Spaced Out & Salvaged

Inspired by warmer drier weather, and of course, that Holdsworth Cyclone awaiting refinishing, I’ve plucked my Holdsworth from hibernation and decided to revise the cockpit, again. My love of flared drops seems to know no bounds. This might offend traditionalists, but my bikes are built, and evolve to suit me.

That’s not to say I don’t appreciate some people’s desires to keep a classic bike’s authenticity-right down to fasteners. The Soma Highway1 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma-highway-1-handlebars are a fine set of shallow drops, but that oh-so familiar urge for tweaking was calling. Condor’s hybrid design, combining riser and drops https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma  wasn’t the most obvious choice, I’ll admit.

After some reflection, I opted for the MK1, and then decided I also fancied a change of brake lever. A quick rummage in the spares’ drawer, unearthed this solitary, orphaned Tektro R200. Seemingly superseded by the RL340, these are nicely finished Campagnolo patterns, right down to the push button Q/R.

Giving change from £25 (pr) they play nicely with dual pivots, centre pulls and cantilevers. Their RL520 cousins were designed for V brakes and compatible with, cable operated disc callipers, such as these Tektro Spyre. Light springs, decent modulation and feel.

Some folks might be a bit snooty, but both represent fantastic value for money. Oh, and if you’re really that fussed about branding,, the Tektro logo could be stripped, using a cutting compound, such as Crankalicious Mayo Jaune Intensive Frame Cleaner https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/crankalicious-mayo-jaune-intensive-  

At 145g, the solitary lever is 85g heavier than the Acor carbon TT lever, it replaces. However, I felt it a more suitable revision-knew it’d come in handy someday! I described the Soma Condor2 Shallow Drop Bars https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma-condor-2-shallow-drop-bars  as   “The bar the original Soma Condor Handlebar should’ve been”.

Generally, I stand by this statement, but the original’s lower slung tops, are a better fit with the Holdsworth. Being able to salvage the silicone handlebar tape, was another definite bonus.  In some respects, The Genetic D-Riser 16 Bars https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-d-riser-bars  might’ve been better still. However, they’re staying on my fixed gear winter/trainer, thank you.

Holdsworth makeover complete, I tweaked the Woodman Saturn Aheadset bearings, gave it a good sudsy bucket wash, then treated it to this Velo21 Blueberry Glaze wax. Despite some initial scepticism, performance and longevity are quite impressive. Aside from apparent quality, and longevity of sheen, its genuinely compatible with matt, satin and gloss finishes. Yes, including this Torus Titanium Stem https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/torus-titanium-stem

Talking of wax, I had intended to dress the chain in Zefal Pro Dry Chain Lube but picked up Zefal Extra Dry Chain Wax, by mistake. An error that only became apparent when the white emulsion began seeping into the links. Mildly annoying, but there we are. No sense starting again, so I delivered three coats and popped the bike away. Quitting while ahead is a definite virtue.  Talking of chains, I checked the Univega’s FSA using my KMC digital unit. To date, wear is nominal, but I acquired a KMC X973 grey replacement, for when the FSA needs pensioning off.  

Fixed chains don’t require the same degree of introspection, but you’d be foolish not to inspect and where appropriate, adjust tension. This was only necessary a couple of times, during the KMC Z1 X’s  lifetime. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/kmc-inox-chain  By comparison, this is the third time in 1100miles, for the Passport Elements Single Speed Anti Rust Chain https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/passport-elements-single-speed-chai .

Nonetheless, the Passport is a very reliable, relatively smooth and highly corrosion resistant option. The galvanised texture genuinely seems to retain lube better, than traditional polished/electroplated models.

While it copes well with the stresses of a fixed transmission, I’d opt for a heavy-duty track version, if like me, you only run a single, front brake. Perfect for a single speed, or hub geared bike, especially those that see year- round, four seasons; service.     

Pads, Cassetes, Cables & Chains

Winter can chomp through consumables, at an alarming rate. Pads are no exception and I’d bought replacements, knowing the time was edging closer. Fade struck, along a regularly traversed 1in7. Decision made. Pads stripped and replaced within minutes of returning home.

