No Messing....

  

No sooner had I uttered something about not changing Denise's specification, Oxford Products sent me their Aqua Evo Adventure Daytripper pack. At 3.5 litres, it’s over twice the size of the Cycology and Topeak models I’ve tested recently, which is on some levels, a departure from my minimalist narrative.

At 329g its relatively lightweight and enjoys a maximum 2 kilo payload. It’s made from 400 denier rip-stop TPU. Welded seams and waterproof zippers. Internally, it features a dedicated tool and phone compartment, keeping these silently segregated from each other and other things you might want to dip in for. There’s a cargo net at the front for capturing overspill and the sensibly proportioned zipper tag promises easy access mid-ride too.   

  

As with other models that tether to the head tube, you’ll want to apply some helicopter tape to prevent wear-through (especially when mud and water are thrown into the equation). This goes for any other luggage that rests against the frame. I’m fond of those using Klick-Fix type brackets. On the one hand, they occupy a bit more real estate, but they also hold the bag out further, so they won’t foul head tubes, cables etc. Topeak’s Compact Bar Bag and Tour Bag are good examples.  

 

The compact version is most likely to appeal to photographers looking to carry a compact system camera, or SLR on tour, or day trip.  The bigger, 5 litre model will swallow a camera body two lenses and a fair bit more.  I always carry a 20mpxl super zoom compact camera in a jacket, or jersey pocket to capture things mid ride, but CSC are superior options if you’re looking for optimal resolution.  

 

Talking of jerseys, here’s my review of the Castelli Espresso Castelli Espresso Jersey | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) However, CSC and SLR need proper storage. Never pop cameras or sensitive electricals in a rack top bag, even the generously padded type, such as this Topeak MTXTopeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) since low-level vibration will prove ruinous. 

  

Elsewhere, the weather had been decidedly wet and mucky, which have been a little tedious in some respects. It was so wet that I’d gone from the FLR mountain bike shoes to the Shimano MW501 Dry Shield SPD MTB Shoes Shimano MW501 Dry Shield SPD MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) a lightweight, packable jacket such as this Leatt Jacket MTB Endurance Leatt Jacket MTB Endurance 2.0 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and over to the Madison Roam 2.5 Layer Waterproof Jacket Madison Roam 2.5 Layer Waterproof Jacket | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which, some small points aside, is a nice fit for gravel, mtb and commuting duties thanks to the hood, hip pockets and tasteful colours. Waterproofing and breathability are 10,000mm apiece, so not quite on par with more expensive models, but pretty good, in the everyday sense.   

  

Having checked the Tiagra’s maximum capacity, I’ve decided I’ll take Denise the 11-28 cassette route, when the chain wears out, giving a rough range of 31-79 inches. The SS is designed for 2x10, whereas the GS is intended for triple setups, in case anyone wasn’t aware, or were simply curious.  

 

Talking curious, I’ve decided to switch Denise’s Wellgo MO94B pedals WELLGO MO94B SPD PEDALS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) in favour of the Shimano PD ED 500 Shimano PD ED 500 Pedals | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Not the most obvious choice and given the frame’s heritage, the first generation of SPD would’ve been aesthetically a more obvious, period sensitive fit. I may well go this route later down the line.  

 

Grateful for having options. I decided now was time to replace the rear inner brake cable, since I was convinced a kink, or similar was impairing the Suntour SE cantilevers’ function slightly- I needed to re-wrap the T-One bar tape in any case, since it had slipped a bit over the first few weeks.  

 

I made some time to remove Ursula’s Stronglight Aheadset and Van Nicholas VNT Ceramic Bottom Bracket, giving Ursula a good, deep clean ready to be boxed up and sent to Winston Vaz in July. The latter was liberally greased, so released effortlessly and the Stronglight’s cups popped out with a few deft taps of a mallet and my Kinesis fork steerer tube drift.  

Aside from some minor flaking of the cream powder coat, the frame is generally in good shape. Another little job off the list. I’ll treat the headset, bottom bracket, and drivetrain components to a tour de parts washer in due course. I also took the plunge and invested in a “proper” cup removal tool, since one was going for £20.  

