Fifteen Years On...

I acquired the Holdsworth frame and period fork 15 years ago. With the help, skill and kindness of a few people, the 50's frameset underwent the first of two restorations. Road Path to Enlightenment: Primed, Painted and Restored to its Former Glory 

Road Path to Enlightenment: Blink n' You'll Miss It 

Road Path frames were versatile but with minimal compromise.  

Designed to be raced on the track, yet with geometry and clearances that allowed everyday practicalities-full length mudguards, wider tyres and geometry for predictable, yet engaging road handling.  

There was a trend for running track bikes on the road, fuelled in part by the messenger circuit, but stock, a machine designed for track is challenging on metalled roads, given the geometry, fork rake etc.

  

This did give rise to some very practical "off the peg" builds during the 2000s, including Kona's Paddy Wagon, Specialized's Langster and Surly's Steam Roller. I've a soft spot for all three, having ridden all three for a few hundred miles apiece. Of these, the Kona was most compatible with my riding style and indeed, the UK climate. The Holdsworth also signalled a new chapter in my life, the end of a loveless marriage and some might say, reclamation of self.  

There was no need to reinvent myself, I knew exactly who I was, had just been silenced and sidelined for years.  

There's more to bikes than a collection of tubes dressed in components to make them go, stop and handle well. There are miles, memories and other sentimental stuff making them unique and cherished. 

Coinciding with the fifteenth anniversary (of acquisition), I'd dropped by Maldon Shotblasting & Powder Coating, since I was in the area. Aside from a Ferrari shell awaiting blasting, and a beautifully refinished Trek gravel frameset, there was this unidentified lugged road frame hiding away in a corner.  

It had been given a protective red oxide primer coat by the owner and judging by details such as the brake bridge, cable guides and lug work, is a mid-range training frame from the 70s, possibly early 80s. Curiously, braze-ons-bottle bosses, gear levers and top tube cable guides are conspicuous by their absence.  

It was due to be blasted and refinished in a classic chrome effect/blue powder coat, which in my view is infinitely nicer than electroplating (a process tantamount to vandalism in my book and indeed, Tony Oliver's).  

The rains came- well, put more accurately, when a divine entity was washing his tandem trike, he graciously offered to wash his neighbour's tandem triplet. Roads turned to shallow rivers have taxed the otherwise refreshingly stoical Momum Mic WaxMomum MIC Wax Lube | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) so I've switched to Muc-Off -50c chain lube MUC-OFF -50C CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) since its thin, yet reasonably stout and attracts less dirt than a more traditional wet blend.  

One thing led to another (doesn't it always) and I found myself switching Ursula's Selle San Marco Concorde for the slightly wider (145mm) BBB Echelon, which is lighter and has a pressure-relieving cutout.  

I've also swapped the Magicshine Ray 2600 for the Ravemen PR2000, which needed some shim experimentation before I'd achieved the desired, limpet-like tenure to the Velo Orange Handlebar Accessory Mount VELO ORANGE HANDLEBAR ACCESSORY MOUNT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com).  

I was also curious to see whether the PR2000 wireless switch would command its smaller stablemate. I'd had mine a few seasons, so wasn't expecting so but nothing ventured and all that...Ultimately it didn’t but worth a shot. Talking of the Ravemen, here’s Steve’s review of the Ravemen PR1400 Ravemen PR1400 Front Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Back in the late 80s and early 90s September temperatures were in the low teens, much cooler in the mornings, now we are seeing them reach the mid to high 20s in this region of the UK, which concerns me and is a topic all to itself. There have been a few mornings when the mercury’s dropped to 6 or 7 and I’ve been reaching for gilets and three-quarter lengths. Oxford Venture Windproof Gillet OXFORD VENTURE WINDPROOF GILET | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) is my default.  

Features include impressive retro-reflective panelling, four sensibly proportioned pockets (three at the rear and a zippered breast). The fluro version is my preference for murkier, overcast mornings but thanks to the retro-reflective panelling, the stealthy black counterpart is still very conspicuous.  

The only downside is that it’s not one you could tow around in a jersey pocket, should the temperature rise significantly. The Madison Freewheel Men’s Thermal Bib Tights with Pad Madison Freewheel Thermal Bib Tights | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) have also made a reappearance on the pre-dawn outings, supplying some welcome warmth to the knees and protection to the legs when indulging in some off-road exploration, without being overly warm. I'll leave you with my review of the Ravemen TR200 USB Rechargeable Sensored Rear Light Ravemen TR200 Rear Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

 

Ahead of the Curve

While sweeping through the backroads, Ursula and I spotted this stricken Skoda. I’ve seen two other vehicles- a BMW Mini and a Toyota Rav4 meet the same fate over the past three years. Whether this was a blend of too much speed, poor tyre condition, mud on the road, and/or a deer leaping out is impossible to tell. However, having checked for anyone trapped and unconscious, I hopped back aboard Ursula and continued riding.  

