Meaner Season

Autumn has progressed, with a much wetter flavour. Local authorities/highways departments are scrambling to patch battle-scared tarmac, while climate, conditions and budgets permit.

Temporary traffic-light control; raised ironworks and roughly lain tarmac is certainly testing rider skill, wheel build quality and tyre casings. 15 months on, my Halo White Line/Shutter Precision PD8 dynohub build https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-rim-and-shutter-dynohub-disc-b   could do with a quick tweak of its spoke tension.

John Moss (who built the wheel) has kindly offered to whip it on his jig, while I’m on an East Midlands mission. I’ll swap over to the Halo Evura/SL9 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-evura-shutter-precision-sl9-dy  for a couple of weeks (and may take that route). I’ve switched to my Univega and getting some serious mileage on those Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tyres.

These continue to impress with their smooth, compliant personalities. On and sans asphalt. True, they have a puncture repelling rating of 6, whereas the 365’s are 7. However, rolling resistance is vastly superior, and I’ll be very surprised should I flat in the coming months.    

The “Motor Oil Challenge is working out, as I envisaged, 200 miles in. So far, a decent amount of 5w40 still clings to my fixed’s stainless steel chain. I’m anticipating at least 400 before replenishment’s required.

My Univega’s electroplated chain is more accommodating of lubes generally, so I’m wondering if I can sneak past the 500mile mark, on a single helping. Assuming a 9/10spd chain is good for 1100 miles, potentially two helpings of motor oil could last its lifespan. River riding, snowy, slushy conditions will put a dent in this, dictating more frequent top-ups.

Of course, price is not the only determinant when considering lubricants. I’m particularly fond of waxy ceramic types, which, when cured, are relatively dry to touch and generally maintenance free. Much nicer, when tackling a rear puncture/similar road/trailside mechanical.

I’m firmly of the little n’ often approach when it comes to maintenance and servicing. Tuning and replacing stuff as I go, rather than having set schedules. Nonetheless, I always ensure seat posts, headsets and pedals are liberally greased-twice yearly. Not to mention those little fasteners- mudguard, rack and bottle bosses.  

As we hurtle closer to winter, I’m thinking of retiring my fixed gear winter/trainer’s stainless-steel chain. Leaning toward something galvanised…May even plump for another, slightly lower fixed sprocket. Note to self…Remember to baste the hub’s threads with a luxuriously ceramic, grease!

Lithium based preps, commonly used in automotive contexts, are cheap and fine, if mating metals of similar parentage i.e. steel with steel, 7005 series aluminium alloys etc. Problem is, they’ll gobble rubberised components, including seals.

I much prefer a stout ceramic, such as White Lightning Crystal grease. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/white-lightning-crystal-grease  Green Oil Eco-Grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-ecogrease-long-ter-test  is a surprisingly stocky, non-toxic alternative.  Staying prowess is good. I’m happy using it on contact points and indeed, headsets/bottom brackets, provided the bike(s) in question are running full-length mudguards.   

Reliability and convenience are key, when it comes to enjoying winter. Treating framesets and components a liberal waxing and treating bikes to weekly sudsy bucket washes (cold water rinses first, to remove road salt and similar caustic stuff) is another sound idea.

This will lock the elements out, making it harder for gloop to stick and subsequent washing easier. Time poor riders, may find a system, such as Green Clean MX is the way forward https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pro-green-mx-triple-pack These are also available singularly, and I’m particularly endeared to the Cycle Shine. This can be applied to a freshly washed (and rinsed) bike. No buffing or polishing required, simply allow it to cure naturally.

Post wash; quick squirts of “maintenance” spray, to cables and mechanisms, should keep them happy and dependable. Not everyone has time, or the inclination to do their own maintenance/servicing.

