Ironing out the imperfections

Third time lucky, they say. Bribed with biscuits, Maldon Shot Blasting & Powder Coating https://ctc-powder-coating.co.uk/ kindly slotted in my beloved "ironing board", and the Univega's original forks. 

Ironing board??? Well, that's Carl, their shot blaster's affectionate nickname, for my beloved Bob Yak homage. One I reckon's rather fitting. Anyhow, like most of my refurbs, there were a few surprises along the way. 

First; the forks. These were chased through with industrial alcohol, to remove any frame preserve. Otherwise (this goes for anything oily, especially OIF motorcycle frames) it will turn molten during the curing phases, ruining the new finish and potentially scalding the sprayer. Not cool.  

Graham then whipped them over to the chilled iron grit cabinet. This media, is extremely effective and more durable, than others. However, for flawless results, he gave them a final tidying, using glass bead. Unlike the frame, there wasn't a nickle plated layer, beneath the flamboyant red enamel. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/after-the-gritters-went-home   

Nonetheless, brazing and TIG work was to the stereotypically clean, uniform Taiwanese standard.  

By contrast, the trailer was submerged in the methyl chloride tank, for twenty minutes. Much as we'd anticipate, the unsealed 2K factory finish began to lift, and was coming away in grey ribbons. This revealed a phosphate rich primer, which I wasn't expecting, given the budget, yet serviceable top coat. 

From here, it went to their main blasting cabinet. One that has echos of Leatherface's cutting room, in Texas Chainsaw Massacre. After performing some remedial surgery on "the pot"; Carl stripped the remaining mulchy mess using cast iron grit. Blasting, regardless of media, provides the lightly dimpled key, for primer and subsequent coats. 

This also reveals the item's true structural integrity. I recommend asking your finisher to give you a call, once they've blasted the frame (or other item). At this point, any remedial works (and their cost implications) can be discussed and, where appropriate, commissioned. 

So, with the fork given its zinc rich, epoxy primer, I had toyed with the idea of having the trailer's swing arm finished in gloss black and the trailer (sorry, ironing board) chrome silver. However, this would be adding mischief to the mix, for no good reason. 

This still received the epoxy base coat, oven cured at 150 degrees, for 15 minutes. The faint tackiness encourages better adhesion, of the colour and clear coats. Chrome silver was then applied, and returned to the curing oven for a further fifteen minutes. 

Graham advised me against touching the colour finish, since this requires an acrylic lacquer. Oils from the skin, however slight, can cause oily patches to bleed through. 

Curiously, there was no call for lacquering the forks, since the gloss black was described as particularly hardy. Besides a small fracture in the clear coat's surface (caused by a quick release "bite mark") could result in blistering and in turn, unsightly peeling.  

Given their attention to detail, and exemplary standards of workmanship, I wasn't remotely surprised (although still delighted) by the impeccable results. Rebuilding took longer than first envisaged. Thankfully I always take photos, of disassembly. 

However, I forgot to take my own advice, when it came to two plastic sleeves. These were hidden deep within the swing arm. More by luck than judgement, I managed to reinstate them correctly, first time. 

Aside from blowing some Green Oil Eco spray lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-eco-spray-lube inside the chassis, I applied liberal slatherings of Pure Bike Grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pure-bike-grease to the swing arm's plastic bushing cum bearings, which will hopefully protect and lubricate.  

Despite thorough masking, some residual specs of powder can sneak in, thus the hitch assembly required a bit of bedding in, and a shot of Green Oil ECo-Spray lube before they'd connect and release smoothly. 

Bob Elliot & Co LTD https://www.bob-elliot.co.uk/ have sent us some lovely Ravemen and Smart lights, so you'll excuse me. Time to pop them on charge, and go out to play.

Ben Hur

 Life is continuously changing, evolving and thus we must adapt, accordingly. Bike Journalism/Kit testing aside, I am a fettler. My two-wheeled fleet is, to some extent always evolving. Not for change’s sake, or to fill a void in my life, rather ‘cos stuff wears out, or in some instances, breaks.

On other occasions, I ruminate on something, explore a few options, THEN decide on the solution(s). This avoids consumption of resources. Money, time, energy/labour and of course, storage.

