebook.com/Sevendaycyclistmagazine/videos/384141872482792/?notif_id=1568633671050649&notif_t=notify_me_page and its CR500 cousin 

https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/ravemen-cr500-front-light 

Though I love dynamo lighting, and the concept of producing my own light, I've tended to run a single front lamp from hubs and battery powered blinkies at the rear. Much of this boils down to less cabling and marginally cleaner lines. 

This little ETC Mira rear light also arrived at my door. Using COB (chips on board) construction, where diodes are mounted directly on the boards, optimising available space and, in turn, offering a more intense light. The Mira is designed by Magic Shine, which comes as littler surprise, given it's a dead-ringer for their Seeme 20. 

The Mira boasts a maximum output of 20lumens and 9 modes. By my "rule of thumb" reckoning, 10lumens is fine for concrete jungle and suburban stretches, 15 for semi rural and 20 plus for unlit back roads. Initial impressions are favourable, although, thus far, I'm not convinced of its peripheral prowess. 

Another unit I'd be inclined to pair with a dome-shaped model, such as this Oxford Ultratorch  R50 Slimline Rear Light  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-ultratorch-1, or indeed a AA/A type, which still have some distinct advantages. Specifically, replacement "dry" cells can be bought from roadside garages, supermarkets etc (assuming you'd forgotten to pack a stash). 

That said; some high power front lights including the Ravemen PR1200 
 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/ravemen-pr-1200-dual-lens-front-ligand this Knog PWR Lighthead 1000 are incorporating USB ports, specifically for charging lights, phones and other tech.

We can all get caught out, no matter how well organised, or maintained our machines. With this in mind, I was disappointed to spot an experienced rider completely unlit, pasty dusk.... 

Maybe he was having of of those Friday the 13ths. 

No knife wielding psychopaths wearing hockey masks, rather mine presented as sill rot, on my Ford KA. Seemed water had been tapped behind the door seal, causing it to nibble a 50 pence shaped hole in the inner. Thankfully, my friendly local garage performed a neat and easy fix-£65 all in.  

Back to bikes, the Holdsworth is still seeing plenty of asphalt action, and I've also switched that to Rock N' Roll Extreme LV chain lube, which is proving not only stoical, but surprisingly clean too. 

As the miles rack up, I'm forming the opinion that it might be one of the best lubes-the sort defaulted to, for year round, general riding. Middling curing times won't suit everyone but the ability to  just reapply without the cleansing ritual is a definite boon, especially during late Autumn/Winter.

Cooler days, Warmer Kit

September is here Temperatures and leaves are beginning to drop, Eurobike is in full swing and other shows are limbering up. I'm getting as many miles in on the Holdsworth, before October, when I'll probably commit it to seasonal hibernation. 

Given daylight seems to evaporate by 19.45, I've swapped over to the Ravemen LR1200 front lamp https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/ravemen-pr-1200-dual-lens-front-lig. Not that the PR500 is woefully under powered per se. However,1200 makes life much easier, at 25mph plus. Besides, the brackets are mutually compatible. Would like to get my hands on its 1600lumen sibling, too...

Up the rear, I've been running Oxford Ultratorch R50 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-ultratorch-1  along with the Smart Gem Rear Light https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/smart-gem-rear-light . Enough for most contexts. 

If I don't indulge these Holdsworth riding urges now, I'll only lament it, come the depths of December. Gather ye rosebuds while ye may, and all that.  25mph along the back road, 35 on the descents-lovely. That said; I was surprised, when a fully faired recumbent blasted past, blowing me into the metaphorical weeds! 

Had a few, more traditional e-bikes momentarily drawing alongside, only  to discover they couldn't keep pace with me. Much to their annoyance, and my amusement. I have nothing against e-bikes, whatsoever. Motor doping isn't on, in a competitive context. However, the technology has made quantum leaps in recent years ( some of the race models are very attractive, almost indistinguishable from their exclusively human powered counterparts). 

E-bikes open a new world for people who couldn't previously enjoy cycling and they have obvious applications for cargo bikes and similar beasts of burden. Though I have a working knowledge of the breed, we call upon specialist testers to review ours https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/haibike-sduro 

The Holdsworth is minimalist, built for speed.

