Back To The Old School

I’ve managed to acquire sufficient chains and control cables for personal consumption and am delighted with Ursula’s Kinekt2.1 upgrade. This final switch has realised my 80’s vision of a drop-bar all-terrain bike. An engaging, lightweight go anywhere, four season’s machine.  

One I sketched, while completely disconnected from the school curriculum and for the most part, my classmates. Sketched without a clue as to how it might be realised, I might add. Daydreams alternated between building a bespoke frameset of my own, to buying something high-end.  

While I would never snub a genuine opportunity to build a frame (as distinct from attending a frame building course) I have decided paying a frame builder, such as Lee Cooper Home - LEE COOPER CYCLE FRAMES (webs.com) to execute my vision, or buying off the peg framesets are more cost-effective, time-efficient options for me.   

Now, I’d be the first to point out that the cynic knows the price of everything and the value of nothing. Building a frameset on a residential frame building course would be incredibly satisfying. However, my money is better invested in a suitable welder and tackling less specialist metalworking projects. Some for my own enjoyment and home economics, other for more immediate, fiscal gain.  

  

Ursula’s frameset is 24 years old, in my possession for 22 of them (bought new old stock). I’ve switched the Zefal Adventure R5 Waterproof Saddlebag ZEFAL ADVENTURE R5 WATERPROOF SADDLE BAG | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) for this Carradice SQR Tour, which is twenty years old. Its waterproof cotton-duck fabric has cultivated a faded patina, but for me, this just adds to its character and testament to its build quality.   

Portly compared with bike packing luggage and can be a handful, laden to the gills but lighter and nimbler than an expedition rack and pannier configuration. Besides, I’ve the trailer for those occasions when I want to haul heavy/awkward loads.  

Unexpectedly, shifting had become unreliable. Cable was the most obvious culprit, since the chain had only recently been replaced, cassette was good. Ditto rear mech and hanger... Inner and outer cable replaced but no matter how much mechanically sensitive tweaking of the rear mech, the brifter remained out of step and a little sloppy.  

Dejected, I packed up for the day and after some reflection, decided on some Tektro RL340 drop levers and a Microshift ten-speed bar-end shifter. This combo might lack the outright refinement, dare I say convenience of Sti/Brifters. However, I ran a similar configuration (Shimano Ultegra) on the original build and there are several distinct advantages, especially on a machine of this kind.  

Aside from reduced vulnerability, in the event of a spill (worst case scenario, they are also cheaper to replace). Shimano Ultegra and the Microshift bar end shifters can be switched to friction, should need arise. Setting up the Microshift was more time-consuming, than the Ultegra.  

However, it all came together nicely, once I decided to take the gear cable in a more ‘cross traditional direction.  Part of the challenge and satisfaction of working on bikes (and machines generally) is working things through and getting them right. 

This also spelled the end for the discontinued (and in my view, fabulous), Control Tech bar tape and prompted a switch to the Soma Condor2 Shallow Drop Bars SOMA CONDOR 2 SHALLOW DROP BARS | (sevendaycyclist.com), since I was in the mood for switching things around. For the time being, I’ve dressed them in the orange Acros Silicone Wrap Handlebar TapeLONG-TERM TEST: ACROS SILICONE BAR WRAP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which is a more flattering contrast than I’d anticipated.  

The Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly GreasePEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) although will revisit in the depths of winter to see how well it performs, long term and in more challenging conditions.  This enforced leave, coupled with the good weather meant I’ve been getting the miles in on the Teenage Dream and enjoying every moment.  

However, the BBB guards had finally succumbed to fatigue at the mounting points, resulting in some periodic but irritating binding. I’ve stripped them, which has obviously solved the problem while resulting in a cleaner aesthetic.    

