Grinning Through The Gloom

These Schwalbe Marathon GT tyres arrived for testing from Schwalbe UK. Ours were the narrower 35mm section- nigh on1.4 inches in old money but there’s an even beefier 38mm, which seem a fitting choice, for the latest generation of disc equipped tourer, or tarmac tamed cross/gravel bikes.

These are much faster than the legendary and justly revered Marathon. Something that is immediately obvious from the first few pedal strokes-they’re also significantly easier to mount-no tyre levers required. Stiffer sidewalls, 7mm and 68g apiece separate them from the generally likeable, uber plush Maxxis Roamer.

Their E-bike compliance is also likely to explain the additional girth, although the Schwalbe inspire greater confidence along the wet, silty lanes. The sort that seem perpetually carpeted in gooey dung, complete with thorny, talon-like hedge clippings.

They use the “Dual Guard” system. Rather than our old friends Kevlar/Aramid, Schwalbe employs a two-layer nylon casing and a further 2.5mm strip of India rubber that works like a trampoline, forcing sharps out, thus minimise the risk of a flat. Schwalbe rate it 6/7 and say it strikes the optimal balance between speed and puncture prevention, which sounds perfect for bikes in daily service.

Talking of which, sidewalls feature a reflective strip and dynamo track, adding to their appeal. 

Retro-reflective strip and the Chevron style water channelling grooves are very reminiscent of Vittoria Voyager hyper http://www.sevendaycyclist.com/vittoria-voyager-hyper-tyre .

Interestingly, their profiles are slightly narrower than the faster rolling, Italian brands’ 35mm section, meaning a more comfortable fit in my winter/training fixer’s rear triangle.  

Formative impressions are very favourable. 65 miles along greasy/icy back roads suggest a quick, yet ultra dependable tyre. It’ll be at least 400 before I arrive at anything near tangible conclusions.  

Meanwhile those slushy lanes see regular post-ride rinse-overs to prevent salty, caustic stuff taking hold and moreover, nibbling away at pretty paintwork and components. I’ve got this down to around 10 minutes, including a quick, precautionary squirt of PTFE based lubes on exposed cables, pivot points and similarly sensitive mechanisms. 

I’ve also reverted to the Rock n’ Roll gold lube for more staying prowess but without the stickiness associated with traditional wet lubes.          

Decent lights are imperative during the winter months and not just the retina melting type, of which I am so very fond. Often it is the blinkies, retro-reflective and tertiary lighting that first registers on a driver’s radar. Aside from the Visijax gilet (www.visijax.com ), which continues to impress me with its presence, I’ve discovered the origins of John Moss’s preference for yellow, signal yellow to be precise.

Both his Tandem trike and Mango fairing sport this shade. Having recently changed the Velomobile’s gearing for a 2x9, thus improving efficiency overall, he’s decidedly dissatisfied with attempts to repair the scuffed nose using single pack acrylic aerosols. His godson works at the sharp end of car body repair, thus is fully equipped to apply 2K. We’ve tracked down a suitable Ford shade, so watch this space...

Elsewhere, we’re a bit further along with Graham’s GT rebuild-I’ve just introduced some cheap but cheerful, Jagwire brake cables. While Graham locates the wheels and I await derailleur cables, I’ve sanded some superficial glazing from the Alivio pads and I’m leaving those stainless steel inner wires to stretch to capacity. Then I’ll re-tension, prune and superglue the ends to stop fraying before it starts.

Premium grade cable sets, such as those Jagwire Elite presently stopping the Univega and are immune to such vices-simply tension, tighten the anchor bolts and trim to size. Budget models, though generally faithful servants benefit from a different approach.

Having set cable tension, pump brake levers ten times in succession to induce some slack. Loosen those anchor bolts, pull the inner wire through again and snug tight. I lean toward leaving them overnight and re-tensioning the next morning. They will have stretched to capacity by this point, so once tweaked, shouldn’t induce any short-soiling moments when tackling a 1in4 descent. Same basic principle applies to derailleurs. 

Right, well that’s it for this entry. Off for a chat with someone about a gravel bike... 

Fast Blasts, Broken Chains & Electric Blue GTs

The new Scram chain was awaiting me when I returned from the midlands. Trimmed to size and fitted in a matter of minutes, I spurned the tool free pin for a more reliable union. Derailleur and rear brake cables re-tensioned, everything was behaving impeccably.

Rear/blinkey lights on charge in preparation for an evening blast, the Exposure revo Mk1 front dynamo lamp was decidedly dormant-not a flicker. I initially feared I’d inadvertently snagged the connector wire. Replacements are around the £12 mark. Hardly going to break the bank but

Dirty hub contacts came as a relief and were easily fixed, with a quick wipe and fresh lick of Vaseline. I’ve not had chance to play with its successors, or indeed, their complete hub-dynamo system, which looks mightily impressive.

