It Just Burst!

No, not that kind of Latex calamity. I’m talking tubes and flats (again). Not a year passes without someone, marketing a new cure for the common puncture. Well, quick fix resurrection is probably more accurate. Timely these GUP sealant and inflator cannisters arrived at my door.

 

These work to the “spare wheel in a can narrative”. Find and remove any offending sharps from the tyre casing(s). Open the valve, deflating completely. Shake the cannister vigorously, plug the yellow “smart” head on and then push upwards to release the mixture of sealant and CO2. In common with pocket Co2 inflator tools, delivery is very controllable. Releasing your grip, eases the flow.

Other designs I’ve used previously haver managed around the 60-65psi mark. This sort of pressure’s enough to limp home on but not going to blow a 700x25c into smithereens. Jettisoning the whole lot in one press isn’t problematic.  

I’ve managed 90psi inside these 38mm Soma Shikoro https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/s , which is impressive. Whip the head off, then spin the wheel quickly, so sealant can race to and plug holes. Give the tyres another, quick onceover; then scoot off.

Sounds perfect for the Monday commute, or when you’re weary, toward the end of a long ride…

Alas, there are limits to any goo-based product. Should they fail, the result can be a big ‘old, undignified mess!

Most will seal small holes (1mm or so) with no problems, provided the sealant is still mobile (varies from brand to brand but expect a year or so’s useful service from this genre).

Much bigger, or something close to the valve, spells new tube and big clean up. So, ensure you’ve a decent spare holidaying in your luggage, and carry some wipes/cloths too-just in case. The Shikoro succumbed to a very aggressive sharp. This had sliced deep into the centre strip.

Taking an educated gamble, with the GUP reaped great reward. It didn’t, with this Panaracer T serv.  A phantom flat by all accounts and not one that, I can attribute to my malevolent farm cat, either. (Although, I’m convinced the old boy takes exception, to the scent of some tyre compounds). Further inspection revealed a weakness around the valve stem, one seemingly common to the budget bundle types.

600 miles in, I’ve reached my short-term conclusions about, which have delighted me with their quick, yet super compliant ride quality. Soma Fabrications Supple Vitesse EX tyres https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma-fabrications-vitesse those seeking something more tourist; should look at these Schwalbe Evolution Marathon Supreme https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-marathon-supreme-tyre

Steve gave them a good blast through Cumbria https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/cycling-in-cumbria-s-border-country . He reckons they lack the outright invulnerability of the Marathon plus but are that bit friskier, easier

Trailers and folders also deserve good rubber.

However, all too often, when it comes to trailers, OEM types are the cheapest knobblies going. Functional enough, to a point. However, something I’d look to upgrade expediently.

Now I use my Yak homage as part of the testing process. This might be a tourer or adventure bike’s stability, or “just” seeing how tyres perform in different contexts. Dave Taylor at Schwalbe UK has learned of this, so is generously some Marathon Plus.

Elsewhere, having discovered the Mango body is in fact, GRP, I’ve been approaching motorcycle refinishers, to see if they’d be interested. I’ve had a couple of very positive leads. Another, similarly helpful spray shop said he didn’t have the room but…had some contacts in Northamptonshire, who would be able to facilitate.
 

A couple have been very enthused about the project and given, back-of-an-envelope quotes. That’s for John to decide but progress, nonetheless. Nothing from Sun Star either, so he’s machining a spider from a budget Sun race triple…

I on the other hand am beset with excruciating toothache, which as suspected, is an abscess. Prescribed antibiotics and more, heavy duty ibuprofen painkiller, I’m presently sporting a pout. The kind, some people pay a fortune for. Wasn’t expecting these side effects though…

Grinning Through The Gloom

These Schwalbe Marathon GT tyres arrived for testing from Schwalbe UK. Ours were the narrower 35mm section- nigh on1.4 inches in old money but there’s an even beefier 38mm, which seem a fitting choice, for the latest generation of disc equipped tourer, or tarmac tamed cross/gravel bikes.

These are much faster than the legendary and justly revered Marathon. Something that is immediately obvious from the first few pedal strokes-they’re also significantly easier to mount-no tyre levers required. Stiffer sidewalls, 7mm and 68g apiece separate them from the generally likeable, uber plush Maxxis Roamer.

Their E-bike compliance is also likely to explain the additional girth, although the Schwalbe inspire greater confidence along the wet, silty lanes. The sort that seem perpetually carpeted in gooey dung, complete with thorny, talon-like hedge clippings.

They use the “Dual Guard” system. Rather than our old friends Kevlar/Aramid, Schwalbe employs a two-layer nylon casing and a further 2.5mm strip of India rubber that works like a trampoline, forcing sharps out, thus minimise the risk of a flat. Schwalbe rate it 6/7 and say it strikes the optimal balance between speed and puncture prevention, which sounds perfect for bikes in daily service.

Talking of which, sidewalls feature a reflective strip and dynamo track, adding to their appeal. 

