Trailer & Transmission Fettling

Well, I've made time to strip the TW Bents Yak homage trailer, ready for some modifying and makeover magic. Disassembly was remarkably straightforward. Once I 'd worked out how the press fitted bushing/bearings were instated. 

I prefer the single wheel designs, since they track with the bike's movement but all systems have their pros, and indeed cons. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/tug-jobs 

It was a welcome surprise to discover they'd been treated to some plastic-friendly grease, which assisted their, undamaged extraction. Only modest amounts of controlled force and primal grunting ensued.

Formative discussions with Maldon Shot Blasting & Powder Coating erred toward a chrome effect swing arm, top rail and either a buttermilk (Interpon 610) or  gloss black base/frame. The chrome effect providing some reflective safety, the gloss black timeless, and easy to touch up, as required.  

However, I've since decided that chrome throughout, is the best option.

Keeps things uniform and is arguably the most efficient use of time and other resources.  

Chris was doing some more wet spray work, this time on what appears to be an old De Rosa, and this carbon fork, which will be matt blue, once the lacquer is applied. 

Seems  good quality. mass-produced (26 inch mtb) forks are now rarer than hen's teeth. Given my Univega's design brief, Carbon's a non-starter. A bespoke steel set, was another option. Disc and canti, mudguard and front rack mounts... 

However, while I'm a firm believer in paying skilled people appropriately, there had to be another option. Especially since I was only looking to save a few grams...Lo and behold!  

While rummaging through my spares stash, seeking inspiration, I rediscovered it's original pair. 

The original flamboyant red enamel was showing some cosmetic damage. 

Otherwise, not rot or other nastiness. Crown race liberated, Graham has kindly agreed to blast and refinish them, in gloss black powder coat. Note to self. Mus remind them to soak in methyl chloride tank, as they've been Waxoyled.  Be interesting to see, if  these also sport a nickel plated layer beneath the paint... https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/after-the-gritters-went-home 

Too much Mad Max, at an impressionable age, perhaps but  I have a quiet appreciation of matt black, and indeed other, slightly distressed effects. Nonetheless, gloss and satins rule my roost. 

A curious rattle, experienced when traversing washboard tarmac suggested my fixed gear winter/trainer's chain needed tensioning again. Closer inspection revealed it was the Halo Fix G Track hub's https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-fixed cassette style lockring. I was surprised by just how loose it was. Note to self! Check more frequently! 

Wheel out, tool in, 40nm torque-sorted. Presented the ideal opportunity to instate the threaded side's cover, along with a light lick of grease. Keeps things looking sleek, and sheltered from grot. I also decided to swap to a Sram chain, since I was about it. 

Nothing wrong with the Passport Elements Single Speed Chain https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/passport-elements-single-speed-chai  whatsoever. However, my long term experience suggests it's best for single-speed and hub geared, rather than fixed builds forgoing a rear brake. Especially, if you live/ride in hillier regions.  For many, simplicity is fixed's main draw. 

However, its important to remember the stresses placed upon a fixed setup, doesn't permit sloppy maintenance. For me cheap chain, hubs and sprockets are false economy. I'd still be inclined towards a 1/8th chain- even on 3/32 sprockets.

Despite the persistent, showery conditions I'm still running the Zefal Pro-Dry Chain Lube. Love the low friction, serene swoosh and indeed, its penetrant qualities. It literally seeps into the chain's inner sanctum, which made removing the joining pins, a breeze. 

Not quite so clean-at least compared with long cure, barely there ceramics, including Weldtite TF2 Ultra Dry Chain Wax https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/weldtite-tf2-ultra-dry-chain-wax ; or indeed Rock n' Roll Absolute Dry Chain Lube https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/rock-n-roll-absolute-dry-chain-lubr 

The SRAM does seem a bit meatier, although I'll keep the Passport. According to my digital gauge, it's only a quarter worn, and could still come in handy... Muc-Off sent us some interesting samples of their lubes and polishes, this week. Well, keeps me out of mischief.... 

  

Reflections in The Rain

So, the Holdsworth’s returned hibernation due to torrential rains and semi-flooded roads. Gives me chance to acquire a replacement Apeman housing. Talking bars, I reached my verdict on the Velo Orange Handlebar Accessory Mount. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/velo-orange-handlebar-accessory-mou  

Defaulted to my fixed gear winter/trainer, early season training kit, and wet lube. Mildly temperamental cleat engagement promoted some introspection, and ultimately replacement of the left. I’d had a part-worn spare (in much better shape) bouncing around a small parts tin. Bolted in situ, harmony restored.