I’ve always liked integrated lighting for commuting and touring but was traditionally disappointed by the modest to moderate output-fine for being seen but in my experience, underpowered for navigating dark and lonely lanes.

Paired with a decent helmet light, there’s a reasonable amount of trail/green lane potential too, although it’s worth noting that I only run a front light from the Ultegra hub.    

Last hurdle presented in the guise of a faulty rear valve. It was a latex infused self-healing model, which in my experience are reliable enough and will seal small holes but tend to gum up, or go-off after a couple of years.  

Tube swapped for a standard Schwalbe and wheel reinstated, I took a few shots before popping it away and returned to the study to tackle some deadlines and discuss some quotes. Talking of tyres; Vittoria got in touch and are sending some mid-section 700c winter/commuter-touring models for testing at Seven Day Cyclist.  

I’d received some electroluminescent garments from Visijax, so the cold but clear evening was all the excuse I needed to take the Univega for a cheeky twenty mile test run. Lanes to myself and I was the proverbial child at Christmas. Revelling in the tubby tourer’s majestic, magic carpet ride and crisp shifts, my serenity was shattered by the sudden loss of power followed by that familiar, heart-sinking tinkle of chain tickling tarmac...

Pulling over to the soft grassy verge, I rummaged through my wedge pack until I found multi-tool and spare links. Thankfully, despite tumbling temperatures and numbing digits, I was able to execute substitution within a matter of minutes. The Revolution Vision usb helmet light http://www.sevendaycyclist.com/revolution-usb-helmet-light  in constant, 50 lumen mode, provided just enough light to operate by.

These experiences are all part of riding and a reminder why wedge pack inventories are so important. More often than not, there’s little call for anything beyond the spare tube, spare links, multi tool, snack, change and spare batteries for a light/emergency blinkey but it's worth checking their condition periodically. Eighty miles in, I’m delighted with the regeneration of my mile munching friend and confident.

Numb of bum and brain, I took a break from the keyboard, so headed to Maldon Shot blasting & Powder Coating to bolt Graham’s refinished mid 90s’ GT back together.  His Timberline now sports an electric blue livery, created using a chrome effect powder base and blue lacquer atop. He also decided to strip the Alivio crankset, giving rings and the scabby looking quill stem a satin black makeover.

Tiny traces of powder can still infiltrate bungs and masking, so it's worth giving the bottom bracket shell and derailleur hanger a quick chase through before re-assembly. 

I treated Graham’s GT to a liberal helping of wax-based aerosol preserve. This has a slightly heavier solvent content, meaning the nozzle didn’t clog so readily and all the tubes were evenly coated within a few minutes.

Nonetheless, I deliver a more generous helping down the seat tube, which can then course around the frame in warmer temperatures. Blocking off the breathe holes was fashionable practice with some riders but these are designed to allow moisture to escape, hence I chase these through afterward.

Lashings of Muc-Off bio-grease http://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-bio-grease-long-term-test  were introduced to the headset bearings, bottom bracket shell, cantilever bosses threaded components and contact points.

Though not the thickest blend (or my all-time favourite), I’ve been amazed by its staying prowess. There was plenty of the “strawberry jam” smothering my Univega’s annular headset bearings, even after eighteen months hard service.

New cables and straddle wires are next. In the interests of saving time, we’ve kept the originals as rough templates. Once replacements arrive, I’ll wire everything up and begin fine tuning, exorcising play from the Timberline’s threaded headset. Wheels will also be given a quick once-over. Rim and tyre walls scrutinised, skewers and hub bearings re-greased where appropriate.  

Cream

Paint freshly cured and blemish free, my Univega's frameset grew accustomed to its new identity at centrally heated room temperature. I headed north on other missions and awaited the arrival of those chain-ring bolts for the 1x9 conversion. Several days hence, those bolts had arrived...

Long drives can leave me feeling wired, so I promised myself, I’d “Just do an hour”; treat the frame internally, get the headset, bars, stem, bottom bracket etc in…

Three hours later, I was a lot further along but reaching that dangerous tipping point-the one where thought processes become addled and mistakes made. At 1.30 am, I flopped into bed and resumed building after eight hours rest.

Everything breezed together with liberal helpings of fresh grease and minimal faff. On the subject of grease, I’ve been suitably impressed by the longevity of Green Oil eco grease that remained pretty conspicuous on fasteners and bottom bracket threads alike some months in. http://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-eco-grease  

Full-length mudguards certainly help but, I was also pleasantly surprised to discover a decent layer of Muc-Off grease still adorning the Stronglight Aheadset bearings. These had been pretty much untouched for two years.    

