Regina & Revision

 Knowing there would be some lead time before the Park Tool materialised, I took the opportunity to periodically flush the freewheel with PTFE spray, leaving it resting, allowing the lube to seep deep inside. Theoretically, this gives best change of release with minimal to moderate effort.  

The tool is coming from Germany since UK suppliers were talking in terms of 5 weeks. Recent transactions with mainland Europe suggest 10 days, although I won’t be holding my breath and I’m also hoping not to be hit with an unexpected (and unwelcome) import charge, since the UK is no longer part of the single market...Something that is having a catastrophic effect upon many businesses and leading to wider shortages, which are thus far, largely masked by the pandemic.  

Re-greasing the hub threads and skewers, with a compatible grease is a given. Lithium pastes may cling on but will lead to galvanic corrosion (seizure) later down the line. Depending on the quality, lithium pastes can also turn a little “clumpy” over time.  

That said; they still have some merit in old-fashioned cup n’ cone hubs, which would include the Athena. However, Park will be doing these duties. Partly as it needs using up and I’m trying to avoid having too many opened greases hanging around-stock rotation you might say.  

My other defaults are Muc-Off Bio grease TESTED : MUC-OFF BIO GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com) and Green Oil Eco Grease TWELVE MONTH TEST: GREEN OIL ECO GREASE (sevendaycyclist.com), which is reassuringly stiff (long-lasting) for an eco-blend. On par with those infused with PTFE but harmless to seals and other, rubberised components.  

Grease guns are the neatest, cleanest way of delivering lube to surfaces, although sometimes it’s easier to apply via examination gloves, say in cold weather when some formulas assume a thicker, less mobile consistency. 

Thus far, the Bat Wax is proving temperature stable and remains very clean, on both fixed and Ursula, which is pleasing. Miles per application also seems favourable, by genre standards, although miles are suggesting topping up little and often (weekly) gets the very best from it.  

In “Oh well, might as well” mode, I decided to strip the Teenage Dream’s chain and drive side crank, since these were sporting a surprisingly tenacious residual glaze-the remnants of a ceramic wax lube. Being a petrochemical blend, I would need to strip it anyway. Another little job off the list.  

The square taper Campagnolo crankset literally popped off the taper and plenty of grease remained on the bolt threads. These were several years old and otherwise untouched, which illustrates how often I ride it in the rain.  

Those couple of drops on the Kinekt 2.1 Suspension seat post KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) also seem to be keeping its moving parts quiet and sweet.  Talking of which, though roads in my locale are quieter and crucially, less frenetic than other parts of the UK, there’s been a steady increase in traffic as the lockdown restrictions remained and are now steadily relaxing.  

Though caution and critical thinking need to be deployed when watching footage, regrettably a third lockdown is on the cards. Open borders and the novelty of public spaces, such as pubs and bars reopening are an incendiary mix, least since alcohol and social distancing seem mutually incompatible.  

A few months regular service and I’ve reached my conclusions re the Zefal Adventure R11 Waterproof Saddlebag ZEFAL ADVENTURE R11 WATERPROOF SADDLEBAG | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) switching to the Kinekt Waterproof Seat PackKINEKT WATERPROOF SADDLE BAG | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), I was surprised to discover the Kinekt 2.1 had left a noticeable calling card on the Zefal’s sturdy fabric, suggesting there’s a sound argument for suspension specific luggage, or at least checking compatibility with closer scrutiny.  

Rule of thumb, based upon long-term pairings with suspension posts, suggests supple fabrics that can assume the suspension components’ profile fare better than laminated/ TPU types.   

 

Bright Lights Cold Nights

Second week in bedsit land and the boiler has gone bong, meaning no heating and hot water. Memories of the winter of ’92 are flooding back. At present, the temperatures are still creeping into double figures and this property is double-glazed. Therefore, the frosty glaze remains on the outside my window, when I don Lycra and head out for a 5am ride.

Cold showers and a vanishing toilet seat are less welcome, although said facilities remain superior to that infamous East London property 28 years back. Indeed, its 28 years since I bought my first LED light. A rear, two mode Vistalight that was essentially a reflector on steroids but a huge leap ahead of the basic, heavy filament lights that were the norm then.  

Enter these Magicshine See Mee lights. I have the 200, 180 and 100 versions on my test bench and am seriously impressed. The highest figure refers to the “Braking function” which kicks in for three seconds when their motion sensor detects deceleration/similar changes in momentum.

Formative impressions suggest these are too sensitive, triggered by washboard tarmac and longer climbs, thus putting a noticeable dent in run times. Thankfully, they can be switched off. “Braking” lights have become more popular but most I’ve used seem prone to these quirks, so I’m not singling the See Mee range out, per se.

The flashing modes are very effective and relatively frugal, across the board. The 200 also has a tracer light, a secondary diode that casts a 360degree flood at the road, to highlight bike and rider-again, fantastic in terms of presence and my inner child has grinned at the novelty value.

Talking of which, these are competitively priced. The 200 costs £33.99, the 100 £25.99. (At the time of typing, I’m not sure of the 180’s rrp). For the time being, I’m sticking with the Continental Contact Speed Reflex. These continue to impress with their tarmac hugging prowess, low rolling resistant and magic carpet ride quality. To my surprise, the Lezyne Floor Drive track pump’s gauge has expired. I’d had it for some years and it’s a really solidly made unit.

I didn’t want the hassle of buying and installing a replacement gauge, so I went the standalone route and this Topeak Smart Gauge D2. The only potential weak spot is the sprung head. I liked the original Smart Gauge, which came my way some 16 years back, which was a little simpler and had a press on head that would automatically morph to a Schrader, or Presta valve.

Alas after a few years faithful service, mine imploded rather dramatically. A backlight function would be rather handy, say when getting back on the road following a flat-my SKS Air Checker (in storage) has one.

Some would say for the same price, I could’ve bought another track pump but that would be wasteful, since the Lezyne is really well made and a standalone gauge is not only portable but the most accurate. Elsewhere, on the protective/winter front expensive crank arms can get a spanking. These Zefal Crank Armor https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/zefal-crank-armor  are an inexpensive way of protecting them from dings, stones, and other accidental damage. However, they won’t guard against unsightly toe-strap rub and may present compatibility niggles with some cadence sensors.

I was stunned to discover Control Tech are ceasing production of the Silicone bar tape, which I’m astonished, since performance is top notch, in all conditions. 155g (uncut, including CNC machined ends) might be a touch portly for bikes on calorie-controlled diets. However, for mile munching tourers, gravel, and winter bikes, there’s so much going for it.  Need something bike-themed to read as lockdowns come into force? This might fit the bill https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/northbound-down