Shot Bolt, Sinking Feelings & Reprieves

 

I go through phases of tweaking saddle height but before any of you have visions of me constantly fettling mid-ride, a ’la Mr Rottler (who was so renowned by his teammates for perpetually adjusting his, they named a spanner after him), mine usually coincides with a change of seat post, saddle etc.  

Getting those precious late summer miles in on the Holdsworth, I was conscious of my saddle being a little low, suspiciously so.  

Having concluded the ride, inspection revealed the Crank Brothers post was indeed creeping very slowly into the frame. I traced this to a fatigued seat bolt- an easy fix. Replace and snug down to the correct tolerances. Seat collars, at least, the modern types are around the 6nm mark (but do check, they can be lower). Sensible, given the popularity of carbon fibre posts.  

However, it would seem more traditional binder bolts and metal posts are 9-12nms. This lower default may also explain the steady downward creep. Either way, I replaced the electroplated Cro-moly binder bolt for another, added a lick of Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and snugged that down to 10nms. Tweaked the headset bearings by a fraction of a turn, since opportunity presented. Two little jobs off the list.   

With this and roads carpeted in dung and agricultural mud, I’ve switched to racking up the miles aboard Ursula and those Schwalbe Smart Sam tyres. Farm tracks, unmade roads and bridlepath have been our 5am playgrounds. While primarily designed for dry, hardpack conditions, they’re proving less ponderous than might be expected, suggesting the raised centre strip does offer some tangible benefits on metalled roads. 560g apiece also helps in that respect.  

Schwalbe suggests they’re suitable for touring. In the broad strokes, mixed terrain sense, with the emphasis upon trails, I’d agree but models like Specialized Crossroads Armadillo and indeed, Maxxis Overdrive Excel Maxxis Overdrive Excel Tyre | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) are better choices for longer spells on the road and gentler off-piste meandering.  

I wasn’t surprised by the amount of dust clinging to the Smart Sam and Ursula’s frameset given the extended hot, dry spell, although, the falling leaves now serve as a reminder autumn is fast advancing. I’m sticking with waxy-type chain lubes for the moment, since they’re much cleaner and will flake off, taking contaminant with it.  

However, I noticed a very clean chain and faint metal-on-metal tinkling sooner than expected, so strongly suspect I’ll be switching to a middleweight blend next time. Weldtite TF2 Performance All Weather TF2 PERFORMANCE ALL WEATHER LUBRICANT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  is something of a default for me but (and while it may seem an odd choice, given the season, Muc Off-50 Chain lube MUC-OFF -50C CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) makes a surprisingly good everyday blend-it's a little lighter than the Weldtite TF2 Performance All Weather, and doesn’t contain PTFE.

  

Talking of unusual choices, I’ve discovered carbon gripper paste has also proved highly effective at securing electric toothbrush heads...For context, I bought some replacement, genuine heads for mine and they’re what might be best described as a “pattern” fit. A sudden flash of inspiration saw me reaching for this Weldtite Gripper Paste and this gut feeling paid off.    

Elsewhere, there’s been plenty of mist, and I’ve been pleasantly surprised by how well the Infini Sword Infini Sword Super Bright Light Set | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) have performed in these contexts, the rear as my sole light.

The flashing modes are ultra frugal-Infini reckons 200 hours and I’ve come within a few minutes of this.  Brilliant for marathon night riding and as a dynamo companion. Peripheral prowess is better than a slimline profile would suggest, although when conditions have been in pea-soup territory, I’ve felt that bit safer with the Ravemen TR200.  

As the name suggests it delivers a maximum of 200 lumens and has a sensored 100-lumen “braking” function, which really brings the 40 and 20-lumen steady modes to life along the backroads. Alternatively, in the back of beyond, disengage the “braking” function, select one of two 100 lumen flashing settings and save some juice.  

Temptations & Demons Purged

I’ve never been a spendthrift. Sure, I’ve enjoyed the odd splurge now and then. However, this tends to be when I’ve really wanted, or needed something. The fixed gear winter/trainer’s V2 frameset being a case in point. I’d been wanting one since 2003 but new parenthood, bills and related expenditure put this firmly on the back burner. I finally bought one (at a very compassionate price) for Christmas two years later.  

Made from in-house 4130 Cro-Moly and complete with matching fork, it was hardly exotic, or an expensive purchase but crucially responsive and engaging to ride. Fast forward 18 years and nothing remains of the original build, not so much as a spacer. The V4, though very worthy, and featuring more traditional (some would say better) seat stays failed to capture my imagination.  