Rebuilding is an ideal opportunity to give components and accessories a really thorough scrub. Mudguards were purged of wintry sludge; corroded “stainless” fasteners were replaced, re-greased and snugged tight. Many miles in, its KMC X9-ept chain http://www.sevendaycyclist.com/kmc-x9-ept-chain was now well past the first flushes of youth and signalled another enforced break, while waited for its SRAM PC971 replacement to arrive.

Puncture season in full swing, I switched my attention to salvaging tubes. Having discovered my ‘cross inspired fixer’s front tyre pancake flat, I changed the tube, rounded up some other casualties and patched them for spares duty.

Two patches is my limit. Those sporting more; or larger lesions are decommissioned and reincarnated as top tube/chainstay protectors, headset or seat collar boots.

During the Univega’s makeover, Graham asked if I would drop by and strip his scabby old tart- a much loved, though world weary mid-90s GT Timberline.

It would’ve been ungrateful to decline, so, needing a break from the screen I popped in midweek. Two hours, one tin of penetrant spray and some nervous moments later, everything (including a seized UN30 cartridge bottom bracket!) relented.

Frameset bare and ready for the stripping tank, I turned my attentions to the Timberline’s grungy Alivio groupset. A liberal helping of Fenwicks’ FS1, some warm water and furious scrubbing later restored it to a socially acceptable and basically serviceable state.

While kinder to user and environment than my old friend, methyl chloride, the wispy vapour emanating from the other tank, always reminds me of the transporter scene in David Cronenberg’s visceral reworking of “The Fly”. Several minutes later and it had done a decent job of softening and partially stripping the existing finish.

Dredged from the chloride tank, things are basically dry. This one leaves a slightly slimy layer behind, which demands a few minutes longer in the blast cabinet.

After a few false starts, every last trace of residual paint and stickers were gone, leaving only a faintly dimpled, primer friendly surface behind. Graham’s going the blue route and has plenty of choice at his disposal.        

Elsewhere, there’s been a sudden swing to wintry weather. I’ve been thankful for my ‘cross inspired fixer’s quick, though dependable handling while chasing along lanes carpeted in thick slush.

Fixed offers that extra bit of feedback between tyres and surface. The ability to ease off gently against the transmission to slow, rather than pulling the front brake and being spat off is a definite plus! 

Midwinter Makeovers & Tales of The Unexpected

Having decided my beloved Univega was going the 1x9 route; I stripped the LX cranks and gave them a seriously good clean. Despite regular cold water rinsing and hard paste waxing, the salt monster had left his pock marked calling card in the anodised finish.   

To make matters worse, after almost twenty years, the flamboyant red enamel was starting to chip all too easily along the chainstays. Up until now, this recession had been held back with decent quality nail varnish but now demanded more remedial action.

 Maldon Shot Blasting & Powder Coating www.ctc-powder-coating.co.uk replied to my SOS email, confirming they’d be happy to sort.

Tuesday afternoon, I needed a break from the keyboard, so stripped the frameset bare and attempted to chase years of waxy home brewed frame preserve from its inner sanctum. This would, theoretically minimise the amount of prep the team had to perform before blasting and ultimately painting. 

Since we’re on the subject, be sure to tell your frame builder/spray shop there is Waxoyl, or similar preserve sloshing around inside. Otherwise, with the introduction of heat, it will become molten, race from the tubes and potentially scald them!

What lies beneath.....

Graham and Chris were taking no chances. When the industrial degreaser didn’t do the business, my frame was immersed in their methyl chloride tank for a few minutes...As the honey coloured gloop dissolved, racing to the surface in a raft of brown bubbles, those relatively thin enamel and primer coats followed suit. 

Much to our surprise, the Alpina 506’s tubes were also sporting a layer of corrosion busting nickel.

Though less of a slippery customer and kinder process than Chrome, chances are the factory enamellers had to use acid etch primers to persuade the paint to stick. It would also explain why, despite high, hell and high water mileages, seemingly bare metal hadn’t succumbed to the elements.

This was easily dismissed in the Iron oxide cabinet before the surface was treated to an even finer polymer bead... Next came that zinc rich epoxy powder primer. I’d plumped for cream this time round, classic and understated. Would coordinate with the bike’s existing kit perfectly too.

The zinc was cured at 150 degrees for 15minutes; cooler than text book and forum lore would suggest. I’m told the lower temperature achieves optimal fusion between the primer and colour coat. 

Higher temperatures would result in a more brittle finish, prone to chipping.

I’d gone for poly gloss buttermilk, which requires particular care. Though the flow rate ensures even coverage, flawless results are difficult given its tendency to drip and run during oven curing. This is also goes for other paints with low pigment.

Even when stored correctly, powder paints eventually “go-off”. This can result in a lumpy; or flawed final effect. Some tell-tale shadowy dimpling had struck along the down tube. Job-lot finishers would probably pass this but Graham was having none of it. Imperfect areas sanded, he disappeared in search of a match and returned with a small tub of “Interpon 610 cream”. 