That’s when a good mobile mechanic, or local bike shop is worth their weight in gold. If you’re in the Tendring area, Justin Burls now offers servicing and repairs, alongside his bespoke titanium bikes/framesets http://www.burls.co.uk/sandr.html  

Dynamos

As the nights start creeping in, lighting becomes a greater priority, although like many, good lighting’s a must, year-round. The days of bottle dynamo and glimmer-type halogen lamps are long gone. Riders are spoilt for choice, when it comes to powerful and affordable systems.

For me, navigational prowess and “seen with” safety is equally important. I don’t like anything that might dilute this, hence only my front light is powered by the hub. LEDs at the rear, for me. Keeps things clean and simple too, no wiring to snag.

This is particularly important on a build, such as my Univega, which traverses unmade roads and forest trails. Its Exposure revo lamp will produce 800 lumens, at very slow speeds and to date, the only credible alternative to uber lumen rechargeable systems. 

Fed by a Shimano Ultegra hub, resistance is nominal too, although there’s a weight penalty- around 350g above a standard, high quality front hub.

With this in mind, and being impressed by Shutter Precision’s 403g PD8 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/halo-rim-and-shutter-dynohub-disc-b  I was delighted to take delivery of this Halo Evaura/ Shutter Precision SL9. To my surprise, this is 80g heavier than the Halo White Line and PD8 pairing.

The SV9 is cited as being 309g and though the family resemblance is obvious, looks as if it has been put through a matter-shrinking device, a serious plus, if you want a really, sleek, unobtrusive unit for a winter, or audax build.

Ours was machined to accept centre-lock discs, such as this Shimano but I went the machined sidewall route, so its easily swapped between my fixed gear winter/trainer and 

more traditional 700c ‘cross and touring lorries.

A lack of Shimano lock-ring has stalled testing, although there’s one on order. Meantime, I’ve checked the weights, added rim tape and mounted the Soma Fabrications Shikoro https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/s .

Riding, whether it’s lightweight bicycles, or middleweight motorcycles has always been about freedom. The ability to escape, disappear and be “at one” with machine and surroundings. High quality lighting simply enhances the experience.

Long obsolete now, but the first generation of high-power lead acid systems, such as Night Sun and BLT were game changing. Run times weren’t overly generous and output was much less tuneable, compared with contemporary setups, thus not the best round town.

However, these systems allowed us to “own” the forest trails and deserted backroads. Night brings a completely different persona to frequently travelled routes. North Holmwood in Surrey magically transforms from well-heeled suburbia, to lanes illuminated only by houses and the occasional, passing vehicle.

There’s a lot to be said in favour of nocturnal riding. Firstly, it brings a completely different character to familiar routes. Not only do we become more aware of our surroundings, but climbs become less arduous, descents more fun and for me personally, there’s a deeper sense of connection with my machines.

Aside from seasonal compulsion, I often test bikes and equipment in the dark, for precisely this reason. I may/mot be drawn to the aesthetics of something but how does it perform on a truly functional level, can I rely on it? Sure, reliability is of greatest importance during the depths of winter and there’s sound argument for the occasional mechanical being part n’ parcel of riding.

I discovered my Univega’s rear cantilevers had become extremely sticky, dragging on the rim. Having stripped and inspected the cantilever posts, given these were almost 13 years old and were OEM equipment on my fixed gear winter/trainer, I had a rummage through the spares drawer and fitted some Avid shorty.

This sorted the problem, offer improved modulation/feel and are easier to setup. As a precaution, I also stripped, re-greased and reassembled the IRD CAFAM 2 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/ird-cafam-2-cantilever-brakes . There was some minor corrosion on the springs but that was pretty much it and to be expected, given the long winter we had.

Even the best maintained machines can let us down, unexpectedly.  Night riding is also good, for general reflection and the sense of speed, distance and escape often allows the unconscious mind to work overtime. Ever wondered why you return with renewed clarity and often, the solution to problems-complex, or otherwise?

  

Suddenly September

 

September has arrived, with different, though very positive energy. Some people feel a sense of sadness, as the leaves turn auburn but for me, it’s always been a time of optimism. From a journalist’s perspective, it’s time for trade shows and exciting new kit.

