Frankensets

 

I’d continued to build Ursula in short, little and often bursts. I’d instated the Microshift bar con, replaced a tube in the rear Ryde XT wheel and inflated the Continental Cross Kings to 55psi and then began contemplating Ursula’s bar tape. Change for changes sake, a new era? I didn’t want to say goodbye to the Cycology 8 days Cycology 8 days Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) just yet, but fate (and the elements) had other ideas. I’ve gone for the Acros Silicone Bar Wrap LONG-TERM TEST: ACROS SILICONE BAR WRAP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) the orange rather than blue, given winter’s looming. It's easily wrapped and naturally sticky, so no need for a backing adhesive, which makes cable swaps that bit easier.   

While I pondered this, my place in the Universe etc., I decided to install a fresh set of Microshift bar cons. There was nothing wrong with the original left shifter, but I decided since I needed to fit the rear bar con, I may as well go for uniformity at this stage. I want the rebuild right, from the off. Jagwire Road Elite sealed cables (173g complete and uncut) were also installed but fatigue left me convinced I’d a full set of derailleur cables. I had several inners but only one outer and one complete set of ferrules. I left everything snug but not pruned and decided to quit while ahead.   

The following day, I managed to whip the rear wheel in, set up the rear brake calliper and fitted a KMC chain, using the sleeping hub to hold everything in alignment. I’ll dial in the rear mech another time, probably when the front mech cable arrives. Meantime, I’ve popped the Acros tape (left side) into the wash.  All was going well until I tried the headset. Having stripped the Stronglight unit, I discovered it wasn’t all it seemed- a frankenset, made from bits of headsets. I had another, a cartridge model bought a while back and yep, despite being in a sealed envelope, was also missing parts. Bottom line, I was weary of wasting any more time, removed the Stronglight and bought an FSA, consigning the former to the bin.   

Elsewhere, the ORP Smart HornTESTED: ORP SMART HORN (sevendaycyclist.com) has returned to my fixed gear winter/trainer’s Genetic D-Riser 4 bars GENETIC DRISER 4 HANDLEBARS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) The two-tone powder coat finish is enjoying its 9th birthday and is still in great shape. Though wet has been the primary narrative of the past fortnight, I found time to give the bike a seriously good clean, removed the seat post and blasted some of the waxy corrosion inhibitor inside.  I hung it up for a few days, switching to Denise for some fun along the lanes, allowing the fixed’s corrosion inhibitor to cure thoroughly.   

More lights have been coming our way-as you’d expect, given we’re entering the darker season. Magicshine See Mee 100AD Rear Light, which can produce, you guessed it, 100lumens. AD stands for Auto Detect, referring to the sensor system, which produces a more intense flashing light when it senses another vehicle approaching. It can also be synced with other compatible taillights for heightened presence.  

Not forgetting the Alty 800 V2.0/1200/1200U front lights. IPX6 for weatherproofing seems increasingly to be the default, which is good news for most consumers. It’s not waterproof in the submersible sense, but will certainly fend off very heavy rain, standing water, mud too, in my experience.  

I’ve not had too much issue with lights confirming to the lowlier IPX4 over the years- at least for road biased duties. However, there have been occasions when I’ve needed to flush a drowned unit out with a few liberal blasts of water displacer.  

Formative impressions suggest the See Mee 100AD sensor is very accurate and the flash deployed remarkably effective at grabbing and holding attention. Theoretically, this should mean being able to run a lower setting, conserving power and letting the intelligent technology do its thing when other vehicles approach.  

This doesn’t come naturally to me. Surrendering to tech’s mercy isn’t something that sits naturally with me but in the interests of testing. I’ll give it a go. The relatively flat lens design also aroused some minor concerns around peripheral presence, say when crossing junctions etc. but the projected light seems to counter this.  

Another nice feature is mount compatibility with others in the SeeMee family, so I can just switch places with the See Mee 50Mag, or indeed, the SeeMee100 and SeeMee 200 V2 without any issues. Super convenient and very welcome. It also makes sense from the vantage point of manufacturing economics.      