These patterns lasted a year, or so. Fixed relies less on mechanical braking, thus usefully extending pad and related component life. Provided you’re not living in a particularly hilly region, of course. I continue to be delighted by the Halo Fixed-G rear hub. Perfect chainline also ensures a nigh on silent transmission. Acceleration feels tangibly brisker, too. I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Tioga City Slicker tyres https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/tioga-city-slicker-tyres  

Richard Peace has been putting the Carrera cross city folding bike through its paces  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/carrera-crosscity-folding-electric-

Pad changing presented an obvious opportunity to give the bike a deeper clean, than usual.  The Velo 21 dirty weekend pre-wash did a decent job. It’s a subtle formula that doesn’t foam, or anything visually exciting. Science suggests the surfactants are doing the business. Eating into the grime, rather than just foaming on the surface.

Suffice to say, it romped through organic grot and slurry, without needing to agitate. Even petrochemical based spatter slithered away, left marinating for five minutes and then rinsed. These Soma Fabrications Condor II shallow drop bar also arrived this week, so I wasted no time fitting them.  

Elsewhere, having averted potential castration, my Univega’s cassette was resembling one of those “fat balls” supposedly breeding in our sewer systems. An obvious candidate for Velo21 degreaser.

Chain, cassette, jockey wheels and ring came up quite nicely too. Not without a fair bit of elbow grease. It’s worth noting that Stealth, is a very stoical ceramic. I’ll need to see how it works on less tenacious lubes, before passing appropriate, fair comment.

I also checked the chain’s health, using this digital chain checker. Budget analogue units are dirt cheap, accurate enough too. However, I prefer the pin-point, in a glance confirmation. Chains don’t stretch, they wear. Consign to the bin, once wear measures 0.8mm.     

Time spent undertaking regular inspections and preventative maintenance is priceless. Aside from extending the life of expensive components, I’d rather be out, enjoying the miles than fixing stuff by the road/trailside. Let alone the long walk home. 

This housekeeping also proved the ideal opportunity to fit the Easton EVA wrap and swap back to the Schwalbe Marathon Mondial https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-marathon-mondial-tyres , now the threat of ice, has greatly diminished. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/after-the-gritters-went-home

Bored with Brexit, red top tabloids have now fixated on extreme weather. Coastal flooding now tops the agenda.  

After some casual, late night trawling, I came across an Alivio rear mech, to replace the long serving Microshift M45. Crucially it was of a higher spec, and at the right price. I’ve stripped, cleaned and inspected the M45 and there’s surprisingly little slop.

I changed the cable and closer inspection revealed the SRAM chain was fit for the knackers’ yard, cassette not far behind (though thankfully, I already had an 11-28) so retired both.

Worth buying a stock of both, if you do big mileages and/or ride in harsh conditions. However, as I’ve said before, there’s a fine line between sensible stock-piling and hoarding.

Cassette lock-rings can become very stubborn, even when they’ve been given a lick of stiff grease. The 11-30 Sram was no exception, benefitting from a quick blast of penetrant spray.

11-28 tooth electroplated Sram replacement on the freehub body and lock ring greased, I torqued it to 40nms, reinstated the wheel, then cut and fitted the new chain. I ordered two, so there’s one on tap, when the chain checker chimes 0.8mm.

While the other 9spd components are in solid shape, I’ll stick to this grade of rear mech and consumables. Unless I’m presented with an interplanetary (hub gear) system, I’ll probably upgrade to ten speed. An Octalink crankset, Deore mech and Sun Race brifters seem good options. The production Alpina 506’s factory specification, was a mix of Shimano LX and XT.

At present, it’s an eclectic mix of Ultegra, Deore, 105 (equivalent) and some slightly lower end but extremely serviceable parts. Components that make it go and stop in excellent proportion. I’m a constant tinkerer, and some would say, contrary figure.  Who knows what will follow…

5W 40 The Motor Oil Challenge

Motor oil has always been cited as an alternative to bike specific wet lubes, especially during the winter months. Some swear by the 50/50 petrol diesel mix during the drier months.

Petrol’s solvent properties will race through any residual grot, leaving the diesel lubricant properties behind.