Testing takes on a new dimension too. The weather is still temperate and relatively kind to components, yet changeable enough to keep things interesting. Longer, steady night rides, or the usual routes take on a new character, with changing light and temperature. That said; conditions still permit lightweight, friction busting, dirt phobic chain lubes. Since we’re on the subject, the Weldtite TF2 Ultra dry wax is holding up pretty well and as I’d expect, running very clean.

There’s no such thing as the wrong weather, rather it’s the wrong kit.

Twenty years ago, high power rechargeable lights commended £200. No longer does this mean a heavy lead acid battery that consumed a bottle cage. A 900 lumen compact torch light, such as this Xeccon spear costs less than £60 and in the highest setting, will still run for 90minutes from a fully juiced 2600amh, replaceable cell.

At the other extreme, there’s a town friendly, cell sipping 230 lumen mode, reckoned to deliver 6hrs 30 minutes from a full charge. I haven’t verified this, or the claims of 35 hours in strobe. Now, I’m fully aware that auction site specials, capable of twice this output (on paper) fuelled by relatively small lithium ion battery packs, can be had for £20.

Sure, they’re bright but the quality of output isn’t necessarily that good, thanks to basic lens and reflector. Similarly, although many are offering a 500lumen and strobe settings, the former is still overkill for suburban contexts. Again, being someone who does a lot of miles along pitch black lanes, I’m intrigued by those boasting big numbers.

I was particularly impressed last year, by Moon meteor storm pro https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/moon-meteor-storm-pro-front-light The Xeccon spear is very reminiscent of Moon LX760 that we also tested in Seven Day Cyclist last autumn. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/moon-lx760-front-light  It uses the same Cree XM2 diode and follows a similar shape. However, they are two very distinct lights.

Some folks suggest this genre have off road potential. In the sense of a quick forest or tow path short cut, perhaps. However, the hybrid spot and floods beam is best for asphalt. Stay tuned to Seven Day Cyclist www.sevendaycyclist.com for a full and conclusive response. Elsewhere, at the other end, I’ve been warming to the Xeccon Mars 60.

It’s termed a smart light and you’d be forgiven for thinking it was 60 lumens. There’s truth in both statements but it’s a bit more complex. Smart refers to the “Braking” function.

Regardless, which of the five modes you’ve chosen, it detects motion. Slowing down defaults to the 60lumen, steady mode, which is very intense at close quarters. Outside of that, 40 lumens is tops and more than sufficient for open roads. 20, or erven 10 is more appropriate for town, especially given the braking default I’ve just mentioned.

Elsewhere, September/October are prime times for bike prep. Give frames and components a decent helping of high quality wax preserve, ditto shoes, saddles. There’s been sufficient precipitation, the odd storm too, giving me the opportunity to see just how effective the Crankalicious leather lacquer and crisp frame hybrid frame wax are.

Both are convenient, dare I say, nice to apply. Crisp is reckoned to last 4months between applications. That’s true of many formulas-perfect when bikes are being put into seasonal hibernation, or during less taxing riding conditions, so I’m looking forward to seeing just how it holds up. 

Metal frames also benefit from a moderate helping of internal, oil based preserve. Commercially available aerosols are convenient and for the most part, very effective. They are cheap to manufacture and recipes vary.

Mine, developed over the past twenty three years; is made from old/job lot candles, solvent and semi synthetic motor oil. A small quantity poured inside the seat tube, distributed evenly around the frame’s inner sanctum should be sufficient.

Adding more solvent will achieve a spray able consistency but since I also use it to preserve my mk1 KA’s chassis and underside, the brush-on blend goes further, creates less clean up and ultimately, suits my purposes best.

Bearing in mind, these can also seal moisture in (the last thing you want) they should only be applied while the days are relatively temperate and arid. DISCLAIMER Such “metal medicine” is made and used entirely at your own risk. I will not be held responsible for any accident/damage however caused. If in doubt, buy commercially available products and seek professional advice.