Patterns are generally very accurate. Some will argue this is because many are made in the same factories, and simply re-branded. Maybe so. However, having mixed n’ matched VP, Wellgo, XTC, Exustar, (and pretty much every SPD pattern I could get my feet in, these past 25 years) I’ve concluded Shimano cleats are machined to marginally tighter tolerances.

Placed aside each other, these ISSI cleats have a ledge, whereas the Shimano are flat. Interestingly, the Shimano engage and release faster than the dedicated ISSI (which, in fairness, work harmoniously with the brands discussed).

As with cameras, there’s a sound economic, and practical argument for running one, or two systems. I ran Look on my road bikes, SPD on my mtbs for several years (rather like running wet lubes during winter, dry during summer).

However, the latter system’s convenience- the ability to walk, rather than hobble (and gouging expensive flooring) through the house, or when navigating slippery surfaces etc, saw their wholesale adoption. Holdsworth & Teenage Dream, run Time, SPD for Univega and of course, fixed gear winter/trainer.

I prefer dual sided systems, especially riding fixed, since you can simply clip in, and power away. However, some single-sided designs, including these Wellgo are weighted, which means the pedal “presents” the cleat mechanism, so less faff.

This; coupled with their smaller surface area has proven a winning combo on my tubby tourer.  I’ve also run a set of Time All Road Gripper Pedals, to good effect. They were a hybrid design- cleat mechanism one side, rubberised platform, on the other.

They’ve been gone from the French marque’s range for several years, and pricey for working bikes, relative to dual sided SPD patterns. 

My only minor gripe, with Time’s otherwise brilliant ATAC, is the use of brass cleats. The softer metal wears faster, and replacements are expensive, relative to the ubiquitous SPD.      

Stating the obvious perhaps, but this soggy spell has been perfect, for testing wet lubes (although I also like putting dry formulas against the elements. If only to see how they’ll cope when an arid ride turns unexpectedly soggy). 

Talking of which, despite looking slightly thirsty, touching my fixed’s chain revealed a stoical black, lubricant layer. I’ve since cruised past the 300-mile mark, before this became a faint, filmy state. 

So, since I was adjusting the chain tension… Out came the Zefal Pro Dry Chain Lube. An odd choice some would argue. Afterall, these are specifically designed for tinderbox dry conditions.

However, the UK is, apparently on the cusp of high pressure and blue skies. Is the Pro Dry going to be of the old school, i.e. washed away come the first hint of drizzle? Only real-world miles will tell.  

Several months in, I’m pleased to report that the Velo21 Ultimate Paintwork Protection https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/velo-21 has lived up to its hype. In a nutshell, its compatible with matt, satin and gloss finishes, a little goes a long way, and results are lasting.

Finishing Touches & Minor Frustrations

So, having awoken the Holdsworth from its Seasonal slumber, it would be rude not to ride it.  Through the Soma Condor might look a little curious, from certain angles, they and the Tektro R200 are proving a hit with me. Something I wasn’t complexly sure would be the case.

During our maiden blast, I was somewhat perturbed to discover the Apeman A80 Action cam https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/apeman  mount imploding at 23mph. Thankfully, I averted its loss and our mutual collision with terra-firma. Action cam safely stuffed in jersey pocket, I continued to assess the most recent mods, while sporting a massive grin.

Back home, rummaging through a brackets box, I uncovered this K-Edge Go-Pro mount. Thankfully, the Apeman casing was plug n’ play compatible. No all Go Pro homages are. Once upon a time, I only considered action cams a means of capturing the sights n’ sounds of a ride. The past few years have seen me deploy them, to record driver aggression. Unfortunately, the housing fractured, almost

64 years young, those plain gauge 531 tubes still deliver a responsive, and refreshingly compliant ride. Obviously, carbon blades and a titanium stem help in that regard, while keeping the weight down.

The Condor have brought the cockpit a little closer, so I slid the BBB Razer saddle back a few millimetres to offset this. However, I’ll leave it 100 miles before reaching for an Allen key. Unless of course, the post cradle bolt should loosen.  

Elsewhere, I dropped by Maldon Shot Blasting & Powder Coating. Part social, part features cum favour based. Work had begun on the Holdsworth Cyclone frameset. Blasting revealed a pin dent, minor pitting and corrosion. This is not unexpected, given the frame’s age.

Much of this was evident where electroplating and paint overlapped. I fully appreciate why the owner wanted to preserve the original electroplating. However, getting paint to adhere successfully is a challenge. Even the most experienced paint shops struggle.

Acid etch primers were the most successful default, but even they lose tenure eventually.  The colour coats will be water-based, sealed under a polyester (powder coat) lacquer. In common with cellulose paints, water-based paints can be built up to produce a phenomenally deep, glossy sheen.