Lubes such as Finish Line 1-Step cleaner and lubricant, https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/finish-line  work to much the same principle.

These are effective enough and a better bet, if you’re mixing alchemy leaves something to be desired. Let me go one stage further. Petrochemicals are extremely flammable and potentially lethal, if not stored and administered, correctly.

DISCLAIMER: IF YOU ARE IN ANY DOUBT, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BREW YOUR OWN. PURCHASE COMMERCIALLY AVAILABLE PRODUCTS, AND FOLLOW THEIR STORAGE/APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS, TO THE LETTER.

So then, I’d been out on “the old girl” aka my rough stuff tourer, bumbling along the backroads and bridleways. Though a reasonable amount of waxy prep clung to its cassette, the chain was beginning to look a little too clean. 20 miles later, the familiar faint metal on metal tinkling was beginning to intrude.

Back home, I decided now was the time to give the bike a sudsy bucket wash and baste some Green Oil chain degreaser jelly into the drivetrain.

Now, choice of motor oil is very important. Modern synthetics employ specialist detergents. These are designed to keep the engine clean and be reconstituted within the engine’s oil pump. On a bicycle chain, these detergents will simply strip the lubricant properties. So, that familiar, faint metal-on-metal tinkling will strike-in as little as 30miles, in some instances.

Therefore, something basic, ideally 10w/40 or, as is the case here, a slightly more sophisticated (though cheap as chips) 5w/40 semi synthetic is what’s called for. I decanted a small quantity of the honey coloured lube into a dropper bottle and drizzled a drop into each link. Then any excess was purged from the side-plates, using some clean rag.  No hanging around, waiting for it to cure. Super slick, too.

My cross inspired fixed gear winter/trainer’s KMC Z1x inox chain https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/kmc-inox-chain  was also running out of waxy prep, so was also stripped. Yep, 5w/40 followed. Lube tenure on the slippery surface can be a lottery, so I’m not expecting the same Miles Per Application (MPA).

Staying with motor oils a moment, these also make an excellent basis for home brewed wax-based frame preserves. If you’re taxed for time and the frameset isn’t seeing harsh service… Adding a couple of tablespoons worth, of 10w/40 to its inner sanctum, will offer a reasonable amount of protection, against internal corrosion.

Winter bikes sporting decorative electroplate can succumb to the salt monster. My preference is for a high-quality polymer wax preserve. However, giving them a quick oily-rag once-over, will serve as a cheap and relatively effective masking agent.     

Elsewhere and with the clocks going back, I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Halo Evura/SP SL9 dynohub build https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-evura-shutter-precision-sl9-dy  and have switched my focus, to the Ugoe 2000 lumen unit and its F100 and R50 counterparts. I prefer to run two rear blinkies. Traditionally, this has been as a contingency-should one power down/fail, there is always a backup.

Strictly speaking (and according to UK law) a flashing rear light, used in isolation is fine, provided it produces at least 4candela. Personally, to remove any wriggle room (read legal loopholes) I run a steady and flashing unit together.

Up front, a high power lamp is mandatory for navigating but I always pair these with a single, flashing blinker. This serves to identify me as a cyclist (rather than moped, or similar vehicle) on the one hand. It also provides some illumination, while stationary at junctions, tackling roundabouts/similar.

In terms of numbers 15 lumens is adequate for town and suburban riding, 25-35lumens for unlit rural work, although 50odd do come in handy in particularly dark/foggy contexts.

Helmet/luggage mounting is useful, but the bike must also sport one, to comply with the law. A technicality perhaps, if you are illuminated like the proverbial Christmas tree on acid. Alas, one readily exploited by a solicitor, in court...

Pit Stops & Component Swaps

Things come in threes. A pronounced lack of braking prowess was traced to a tainted disc-easy purged using a solvent wipe, then my fixed gear winter/trainer’s rear Schwalbe Marathon succumbed a phantom flat.

I decided, wheel out, that this was also time to replace the otherwise likeable KMC X1 with a budget relative-the B1. This is a 112 link nickel plated model, which seems relatively smooth and looks reasonably durable for now. Will look towards a heavy duty, half-link design next time round.

