Finishing Touches & Minor Frustrations

So, having awoken the Holdsworth from its Seasonal slumber, it would be rude not to ride it.  Through the Soma Condor might look a little curious, from certain angles, they and the Tektro R200 are proving a hit with me. Something I wasn’t complexly sure would be the case.

During our maiden blast, I was somewhat perturbed to discover the Apeman A80 Action cam https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/apeman  mount imploding at 23mph. Thankfully, I averted its loss and our mutual collision with terra-firma. Action cam safely stuffed in jersey pocket, I continued to assess the most recent mods, while sporting a massive grin.

Back home, rummaging through a brackets box, I uncovered this K-Edge Go-Pro mount. Thankfully, the Apeman casing was plug n’ play compatible. No all Go Pro homages are. Once upon a time, I only considered action cams a means of capturing the sights n’ sounds of a ride. The past few years have seen me deploy them, to record driver aggression. Unfortunately, the housing fractured, almost

64 years young, those plain gauge 531 tubes still deliver a responsive, and refreshingly compliant ride. Obviously, carbon blades and a titanium stem help in that regard, while keeping the weight down.

The Condor have brought the cockpit a little closer, so I slid the BBB Razer saddle back a few millimetres to offset this. However, I’ll leave it 100 miles before reaching for an Allen key. Unless of course, the post cradle bolt should loosen.  

Elsewhere, I dropped by Maldon Shot Blasting & Powder Coating. Part social, part features cum favour based. Work had begun on the Holdsworth Cyclone frameset. Blasting revealed a pin dent, minor pitting and corrosion. This is not unexpected, given the frame’s age.

Much of this was evident where electroplating and paint overlapped. I fully appreciate why the owner wanted to preserve the original electroplating. However, getting paint to adhere successfully is a challenge. Even the most experienced paint shops struggle.

Acid etch primers were the most successful default, but even they lose tenure eventually.  The colour coats will be water-based, sealed under a polyester (powder coat) lacquer. In common with cellulose paints, water-based paints can be built up to produce a phenomenally deep, glossy sheen.

Hence their adoption by many prestige car manufacturers. These are usually sealed under a 2K lacquer. For durability and adhesion, Chris has treated the cyclone, to a zinc rich epoxy powder coat primer.

With the head tube masked, the wet spray colour coats can commence. These will be topped off with a clear, polyester powder lacquer. Arguably powder coated acrylics offer the best aesthetic but polyester has the edge, where outright durability’s concerned.

Staying with sealants and lacquers a moment, while semi-permanent lacquers, such as Crankalicious Enduro Frame Sealant https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/crankalicious-enduro-frame-sealant-  aren’t designed to defend pricey paintwork from dings, scratches and similar damage, they do offer a useful protectant barrier.

The sort that resists road salt, oily spatter and makes the bike easier to clean. My one lament concerning my Univega’s otherwise excellent cream finish, is its tendency to show every oily finger mark. No matter how thoroughly I wax it. Well, I’m pleased to report sealants have saved the day.

Fenwick’s Professional Protective Coating has proved extremely effective. Compatible with gloss, matt and satin finishes, it’s a water-based formula that you work into clean dry surfaces. Buff to ashine and ideally, leave curing eight hours. This ensures it won’t transfer to hands, or other, unwanted regions of the bike’s anatomy.

Fenwick’s reckon a single application will last up to 6 months. A bit early to comment one way, or the other. Nonetheless, the invisible, slippery layer is more apparent than most and crucially, it seems to be keeping “Ursula” clean, in much the same fashion, a traditional, permanent lacquer would.

Spaced Out & Salvaged

Inspired by warmer drier weather, and of course, that Holdsworth Cyclone awaiting refinishing, I’ve plucked my Holdsworth from hibernation and decided to revise the cockpit, again. My love of flared drops seems to know no bounds. This might offend traditionalists, but my bikes are built, and evolve to suit me.