Hence their adoption by many prestige car manufacturers. These are usually sealed under a 2K lacquer. For durability and adhesion, Chris has treated the cyclone, to a zinc rich epoxy powder coat primer.

With the head tube masked, the wet spray colour coats can commence. These will be topped off with a clear, polyester powder lacquer. Arguably powder coated acrylics offer the best aesthetic but polyester has the edge, where outright durability’s concerned.

Staying with sealants and lacquers a moment, while semi-permanent lacquers, such as Crankalicious Enduro Frame Sealant https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/crankalicious-enduro-frame-sealant-  aren’t designed to defend pricey paintwork from dings, scratches and similar damage, they do offer a useful protectant barrier.

The sort that resists road salt, oily spatter and makes the bike easier to clean. My one lament concerning my Univega’s otherwise excellent cream finish, is its tendency to show every oily finger mark. No matter how thoroughly I wax it. Well, I’m pleased to report sealants have saved the day.

Fenwick’s Professional Protective Coating has proved extremely effective. Compatible with gloss, matt and satin finishes, it’s a water-based formula that you work into clean dry surfaces. Buff to ashine and ideally, leave curing eight hours. This ensures it won’t transfer to hands, or other, unwanted regions of the bike’s anatomy.

Fenwick’s reckon a single application will last up to 6 months. A bit early to comment one way, or the other. Nonetheless, the invisible, slippery layer is more apparent than most and crucially, it seems to be keeping “Ursula” clean, in much the same fashion, a traditional, permanent lacquer would.

Spaced Out & Salvaged

Inspired by warmer drier weather, and of course, that Holdsworth Cyclone awaiting refinishing, I’ve plucked my Holdsworth from hibernation and decided to revise the cockpit, again. My love of flared drops seems to know no bounds. This might offend traditionalists, but my bikes are built, and evolve to suit me.

That’s not to say I don’t appreciate some people’s desires to keep a classic bike’s authenticity-right down to fasteners. The Soma Highway1 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma-highway-1-handlebars are a fine set of shallow drops, but that oh-so familiar urge for tweaking was calling. Condor’s hybrid design, combining riser and drops https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma  wasn’t the most obvious choice, I’ll admit.

After some reflection, I opted for the MK1, and then decided I also fancied a change of brake lever. A quick rummage in the spares’ drawer, unearthed this solitary, orphaned Tektro R200. Seemingly superseded by the RL340, these are nicely finished Campagnolo patterns, right down to the push button Q/R.

Giving change from £25 (pr) they play nicely with dual pivots, centre pulls and cantilevers. Their RL520 cousins were designed for V brakes and compatible with, cable operated disc callipers, such as these Tektro Spyre. Light springs, decent modulation and feel.

Some folks might be a bit snooty, but both represent fantastic value for money. Oh, and if you’re really that fussed about branding,, the Tektro logo could be stripped, using a cutting compound, such as Crankalicious Mayo Jaune Intensive Frame Cleaner https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/crankalicious-mayo-jaune-intensive-  

At 145g, the solitary lever is 85g heavier than the Acor carbon TT lever, it replaces. However, I felt it a more suitable revision-knew it’d come in handy someday! I described the Soma Condor2 Shallow Drop Bars https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma-condor-2-shallow-drop-bars  as   “The bar the original Soma Condor Handlebar should’ve been”.

Generally, I stand by this statement, but the original’s lower slung tops, are a better fit with the Holdsworth. Being able to salvage the silicone handlebar tape, was another definite bonus.  In some respects, The Genetic D-Riser 16 Bars https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-d-riser-bars  might’ve been better still. However, they’re staying on my fixed gear winter/trainer, thank you.

Holdsworth makeover complete, I tweaked the Woodman Saturn Aheadset bearings, gave it a good sudsy bucket wash, then treated it to this Velo21 Blueberry Glaze wax. Despite some initial scepticism, performance and longevity are quite impressive. Aside from apparent quality, and longevity of sheen, its genuinely compatible with matt, satin and gloss finishes. Yes, including this Torus Titanium Stem https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/torus-titanium-stem

Talking of wax, I had intended to dress the chain in Zefal Pro Dry Chain Lube but picked up Zefal Extra Dry Chain Wax, by mistake. An error that only became apparent when the white emulsion began seeping into the links. Mildly annoying, but there we are. No sense starting again, so I delivered three coats and popped the bike away. Quitting while ahead is a definite virtue.  Talking of chains, I checked the Univega’s FSA using my KMC digital unit. To date, wear is nominal, but I acquired a KMC X973 grey replacement, for when the FSA needs pensioning off.  