Carbon composites don’t corrode, or deteriorate in the same fashion but they are very effective conductors. Bottom bracket sleeves, derailleur hangers and other areas are typically aluminium alloy.

Aside from treating painted and lacquered surfaces to decent quality waxes, strip the headset, bottom bracket, derailleur and skewers. Treat these to a stout, high quality ceramic/polymer grease to prevent galvanic corrosion (seizure of different metals) and other unnecessary misery later on.  

Petrochemicals aren’t kind to rubberised seals, or suspension linkages either. I’ve found a drop of Green Oil slip https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-slip-eco-lubricant https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-eco-spray-lube, or their eco-spray lube, perfect for small bushings/similar components.  On that note, I’m off to prepare for a trade show and put some more lights through their paces.                

Festival of light

So long as bike(s) and rider are properly dressed, weather presents no barrier to serious fun. Autumn has swept in stealthily, its slimy cocktail replacing the rich vibrant auburn colours. Thankfully, it was accompanied by Diwali and a steady trickle of kit designed for this much maligned cluster of months. Talking of which, that sorry looking Specialized Rock Hopper has just been transformed-cream powder coat with fresh decals sealed under 2pac lacquer.

I’ve got a thing for blinkies ever since I acquired my first back in November 1992.

Plug in Integral lithium ion/polymer cells are almost default and while undeniably convenient, not to mention frugal compared with cost of running AA/A, they aren’t perfect for all occasions.

AA/A types remain better options for touring, dusk ‘till dawn night rides and those who don’t clock in at a keyboard. Run times can be 30-60hrs plus in flashing, Ni-Cd rechargeables keep costs to a minimum and disposables are pretty ubiquitous-off-licences, supermarkets, petrol stations usually keep healthy stocks.  This I Zone Curve 2 rear light is a particularly nice, inexpensive example.

Firepower has always been a popular selling point but rather like our humble bar mounted computers, our blinkies are positively bristling with different modes-some retina tickling, others that sip reserves, sequences designed to solicit attention in different contexts the list continues. Lowest common denominator, we only need two modes-steady and flashing and our bikes, a single, fixed gear of 72inches...        

COB (Chips on Board) technology, which enables colonies of tiny diodes to occupy the same space seem quite popular this season. Theoretically this combines optimal output, while preventing diodes and circuitry overheating so they can fulfil their true potential and reach ripe old ages.

High power headlamps are another justly popular choice for navigating dark roads and another technology I embraced with both arms back in the late 1990s. Back then, we were talking in terms of £200 10 and 25 watts and lead acid batteries that induced hernias.

Smart used to offer some nice cheap n’ cheerful versions for commuting- I had the cute-looking twin lamp complete with slightly whippy bracket and a CNC machined 10 watt flood version, which was surprisingly bright but not obviously, not particularly helpful for picking out the detail.

Competition and economies of scale have seen prices crash and with box fresh 1800 lumen grey (unofficial) imports offered on auction sites for as little as £18, its easy to see why they’ve become default, even for road riding.  

However, aside from the potential risks-lower quality chargers and exploding cells being popular discussions on forums; these are often limited to three modes. Full blast; standard (50/60%) both of which is way too much fire power for built up districts.

Better (read more expensive) models allow more progressive stair casing, so you can charge along abandoned backwaters at full pelt but click down to something suitable for city limits when required.

Battery slurpage is slower, so you can play out longer and oncoming traffic doesn’t get dazzled. Something like this Oxford X pro is another option for town and suburban runs, either on its own or as a tempered side-kick to your big gun.

Nicely made from rugged CNC machined aluminium, it’s another “lolly stick” plug in model that fuels up from your USB, or mains adaptor. Top whack is reputedly 300lumens but the lens casts a very pure, focused pool of light, which has coped surprisingly well in short haul semi-rural contexts to around 17mph.