That’s not to say I don’t appreciate some people’s desires to keep a classic bike’s authenticity-right down to fasteners. The Soma Highway1 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma-highway-1-handlebars are a fine set of shallow drops, but that oh-so familiar urge for tweaking was calling. Condor’s hybrid design, combining riser and drops https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma  wasn’t the most obvious choice, I’ll admit.

After some reflection, I opted for the MK1, and then decided I also fancied a change of brake lever. A quick rummage in the spares’ drawer, unearthed this solitary, orphaned Tektro R200. Seemingly superseded by the RL340, these are nicely finished Campagnolo patterns, right down to the push button Q/R.

Giving change from £25 (pr) they play nicely with dual pivots, centre pulls and cantilevers. Their RL520 cousins were designed for V brakes and compatible with, cable operated disc callipers, such as these Tektro Spyre. Light springs, decent modulation and feel.

Some folks might be a bit snooty, but both represent fantastic value for money. Oh, and if you’re really that fussed about branding,, the Tektro logo could be stripped, using a cutting compound, such as Crankalicious Mayo Jaune Intensive Frame Cleaner https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/crankalicious-mayo-jaune-intensive-  

At 145g, the solitary lever is 85g heavier than the Acor carbon TT lever, it replaces. However, I felt it a more suitable revision-knew it’d come in handy someday! I described the Soma Condor2 Shallow Drop Bars https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma-condor-2-shallow-drop-bars  as   “The bar the original Soma Condor Handlebar should’ve been”.

Generally, I stand by this statement, but the original’s lower slung tops, are a better fit with the Holdsworth. Being able to salvage the silicone handlebar tape, was another definite bonus.  In some respects, The Genetic D-Riser 16 Bars https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-d-riser-bars  might’ve been better still. However, they’re staying on my fixed gear winter/trainer, thank you.

Holdsworth makeover complete, I tweaked the Woodman Saturn Aheadset bearings, gave it a good sudsy bucket wash, then treated it to this Velo21 Blueberry Glaze wax. Despite some initial scepticism, performance and longevity are quite impressive. Aside from apparent quality, and longevity of sheen, its genuinely compatible with matt, satin and gloss finishes. Yes, including this Torus Titanium Stem https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/torus-titanium-stem

Talking of wax, I had intended to dress the chain in Zefal Pro Dry Chain Lube but picked up Zefal Extra Dry Chain Wax, by mistake. An error that only became apparent when the white emulsion began seeping into the links. Mildly annoying, but there we are. No sense starting again, so I delivered three coats and popped the bike away. Quitting while ahead is a definite virtue.  Talking of chains, I checked the Univega’s FSA using my KMC digital unit. To date, wear is nominal, but I acquired a KMC X973 grey replacement, for when the FSA needs pensioning off.  

Fixed chains don’t require the same degree of introspection, but you’d be foolish not to inspect and where appropriate, adjust tension. This was only necessary a couple of times, during the KMC Z1 X’s  lifetime. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/kmc-inox-chain  By comparison, this is the third time in 1100miles, for the Passport Elements Single Speed Anti Rust Chain https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/passport-elements-single-speed-chai .

Nonetheless, the Passport is a very reliable, relatively smooth and highly corrosion resistant option. The galvanised texture genuinely seems to retain lube better, than traditional polished/electroplated models.

While it copes well with the stresses of a fixed transmission, I’d opt for a heavy-duty track version, if like me, you only run a single, front brake. Perfect for a single speed, or hub geared bike, especially those that see year- round, four seasons; service.     

Wax On...Wax Off

500 miles in, I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Zefal high Performance Ultra Dry Wax Lube and moved on to its dry sibling. Though most of the wax had flaked from the chain, the rollers still sported a thin filmy layer of lubricant. Look a little closer, and the side-plates also retain a waxy glaze.

This; coupled with the more arid, warmer conditions prompted a switch to Zefal Pro Dry Chain Lube. A solvent soaked rag stripped the remnants, Piranha-fashion. Then I noticed the gungy build up clinging to the derailleur’s top jockey wheel…Remember what our elders said about washing behind our ears…A bit more solvent, and most of the mushy, congealed wax fell away in satisfying clumps.