 Aside from being seduced by its lively responsive persona, its where I zone in, and exorcise some demons.  I have some profound regrets, and the decisions we make can have lasting, and serious consequences. I often hear the line "If your children have the right skill set, demanded by the economy, they will be fine". 

A somewhat blinkered perspective. One that fails to take a wealth of variables into account. Switching from a manufacturing to service led economy, being a very obvious example.  Yes, continuous development, coupled with transferable skills , offer  solid foundation and a sporting chance of navigating fiscal storms. 

However, getting into bed with the wrong people, romantically, or fiscally (and indeed, both) is an incredibly incendiary, toxic mixture. One that can test in obvious, and unexpected ways. 

Good friendships, stoicism and resilience are pivotal. 

With the seasonal transition in mid flow, little wonder that we're putting the finishing touches, to some late summer tests.. Several weeks and a good few hundred miles hence, I've reached my verdict on the Rock n' Roll Gold LV chain lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/rock-n-roll, which seems a very clean and capable "everyday" blend. 

No compunction to switch the Holdsworth to its heavier, Extreme sibling but I have taken this route, with my fixed gear winter/trainer. Not that its a hardship, since this family of lube is mutually compatible. The solvent content will strip the existing formula and leave the Extreme/Gold/Absolute dry in its place. No call for chain baths, or similar, first. Do go the stripper route, with any other brands' mind and allow a few hours curing time, too.   

For time being, the mercury's still hovering around the high teens, so I can get by with Bib shorts and short sleeve Jerseys. Thoughtfully, Bob Elliot& Co have sent me some Funkier 3/4 lengths. Timely too, since a much loved, and long serving set have gone decidedly sheer, around the buttocks.

Curly Carbon Bars & bust Butyl

With Co-editor, Steve enjoying a short tour of Belgium, I've been busily harvesting kit, while weaving rest and play into the mix. I also fitted these Coefficient The Wave Handlebars, to my Holdsworth. 

Described as "The Ultimate Road, Gravel & Endurance Handlebar"; its a curly carbon fibre design. One that bears passing resemblance to Genetic D-Riser 16 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-d-riser-bars and to a lesser extent, Soma Condor 2 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma-condor-2-shallow-drop-bars

In common with these aluminium alloy models, the wave is reckoned an ergonomic design for riders seeking "The speed of drops, and the long ride comfort of the bar tops". Apparently, the sloping top section provides a hand position mimicking the wrist's natural alignment.  

A slight, 1.5 degree flare reputedly offers a more solid stance, meaning you can remain on the drops for longer, even off road. The grip diameter varies proportionately, to reflect different hand sizes  

Some traditional drop features remain, including 77mm reach and 120mm drop. I've gone for the 44cm, which would seem the best fit, given I'm broader across the shoulders than my height and build would otherwise imply. 

Fully compatible with Di2, there's the option of routing brake and gear cables internally. However, they can be run and taped beneath the bars, as I have here. I've reused the Holdsworth's silicone bar wrap, which also compliments the bars' matt black finish rather well. 

Some folks might be tempted to bolt tri bars atop. Don't! To some extent this would detract from pattern's unique selling points but more importantly, doing so runs the very real risk of potentially fatal, structural damage. Since we're here, maximum recommended torque settings are 6nms. 

Forgo torque wrench at your peril. 

My maiden voyage confirmed I needed to move the bike's Tektro brake lever down a few centimetres but some 220 miles in, I'm suitably smitten. There's sensible scope for torch type lights, computers and similar creature comforts, too.

Given carbon composites should be more readily inspected for signs of fatigue, a naturally grippy, reusable wrap, such as this ACROS Silicone Wrap Handlebar Tape https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/acros-silicone-wrap-handlebar-tape  is an obvious choice. Its also rather nice, in its own right.  

Low weight and wow factor are two obvious draws to carbon but while I wouldn't entertain touring on a carbon frameset (even with a YAK type trailer trundling behind) its nice for other genres of endurance riding. 

Compliance reduces fatigue, especially on longer rides. Said bar swap has shaved 130g but has introduced a more compliant feel to the Holdsworth's front end. On paper, it shouldn't feel that way, given the 531 tubes and carbon composite blades but large flange hubs and relatively deep section rims give a brisk, though slightly direct ride. 