The Kinesis fork steerer is a much safer drift than the long flat bladed screwdriver bodge, especially with aluminium alloy cups, but not ideal. I’ve also been thinking in terms of acquiring workshop-quality chain rivet pliers, mainly for breaking and rejoining track chains. These days I buy derailleur chains pre-cut and, in the instances, where I may need to prune one, this Topeak, or indeed, a multi-tool model will suffice.  

Money For Old Rope?

 

It has been suggested by some that gravel is little more than repackaged 90s cross country mountain biking. As a means of starting debate, it’s a good opening line. I disagree. Any sweeping statement is by definition inaccurate. As with any other genre of riding, gravel will mean different things to different people. 

I removed the Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag Topeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and gave the DX rack a clean. Some grittiness had made inroads into the centre channel’s powder coated finish and there was some fastener taint. Both easily remedied with a drop of chain lube and some Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com). Lastly, I switched the Ergon All Road and Ritchey saddles around. Both have proven good choices for me, but I was keen to see how well the Ergon performed with Denise along rougher roads and trails. 

I would argue gravel is an evolution of cyclo cross, which started with models such as Specialized’s Tri Cross. Cyclo cross bikes with daily driver friendly features such as mudguard and carrier mounts, several bottle bosses and wider gearing. Running in parallel, we had the adventure bike, which were tour friendly cyclo cross bikes with longer wheelbases, bigger clearances and tour-friendly geometry, disc brakes, braze ons and a hint of MTB DNA. 

  

For me, gravel is the lovechild of adventure tourer and thoroughbred cyclo cross bike with some XC mountain bike DNA for good measure. Some more, some less. Some competition models are closer to pared to the essential's cross builds with bigger clearances and hydraulic stoppers. Though very capable, they’re a little too prescriptive for my riding needs/tastes. I’m also very fond of the suspension tech evolution-seat posts and stems, specifically but feel that a fully blown suspension for is, for me, pushing things too close to full blown mountain biking.   

 

In its purist sense, the internet is a fantastic resource (allowing of course, for the mine of mis and disinformation). It allows us to experience and share skills and information at lighting pace and in our own time. Since my early teens., I have always been fascinated by manufacturing processes.  

 

Frame building and enamelling/paint being the most obvious. Yes, these were the starting points- I’d needed a frame built/repaired and/or refinished by a skilled and sympathetic workshop, but it extended to other areas- an interest in building my own touring trailers along the lines of Bob Yak. During these years, aside from some welding and unrelated professional courses, much of my formal learning was academic. 

  

I have always held a desire to learn wet spray refinishing along with powder coating, if only for my own projects and amusements. Having finished listening to You Tube stories while drafting copy, You Tube waved some interesting channels and gravel cycling in particular. Paul Brodie’s  Painting my GRAVEL BIKE // Paul Brodie's Shop (youtube.com) 

 

channel where he discusses his latest gravel build and disc mount, before showing the start to finish wet spray. He’d gone for an orange and spatter effect. I was sat there transfixed as the grey primer tubes came to life in a bold orange. 

  

I’d seen this before obviously, and it’s never lost its magic. As with so many things, a skilled person makes it look effortless. I watched Mario Vaz in his paint shop and marvelled as the paint magically stopped at certain points.  

 

During our conversation, he reflected and said one of the things he really enjoyed about paintwork and stoving enamels in particular, was that every colour is different to work with. Aside from the obvious satisfaction in being able to undertake the work to a high standard, there’s the other long-standing narrative about me not wanting to be reliant on or beholden to anyone else. At least no more than is strictly necessary. 

 

I’d been contemplating the fixed gear winter/trainer’s gearing and chain tension. The Pirelli Angel DT’s flat was another tiny sharp that had grazed the tube, hence the slow pressure loss. An easy fix, but given the bike is now more road-biased, I went for a 28mm Schwalbe One 365, which gives a gear ratio of 70.7 inches, greater clearance and a more responsive ride. 

Changing chain tugs, for some nicely made, long-serving Genetic and opting for a previously cut, but unused KMC S1 proved the cure. It also presented an opportunity to check the rear Halo sprocket's health. Fixed drivetrains are simple but take a lot of stress-especially if you, like me, don’t run a rear brake. Replace chains regularly and get the tension right to prevent reduced efficiency and accelerated drivetrain wear. Talking of drivetrains, I'll end here with Steve's review of Blub Bio Degreaser Blub Bio Degreaser | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)