Leaving the solvent to evaporate, I turned my attention to the Pro Dry bottle, giving it a gentle shake, noting the petrochemical formula’s warning notices. The usual precautions-keep away from aquatic life, don’t drink etc but nothing about curing times…

Popping the spout, its clear elixir literally roared into the chain’s inner sanctum (not totally unexpected, I’d had said rag hovering beneath, ready for the over-spill). Most was easily reclaimed, redistributed to the chain, cleat mechanisms, control cables etc. I left this curing for another twenty minutes, while giving the tubby tourer a once-over, before locking it away.

As I’d expected, some water marks and spatter were appearing in the thin layer of Muc-Off Silicone Shine, applied the other week. However, this was easily dismissed with a clean, lint free cloth, while still leaving some of the slippery sheen behind.

The internet has opened a whole new portal of possibilities, revolutionised the way (and indeed, speed) we communicate. However, like many technologies, it can empower, or enslave. It can also expose us to energy sapping timewasters, and blind alleys.

Several factories in the Far East reached out to me, in the context of titanium forks but with breathtakingly unfavourable terms. So, I declined, and adjusted my focus. Watch this space.

I’ve also noticed a small but solid community of people converting steel MTBs (90s, rigid forks and even the odd quill stem) to drop bar “Gravel” builds. In many respects, they make better rough stuff/commu-tourers and gravel bikes, than ‘cross conversions.

Front mech and other compatibility considerations aside, unless you are a smaller/junior rider, main triangle clearances make shouldering the bike, through rougher sections less convenient.

A gravel specific build will be more lithe, lighter and possibly have an edge, speed wise. Nonetheless, its’ not difficult to appreciate how older, rigid cross-country mtbs make excellent starting points.  Big clearances, lofty bottom bracket heights and sensible geometry…

However, it’s important to calculate the cost of such conversions and consider component choice carefully. Otherwise what can be very straightforward, and inexpensive, can evolve into a heat-sink, gobbling time, energy and financial resources.  Staying with Gravel/Cross etc, I reached my conclusions regarding the Acros Silicone Wrap Bar Tape https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/acros-silicone-wrap-handlebar-tape  and Steve’s been living with Oxford Performance Bar Tape. Another Silicone blend, but one giving a decent amount of change from £20. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-performance-bar-tape  . Oh, and if you are looking towards an action cam, but are a bit low on your dough…Perhaps the Apeman A80 4K Action Camera will suit https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/apeman  

On a completely different note, I spotted what I believe to be a Holdsworth Cyclone frameset, awaiting refinishing. Though the enamel is looking weary, the electroplating looks almost factory fresh. Save perhaps for some tiny indentations.

It’s going to be refinished with water-based, wet spray paint, topped off with a polyester powder coat lacquer. I’m unsure about the year. The Cyclone was a tremendously long-lived model, running in different guises from 1934 right up to 1976.

I’m guessing late 50’s, maybe early 60s, built using plain gauge Reynolds 531 (Like my Holdsworth Zephyr). Would be interesting to know more about this specific frameset’s history. Please get in touch, if it belongs/belonged to you.     

Ben Hur

 Life is continuously changing, evolving and thus we must adapt, accordingly. Bike Journalism/Kit testing aside, I am a fettler. My two-wheeled fleet is, to some extent always evolving. Not for change’s sake, or to fill a void in my life, rather ‘cos stuff wears out, or in some instances, breaks.

On other occasions, I ruminate on something, explore a few options, THEN decide on the solution(s). This avoids consumption of resources. Money, time, energy/labour and of course, storage.

To some extent, bikes are like relationships, as we mature and (hopefully) gain greater self-awareness, we understand what works for us. I am deeply attached to the Holdsworth and Teenage Dream. However, for general, everyday riding, something with ‘cross type geometry, clearances and indeed, big tyres, is my preference.