Initial inspection suggested a peachy pigment but testing on some scrap proved otherwise. A full account is coming up in Seven Day Cyclist www.sevendaycyclist.com  but for now, I’ll leave you with this photo-love story.  Fancy something similar? A single, standard colour, such as this cream including blasting and zinc based primer start at £65. What’s next? Those refurbished cranks, of course.

Cables & Cut Downs

Winter is hard on components and kit. The Univega is the most obvious candidate for some sealed Jagwire road elite sealed brake and shift cables. The existing mid-range inners and budget outers were still in remarkably rude health but generally speaking, I replace control cables seasonally on competition bikes, annually on working bikes.

Impervious designs are nothing new but they’ve come a long way in the last few years.

Housings used to be inflexible builders-hose types, which were difficult to cut and tended to chomp through paintwork with alarming haste, especially when gritty, slimy stuff got trapped between the two. The Gear cable housings proved tough customers to snip, brakes easier than some bog standard benchmarks. 

Though supplied with finish-friendly, rubberised cuffs, Jagwire’s CSX outers are soft, pliable and easily pruned with decent cutters. Same goes for the stainless steel inner wires, which I am told are impregnated with a special polymer lubricant.

Corrosion is something of a moot point but these also feature a non-stick liner, designed to run the cables entire length, theoretically sealing it from grit, dirt and anything else that might impair performance.

Decent snips in hand, everything cuts and comes together beautifully. Stretch is supposedly another moot point. I was surprised to discover some sloppiness at the front lever-easily corrected by pulling the cable taught and snugging down the Avid’s pinch bolt. 

Budget cables by all accounts can lead happy and productive lives but they are prone to fraying and stretch. Traditional MO with these is to pull them taught and leave overnight. Next day, take up the slack, nip everything tight. Flush through with some PTFE based lube every few weeks and in my experience, they’ll plod on for a good six months or so.

The Univega’s rear cable run; though hardly torturous, isn’t the smoothest, high-quality cables make all the difference. Precise, Michael gratifying setup required some patience but rewarded with the slickest action I’ve experienced from the cheap but relatively cheerful cantilevers.

Force of habit usually sees me giving inner wires a quick fortnightly squirt of PTFE based lube but I’ve managed to resist and am exposing the system to wet, greasy roads wherever possible. So far, with zero maintenance, modulation and feel remain superior to mid range cables that I’ve traditionally run, then replaced annually.

Some will argue this level of performance is overkill for a daily driver. I disagree. So long as the groupset, new or old is of a decent calibre, it makes as much sense to have fit n’ forget cables as it does cartridge bearing bottom brackets, pedals, hubs etc.

Come the New Year, I’m going to cut the Univega down to a 1x9. This means I can lose the front mech, save a few grams and put the widely spaced cassette to better use.

Was tempted by a Shimano Zee crankset but having done one of my “January’s a long month, want or need” calculations; I’ve decided to use the existing LX spider. Chain-line is important, so I’ll be installing a shorter UN55 and using the swapping the 32 tooth for the 44. Shorter bolts and Tacx tool in post, it's a job for a quiet January afternoon.

In the meantime, for the budget conscious road fixer fraternity, we have a long term review of System EX track crankset http://www.sevendaycyclist.com/system-ex-crankset. There are better options for track racers wanting to stick with old school square tapers but for the money and winter fixed/single speed projects, it’s superior to some, similarly priced European competition.               

Having left the Univega basted in crap long enough to conclude of Pro Green MX aftershine 101 is a genuinely effective and long-lasting preserve http://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pro-green-mx-triple-pack I’ve been playing with a No quarter bike care kit.

No quarter is also specialist refinishers, offering powder coated and bespoke wet spray makeovers. Therefore, I was expecting something pretty special.  This full ensemble comprises of bike shampoo, assorted sponges, detailing brushes, carnauba hard paste wax and of course, micro-fibre cloths-two in fact.  

Packaging takes its lead from the cosmetics industry and yes, the wax has a really pleasant fragrance.  Unlike traditional bike washes, which are deployed via trigger spray, you pour four capfuls into a bucket of warm water and whip it up into a thick, sudsy lather.

I was quite impressed at that point and though purporting to be kind to ALL surfaces, I wasn’t surprised to discover it’s not the most visually impressive of formulas. That said; it does a decent job of loosening ground in filth-cocktails of slime, spent derv, oil, and road salt, caked on cowpats too. Aside from scent, the wax seems very similar to other hard pastes purporting similar properties.

Fairly economical-a little of both products goes surprisingly far, though overall effect hasn’t been so rich, or glossy as I’d expected. That said; the wax appears to remove some light corrosion and its protective qualities appear pretty good to date...Sleet, snow and similar wet stuff is forecast over the coming weeks, so let’s see how it holds up.