I decided to break fitting into two sessions. Primarily since there was quite a bit going on and am a subscriber to the measure thrice, cut once school of steerer tube pruning. After all, you can always lop a bit off, or add another spacer. You *can’t* add more fork steerer tube.(I know it is technically possible, but highly impractical, especially when it comes to aluminium alloy).
Some will point out that you don’t need a dedicated cutting guide and, taken to its lowest common denominator this is also true. However, guides make life considerably easier and reduces the risk of potentially costly mishaps. However, a decent quality hacksaw, marker and steady hand are imperative.
Preamble aside, having pruned the steerer to the desired length, I quit while ahead and started installation the following afternoon. I had been more conservative when cutting the steerer, so rounded up some additional spacers to compensate. Wheel removed, cable ties for mudguard (fenders), dynamo cabling and computer sensor snipped, it was time to perform the switch.
The most complex part was juggling everything in situ (only to discover I needed to switch the spacers around). Blessing in disguise, it gave an opportunity to re-grease the Aheadset bearings (Last done six months back). Park Tool Polylube 1000 TESTED: PARK TOOL POLYLUBE 1000 LUBRICANT FOR BICYCLES (sevendaycyclist.com) to the rescue. Besides, I wanted to use the tube up, since it had burst along the seam.
A quick lick to the Gusset Headlock’s threaded parts since I was there and shot of spray grease inside Ursula’s inner sanctum rounded things off nicely. Even doing the crude, juggle n’ lift comparison test, the new carbon set was palpably lighter than the very likeable 4130 Cro-Moly “school chair” pair.
Everything together, pre-load set, I reintroduced the wheel and tethered cabling to the new fork leg and was just about to tether the mudguard (fender) stays when I noted a distinct lack of graceful curve. After some contemplation, it was clear that I’d need to trim the stays down a bit. I have chosen the cable tie route since this was discrete and yet stable arrangement.
Topeak Versa mount are another alternative, although I’ve seen some riders employ “Banjo clips” commonly employed in plumbing and other applications. However, if you are going this route, regardless of fork material, make a shim from cut down inner tube to protect the finish.
Admittedly, the mudguard’s curve isn’t as graceful as first hoped but stable and functional. I also switched this “universal” computer sensor magnet for a Cat-Eye unit. To some extent, one magnet is much the same as any other and in my experience, many have proven interchangeable. Sensors tend to be model specific, although, from time to time, I've got lucky when plundering the spares box.
However, the profiles can be incompatible with some setups too thick and thus strike the disc calliper. Precisely the issue with my fixed gear winter trainer-hence the switch around. A stock of spacers always comes in handy. I’ve replenished supplies of these and some M5 bottle bolts since those belonging to my working bikes were past their prime.
I managed to restrain my “Child at Christmas” urges and resisted the temptation to nip out for a shakedown ride the following morning. Wanted to cast fresh eyes over everything first. Saturday came. A quick once over and I headed out for a 90-minute dawn meander.
Formative impressions are favourable.
Aside from a palpably lighter front end, they seem to provide a compliant ride over washboard tarmac. I pulled over at one point to tweak the Aheadset- an easy two-minute job-once I’d found my multi tool. Pondered 15mm spacer beneath the stem, for improved aesthetics and possibly tenure at that point. Went that route several days later and, famous last words, I won’t meddle with this arrangement.
I'll leave you with my review of the Shimano MT701 GTX SPD Shoes Shimano MT701 GTX SPD Shoes | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)
