Cream

Paint freshly cured and blemish free, my Univega's frameset grew accustomed to its new identity at centrally heated room temperature. I headed north on other missions and awaited the arrival of those chain-ring bolts for the 1x9 conversion. Several days hence, those bolts had arrived...

Long drives can leave me feeling wired, so I promised myself, I’d “Just do an hour”; treat the frame internally, get the headset, bars, stem, bottom bracket etc in…

Three hours later, I was a lot further along but reaching that dangerous tipping point-the one where thought processes become addled and mistakes made. At 1.30 am, I flopped into bed and resumed building after eight hours rest.

Everything breezed together with liberal helpings of fresh grease and minimal faff. On the subject of grease, I’ve been suitably impressed by the longevity of Green Oil eco grease that remained pretty conspicuous on fasteners and bottom bracket threads alike some months in. http://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-eco-grease  

Full-length mudguards certainly help but, I was also pleasantly surprised to discover a decent layer of Muc-Off grease still adorning the Stronglight Aheadset bearings. These had been pretty much untouched for two years.    

Rebuilding is an ideal opportunity to give components and accessories a really thorough scrub. Mudguards were purged of wintry sludge; corroded “stainless” fasteners were replaced, re-greased and snugged tight. Many miles in, its KMC X9-ept chain http://www.sevendaycyclist.com/kmc-x9-ept-chain was now well past the first flushes of youth and signalled another enforced break, while waited for its SRAM PC971 replacement to arrive.

Puncture season in full swing, I switched my attention to salvaging tubes. Having discovered my ‘cross inspired fixer’s front tyre pancake flat, I changed the tube, rounded up some other casualties and patched them for spares duty.

Two patches is my limit. Those sporting more; or larger lesions are decommissioned and reincarnated as top tube/chainstay protectors, headset or seat collar boots.

During the Univega’s makeover, Graham asked if I would drop by and strip his scabby old tart- a much loved, though world weary mid-90s GT Timberline.

It would’ve been ungrateful to decline, so, needing a break from the screen I popped in midweek. Two hours, one tin of penetrant spray and some nervous moments later, everything (including a seized UN30 cartridge bottom bracket!) relented.

Frameset bare and ready for the stripping tank, I turned my attentions to the Timberline’s grungy Alivio groupset. A liberal helping of Fenwicks’ FS1, some warm water and furious scrubbing later restored it to a socially acceptable and basically serviceable state.

While kinder to user and environment than my old friend, methyl chloride, the wispy vapour emanating from the other tank, always reminds me of the transporter scene in David Cronenberg’s visceral reworking of “The Fly”. Several minutes later and it had done a decent job of softening and partially stripping the existing finish.

Dredged from the chloride tank, things are basically dry. This one leaves a slightly slimy layer behind, which demands a few minutes longer in the blast cabinet.

After a few false starts, every last trace of residual paint and stickers were gone, leaving only a faintly dimpled, primer friendly surface behind. Graham’s going the blue route and has plenty of choice at his disposal.        

Elsewhere, there’s been a sudden swing to wintry weather. I’ve been thankful for my ‘cross inspired fixer’s quick, though dependable handling while chasing along lanes carpeted in thick slush.

Fixed offers that extra bit of feedback between tyres and surface. The ability to ease off gently against the transmission to slow, rather than pulling the front brake and being spat off is a definite plus! 

Midwinter Makeovers & Tales of The Unexpected

Having decided my beloved Univega was going the 1x9 route; I stripped the LX cranks and gave them a seriously good clean. Despite regular cold water rinsing and hard paste waxing, the salt monster had left his pock marked calling card in the anodised finish.   

To make matters worse, after almost twenty years, the flamboyant red enamel was starting to chip all too easily along the chainstays. Up until now, this recession had been held back with decent quality nail varnish but now demanded more remedial action.

 Maldon Shot Blasting & Powder Coating www.ctc-powder-coating.co.uk replied to my SOS email, confirming they’d be happy to sort.

Tuesday afternoon, I needed a break from the keyboard, so stripped the frameset bare and attempted to chase years of waxy home brewed frame preserve from its inner sanctum. This would, theoretically minimise the amount of prep the team had to perform before blasting and ultimately painting. 

Since we’re on the subject, be sure to tell your frame builder/spray shop there is Waxoyl, or similar preserve sloshing around inside. Otherwise, with the introduction of heat, it will become molten, race from the tubes and potentially scald them!

What lies beneath.....

Graham and Chris were taking no chances. When the industrial degreaser didn’t do the business, my frame was immersed in their methyl chloride tank for a few minutes...As the honey coloured gloop dissolved, racing to the surface in a raft of brown bubbles, those relatively thin enamel and primer coats followed suit. 

Much to our surprise, the Alpina 506’s tubes were also sporting a layer of corrosion busting nickel.

Though less of a slippery customer and kinder process than Chrome, chances are the factory enamellers had to use acid etch primers to persuade the paint to stick. It would also explain why, despite high, hell and high water mileages, seemingly bare metal hadn’t succumbed to the elements.

This was easily dismissed in the Iron oxide cabinet before the surface was treated to an even finer polymer bead... Next came that zinc rich epoxy powder primer. I’d plumped for cream this time round, classic and understated. Would coordinate with the bike’s existing kit perfectly too.

The zinc was cured at 150 degrees for 15minutes; cooler than text book and forum lore would suggest. I’m told the lower temperature achieves optimal fusion between the primer and colour coat. 