The Coefficient Wave are springy, compared with the otherwise loveable Soma and its quite noticable (though not unpleasant or unsettling) when powering along a climb, from a junction etc. 

Carbon fibre is also very conductive, so when it comes to frames, remember to grease the aluminium alloy bottom bracket sleeve liberally, using an appropriate prep. Assuming of course, you wanted to avert galvanic seizures. White Lightning Crystal High Performance Grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/white-lightning-crystal-grease or Muc Off Bio Grease (which could easily pass for strawberry jam) https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-bio-grease-long-term-test seem effective.

Contrary to popular misconception, carbon composite frames are repairable, even when seemingly beyond redemption. That said; this is only economically viable, on high-end, rather than budget variants. They can also be refinished using 2k automotive paints and either air, or flash cured at 120 degrees. Had a mishap? Have a word with Carbon Fibre Repair in Leatherhead, Surrey. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/a-visit-to-carbon-fibre-bike-repair 

Summer jerseys have become not only lighter, but longer and er, tighter, I mean figure hugging. Thus far, I've only felt the benefits in terms of improved temperature regulation, and indeed, reduced drag. I've only been able to measure this anecdotally (being bereft of wind tunnel facilities) but there's markedly less flutter when hustling along breezy backroads, and screaming along the descents. 

Even with the zipper drawn to half-mast, for additional, physical airflow. This thinner, second skin close genre aren't the most accepting of Lycra arm warmers, base layers etc, which may be a turn off for early spring and Autumn duties. However, they translate well to indoor trainer slavery, I mean service, during the darker months.    

Talking of which, I've also been doing some long, steady night miles with the Ravemen PR1200 USB Rechargeable Dual Lens Front Light https://www.facebook.com/sevenday.cyclist/videos/pcb.2109616222667497/2109613026001150/?type=3&theater  We're also awaiting some rather nice Trelock lights. I'm keen to test another, higher power front dynamo lamp, for my fixed gear winter/trainer (100 lux upwards). 

That said;  I'm not overly keen on the German beam pattern as dictated by their StVZO/TA standards.Yes, there's no doubt it provides enough punch in the seen-by sense. However, on UK roads (Especially unlit ones) its less effective than my beloved Exposure MK1 Revo and indeed, high power rechargeable systems.. 

With Parliament (and some would argue, democracy) in meltdown, the late summer heatwave returned. What better opportunity to get some serious miles on the Holdsworth... 

While fitting those new bars, I nipped the chain tension up a notch, ressurecting these MKS chain tugs, while I was about it. 

Topped up  the Zefal Extra Dry Premium Quality Chain Wax https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-extra-dry-chain-wax  which returned 120 miles, before ultimately stripping with  Naked Bikes Chain Cleaner https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/naked-bikes 

I've since switched to  Rock n' roll Gold LV. Despite some wet spells, the moderate helping delivered to my other chains, is still going very strong after 250miles. 

So then, busted butyl. Well, while prepping my fixed gear winter trainer for a late night saunter and light test, the front wheel's presta valve literally disintegrated in my hand. 

Undeterred, I switched to the Halo Evua And Shutter Precision SL9 Dynohub Wheel https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-evura-shutter-precision-sl9-dy, whacked some wind in the Soma Shikoro tyre https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/s, and replaced the other tube, on my return. The old tube lives on, as a brace for my Nicotina plants, whicxh are doing rather well, all things considered...

Warp Speed, Mr Sulu!

The nights are beginning to steadily creep in. A few weeks back, it was still light by 2100, now I've the dynamo and rear blinkie running at 1930 onward. Some would argue running front and rear blinkies is good practice, long before dusk. I'm inclined to agree. 

My tubby tourer's Exposure Revo dynamo headlight not only produces a very usable 800 lumens, the standlight lasts longer than most. Therefore, no problems at busy junctions. Nonetheless, anecdotally, it seems car, and other drivers respond faster to a fast tempo of a daylight/similar flash setting. Hence the ORP Smart Horn https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/orp-smart-horn and more recently, this Ravemen  LR500S USB Rechargeable Curved Lens Front Light. Clue's in the title, its a compact light with a total (and more potent than figures suggest) of 500 lumens.  