You Never Know What’s around the Corner.

 

Belting along a wet, greasy backroad, just past sunrise I was suddenly serenaded by an awful loss of traction and disconcerting chatter- the fixed’s chain had derailed. I’m not sure who was more horrified- me, or the feline preening itself as I entered the bend. Pulling over to the left I discovered it had mysteriously jammed between the chain tugs. A moment of panic quickly subsided, and I reached inside the Topeak MTX Trunk Dry BagTopeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)for my Pedros Trixie and Pedros’ multi tool, so I could slacken the tug and the track nut.  

I was relieved to find these and doing so released the chain without incident. I hooked it back on the sprocket and front ring checked alignment and snugged the track nut down, ditto the chain tug. Tension sorted, I continued, relieved I wouldn’t be doing a ten-mile walk of shame. I’d just pulled in at home and discovered the front WTB Exposure rapidly losing pressure.  

Well, if it was going to happen, now would be most convenient. One thing led to another. Popped the fixed gear winter/trainer on the work stand, whipped out the wheel and traced the flat to a hedge clipping buried in the tyre’s shoulder. I nearly missed it, having swept my hand around the Exposure’s casing, found nothing and instated a new tube. Thankfully, I was able to free it with this set of needle-nose pliers. Tyre remounted and 70psi inside, I found myself busy with sudsy bucket and Green Oil Massive brush, giving my faithful friend a good clean.  

While cleaning the Spyre SLC calliper, I noticed the semi-metallic pads were OK but showing signs of wear. With more taxing conditions coming, sintered seemed the way forward. Always prudent to have consumables set by, since stuff often wears out at the least convenient moments. I also found another two 10speed chains while having a rummage for a suitable tube (not wanting to deplete the on-bike supply). The Ravemen LR1000 continues to impress me with its output and features- the ability to extend run times, refuel tech and indeed, the battery via another battery or power bank. The Wired remote doesn’t come with the package, I got curious and tried that belonging to the LR500 but being a few years old, the port end was micro-USB, while the LR1000 is the contemporary USB C.  

 I’ve also received this Zefal Supervision R150, which as the name suggests is a rear light producing 150lumens.  IPX6 for weatherproofing bodes well for wet winters and 5 modes (3 steady, two flashing) continue the practical narrative. I’m pleased to note a 15-lumen steady, which is punchy but not overpowering for town duties. The flashing are 150 and 50 lumens, which is great for daylight running and dark nights but overkill for other contexts, which may be a turn off for some. Weirder is the fact it isn’t supplied with a USB C charge cable. Given these things are ubiquitous and dirt cheap (unless that’s the logic for its omission) I’m astonished as to why one hasn’t been tossed in as standard. There are some other interesting quirks. The switch requires a sustained three-second press before the light will power up/down, a second longer than typical these days, which initially convinced me I must have a duff unit that wasn’t charging properly .      

Bike cleaned, re-lubed and put away, it was time to do a quick stint with Ursula. Fitting the headset and forks, specifically. Everything came together nicely, the new Stronglight unit given a liberal bed of Juice Lubes Bearing Juice.   

Inspecting the long serving One23 stem led me to pensioning it off- there was some weakness around the lips. It had done ten years or so and owed nothing. Took a while to track down a suitable substitute, but this ZOOM has proven to be perfect-a quick game of musical spacers and all sorted.  I also ordered some fresh stainless steel bottle boss screws from another supplier.  

I’m all for re-using good stuff but rebuilds are an opportunity to inspect, evaluate and replace things, as necessary. Unless they’re dog eared, I tend to put unwanted fasteners into the spares pot and carry a couple in a sealed packet on the bike, just in case I should lose something-a mudguard, or light mount for example. These and the cages were fitted during the same session and using the Oxford Mint Assembly Grease.        

Switches & Ursula's Return

 

I’d returned from the puncture marked ride and decided it was time to give Denise another deep clean, make some gentle tweaks and switch to the fixed gear winter trainer for a little while. This proved an ideal opportunity to put the Green Oil Massive Brush to good use. The added length and softer bristle plot mean it’s effective for all areas of the bike and kind to all surfaces, including paintwork.  I’ve always been fond of the original, standard model but the stiffer bristle plot means it’s better suited to wheels, tyres, bar tape and drivetrain components.    