Prodding down for economy is easily achieved, even in gloved hands courtesy of a positive centre-mounted switch but there’s no danger of the dreaded dazzle and other traffic still takes notice at around 200 metres.

Flashing is the lowest setting and if you were purely looking to remain conspicuous, 300-400metres isn’t unrealistic and the centre window allows decent peripheral bleed too, so you should remain firmly on the radar when entering the flow of traffic.       

Short days with low light have been presenting some photographic challenges but considerably more rewarding than the calibre of temporary work being offered. Unfortunately, this is going to remain part of my economic diet while I nurture sapling projects, build brand presence and purchase more equipment.

Several agencies have been in touch, some interested in my journalism specific skill-set, others looking to fill housing roles. Pragmatism is a basic pre-requisite for freelancers and indeed, people generally in a volatile economy.

Therefore biting the hand that offers potential work, let alone feeds you is always foolhardy. Recruitment is sales driven and experience enables one to see through the patter. No shortage of people complimenting me on my versatility but with notable exceptions, this hasn’t been reflected in the assignments offered.

Thankfully the standard of applicants for Seven Day Cyclist has been refreshingly high, although we’re whittling them down to a handful and will interview at our earliest convenience. 

Back to the Bodge Box

Well, after all that fuss n’ fanfare, the K-Edge & Geonaute polycarbonate shell combo proved decidedly disappointing. Specifically, persistent low-level road vibrations induced perpetual and distinctly infuriating slippage. Clearly struck by a Eureka moment, I returned from an early evening’s backwater blast and began rifling through a series of clear Perspex boxes.

By this point, frustration was such that I was thinking of helmet mounting when ten minutes later-Bingo! The Wingman’s resin bar bracket materialised, proving fully compatible with case and oversized bulge diameters, though I had to forgo the standard bolt in favour of a super stocky UV resistant zip-tie.

Successive dry runs along the lane confirmed rock solid, blur-free tenure, inducing a tremendous sense of achievement (not to mention uncharacteristically large grin).

Knog’s Qudos action video light materialised at the tail end of last week, which is similarly pleasing. Coming from a design company, I wasn’t surprised (though suitably impressed) by the sleek metal box and foam packaging which keeps everything safe and secure in storage/transit. Foraging inside revealed a beautifully executed light, slightly reminiscent of their Blinder Road2 lamp fed a steroid diet.

Ours was anodised black, though silver is no less alluring and will arguably age more gracefully. Now, somewhat sensibly, the mounting bracket is a Go-Pro pattern, so I’d anticipated some compatibility challenges with the G-Eye.

First and foremost insufficient spacing meant the two were literally butting heads, especially with the cameras’ polycarbonate housing in situ. After much head scratching/trial n’ error, I overcame this obstacle by resurrecting the Wingman and K-Edge brackets before reintroducing said gizmos as separates.

Knog also include a cold shoe tripod mount designed compatible with DSLR convergence work (another area of image making that has slowly but surely pricked my consciousness) in mind. Indeed, the Qudos is another example of the Australian marque’s consistently improving build quality.

Aluminium is an obvious choice for headlamp housings-rugged and lightweight it also displaces heat more efficiently than cheaper resins, so those three Cree diodes and circuitry stand a sporting chance of enjoying old age. Its’ also water resistant to 40 metres-130ft or so, giving potential for scuba and other submergible action. 

Now, 400lumens sounds impressive and in bike lighting terms is good enough for sprightly canters in semi-rural contexts.However, despite the Sports Action tag; I have suspicions this will require support from an uber lumen handlebar amp for capturing moonlit blasts, let alone trail antics. 

Those looking for more subtle illumination will be pleased to note its 70 lumen setting is claimed to sip the fully loaded 1,000 m AH lithium polymer cell for four hours, whereas the former is reckoned good for 40odd minutes.