The sugar beet crops are being harvested, so tractors and other large agricultural vehicles have been coating the tarmac with greasy, muddy stuff. Fabulous for assessing the Schwalbe Smart Sam’s handling prowess in muddy contexts. I was pleasantly surprised by how well they’ve behaved in these contexts and equally impressed by their mud-shedding ability once back on metaled roads.  

I’m someone who replaces consumables as a matter of course but there are some basic pre-seasonal checks that we should all perform. Especially on a working/winter bike. In my book tyres, wheels, chains, braking-cables/hoses, and pads, and contact points.  

Start by giving the bike a good wash and hard paste waxing-this makes potential issues easier to spot and nicer to tackle-especially if you're farming a job, say a brake bleed to your friendly mechanic.  

Now inspect the tyre casings for wear, bulges and similarly structural stuff. Small nicks and cuts in the tread can be filled with super glue but pension off, if they’ve clearly done a high mileage, or more serious wear’s evident.  

A sudden rush of punctures is another sign an otherwise rugged tyre is coming to the end of its reliable life. I’ve experienced this with some iconic models, including the legendary Schwalbe Marathon Plus.  

Will be interesting to see if this fate strikes the Maxxis Refuse MAXXIS REFUSE TR FOLDING TYRE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) as the darker months and less forgiving conditions unfold. I may well switch the fixed gear winter/trainer’s rear for the CST Xpedium Level 6 700x35C Single Compound 60tpi Wire Bead Tyres CST Xpedium Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Single compound tyres tend to give a more direct ride but last longer, which is another consideration during the winter months.   

In terms of wheels, check rims for wear, dings or similar imperfections and replace before they wear through. Give the wheels a spin and check for any side to side, or up n’ down play. Are all the spokes uniformly tensioned and all present Check the hubs for any grittiness, grumbling or side-to-side play.   

Cup and cone types should be stripped, bearings replaced and re-packed with a stoical grease at least yearly, more regularly on bikes that serve in harsh contexts. Same goes for headsets, especially on bikes shunning mudguards. Metal contact points, such as seat posts and stems should also be re-greased to prevent seizure-related issues. While you’re there, it's worth checking bars and posts for any signs of hairline fracture- especially around the stem face bolts. Check grips, or handlebar tape condition and replace as needed.  

I’ve tended to do this come autumn to coincide with cable replacements, I also find fresh bar tape one of those small but significant motivators, encouraging me to get out and ride. Presently the Souma Leather Handlebar tape is faring very well on Ursula and fixed gear winter/trainer Souma Leather Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and seems tolerant of being re-wound following cable replacements, so stays.   

Saddles, especially the traditional leather type appreciate periodic licks of leather proofing to keep them supple and generally protected from the elements. Leather-covered models should be checked for signs of wear-a bit of electrical tape around the rear will protect against damage when leaning the bike against walls etc. Check the rails too, dents or similar damage signals replacement-failure is often unexpected and potentially very painful.  

Cables are things I replace as and when but those with more prescriptive service intervals should consider replacement every season. Sealed systems can be stubborn to fit and the outers are a little hostile to painted or lacquered hosts, so a strip of helicopter tape where the two meet is a good bet.  

However, they tend to be fit and forget. I prefer systems with compression-less housing since these have minimal friction, which really comes into its own with cable-operated disc setups. Pads also need a careful eye. In terms of discs, I’ll replace them when pads are down to 1.6mm and during winter, opt for either semi-metallic or fully sintered models for added bite.  

I’ve been particularly impressed by Disco Brakes Semi-Metallic pads Disco Disc Brake Pads and Wavey Rotors | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Calliper and Cantilever pads usually have a wear indicator, so keep an eye on those and replace as needed. Upgrading the pads can bring budget stoppers up a couple of notches too. Otherwise, inspect for grit and other stuff regularly to prevent it from consuming pads and rims. 

 

Chains. Yep, these can wear at an alarming rate, especially during winter when you’ve got wet, gritty roads and wet lubes involved. Invest in a chain checker (Basic but serviceable models are only a few quid). Rule of thumb, replace 11-speed derailleur chains when they hit .5 on the tool, 7-10 speed around .75 and single speed 3/32 models at 1.0. Chains are comparatively inexpensive compared with other drivetrain components, so regular replacement will save a lot of money, longer term.