Sorting the Small Stuff

Holiday season has been about sorting the small jobs. Some that can be a little fiddlier than first thought, others that subvert trouble, (which would otherwise strike at the least convenient moment). As often happens, one thing led to another. Having popped Ursula back on her hook, I inspected my fixed gear winter/trainer’s TRP Sypre SLC. A quick spin of the wheel and pump of the lever revealed binding pads and a badly frayed able at the TRP caliper’s pinch bolt.  

No deliberation there, time for replacement. Cables are another area where it’s worth spending a bit extra, particularly with discs, in my experience. I’ve gone for the stainless TRP with compression less housing. Much easier to setup, not least since there’s no/minimal cable stretch. Feed through, tension, snug tight, pump the lever ten times...done.  

A close friend and I were recently discussing hydraulics and why I hadn’t taken that route. I concluded it's more about complication, rather than cost. Sure, there’s no arguing with their refinement, and a well setup hydraulic system can largely be left to its own devices, save for periodic bleeding.  Even so, a cable is more convenient to acquire, especially if something should go pear shaped miles from home/civilisation. Besides, I’m familiar and fond of the TRP Spyre and its marginally more upmarket SLC sibling.   

Since I had to unwrap the Velo Orange Rubbery Bar Tape VELO ORANGE RUBBERY BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) to perform the cable swap, I took the opportunity to switch to this Ciclovation Grind Touch Grind tape, which superficially, looks almost identical to the Velo Orange.  

To my surprise, density is 3mm, whereas the Velo Orange is 3.5mm but the backing adhesive is superior. A gummy, rather than sticky strip, meaning it’s easier to install and correct, should need arise. It also bodes well, for cable and other replacements, later down the line, when things have weathered a little. Trail distribution also kindly sent me a Lelumia The Beast Trail Light, which boasts a 150lumen day flash and a couple of 100lumen flashing modes, and a 65lumen alt flash.  

All have promise impressive run times- between 4 and 18 hours. Alas, mine’s yert to arrive-seems one was pilfered in the post, so another has been released.  I’ve also received this Topeak Tailux30 USB Rear Light. As the name suggests, it delivers a maximum of 30lumens and three modes, from the twin diodes. 30 hour run time in the flashing mode is also very favourable but only real-world miles will tell.  

Recent years have seen a resurgence in the lumens race, to the point where some lights pump out 450 lumens in daylight running mode. However, I’ve traditionally found 30 lumens potent enough for town, through to semi-rural contexts and adequate for the backroads.  

I’m still fond of the Night Rider Solas and more recently, Ravemen TR30 M Rear Light RAVEMEN TR30M REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which also uses two diodes. Lumens aren’t the only gauge mind. I’ve found Ravemen CL05 Sensored Rear Light RAVEMEN CL05 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and Its CLO6 sibling RAVEMEN CL06 SENSORED REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) far more visible than numbers alone suggest.    

 

Ursula clearly got jealous, responding with some front brake squeal/judder. Easily rectified with a quick tweak of the pads, straddle wire and some subtle snugging down. I’d given the pads a glaze check-nothing doing, and I knew the rim was relatively clean- squeaky, once I'd given the old girl and thorough sudsy bucket scrub. I also took this opportunity to slot the Torque Covert7 Crank Multitool into the Deore Crank.  

 

Grot, scuzz, gunge, slurry...Whatever your pet name for winter’s slimy cocktail, there’s usually a fair bit that lodges within the cassette, derailleur and ring(s). Especially if you are using a wet chain lube. I got busy with the cassette claw and some neat degreaser, which scooped away the lion’s share of skanky stuff. 

During the cold, darker months, products like Weldtite Jet Blast Degreaser WELDTITE JET BLAST DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) are potent, super convenient starters. Strong solvents melt the congealed, oily mess. Agitate with a stiff bristled brush, adding some less intense degreaser, scrub and then rinse with tepid water. Blends, including Muc Off Ludicrous AF require a most sustained marinate. MUC OFF LUDICROUS AF CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Household washing-up liquids are something I’d generally avoid but are also surprisingly effective. If you must go this route, say on a cassette, whip the wheel out, scrub with the cassette pointing toward the ground. Rinse, first using warm and then cold water. Rinse any splashes from painted, plated, polished, and anodised surfaces, too.  

As many will point out, citrus degreasers are also very aggressive, so take similar precautions, and even on a plated surface, such as a cassette, or chain, don’t exceed 2 minutes before rinsing and drying.   