That said; batteries are available separately and I’m thinking there’s some scope for emergency bike lighting, should your mains system flake out in sticksville.  Well, I’ll leave it here for now and will report back once a bigger micro SD card arrives…

The staying prowess of Btwin Teflon lube continues to astound me. We cruised through the 1100mile barrier on a single application and though about due replenishment, my fixer’s stainless steel chain still sported a protective film and minimal contaminant. 

Let’s see what the season of falling leaves, rich colours and damper roads reveals. Talking of which; I must crawl beneath the KA and give its underside and sills a routine basting of home brewed corrosion inhibitor before too long.

Falling Leaves

Been a productive but tough couple of weeks, “Belgian Mix” has been satisfactorily reworked, so I’ve turned my attentions to some children’s fiction since I’m on a mission to explore additional horizons and opportunity presents. Autumn is showing visible signs of its imminent arrival and with it, renewal of the workshop roof in favour of something more substantial before renewal becomes urgent.

Other creative opportunities have presented themselves and are being pursued with renewed tenacity coupled with a sense of tentative optimism. Not exclusive to the “creative” industries but seemingly endemic is the expectation that people will supply goods and services for nothing- I’ve had several encounters of this nature recently, treating them with the contempt they deserve. I have often accepted payment in kind, or on a barter basis but refuse to indulge in the sweat shop mentality-doing so, encourages a downward spiral, rather akin to buying stolen goods and wondering why one’s home/business becomes a target for theft. Remunerate fairly and skilled people will reciprocate. 

Commissioning solely on price has major repercussions-many an “Uncle Bob” with “professional looking equipment” has shot their niece’s wedding with disastrously second-rate results, copious tears and family rifts. Sure you can get a gas combi boiler refit for £500 but don’t expect to find recompense when carbon monoxide or major explosion rips through your lives-said contractor will have saddled their horse, ridden off into the sunset without so much as a tax code, let alone public liability cover and Corgi accreditation. Never mind, household insurers are bound to be sympathetic…

For the time being I have shelved the idea of qualifying as a masseuse, since singular, professionally recognised qualifications seem rare as the proverbial rocking horse dropping and I don’t want to pursue a three year beauty therapy route, only for my extended skillset to be mooted by gender. However, opportunities can materialise unexpectedly so I’ll continue along other paths for now.

Toyed with re configuring the Univega’s front end to include an Alpina dynohub with disc mounts but the practical advantages are outweighed by unnecessary retirement of perfectly good components, while serving to increase its theft appeal. Nonetheless, I’ve invested in another Dcup lower race and Weldtite have sent me their steerer cutter, so front end surgery is definitely on the cards. Thirty thousand miles and countless shifts later it’s eight speed LX rear mech has been pensioned off in favour of this remarkably competent Microshift M45, an 8/9spd unit broadly on terms with the Japanese giant’s Alivio but a wee bit cheaper.

Ours was the long cage model for seriously wide ratios (11-34 teeth anyone) though, there’s a shorter cage sibling, which will save scarce few grams but might canter across the block fractionally faster. No surprise to see its now sporting the LX crankset, which is better finished not to mention (258g) lighter than its Alivio predecessor’s drive side alone, largely attributable to aluminium alloy rings. 

So then, we now have an eclectic ensemble of eight/nine speed mech, commanded by 8/9speed brifters, 9speed crankset, eight speed chain, cassette and fifteen year old STX front mech.  Everything was pretty much plug n’ play, save for the latter but even this this complied when fed a fresh cable and tweaked judiciously. Quintessentially crude, models of similar calibre appear pretty tolerant of mixing n’ matching and serves to scotch popular lore suggesting such configurations will never work to genuinely acceptable standards.

We’ll see how far it lags behind in another fifteen hundred miles or so, by which point I shall put the existing Sun Race and KMC consumables out to pasture, marking 108,000 miles on the tubby tourer and its continued evolution into nine speed-by default, rather than design. Well, that brings this entry to a natural conclusion-time I drafted a few pitches and copied my late father’s Open University series from VHS cassette to DVD.