In common with its LR1200 counterpart, it uses lens technology, which is designed to provide a pure, consistent, yet road friendly beam. There are four modes. Three steady High (500) medium (300) and low (100), which should cater for town suburban and semi rural contexts, without being impotent, or abrasive. 

Run times are cited as a commuting friendly 1.6, 2.8 and 7.5 hours respectively. The rapid flash (200) is reckoned good for 15  In emergency, there's the option of plugging into a portable "power bank" and I also like the wired remote option.

Not that the switch cum battery life indicator is tricky to operate and there's a memory mode. Both the 1200 and 500 brackets are fully compatible with the different units, hence I've swapped between tubby tourer and working fixed. There's also an upside down, Garmin type option, if you're pressed for space, or despise clutter. 

An aluminium alloy casing, though not unheard of, at this price point (£34.99) is nice to see. Its shock resistant to 1 metre and complies with PPX 6 for weather repellency. Reassuring.  

Even with high power main systems (dynamos, in this instance) I always carry a second compact unit. Should I puncture/similar along a very dark lane, or snag a wire/similar, then I've always got a sensibly powered backup. Most of the time, these just do a different sort of backing singing-flashing away. Now, much to my surprise, I've discovered it has cancelled out the signal from my tubby tourer's simple little Cat-Eye Quick Computer. 

I initially put this down to a dead sensor battery, and changed the CR2032 button cell, adding a quick lick of Vaseline to the contacts, while I was there.  Spun the wheel, fine. Popped the Ravemem into fast flash the next morning and headed along the lanes. Head unit registered  0 . 

Having stopped and double checked sensor/magnet clearances, I switched the Ravemen off. With (almost) immediate effect,  the display read 14.3 mph. The moment I reengaged the little Ravemen. 0 .  

Shame too, since I was really flying along the flats and descents. In keeping with the Zefal Pro Dry Chain lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-pro-dry-lube and indeed, Muc-Off Dry Lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-dry-chain-lube, the Rock N' Roll Gold LV one of those low friction blends that really encourages a taller gear and faster cadence. Theory goes this family are intended to be topped up, every 100miles or  so, although I've managed over 400 miles with their absolute dry (admittedly, an older formula) 

Anyone will tell you a wired connection is the most reliable. However, I've never experienced this before-with any system. Sure, older wireless models had a reputation for going bonkers, in close proximity to high currents-Pylons, nuclear power stations etc. 

88mph uphill anyone? Might just be the relatively close proximity. It's presently on the Velo Orange Handlebar Accessory mount https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/velo-orange-handlebar-accessory-mou, so I'll swap it around and see if this makes any difference.  Elsewhere,  Oxford have sent us their North Shore Off Road gloves, which are proving surprisingly capable options for late summer road riding, too. Plenty of miles to do before I cement a proper, informed conclusion. Muc Off also sent me a small bottle of their matt finish detailer, which I've wasted no time applying to a few lids.  

Preps & Preparedness FGG

Been a busy week of tweaking and tuning here, with a welcome procession of test kit, to keep me focused and out of trouble. Summer prevails, despite the harbinger of doom  tabloid headlines. 

We're prioritising summer based chain preps and related stuff, at Seven Day Cyclist and I'm hoping to get some decent mileage on the Holdsworth before leaves start falling.  That said; the nights are drawing in that little bit faster now, which is ideal for testing lights. 

The majority of breakdowns are avoidable. Sure, there's always that hole/sharp with your name on it. The best maintained machines CAN let us down, but probability is very small. 

I've been alternating between fixed gear winter trainer and tubby tourer this week. Thundering along 1in 4s at 35mph, keeping up with the spiralling revs and putting the Clarks CMD22 through its paces. Paired to The now discontinued  Kinesis DC37 fork  and Cane Creek V brake lever https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/cane-creek-v-brake-drop-bar-levers, setup was a pig. 

I also had to switch to the TRP Spyre's mount, so the caliper didn't bind against the spokes. Quiet, methodical tweaking, diesel strength coffee and minute adjustments won the day. Formative impressions are very positive, although at this stage, I'm not convinced real world performance is superior to the TRP Spyre. 

Only time and real world miles, will tell.  A sentiment that applies to a wealth of other things. Dry lubes can take many forms, some ceramic blends, such as Weldtite TF2 which cure to a dry, yet surprisingly durable state. 