Retro-reflective strip and the Chevron style water channelling grooves are very reminiscent of Vittoria Voyager hyper http://www.sevendaycyclist.com/vittoria-voyager-hyper-tyre .

Interestingly, their profiles are slightly narrower than the faster rolling, Italian brands’ 35mm section, meaning a more comfortable fit in my winter/training fixer’s rear triangle.  

Formative impressions are very favourable. 65 miles along greasy/icy back roads suggest a quick, yet ultra dependable tyre. It’ll be at least 400 before I arrive at anything near tangible conclusions.  

Meanwhile those slushy lanes see regular post-ride rinse-overs to prevent salty, caustic stuff taking hold and moreover, nibbling away at pretty paintwork and components. I’ve got this down to around 10 minutes, including a quick, precautionary squirt of PTFE based lubes on exposed cables, pivot points and similarly sensitive mechanisms. 

I’ve also reverted to the Rock n’ Roll gold lube for more staying prowess but without the stickiness associated with traditional wet lubes.          

Decent lights are imperative during the winter months and not just the retina melting type, of which I am so very fond. Often it is the blinkies, retro-reflective and tertiary lighting that first registers on a driver’s radar. Aside from the Visijax gilet (www.visijax.com ), which continues to impress me with its presence, I’ve discovered the origins of John Moss’s preference for yellow, signal yellow to be precise.

Both his Tandem trike and Mango fairing sport this shade. Having recently changed the Velomobile’s gearing for a 2x9, thus improving efficiency overall, he’s decidedly dissatisfied with attempts to repair the scuffed nose using single pack acrylic aerosols. His godson works at the sharp end of car body repair, thus is fully equipped to apply 2K. We’ve tracked down a suitable Ford shade, so watch this space...

Elsewhere, we’re a bit further along with Graham’s GT rebuild-I’ve just introduced some cheap but cheerful, Jagwire brake cables. While Graham locates the wheels and I await derailleur cables, I’ve sanded some superficial glazing from the Alivio pads and I’m leaving those stainless steel inner wires to stretch to capacity. Then I’ll re-tension, prune and superglue the ends to stop fraying before it starts.

Premium grade cable sets, such as those Jagwire Elite presently stopping the Univega and are immune to such vices-simply tension, tighten the anchor bolts and trim to size. Budget models, though generally faithful servants benefit from a different approach.

Having set cable tension, pump brake levers ten times in succession to induce some slack. Loosen those anchor bolts, pull the inner wire through again and snug tight. I lean toward leaving them overnight and re-tensioning the next morning. They will have stretched to capacity by this point, so once tweaked, shouldn’t induce any short-soiling moments when tackling a 1in4 descent. Same basic principle applies to derailleurs. 

Right, well that’s it for this entry. Off for a chat with someone about a gravel bike... 

Fast Blasts, Broken Chains & Electric Blue GTs

The new Scram chain was awaiting me when I returned from the midlands. Trimmed to size and fitted in a matter of minutes, I spurned the tool free pin for a more reliable union. Derailleur and rear brake cables re-tensioned, everything was behaving impeccably.

Rear/blinkey lights on charge in preparation for an evening blast, the Exposure revo Mk1 front dynamo lamp was decidedly dormant-not a flicker. I initially feared I’d inadvertently snagged the connector wire. Replacements are around the £12 mark. Hardly going to break the bank but

Dirty hub contacts came as a relief and were easily fixed, with a quick wipe and fresh lick of Vaseline. I’ve not had chance to play with its successors, or indeed, their complete hub-dynamo system, which looks mightily impressive.

I’ve always liked integrated lighting for commuting and touring but was traditionally disappointed by the modest to moderate output-fine for being seen but in my experience, underpowered for navigating dark and lonely lanes.

Paired with a decent helmet light, there’s a reasonable amount of trail/green lane potential too, although it’s worth noting that I only run a front light from the Ultegra hub.    

Last hurdle presented in the guise of a faulty rear valve. It was a latex infused self-healing model, which in my experience are reliable enough and will seal small holes but tend to gum up, or go-off after a couple of years.  

Tube swapped for a standard Schwalbe and wheel reinstated, I took a few shots before popping it away and returned to the study to tackle some deadlines and discuss some quotes. Talking of tyres; Vittoria got in touch and are sending some mid-section 700c winter/commuter-touring models for testing at Seven Day Cyclist.  

I’d received some electroluminescent garments from Visijax, so the cold but clear evening was all the excuse I needed to take the Univega for a cheeky twenty mile test run. Lanes to myself and I was the proverbial child at Christmas. Revelling in the tubby tourer’s majestic, magic carpet ride and crisp shifts, my serenity was shattered by the sudden loss of power followed by that familiar, heart-sinking tinkle of chain tickling tarmac...

Pulling over to the soft grassy verge, I rummaged through my wedge pack until I found multi-tool and spare links. Thankfully, despite tumbling temperatures and numbing digits, I was able to execute substitution within a matter of minutes. The Revolution Vision usb helmet light http://www.sevendaycyclist.com/revolution-usb-helmet-light  in constant, 50 lumen mode, provided just enough light to operate by.

