Just Because You Can Doesn’t Always Mean You Should

 

One thing often leads to another in my world. I’d spotted some bridlepath while bimbling along the backroads and was curious to see where it led- not very far, ultimately but nothing ventured, nothing gained. I was tempted to tackle it the night before, since I was out bedding in some brake pads and getting some beam shots. However, the Sigma Buster HL2000 SIGMA SPORT BUSTER HL 2000 | cycling-not-racing battery was still charging, so I made a mental note for the following morning.  Having indulged in a mixed terrain loop, I cut right and found myself navigating some recently churned bridleway that required low gears, persistence, deft unclipping and dab-downs.

Conditions improved and at that point I was met with a private no public access sign, so turned around and embraced the gloop once more.  Having filled the CST Patrol’s CST Patrol Folding EPS Tyres | cycling-not-racing tread, turning them into giant slicks (albeit with tangible traction) I rejoined asphalt and headed the two miles home, the CST Patrol shedding mud, mortar fashion.  

I rounded up the bike wash and blitzed Ursula. No sooner had I gone for the sudsy bucket, Fed Ex dropped off some goodies from Muc-Off. Specifically their Dark Energy Chain Wax and Chain Wax Cleaner-the latter optimised for removing wax lubes and others, including the factory packet-fresh elixir. I’d already stripped the Weldtite All Conditions Lube Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing clinging to Ursula’s KMC using Moto Verde Drivetrain cleaner, which is a very effective formula that works cleaner, rather than faster.

A question of spraying over the chain, cassette, rings and leaving the Motoverde doing its thing for 5-10 minutes, then introducing your chosen scrubbing brushes to agitate and lift the residual lube before rinsing with warm water and drying thoroughly.  The Muc-Off Chain Wax cleaner is reckoned to work in seconds, which may account for the (£22) asking price. Looking more closely at the directions suggests it's primarily intended for stripping chains of the factory dressing and similar before waxes are employed. It is also designed to tackle wax formulas, which can be quite tricky to dismiss convincingly, especially if they've been impacted within the chain, cassette and rings. In my experience, solvents tend to melt, rather than dismiss wax formulas, resulting in a gooey mess. Will be interesting to see how it performs.   

The Dark Energy Chain Wax uses a liquid carrier, which in my experience, results in more controlled, less wasteful application. Drop into every link, shift the chain up and down the cassette and leave curing for at least twelve hours- three times longer than typical of wax formulas. Designed for dry to damp conditions, as waxes are, I’m expecting something special. Muc-Off say the Dark Energy Chain Wax has been four years in the making and offers “The most complex balance between efficiency, durability and wear.”

I’m looking forward to seeing what the lanes, trails and roads reveal, once I’ve rolled it out across the fleet.  When it comes to Ursula, though there have been some very small tweaks and personal changes since her refurbishment and modernisation eighteen months back, the makeover pleases me. Retrospectively, I should’ve left more length in the Carbon Cycles Exotic Fork steerer Carbon Cycles Exotic Fork | cycling-not-racing , which would permit me to use more spacers and more traditional flared drops. 

I remain very fond of the Soma Condor II Shallow Drop Bars (riser drops) SOMA CONDOR 2 SHALLOW DROP BARS | and the positioning is bang on. However, the swoopy design means the diameter isn’t uniform throughout and can make mounting or aligning accessories trickier.  Eventually, I will retire the fork, go with a longer steerer and switch the bars but otherwise, cost of new fork, new cables and time switching everything over greatly outweighs the small, some might say, marginal gains. Come time, I will also replace the Tektro 520 levers for Dia Compe 287, since though great value, aesthetically pleasing and comfortable, in my experience, inner wires ultimately wear through the Tektro’s resin guides.    

Now, this brings me to the title. Though Ursula’s modernisation was for me, the right move, I’m not for wholesale conversion of older cross country mountain bikes, for its own sake.  Because everyone appears to be doing something, doesn’t mean it’s the right thing to do.

An old, cosmetically tatty but otherwise solid, good quality cro-moly frameset that needs refinishing, some additional braze-ons might be a good candidate (if an experienced frame builder gave it the nod). However, cantilevers and V brakes still offer excellent stopping prowess, are lighter, and generally simple to maintain.

Similarly, while 26 inch has stopped being the default, tyre choice is still pretty comprehensive, although I can see the draw of 650b, which was another factor influencing Ursula’s structural works. However, this coincided with some light structural repair and a respray- no sense having these done only to decide I wanted a disc mount.   

Discs are not the only fruit. I like them, but they can also get basted in a fair bit of crap, resulting in rub and slightly impaired performance. Then of course, not all frames and forks are beefy enough to withstand the additional forces discs place upon them. A good builder will insist on fitting a brace, such as that added to Ursula by Winston Vaz.

I’m still really fond of Magura’s Hydrostop, but they can be stubborn to set up and were supplied with braces, since their power was sufficient to cause cracks and other structural woes-especially in thin-wall tubing.  On that note, I'll leave you with something completely different- my review of the Coospo Real Road CS600 GPS Computer Coospo CS600 GPS | cycling-not-racing