The less slippery plating will hopefully ensure lube will remain within the rollers, rather than migrating to the side plates.  Since the forecast is unseasonably mild, I’ve gone for some Squirt wax lube. Well, it’s closer to an emulsion, the sort that collects contaminant, then flakes off, leaving a filmy, low friction layer behind.

Talking of layers, I’ve reached a firm conclusion re the Crankalicious crisp frame  wax https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/crankalicious-crisp-frame-wax  

Since winter is hard on everything and consumables, can get gobbled at an alarming rate, I’ve acquired a set of Spyre pattern pads. Sods (Murphey’s if we’re being pedantic) law dictates that the OEM pads will suddenly wear to their minimum, just when I’ve none in!  I’ve also renewed the front Jagwire cable in favour of the Jagwire Pro-Road, since the existing set up, though very efficient was showing signs of fraying.

Serendipity had brought this BBB flex ribbon bar wrap to my doorstep. This is a gel impregnated polyurethane, designed to insulate against vibration, while providing excellent grip. The green was pot luck, chosen by windwave, their UK importer but coordinates surprisingly well with the Upso Stirling https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/upso-stirling-seat-pack , blue/grey livery and of course, the celeste cable.

The coming months will confirm how good the flex ribbon, especially compared with polymers and silicones https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-silicone-bar-wrap . The former, though very good in terms of comfort and grip, are trickier to care for. For example, scrubbing them with a medium stiff brush dipped in a sudsy bucket is a no-no. Assuming of course, you didn’t want to strip the clever coating.    

Reminds me, my MK1 KA’s discs are running a little thin but I’m assured by my friendly local garage that they’re good until the next service. Hub transmissions have always appealed on a similarly sleek, low maintenance basis. I’ve been particularly impressed with Shimano’s Alfine, or the iconic Rohloff.  

Talking of which, this Thorn Raven, Rohloff specific frameset arrived for makeover at Maldon shot blasting & powder coating the other week. This one is TIG welded in Taiwan and to a very high standard, whereas those built by Lee Cooper http://leecoopercycles.webs.com/  were impeccably fillet brazed.   

Staying with bespoke, I’ve done 200miles on John Moss’s wheel build and am really impressed both with the spec and his skill. The Halo white line rim, is a 24mm wide “general purpose model”; designed with gravel, touring and similar duties in mind.

The double wall, box section T10 heat treated, low profile aluminium alloy construction, stainless steel eyelets are the hallmarks of a strong, reliable wheel. Given the spec and brief, Jordan at Ison distribution www.ison-distribution.com  (who also import the Shutter precision hubs) recommended a three cross lace up, which resonates with John’s default, wheel building pattern.

The Shutter precision PD8 disc brake hub is available in a wealth of colours, although considerably smaller in size, compared with more traditional hub dynamos. Inside the compact shell, it’s a 6v 3w output. An ultra-reliable hollow cro-moly axle turns on sealed cartridge bearings.

Turning the hub by hand, there’s some obvious resistance but it’s still pretty unobtrusive and certainly less than I’ve noticed with Shimano’s Ultegra. This remains so, when wired up to a lamp and on the road. A skewer isn’t supplied but in this instance I’ve gone for the Ultegra’s since my Univega sports a Kryptonite locking model, to prevent opportunist pilfering.

Theft of expensive components has become an increasingly prolific problem. That’s not to say, thieves who haven’t been able to foil locks, or cut through street furniture, have come away empty handed but there is a trend for targeting bars stems, forks etc.

Not just in the seamier areas either, although slum neighbourhoods are a bad bet at any time of the day. One option is to have your name, or similar distinguishing marks etched into the component surface. Fine if you didn’t want to sell, or trade them on at a later stage.

Arguably, you wouldn’t put “desirable” higher end contact points on a working bike. Nonetheless, if it’s pretty and non-descript an opportunist with a set of Allen keys may well indulge.  Aftermarket fasteners with unique keys are arguably the most secure option but not so good, if you’re prone to losing stuff. If you are going this route, make sure surfaces don’t provide purchase for pliers and other, simple brute force removal techniques.