A few years in the wilderness, the frameset has reemerged, (albeit with some obvious developments) as the Mulo. Back is the wishbone rear triangle and the blue livery, but a much beefier head tube and more refined dropouts. Theoretically, the head tube’s size and profile mean a bigger weld platform and bigger bearings, translating in a stronger, more responsive front end but without being unduly harsh.  

The Mulu has scope for 43mm (about 1.69 in) wide tyres too, compared with the V2’s 35mm limit. Now, you’d be forgiven for thinking I’d talked myself into indulging. My bike boner was indeed, leading me in that direction. However, when other costs were factored into the equation, the upgrades/improvements didn’t justify spending £435 (frame, fork and Aheadset). Besides, there was also the emotional bond between me and the V2 after all these years, many miles, and rider-centric evolutions.  

Instead, I decided it was time to get testing the eXotic Carbon Titanium Seat post. 350mm long, titanium refers to the cradle hardware and our 27.2 tip the scales at a feathery 173g. I’ve gone for the Selle Royal Respiro Sport Saddle since it was handy and generally very compatible with my derriere. (264g, on account of the magnesium rails but only 7g over the Selle Italia Turbomatic Gel Flow Team Saddle, which has carbon). Yes, I spotted the slightly upward tilt and levelled accordingly.  

Again, the fixed gear winter trainer is hosting-I'm leaving the Holdsworth’s Crank Brothers Cobalt3 and BBB Razer combo in situ. However, I did slip the post out and gave it a lick of grease, since I was there.   

The last thing you want to introduce carbon to, is grease.  

Having whipped the Genetic Syngenic TEST & REVIEW: GENETIC SYNGENIC SEATPOST (sevendaycyclist.com) out, I cleaned the seat tube with a clean rag dipped in solvent and added some gripper paste to the eXotic post. For the uninitiated, gripper pastes are designed to grip the post (or other part) reducing the torque required (and therefore, potential damage to the post/stem etc).  

Most brands seem to work just fine, although I’m personally fond of Muc Off MUC-OFF CARBON GRIPPER PASTE (sevendaycyclist.com) and more recently, Peaty’s Max Grip Carbon Assembly Paste Peaty’s Max Grip Carbon Assembly Paste | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Formative impressions of the eXotic post are favourable, its light and gives that familiar buzz taming ripple across washboard tarmac. No creaking from the titanium hardware, either, which was similarly welcome, although during the first few outings, I’ve been keen to check they’re snugged tight.  

Talking of snugging things tight, while giving Ursula a well-deserved wash, I discovered some minor play in the bottom bracket region. Easily purged in a matter of minutes. For the uninitiated or unfamiliar, slacken the left-hand crank arm, turn the preload clockwise-fractionally using a 10mm Allen key, then tightening the 5mm Allen bolts to 14nms.  

The prevalence of carbon composites and other materials mean the torque wrench is as essential as the floor pump and excellent quality pressure gauge for home mechanics. Indeed, I’m coming to the point where compact torque wrenches are preferable for mid ride fettling and mechanicals. Most, including budget models, are perfectly accurate and pleasant to use. However, they’re also precision instruments.  

Always release the tension I.e., dial them out to zero after use and don’t drop them. Some sound an audible “click” when the correct tension is achieved, some go limp, others do both. Either way, do not go beyond this. I’ve lost count of the times when I’ve heard automotive fitters go three clicks past “just to be sure”. Not people I’d want working on my vehicle. 

  

This M-Part Torque wrench has served me well for over a decade. It’s a sub £60 model, which is intuitive to use and has an operating range between 2 and 15nms, which caters for a good spread of bicycle-related applications. JIS square taper and Octalink crank bolts, Hollowtech II bottom brackets, and cassette lockrings are obvious exceptions.

Weldtite has also sent me their Cyclo model, which casts the net a little wider range-wise (2-24nms). It also measures foot-pounds, extending its horizons to other applications, which may roll the dice in its favour.  

Some generic auction site tools range from 5nms upwards, which might be fine for stem and seat collar binder bolts upwards but rules out more delicate fasteners including bottle cages, mudguard, and carrier mounts, which are typically 2nms, or so. You pays your money....On that note, I'll close with my review of the Maxxis Refuse TR tyres MAXXIS REFUSE TR FOLDING TYRE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)