As for the fixed, well I need to get some serious miles on the WTB Exposure, especially to assess their wet weather prowess and puncture resistance. Getting the balance between ride quality, reliability and durability is a difficult one. A tyre that delivers a spirited, engaging, and compliant ride but without flatting at the first hint of a flint is no mean feat. I’m generally fond of Schwalbe One 365 but have some quiet reservations about the puncture repelling belt, which only covers the centre strip.  

A moot point during a dry summer but wet roads serve as a lubricant. Sure, rolling resistance will drop but the water gives sharps easier passage inside the tyre casing. Anecdotally, others have praised the WTB Exposure’s compliance, speed and puncture resistance, so we’ll see. I’m hoping so. Formative impressions are of a very swift, compliant ride with excellent feedback when cornering on wet roads. A few hundred miles will reveal more. Wetter, characteristically autumnal weather has also presented an opportunity to get miles in with the Madison Flux Waterproof Trail Gloves.  

Flat palms are something of a bum steer. Padding density though uniform, is generous, giving excellent defence against low lever vibration without compromising connection with the bars and controls. Silicone detailing is less extensive than some but effective nonetheless and the detailing on thumb and fore finger make for excellent connectivity between touch screen devices. However, rummaging in pockets and operating trusty compact camera is proving trickier- especially on the fly. Thus far, the waterproof backs are doing their thing with similar aplomb and the extensive terry panel is great for taming runny noses etc.  Here’s my review of the Cycology Life Behind Bars MTB Gloves Cycology Life Behind Bars MTB Gloves | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

As or the Shimano MW7, well I’m equally smitten. I remain a major fan of the MW5 but the MW7’s boa closure ensures a precise, almost custom fit. The sole is palpably stiffer, much closer to the RX7, which is particularly apparent when accelerating hard or keeping a high, smooth cadence, especially on the fixed.  

I’ve decided to raise the fixed’s saddle height by a centimetre or two and, having removed the post’s binder bolt was amused by how well the Weldtite Carbon Gripper held everything inline! Thankfully, it moved with minimal effort. I added some Mint Assembly Grease to the binder bolt while I was at it. 

As for Ursula. Well, Winston and Mario had sorted the repairs, modifications and refinishing. I received a message from Winston asking me to arrange collection before the weekend. Within twenty minutes, I’d organised and paid a courier, passing on the relevant info. Given it was Tuesday, Thursday was the earliest pick up.   

I was keen to get the old girl back, for a wealth of obvious reasons. (a) We’ve been through so much and covered so many miles together (b) I was eager to see the repair, refurb and modernisation in the flesh. (c) I wanted to complete the rebuild before winter. Winston had sent camera shot images of the work at various stages. Useful as progress snapshots and welcome but not an accurate representation of the frame finish etc, especially under tungsten light.   

Emerging from the box, I was relieved to find she’d survived the parcel destroyers unscathed and was the shade of grey I’d hoped for. The first thing I wanted to do was fill her inner sanctum with corrosion inhibitor.  I’d run out of my home brewed “hillbilly Waxoyl” so decided to go for a commercial formula instead.  

J Weigel’s Framesaver is another popular, frame specific staple. One I’ve used to good effect in the past. Ditto Pro Gold Steel Frame Protector. However, on this occasion. I spotted some more generic automotive prep designed for door sections and sills, lending itself nicely to KA and Micra duties, too. It’s essentially a wax type formula, so should go the distance, especially since I’ve applied during a dry and relatively mild period.   

The other option was to drop some 10W40 motor oil inside the seat tube and using GT85, or similar, to chase it around the frame. I’ve left Ursula sat on old newspaper overnight to absorb any residual and will then get busy with the Zefal Skin Armor ZEFAL SKIN ARMOR ROLL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  to protect against cable rub and related damage before commencing the big build.