Ironing out the imperfections

Third time lucky, they say. Bribed with biscuits, Maldon Shot Blasting & Powder Coating https://ctc-powder-coating.co.uk/ kindly slotted in my beloved "ironing board", and the Univega's original forks. 

Ironing board??? Well, that's Carl, their shot blaster's affectionate nickname, for my beloved Bob Yak homage. One I reckon's rather fitting. Anyhow, like most of my refurbs, there were a few surprises along the way. 

First; the forks. These were chased through with industrial alcohol, to remove any frame preserve. Otherwise (this goes for anything oily, especially OIF motorcycle frames) it will turn molten during the curing phases, ruining the new finish and potentially scalding the sprayer. Not cool.  

Graham then whipped them over to the chilled iron grit cabinet. This media, is extremely effective and more durable, than others. However, for flawless results, he gave them a final tidying, using glass bead. Unlike the frame, there wasn't a nickle plated layer, beneath the flamboyant red enamel. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/after-the-gritters-went-home   

Nonetheless, brazing and TIG work was to the stereotypically clean, uniform Taiwanese standard.  

By contrast, the trailer was submerged in the methyl chloride tank, for twenty minutes. Much as we'd anticipate, the unsealed 2K factory finish began to lift, and was coming away in grey ribbons. This revealed a phosphate rich primer, which I wasn't expecting, given the budget, yet serviceable top coat. 

From here, it went to their main blasting cabinet. One that has echos of Leatherface's cutting room, in Texas Chainsaw Massacre. After performing some remedial surgery on "the pot"; Carl stripped the remaining mulchy mess using cast iron grit. Blasting, regardless of media, provides the lightly dimpled key, for primer and subsequent coats. 

This also reveals the item's true structural integrity. I recommend asking your finisher to give you a call, once they've blasted the frame (or other item). At this point, any remedial works (and their cost implications) can be discussed and, where appropriate, commissioned. 

So, with the fork given its zinc rich, epoxy primer, I had toyed with the idea of having the trailer's swing arm finished in gloss black and the trailer (sorry, ironing board) chrome silver. However, this would be adding mischief to the mix, for no good reason. 

This still received the epoxy base coat, oven cured at 150 degrees, for 15 minutes. The faint tackiness encourages better adhesion, of the colour and clear coats. Chrome silver was then applied, and returned to the curing oven for a further fifteen minutes. 

Graham advised me against touching the colour finish, since this requires an acrylic lacquer. Oils from the skin, however slight, can cause oily patches to bleed through. 

Curiously, there was no call for lacquering the forks, since the gloss black was described as particularly hardy. Besides a small fracture in the clear coat's surface (caused by a quick release "bite mark") could result in blistering and in turn, unsightly peeling.  

Given their attention to detail, and exemplary standards of workmanship, I wasn't remotely surprised (although still delighted) by the impeccable results. Rebuilding took longer than first envisaged. Thankfully I always take photos, of disassembly. 

However, I forgot to take my own advice, when it came to two plastic sleeves. These were hidden deep within the swing arm. More by luck than judgement, I managed to reinstate them correctly, first time. 

Aside from blowing some Green Oil Eco spray lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-eco-spray-lube inside the chassis, I applied liberal slatherings of Pure Bike Grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pure-bike-grease to the swing arm's plastic bushing cum bearings, which will hopefully protect and lubricate.  

Despite thorough masking, some residual specs of powder can sneak in, thus the hitch assembly required a bit of bedding in, and a shot of Green Oil ECo-Spray lube before they'd connect and release smoothly. 

Bob Elliot & Co LTD https://www.bob-elliot.co.uk/ have sent us some lovely Ravemen and Smart lights, so you'll excuse me. Time to pop them on charge, and go out to play.

Carbon Fibre Repair

I headed down to Carbon Bike Repair in Leatherhead. A fascinating visit that dispelled many of the myths surrounding composites. Not least, their capacity for successful, permanent and moreover, cost-effective repair. You can read the full feature here https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/a-visit-to-carbon-fibre-bike-repair .

I was surprised to learn that 99% of damage is repairable on a good-as-new basis and yes, that includes dropouts. Obviously, economics are a determining factor.

Basic repair starts at £80, which is viable on a set of forks blades costing £300. Not so, a set commanding £100, let alone a £35 seat post with aluminium head.

This TT frameset was involved in a particularly gruesome collision with a car. One which ultimately claimed the rider’s arm and broke the frameset into 27 pieces. A bystander had painstakingly salvaged these, placing them in a bag.  

Ultimately, Rob’s team were able to piece it (including the fork!) back together. Rigorously and meticulously tested, it is structurally sound, the rider recovered and returned to racing. Perhaps unsurprisingly, they bought a new frameset and gifted this one to CBR.

Their 2pack paintwork is of phenomenally high standard too. However, there wasn’t a safe opportunity for me to capture this being applied, on account of the paints’ cyanide components. Another reason why manufacturers/refinishers seldom offer little bottles of touch up paint these days.

Shortly afterward, I headed north to work on unrelated photographic assignments, which also coincided with Coventry’s motofest. Oh and a commercial quality TIG welder with AC/DC settings…

TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) is another welding technology that came about in the 1940s and a good alternative to oxyacetylene. It’s also credited with making aluminium and magnesium credible choices for structural works.