Life and people are here to teach us lessons, it is up to us, whether we heed, and learn from them. There are a wealth of people/personalities I navigate on a professional and personal basis. I am pleasantly indifferent to most, deeply attached to a few. There are people with enormous amounts to offer, but nothing good/right for me.

Another narrative, which has endured from my teens, is user-serviceability. Anything I own must be relatively straightforward to maintain properly, and to the highest standards. This also goes for cars, and motorcycles. Back then, the ability to braze/frame build was high on the list.

However, opportunity/finances never presented, and I’ve long recognised it’s a skill best outsourced to those with years of experience. I like welding. A semi-commercial MIG welder capable of taking commercial Argon/CO2 cylinders would be a sensible investment for light fabrication, repair etc.

Fully equipped workshops with TIG welders. Oxyacetylene, Jigs etc are not. A week’s frame building course, does not a master craftsperson, make “Building by numbers” is one thing, being able to problem solve and deliver impeccable results is something entirely different.

To paraphrase my late Grandfather (40 years welding experience, 6year apprentice trained) “Any fool can blast metal together. Making something stick, and moreover behave according to draft, is something entirely different.”  

I do share his somewhat surly and difficult charm, although would like to think I’m more moderate, dare I say agreeable, overall. Contexts established, I leave frame building/modification/repair to the likes of Lee Cooper, and Maldon Shot Blasting & Powder Coating. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/gravel-bike-on-a-budget 

So, with all this in mind. I was overtaken by one of THOSE urges. Pandora’s box sprung open and with it, the yearning for Titanium…Forks. Yes, for Ursula…Not that there’s anything particularly wrong with the existing “school chair” setup, with its beefy legs.

That said; they were aimed at the “Jump” market, so there’s a weight penalty, relative to the original triple butted uncrown, or something like Kona’s iconic Project II. A Chinese manufacturer got in touch, offering me a set with disc, cantilever and mudguard eyelets. £450 was an absolute deal-breaker. If something comes along, at the right price and specification, I’ll take a closer look.  

Elsewhere, I’ve resurrected my Revolution Cargo Trailer (Bob Yak homage) from hibernation. Its primarily been used, not for shopping/utilitarian purposes, but rather assessing the laden handling prowess of test bikes. It needed a good polish, which proved the perfect opportunity to test this Muc-Off Cherry Pop Silicone shine (I also took this opportunity to treat the Univega).

Silicones certainly add shine-especially to plastics. They also add lubricant to polymers/rubberised components, which is good for suspension components. However, unless used sparingly, silicones can also prove dirt traps. To assess this, I delivered ours directly to the trailer chassis, tourer via micro-fibre cloth.

For the time being, said trailer can follow behind my beloved tubby tourer, hauling various weights, to scrutinise gearing more critically-now the honeymoon period’s done. I have a few minor niggles with the Yak homage.

Firstly, the finish isn’t particularly good. Its not poor, rather softer than I’d expect. Once it gets tatty, I’ll get it blasted and powder coated. Similarly, though the wheel is identified as being 16x1.75, offer a branded slick/road version against it, and, nope.

Since its functional enough, I’ve decided to whip out the valve core and introduce some latex type, puncture sealing splooge. Aside from the obvious, I needed to use it up, and this seemed the obvious candidate.

Letting the bike do the lugging, is a golden rule of touring and longer commutes. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/tug-jobs However, depending on your payload, for shorter hauls, rider mounted luggage can be a boon, especially filtering through tighter gaps in traffic. Well-made messenger bags are old boots tough, (usually) weatherproof and ooze cool. Little surprise they’re so popular.

Statistically, many car journeys are less than 2.5 miles. Between this and 5 miles or so, messenger bags have a ln their favour. My Chrome Industries (model) is still serving me well, and Steve’s been putting this Chrome Modal Vale Sling Bag through its paces  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/chrome  .

He’s been similarly impressed with this Carradice Kelbrook Satchel, which is made here, in the UK  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/carradice-kelbrook-satchel