Higher temperatures would result in a more brittle finish, prone to chipping.

I’d gone for poly gloss buttermilk, which requires particular care. Though the flow rate ensures even coverage, flawless results are difficult given its tendency to drip and run during oven curing. This is also goes for other paints with low pigment.

Even when stored correctly, powder paints eventually “go-off”. This can result in a lumpy; or flawed final effect. Some tell-tale shadowy dimpling had struck along the down tube. Job-lot finishers would probably pass this but Graham was having none of it. Imperfect areas sanded, he disappeared in search of a match and returned with a small tub of “Interpon 610 cream”. 

Initial inspection suggested a peachy pigment but testing on some scrap proved otherwise. A full account is coming up in Seven Day Cyclist www.sevendaycyclist.com  but for now, I’ll leave you with this photo-love story.  Fancy something similar? A single, standard colour, such as this cream including blasting and zinc based primer start at £65. What’s next? Those refurbished cranks, of course.

Cables & Cut Downs

Winter is hard on components and kit. The Univega is the most obvious candidate for some sealed Jagwire road elite sealed brake and shift cables. The existing mid-range inners and budget outers were still in remarkably rude health but generally speaking, I replace control cables seasonally on competition bikes, annually on working bikes.

Impervious designs are nothing new but they’ve come a long way in the last few years.

Housings used to be inflexible builders-hose types, which were difficult to cut and tended to chomp through paintwork with alarming haste, especially when gritty, slimy stuff got trapped between the two. The Gear cable housings proved tough customers to snip, brakes easier than some bog standard benchmarks. 

Though supplied with finish-friendly, rubberised cuffs, Jagwire’s CSX outers are soft, pliable and easily pruned with decent cutters. Same goes for the stainless steel inner wires, which I am told are impregnated with a special polymer lubricant.

Corrosion is something of a moot point but these also feature a non-stick liner, designed to run the cables entire length, theoretically sealing it from grit, dirt and anything else that might impair performance.

Decent snips in hand, everything cuts and comes together beautifully. Stretch is supposedly another moot point. I was surprised to discover some sloppiness at the front lever-easily corrected by pulling the cable taught and snugging down the Avid’s pinch bolt. 

Budget cables by all accounts can lead happy and productive lives but they are prone to fraying and stretch. Traditional MO with these is to pull them taught and leave overnight. Next day, take up the slack, nip everything tight. Flush through with some PTFE based lube every few weeks and in my experience, they’ll plod on for a good six months or so.

The Univega’s rear cable run; though hardly torturous, isn’t the smoothest, high-quality cables make all the difference. Precise, Michael gratifying setup required some patience but rewarded with the slickest action I’ve experienced from the cheap but relatively cheerful cantilevers.

Force of habit usually sees me giving inner wires a quick fortnightly squirt of PTFE based lube but I’ve managed to resist and am exposing the system to wet, greasy roads wherever possible. So far, with zero maintenance, modulation and feel remain superior to mid range cables that I’ve traditionally run, then replaced annually.

Some will argue this level of performance is overkill for a daily driver. I disagree. So long as the groupset, new or old is of a decent calibre, it makes as much sense to have fit n’ forget cables as it does cartridge bearing bottom brackets, pedals, hubs etc.

Come the New Year, I’m going to cut the Univega down to a 1x9. This means I can lose the front mech, save a few grams and put the widely spaced cassette to better use.

Was tempted by a Shimano Zee crankset but having done one of my “January’s a long month, want or need” calculations; I’ve decided to use the existing LX spider. Chain-line is important, so I’ll be installing a shorter UN55 and using the swapping the 32 tooth for the 44. Shorter bolts and Tacx tool in post, it's a job for a quiet January afternoon.

In the meantime, for the budget conscious road fixer fraternity, we have a long term review of System EX track crankset http://www.sevendaycyclist.com/system-ex-crankset. There are better options for track racers wanting to stick with old school square tapers but for the money and winter fixed/single speed projects, it’s superior to some, similarly priced European competition.               

Having left the Univega basted in crap long enough to conclude of Pro Green MX aftershine 101 is a genuinely effective and long-lasting preserve http://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pro-green-mx-triple-pack I’ve been playing with a No quarter bike care kit.

No quarter is also specialist refinishers, offering powder coated and bespoke wet spray makeovers. Therefore, I was expecting something pretty special.  This full ensemble comprises of bike shampoo, assorted sponges, detailing brushes, carnauba hard paste wax and of course, micro-fibre cloths-two in fact.  

Packaging takes its lead from the cosmetics industry and yes, the wax has a really pleasant fragrance.  Unlike traditional bike washes, which are deployed via trigger spray, you pour four capfuls into a bucket of warm water and whip it up into a thick, sudsy lather.

I was quite impressed at that point and though purporting to be kind to ALL surfaces, I wasn’t surprised to discover it’s not the most visually impressive of formulas. That said; it does a decent job of loosening ground in filth-cocktails of slime, spent derv, oil, and road salt, caked on cowpats too. Aside from scent, the wax seems very similar to other hard pastes purporting similar properties.

Fairly economical-a little of both products goes surprisingly far, though overall effect hasn’t been so rich, or glossy as I’d expected. That said; the wax appears to remove some light corrosion and its protective qualities appear pretty good to date...Sleet, snow and similar wet stuff is forecast over the coming weeks, so let’s see how it holds up.