Then of course, there’s been tube patching, segregating those which are easily repaired and those, which are essentially bin fodder. Patches and vulcanising solution are pivotal to successful salvage. For me, Rema Tip Top are the best going, although I’ve had good results from Hutchinson, as shown in the photo, and Decathlon’s kits have been a pleasant surprise, too.      

 

Midwinter Retrospective

Christmas is always a tricky time for me, and for many, my desire to hunker down and reflect peacefully can be quite perturbing. Those close to me know there’s nothing to worry about and generally leave me to emerge, in my own time.  

Christmas morning and the child-like wonder gripped me. Time for the first outing with Ursula’s newly built dyno hub wheel. Due in part, to the Schwalbe Landcruiser being a few hundred grams lighter than the ultra-dependable Schwalbe Marathon 365, acceleration was refreshingly brisk, despite the wind.  

There had been little relent in the rainfall for a few nights and overspill from the fields had formed small lakes along the lanes, resulting in the gentle swoosh as the Landshark and Mondial pairing cut through the greasy, mucky broth. No such thing as the wrong weather, only the wrong kit I mused, as rain rolled from the Oxford Venture jacket. 

The FLR defender booties and waterproof socks and a slightly lower gear kept blood flow and feet comfortable.  

Engaging the front Tektro based “franken canti” revealed all was well on the toe-in front. No squeal, judder or nastiness, just serene, progressive stopping. Formative impressions of the SD8 hub suggests characteristics are very similar to its SL9 sibling HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com)  in the sense output can dip a little at the lower speeds but I’ve had no issues at 14mph plus.  

I need to take this time to inspect the old Rigida Snyper rim for wear and pension off, as appropriate. The Snyper were a solid, cheerful touring hoop and mine has been super dependable over ten years and countless thousand miles down the line. If it is heading for the Great Bike Shop in the Sky, I think I’ll have the 13-year-old Shimano hub built into another Ryde Andra 40...  

But then, do I acquire a modern, disc brake hub as well, to “futureproof things” ...Hmm, best park that thought for now, there’s plenty going on.  I’ve been doing a little re-touch of the Project 2 fork-applied a thin coat of phosphate primer and several thin coats of gloss black paint, leaving several hours between them. I also applied a thin helping of hide food to leather saddles to keep them protected and nourished. This is something II generally do every six weeks with traditional leather saddles, although some brands recommend longer intervals, which I observe. CARING FOR LEATHER SADDLES | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)   

As we weaved around the twisting bends, up ahead a family of red deer crossed the road and an Oxford/BMW Mini lay stricken in a ditch. Stopping confirmed it had been abandoned- no one was trapped inside, so I continued our otherwise silent and uninterrupted loop. Inexperience, too much Christmas spirit, who knows. Crucially no one appears hurt as a result.    

Looking back on the year and Ursula’s continual evolutions, I was surprised by just how many changes I’ve made over the past 12 months. Most of the drivetrain components were replaced due to wear and tear. Aside from chains and cassettes, the long-serving Shimano Deore LX cranks were beginning to lose their threads, prompting the upgrade to Hollowtech II.  

A couple of months later, I upgraded the rear wheel, since the rim was beginning to deteriorate- it was a cheap but very cheerful example, which had served faithfully for five harsh winters, so didn’t owe us anything. Deore hubs are reliable enough, but if I was going to replace, I may as well upgrade. An XT laced to a Rigida Sputnik was too good to pass up. Then of course, there was the Kinekt 2.1 post KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which was another refinement that had completed my original vision of an otherwise rigid, all-terrain, go-anywhere, four seasons’ build. A concept that originally lit my fuse during an English class in March 87. A Muddy Fox Trailblazer, spotted in Bicycle Magazine, for the curious. A couple of years later, Specialized's Rock Combo just turned things up a notch.  

I switched the Sun Race Brifters for Micro Shift Bar end and Tektro levers, which was another good move, and since I was there, the Soma Condor 2 SOMA CONDOR 2 SHALLOW DROP BARS | (sevendaycyclist.com). The original Condor was a great bar, seemingly perfect for the design brief and the only reason I switched was because the Condor 2 was doing something close to nothing. If I was going to experiment, then was the time. 

Finally, the Sun Race Driven NRX rear mech imploded, replaced by a Tiagra. In many respects, close to a complete rebuild, but aside from some refinements/indulgences, and the mech’s untimely demise, components owed me and the “old girl” nothing. Ah, now my fixed gear winter trainer’s brake has got the sulks-a frayed inner wire. No time like the present...Maybe it got jealous...