These experiences are all part of riding and a reminder why wedge pack inventories are so important. More often than not, there’s little call for anything beyond the spare tube, spare links, multi tool, snack, change and spare batteries for a light/emergency blinkey but it's worth checking their condition periodically. Eighty miles in, I’m delighted with the regeneration of my mile munching friend and confident.

Numb of bum and brain, I took a break from the keyboard, so headed to Maldon Shot blasting & Powder Coating to bolt Graham’s refinished mid 90s’ GT back together.  His Timberline now sports an electric blue livery, created using a chrome effect powder base and blue lacquer atop. He also decided to strip the Alivio crankset, giving rings and the scabby looking quill stem a satin black makeover.

Tiny traces of powder can still infiltrate bungs and masking, so it's worth giving the bottom bracket shell and derailleur hanger a quick chase through before re-assembly. 

I treated Graham’s GT to a liberal helping of wax-based aerosol preserve. This has a slightly heavier solvent content, meaning the nozzle didn’t clog so readily and all the tubes were evenly coated within a few minutes.

Nonetheless, I deliver a more generous helping down the seat tube, which can then course around the frame in warmer temperatures. Blocking off the breathe holes was fashionable practice with some riders but these are designed to allow moisture to escape, hence I chase these through afterward.

Lashings of Muc-Off bio-grease http://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-bio-grease-long-term-test  were introduced to the headset bearings, bottom bracket shell, cantilever bosses threaded components and contact points.

Though not the thickest blend (or my all-time favourite), I’ve been amazed by its staying prowess. There was plenty of the “strawberry jam” smothering my Univega’s annular headset bearings, even after eighteen months hard service.

New cables and straddle wires are next. In the interests of saving time, we’ve kept the originals as rough templates. Once replacements arrive, I’ll wire everything up and begin fine tuning, exorcising play from the Timberline’s threaded headset. Wheels will also be given a quick once-over. Rim and tyre walls scrutinised, skewers and hub bearings re-greased where appropriate.  

Midwinter Makeovers & Tales of The Unexpected

Having decided my beloved Univega was going the 1x9 route; I stripped the LX cranks and gave them a seriously good clean. Despite regular cold water rinsing and hard paste waxing, the salt monster had left his pock marked calling card in the anodised finish.   

To make matters worse, after almost twenty years, the flamboyant red enamel was starting to chip all too easily along the chainstays. Up until now, this recession had been held back with decent quality nail varnish but now demanded more remedial action.

 Maldon Shot Blasting & Powder Coating www.ctc-powder-coating.co.uk replied to my SOS email, confirming they’d be happy to sort.

Tuesday afternoon, I needed a break from the keyboard, so stripped the frameset bare and attempted to chase years of waxy home brewed frame preserve from its inner sanctum. This would, theoretically minimise the amount of prep the team had to perform before blasting and ultimately painting. 

Since we’re on the subject, be sure to tell your frame builder/spray shop there is Waxoyl, or similar preserve sloshing around inside. Otherwise, with the introduction of heat, it will become molten, race from the tubes and potentially scald them!

What lies beneath.....

Graham and Chris were taking no chances. When the industrial degreaser didn’t do the business, my frame was immersed in their methyl chloride tank for a few minutes...As the honey coloured gloop dissolved, racing to the surface in a raft of brown bubbles, those relatively thin enamel and primer coats followed suit. 

Much to our surprise, the Alpina 506’s tubes were also sporting a layer of corrosion busting nickel.

Though less of a slippery customer and kinder process than Chrome, chances are the factory enamellers had to use acid etch primers to persuade the paint to stick. It would also explain why, despite high, hell and high water mileages, seemingly bare metal hadn’t succumbed to the elements.

This was easily dismissed in the Iron oxide cabinet before the surface was treated to an even finer polymer bead... Next came that zinc rich epoxy powder primer. I’d plumped for cream this time round, classic and understated. Would coordinate with the bike’s existing kit perfectly too.

The zinc was cured at 150 degrees for 15minutes; cooler than text book and forum lore would suggest. I’m told the lower temperature achieves optimal fusion between the primer and colour coat. 

Higher temperatures would result in a more brittle finish, prone to chipping.

I’d gone for poly gloss buttermilk, which requires particular care. Though the flow rate ensures even coverage, flawless results are difficult given its tendency to drip and run during oven curing. This is also goes for other paints with low pigment.

Even when stored correctly, powder paints eventually “go-off”. This can result in a lumpy; or flawed final effect. Some tell-tale shadowy dimpling had struck along the down tube. Job-lot finishers would probably pass this but Graham was having none of it. Imperfect areas sanded, he disappeared in search of a match and returned with a small tub of “Interpon 610 cream”. 

Initial inspection suggested a peachy pigment but testing on some scrap proved otherwise. A full account is coming up in Seven Day Cyclist www.sevendaycyclist.com  but for now, I’ll leave you with this photo-love story.  Fancy something similar? A single, standard colour, such as this cream including blasting and zinc based primer start at £65. What’s next? Those refurbished cranks, of course.