Others are closer to an oil and some, including Muc Off Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-dry-chain-lube and Oxford Mint Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-mint-cycle-dry-lube are closer to emulsions in their consistency. Ceramics tend to require relatively long curing periods. However, the do run cleanest, in my experience. 

Wax and emulsions tend to melt in higher temperatures. This may look gunky but dirt and grime are locked within the outer layer. This ensures it doesn't form a transmission munching grinding paste, and given time, the grotty stuff will fall away. 

Most noticeably, when its solidified following a cooler period. Unfortunately, in their gooey state, they transfer more readily to hands and clothing. Not ideal, if you're commuting, or doing short "bikes as car" runs in smart trousers.

I carry a couple of latex examination gloves, should a flat/similar roadside mechanical strike. Good practice generally, especially if you are using petrochemical derived formulas.

Speaking of which Rock N' Roll Lubes' UK distributors have kindly sent me samples of the Gold LV and Extreme LV formulas. 

LV stands for low vapour, meaning they're non flammable, so can be transported in the post and on aircraft, without special precautions.  These are not oils, in the commonly accepted sense, so require a different delivery. Strip the chain and cassette of any pre-existing lube (including the factory stuff). 

Shift the chain to the middle of the cassette (as appropriate). Give the  Rock n' Roll a quick shake, undo the cap and apply a continuous flow of lubricant into the chain. Once you've built up a decent layering rotate the cranks for five seconds and clean any excess from the chain's side plates, derailleur jockey wheels etc.  

Now, leave it curing for a few hours. I'm told the Rock n' Roll family are completely compatible. 

Say you wanted to switch from their absolute dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/rock-n-roll-absolute-dry-chain-lube to the Extreme LV. There's no need  to go through the stripping rigmarole, simply deliver the Extreme on top. The solvents will remove the sibling product and leave the other in its place. 

They've also sent us some Miracle Red 3in1 degreaser. They tell me its a bio-degreaser, hand cleaner and stain remover. So, theoretically, you can purge stains from your bike, hands and soiled clothing. In the latter context, it should be applied neat to the affected area, then agitated with a finger nail, then rinsed.  

To date, I've used it to purge mildly mucky maulers and dilute as a bike wash, prior to waxing the Univega with this Naked Bikes Pro Bike Wax Special Edition. In common with several other boutique blends I've tested, this one is a hand poured blend of hard and soft waxes. 

Apparently, it contains Si02 technology and reckoned to last uyp to 12 months between applications. In my experience boutique waxes, though expensive, relative to polymer based car types, do last a good while. 

However, I suspect the maximum periods cited are perhaps, based upon machines in dry storage, rather than daily service. Judging by my Univega, the rich glossy effect is impressive, although, unlike Velo21 Ultimate Paintwork Protection https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/velo-21 , there's no mention of compatibility with matt finishes.  

Naked Bikes also sent their Bike Bling and Chain Cleaner. The former is a quick n' convenient detailer, the sort that really brings out the sheen.  Ideally, give recipient bikes a sudsy bucket wash first. Unlike the Pro Green MX Aftershine101 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pro-green-mx-triple-pack, which is literally blow n' go,  

Bike Bling has to be worked in, then buffed to a shine. Hardly a hardship mind. 

Every now and then, small miscellaneous parts need running repairs. My tubby tourer's otherwise fabulous Exposure Revo MK1 dynamo wiring was looking a touch weary just above the plug. 

Heat shrink was my first idea. I was halfway to ordering some, when I discovered this Thermoworx White morph. Its a versatile polymer along the same lines as Sugru. 

Only, it can be re-used. Set too quick? Apply a hairdryer to it, and gently reshape. It reacts with hot water (62 degrees upwards). So, decant some of the beads into an old cup, boil a kettle and pour in. 

Stir (an old, clean spoke seems perfect) until it assumes a sticky, toffee like consistency. Mould, apply and leave to set. Setting is VERY rapid, so you need to be prepared to work, apply, and shape quickly.  Strictly speaking, its a modification/ "hacking" rather than repair product in the conventional sense. 

Aside from the damaged outer dynamo cabling, I've added "scuff bumpers" to my Univega's Microshift Brifters, made replacement end caps for the mudguard stays and sealed freshly spruned cable ends. Pretty confident I'll find several others. Bike related, and otherwise.