 

 

Cometh The New Year, Cometh The Man-Flu

Quite a bit has drizzled my way these past few days, from this T-shirt gifted me by Richard at Urban Hunter, some Sugru silicone putty and Guy Andrews' " The Custom Road Bike". Alas, with notable exception, riding has been somewhat limited to the virtual kind thanks to the sudden and deeply debilitating onset of sabre-tooth man-flu. Us don't work, don't eat contract types tend to be fairly stoical so I'm pleased to report nominal impact upon features/copy/photography. After a few months' break, Joshua has resurrected his passion for cycling, taking the trail by storm while demonstrating maturity and confidence beyond his years on public roads. Children outgrow their wardrobes with alarming regularity so these Altura Cruiser Winter tights have replaced his season-too-short Polaris. Made from a rugged fleece-lined polyester; these winter versions incorporate a water-repellent (shower proof) coating for comfort and practicality while a looser cut transcends road, mtb and touring genres nicely. Sensibly positioned Scotchlite detailing provides welcome nocturnal visibility-especially at higher cadences and young protege's find stirrups easier to negotiate than zippered ankles.
Early impressions of this Sugru silicone putty seem favourable, effecting good repair/modification of light brackets and similar lightweight resin accessories. Conceived by Jane, it's basically soft touch rubber reckoned to mould and set permanently with/to aluminium, steel, ceramics, glass, wood and some fabrics/plastics...Not simply "Make do and mend" making a fashionable return in these times of austerity but a creative tool powerful enough to improve existing products.
With this in mind, I've been creating some DIY "cable cuffs" to prevent unsightly and damaging abrasion where outers make contact with the frameset. Claimed operating temperatures between minus 60 and plus 180 degrees suggest a wealth of applications around the workshop. Run around the seat-collar it could provide as weather-tight seal for bikes run in all weathers without mudguards (fenders) thus preventing water, salt and ingress channelling inside the seat-tube.

Peeling open the packaging reveals twelve complimentary/contrasting colour sachets containing the goo. Make sure your desired surface is free of the usual contaminant (dirt, dust, grease etc) before moulding the soft putty around the surface(s) and allowing twenty four hours curing at room temperature. Other possibilities include the semi permanent fitment of cable guides and other low-stress applications. However, don't be telling me tall tales of reuniting broken frame tubes by the roadside...For that you'll need a welder and a wealth of skill.

Transferable skills and plenty of 'em are the way to successfully weather economic nose-dives. MIG (Metal inert Gas, or more accurately Gas Metal Arc Welding seeing as oxygen isn't an inert substance) wouldn't be my tool of choice for constructing lightweight bicycle frames as the temperature is less controllable than oxyacetylene, inviting premature fatigue or simply blowing gaping holes in thin tubing. That said, I've seen some very fetching framesets built this way using off-cuts and leftover paint. Crudely, MIG is a semi automatic process-if you can draw a straight line using a marker pen, then you're capable of producing passable welds with a bit of practice and basic tuition.

The real skill lies in metal preparation- clean, well-mitred joins, dexterity and a decent quality weld unit. The difference between cheap and expensive models is ease of use- on the lowest settings, I have been able to fashion prototype touring trailer chassis from basic grade Columbus tubes with a 140amp semi pro model. Seasoned coach builders and similarly skilled metal workers might achieve the same results using a more rudimentary 110amp unit but it's a lot harder and frankly, we always reach for the tools nicest to use.

Devised for use in WWII munitions factories, the process quickly won favour within manufacturing and later, auto-repair shops thanks to it's ease and speed of use-especially on relatively thin car panels. It's possible to build all manner of nice things from scrap steels-work/storage stands, racks, chairs etc. Many motorcycle frames are constructed this way too...

Ten years on from my early prototypes, I am looking at returning to trailer design on a hobby/cottage industry basis. This time from electrician's conjugate which is of comparable weight to basic Cro-moly, yet so much easier to weld. As a rough and ready reckoner, conjugate is like comparing Peugeot's in-house Carbolite 103 with Reynolds 531- the former was marginally lighter, easier to mass produce but lacked the outright responsiveness and strength to weight ratio. Touring/utility trailers need good handling characteristics and while 4130 of the same weight is less likely to fail, basic hi-tensile steels can be repaired in the back of beyond by pretty much any roadside garage...