Much greater skill is required compared with MIG and the Arc’s intensity is also significantly higher; hence a grade 10 shield/setting and gloves are a must. However, the relatively slow, precise nature rewards with much cleaner, slag-free welds.

It can be used at any position and with the correct shielding gas, is highly suited to titanium and Cro-moly steels. Little wonder how it became so widely used in frame and component construction.

My involvement? All will be revealed another time…

Talking of TIG welded frames; having re-greased the Ilpompino’s headset and seat post, all was buttery smooth and serene. While hustling along the lanes this morning, my internal processes were shattered by a high-pitched “baaaaaaaaaaang!” This was swiftly accompanied by a shimmy; my senses screaming with alarm.

The rear tyre had rolled from the rim. Closer inspection revealed the tube wall had failed- caused by fatigue, rather than foreign object. Thankfully, fresh butyl and Lezyne Micro-floor pump https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/lezyne-micro-floor-pump spared my blushes.

The latter is capable of delivering a road credible 100psi fairly swiftly with only moderate, mere mortal effort. I limped home at 15mph with a wobbly rear hoop. That’ll be a trip to my friendly, local wheel builder tomorrow morning!

Friends Reunited

No, not the infamous and now defunct social networking site, I am of course referring to the return of Izzie, my beloved Ilpompino. Basically a cyclo-cross bike with track ends and plentiful braze-ons, it has a geared sibling known as the Kaffenback; which differed only in terms of livery and frame-ends. Some will sneer and mutter TIG welded, Taiwanese 4130 in house tubing. However, folk forget that several decades of outsourcing to the Far East has given rise to a new manufacturing order and one that isn’t likely to be reversed in our lifetime. Johnny and Joanna come lately wannabe artisans have yet to grasp what skilled craftsmen and women have long known; that there will always be demand for bespoke steel framesets and frame repair but businesses do not survive on romanticism alone.

While it’s true that steel is relatively easy to repair and refinish, contrary to clubroom oracles, many builders will not retrofit fixed ends to fusion-welded chassis due to the extensive prep time. Silver soldered and brazed types can simply heated until the donor metals soften and the ends removed. Fusion welded joints demands more involved and time-consuming surgery…
Izzie sports some owner specific quirks including these dual sided (SPD/Look) spinning pedals. These emerged from storage with a few tiny spots of corrosion on the nickel-plating but nothing that won’t vanish with a few rides. Similarly, the Brooks leather wrap absorbs road shock and has a timeless quality but requires periodic feeding to retain its supple lustre. Arguably the quirkiest of features is this Selle SMP droop snoot saddle, which delivers armchair comfort to those sensitive areas without compromising pedalling efficiency. There’s sufficient clearance for 700x38 sans guards so I could whip studded snow tyres aboard should we experience another adverse winter. Speaking of tyres, these Freedom Urban thick slicks arrived on my doorstep this week and early impressions are favourable. 25mm wide, they slip aboard the rims without tools or blood oozing from the cuticles and run at a relatively modest 110psi. Don’t be rueful of the unfamiliar name, they’re made by WTB and reckoned to be the most dependable of the genre characterised by ultra thick casings and a puncture preventative belt.With both wheels removed, it seemed the ideal opportunity to purge the hub cones and surrounding areas of congealed gloop that’s drawn to wet-lubes courtesy of Purple Harry’s bike floss. Made here in Blighty, these pipe cleaners on steroids get right into those intricate areas other brushes cannot reach. That said; they collect and can redistribute filth so inspect and replace regularly while taking care around paintwork. There’s a softer, carbon specific sibling and bigger brands are getting in on the act too… Watch this space and the Univega’s cassette cluster as winter creeps that little bit closer.
Contrary to my wet lube rule, I’ve cleaned Izzie’s Miche chain and treated it to some super dependable Squirt dry lube. Devoid of nasty petrochemicals and solvent carriers, it’s closer in consistency to an emulsion than the traditional Wax types.
Start by running the chain through the solvent bath and drying with a clean rag. Give the squirt a brief shake before drizzling it on. Common to ceramic types, it initially requires two coats, leaving five minutes in between. Don’t panic if you’ve gone a little OTT, since the excess will congeal and flake off as you ride. The first ninety-odd derailleur miles suggest it’s the most stubborn of the dry types and should be hardy enough for single-speed/fixer set ups too. Rumour suggests its quite good on control cables too… Decided to treat the Univega to a new set of Jockey wheels, these from Hawk racing to be precise. Made from 7075 series aluminium and boasting stainless steel bearings (as removed from the seemingly mandatory ceramic type) they seem to work rather nicely with the tubby tourer’s slightly quirky eight-speed configuration.

Fitting is simply a question of splitting the chain and removing the existing OEM models from the mech-keep the retaining bolts since being aftermarket, the Hawk don’t come with any. While you’re at it, put a slither of grease on the threaded sections and slot the hawk into position with the lazer etched detailing facing the hub side. Snug everything down, reinstate the chain, checking everything clicks up and down smoothly and you’re ready for the road. They’ve certainly brought the otherwise dependable shifting along several notches with a really swift, dependable change under load. Seeing as you can buy a replacement Deore Lx for around £50, these are arguably most cost efficient on the Dura Ace and Sram forces of this world.



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