To some extent, bikes are like relationships, as we mature and (hopefully) gain greater self-awareness, we understand what works for us. I am deeply attached to the Holdsworth and Teenage Dream. However, for general, everyday riding, something with ‘cross type geometry, clearances and indeed, big tyres, is my preference.

Life and people are here to teach us lessons, it is up to us, whether we heed, and learn from them. There are a wealth of people/personalities I navigate on a professional and personal basis. I am pleasantly indifferent to most, deeply attached to a few. There are people with enormous amounts to offer, but nothing good/right for me.

Another narrative, which has endured from my teens, is user-serviceability. Anything I own must be relatively straightforward to maintain properly, and to the highest standards. This also goes for cars, and motorcycles. Back then, the ability to braze/frame build was high on the list.

However, opportunity/finances never presented, and I’ve long recognised it’s a skill best outsourced to those with years of experience. I like welding. A semi-commercial MIG welder capable of taking commercial Argon/CO2 cylinders would be a sensible investment for light fabrication, repair etc.

Fully equipped workshops with TIG welders. Oxyacetylene, Jigs etc are not. A week’s frame building course, does not a master craftsperson, make “Building by numbers” is one thing, being able to problem solve and deliver impeccable results is something entirely different.

To paraphrase my late Grandfather (40 years welding experience, 6year apprentice trained) “Any fool can blast metal together. Making something stick, and moreover behave according to draft, is something entirely different.”  

I do share his somewhat surly and difficult charm, although would like to think I’m more moderate, dare I say agreeable, overall. Contexts established, I leave frame building/modification/repair to the likes of Lee Cooper, and Maldon Shot Blasting & Powder Coating. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/gravel-bike-on-a-budget 

So, with all this in mind. I was overtaken by one of THOSE urges. Pandora’s box sprung open and with it, the yearning for Titanium…Forks. Yes, for Ursula…Not that there’s anything particularly wrong with the existing “school chair” setup, with its beefy legs.

That said; they were aimed at the “Jump” market, so there’s a weight penalty, relative to the original triple butted uncrown, or something like Kona’s iconic Project II. A Chinese manufacturer got in touch, offering me a set with disc, cantilever and mudguard eyelets. £450 was an absolute deal-breaker. If something comes along, at the right price and specification, I’ll take a closer look.  

Elsewhere, I’ve resurrected my Revolution Cargo Trailer (Bob Yak homage) from hibernation. Its primarily been used, not for shopping/utilitarian purposes, but rather assessing the laden handling prowess of test bikes. It needed a good polish, which proved the perfect opportunity to test this Muc-Off Cherry Pop Silicone shine (I also took this opportunity to treat the Univega).

Silicones certainly add shine-especially to plastics. They also add lubricant to polymers/rubberised components, which is good for suspension components. However, unless used sparingly, silicones can also prove dirt traps. To assess this, I delivered ours directly to the trailer chassis, tourer via micro-fibre cloth.

For the time being, said trailer can follow behind my beloved tubby tourer, hauling various weights, to scrutinise gearing more critically-now the honeymoon period’s done. I have a few minor niggles with the Yak homage.

Firstly, the finish isn’t particularly good. Its not poor, rather softer than I’d expect. Once it gets tatty, I’ll get it blasted and powder coated. Similarly, though the wheel is identified as being 16x1.75, offer a branded slick/road version against it, and, nope.

Since its functional enough, I’ve decided to whip out the valve core and introduce some latex type, puncture sealing splooge. Aside from the obvious, I needed to use it up, and this seemed the obvious candidate.

Letting the bike do the lugging, is a golden rule of touring and longer commutes. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/tug-jobs However, depending on your payload, for shorter hauls, rider mounted luggage can be a boon, especially filtering through tighter gaps in traffic. Well-made messenger bags are old boots tough, (usually) weatherproof and ooze cool. Little surprise they’re so popular.

Statistically, many car journeys are less than 2.5 miles. Between this and 5 miles or so, messenger bags have a ln their favour. My Chrome Industries (model) is still serving me well, and Steve’s been putting this Chrome Modal Vale Sling Bag through its paces  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/chrome  .