Fixed chains don’t require the same degree of introspection, but you’d be foolish not to inspect and where appropriate, adjust tension. This was only necessary a couple of times, during the KMC Z1 X’s  lifetime. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/kmc-inox-chain  By comparison, this is the third time in 1100miles, for the Passport Elements Single Speed Anti Rust Chain https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/passport-elements-single-speed-chai .

Nonetheless, the Passport is a very reliable, relatively smooth and highly corrosion resistant option. The galvanised texture genuinely seems to retain lube better, than traditional polished/electroplated models.

While it copes well with the stresses of a fixed transmission, I’d opt for a heavy-duty track version, if like me, you only run a single, front brake. Perfect for a single speed, or hub geared bike, especially those that see year- round, four seasons; service.     

Wax On...Wax Off

500 miles in, I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Zefal high Performance Ultra Dry Wax Lube and moved on to its dry sibling. Though most of the wax had flaked from the chain, the rollers still sported a thin filmy layer of lubricant. Look a little closer, and the side-plates also retain a waxy glaze.

This; coupled with the more arid, warmer conditions prompted a switch to Zefal Pro Dry Chain Lube. A solvent soaked rag stripped the remnants, Piranha-fashion. Then I noticed the gungy build up clinging to the derailleur’s top jockey wheel…Remember what our elders said about washing behind our ears…A bit more solvent, and most of the mushy, congealed wax fell away in satisfying clumps.

Leaving the solvent to evaporate, I turned my attention to the Pro Dry bottle, giving it a gentle shake, noting the petrochemical formula’s warning notices. The usual precautions-keep away from aquatic life, don’t drink etc but nothing about curing times…

Popping the spout, its clear elixir literally roared into the chain’s inner sanctum (not totally unexpected, I’d had said rag hovering beneath, ready for the over-spill). Most was easily reclaimed, redistributed to the chain, cleat mechanisms, control cables etc. I left this curing for another twenty minutes, while giving the tubby tourer a once-over, before locking it away.

As I’d expected, some water marks and spatter were appearing in the thin layer of Muc-Off Silicone Shine, applied the other week. However, this was easily dismissed with a clean, lint free cloth, while still leaving some of the slippery sheen behind.

The internet has opened a whole new portal of possibilities, revolutionised the way (and indeed, speed) we communicate. However, like many technologies, it can empower, or enslave. It can also expose us to energy sapping timewasters, and blind alleys.

Several factories in the Far East reached out to me, in the context of titanium forks but with breathtakingly unfavourable terms. So, I declined, and adjusted my focus. Watch this space.

I’ve also noticed a small but solid community of people converting steel MTBs (90s, rigid forks and even the odd quill stem) to drop bar “Gravel” builds. In many respects, they make better rough stuff/commu-tourers and gravel bikes, than ‘cross conversions.

Front mech and other compatibility considerations aside, unless you are a smaller/junior rider, main triangle clearances make shouldering the bike, through rougher sections less convenient.

A gravel specific build will be more lithe, lighter and possibly have an edge, speed wise. Nonetheless, its’ not difficult to appreciate how older, rigid cross-country mtbs make excellent starting points.  Big clearances, lofty bottom bracket heights and sensible geometry…

However, it’s important to calculate the cost of such conversions and consider component choice carefully. Otherwise what can be very straightforward, and inexpensive, can evolve into a heat-sink, gobbling time, energy and financial resources.  Staying with Gravel/Cross etc, I reached my conclusions regarding the Acros Silicone Wrap Bar Tape https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/acros-silicone-wrap-handlebar-tape  and Steve’s been living with Oxford Performance Bar Tape. Another Silicone blend, but one giving a decent amount of change from £20. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-performance-bar-tape  . Oh, and if you are looking towards an action cam, but are a bit low on your dough…Perhaps the Apeman A80 4K Action Camera will suit https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/apeman  

On a completely different note, I spotted what I believe to be a Holdsworth Cyclone frameset, awaiting refinishing. Though the enamel is looking weary, the electroplating looks almost factory fresh. Save perhaps for some tiny indentations.

It’s going to be refinished with water-based, wet spray paint, topped off with a polyester powder coat lacquer. I’m unsure about the year. The Cyclone was a tremendously long-lived model, running in different guises from 1934 right up to 1976.

I’m guessing late 50’s, maybe early 60s, built using plain gauge Reynolds 531 (Like my Holdsworth Zephyr). Would be interesting to know more about this specific frameset’s history. Please get in touch, if it belongs/belonged to you.