He’s been similarly impressed with this Carradice Kelbrook Satchel, which is made here, in the UK  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/carradice-kelbrook-satchel

Cometh The New Year, Cometh The Man-Flu

Quite a bit has drizzled my way these past few days, from this T-shirt gifted me by Richard at Urban Hunter, some Sugru silicone putty and Guy Andrews' " The Custom Road Bike". Alas, with notable exception, riding has been somewhat limited to the virtual kind thanks to the sudden and deeply debilitating onset of sabre-tooth man-flu. Us don't work, don't eat contract types tend to be fairly stoical so I'm pleased to report nominal impact upon features/copy/photography. After a few months' break, Joshua has resurrected his passion for cycling, taking the trail by storm while demonstrating maturity and confidence beyond his years on public roads. Children outgrow their wardrobes with alarming regularity so these Altura Cruiser Winter tights have replaced his season-too-short Polaris. Made from a rugged fleece-lined polyester; these winter versions incorporate a water-repellent (shower proof) coating for comfort and practicality while a looser cut transcends road, mtb and touring genres nicely. Sensibly positioned Scotchlite detailing provides welcome nocturnal visibility-especially at higher cadences and young protege's find stirrups easier to negotiate than zippered ankles.
Early impressions of this Sugru silicone putty seem favourable, effecting good repair/modification of light brackets and similar lightweight resin accessories. Conceived by Jane, it's basically soft touch rubber reckoned to mould and set permanently with/to aluminium, steel, ceramics, glass, wood and some fabrics/plastics...Not simply "Make do and mend" making a fashionable return in these times of austerity but a creative tool powerful enough to improve existing products.
With this in mind, I've been creating some DIY "cable cuffs" to prevent unsightly and damaging abrasion where outers make contact with the frameset. Claimed operating temperatures between minus 60 and plus 180 degrees suggest a wealth of applications around the workshop. Run around the seat-collar it could provide as weather-tight seal for bikes run in all weathers without mudguards (fenders) thus preventing water, salt and ingress channelling inside the seat-tube.

Peeling open the packaging reveals twelve complimentary/contrasting colour sachets containing the goo. Make sure your desired surface is free of the usual contaminant (dirt, dust, grease etc) before moulding the soft putty around the surface(s) and allowing twenty four hours curing at room temperature. Other possibilities include the semi permanent fitment of cable guides and other low-stress applications. However, don't be telling me tall tales of reuniting broken frame tubes by the roadside...For that you'll need a welder and a wealth of skill.

Transferable skills and plenty of 'em are the way to successfully weather economic nose-dives. MIG (Metal inert Gas, or more accurately Gas Metal Arc Welding seeing as oxygen isn't an inert substance) wouldn't be my tool of choice for constructing lightweight bicycle frames as the temperature is less controllable than oxyacetylene, inviting premature fatigue or simply blowing gaping holes in thin tubing. That said, I've seen some very fetching framesets built this way using off-cuts and leftover paint. Crudely, MIG is a semi automatic process-if you can draw a straight line using a marker pen, then you're capable of producing passable welds with a bit of practice and basic tuition.

The real skill lies in metal preparation- clean, well-mitred joins, dexterity and a decent quality weld unit. The difference between cheap and expensive models is ease of use- on the lowest settings, I have been able to fashion prototype touring trailer chassis from basic grade Columbus tubes with a 140amp semi pro model. Seasoned coach builders and similarly skilled metal workers might achieve the same results using a more rudimentary 110amp unit but it's a lot harder and frankly, we always reach for the tools nicest to use.

Devised for use in WWII munitions factories, the process quickly won favour within manufacturing and later, auto-repair shops thanks to it's ease and speed of use-especially on relatively thin car panels. It's possible to build all manner of nice things from scrap steels-work/storage stands, racks, chairs etc. Many motorcycle frames are constructed this way too...

Ten years on from my early prototypes, I am looking at returning to trailer design on a hobby/cottage industry basis. This time from electrician's conjugate which is of comparable weight to basic Cro-moly, yet so much easier to weld. As a rough and ready reckoner, conjugate is like comparing Peugeot's in-house Carbolite 103 with Reynolds 531- the former was marginally lighter, easier to mass produce but lacked the outright responsiveness and strength to weight ratio. Touring/utility trailers need good handling characteristics and while 4130 of the same weight is less likely to fail, basic hi-tensile steels can be repaired in the back of beyond by pretty much any roadside garage...