Hubs n' Hoops

 Shutter Precision got in touch, inviting me to test their SD8 hub, which is very timely, given recent events. The S series is apparently, the lightest, smallest models in the Shutter Precision range. In this instance, reckoned to tip the scales at 350g. By mine, it's 399g.  

After a decade or so, the Halo Aerotrack wheel is needing some slight TLC. Nothing major- tensioning the spokes, new axle and bearings. The former had started shedding threads, so an opportune moment to fit new cartridge units, while the hub is open. Manufacturers and their UK distributors have been extremely helpful and despite the UK’s third country status, some brands in mainland Europe have also reciprocated. Again, greatly appreciated.  

Given this backdrop, I am going to build the PD8 built into a 26-inch wheel, a spare wheel for Ursula, should the Ultegra unit require servicing/rebuilding. Similarly, though still very solid, rims don’t last forever, even with the most disciplined maintenance. I’ve acquired a 32-hole Ryde Andra 40, which isn’t the lightest but promises to be strong and dependable. While hardly obsolete, 26 –inch mtb is no longer the default, so choice is a little less plentiful than it was, say a decade back.  

I’ve always erred toward a little overbuild, especially on touring, working and mountain bikes- save for cross country racing.  In some respects, the Rigida Sputnik would’ve been a more obvious choice and the Andra have a reputation for being tricky to build, hence why I’ve commissioned Mick Madgett with the job. The other reason I’m having a “second” wheel built for Ursula boils down in part, to the fact the Rigida Snyper rim has served ten years and though seemingly solid, won’t last forever. 

I’ll inspect it properly while I’m testing the SD8.  

Talking of overbuild, I’ve formed a fond bond with the Sigma Buster 200 FL, which though less potent than some, on paper, remains very relevant and versatile enough for most riding contexts. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/sigma-sport-buster-hl-2000    

The weather has only just become recognisably autumnal and despite apocalyptic forecasts, conditions are still permitting stock tyres. The Muc-Off Ludicrous AF chain lube is still clinging on, although cleat and brake mechanisms, pivot points etc are needing the odd short of Jokker 440 to keep them sweet and crud free. This presented an ideal opportunity to tweak Ursula’s rear brake slightly. Not that I employ the rear brake very often, but I want it sweet, responsive, and dependable.

  

 Weekly sudsy bucket washes and periodic waxing are a must right now. The single application of Muc Off Ludicrous AF chain lube was finally relenting, so time to purge the residual and modest contaminant. I was promised another blend of tenacious chain lube, so until that arrives, I’ve returned to the Weldtite Ceramic WELDTITE CERAMIC LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

I’ve also been promised some very refined bar tape. I haven’t decided whether Ursula, or my fixed gear winter/trainer, will be the recipient, much will depend on whether I switch to the Tektro RL520 lever sooner, or later.  Though hefty, Schwalbe Marathon GT365 TESTED: SCHWALBE MARATHON GT 365 BICYCLE TYRES (sevendaycyclist.com) are super dependable, offering excellent traction and moreover, puncture resistance through the dark, slimy, slippery roads. 

I run wider sections, where possible (a) Provides greater cushioning from the lumps and bumps that creep in (b) Improved contact with the road surface. High-quality suspension posts are another definite plus, giving some additional refinement along winter roads and trails, without the heft and complication of suspension forks.    

Cane Creek Thudbuster ST G3 TESTED: CANE CREEK THUDBUSTER ST SEATPOST (sevendaycyclist.com) and G4 and Kinekt 2.1 Suspension Seatpost KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), (which is still offered in a 25.4 diameter) so an excellent, dare I say, viable option for older mountain bike framesets converted to working bikes, rough stuff tourers, or indeed, gravel builds. Just don’t skimp on the shim. They’re not expensive but even at the upper end, £20 is much cheaper than the cost of frame repair, or worst-case scenario, scrappage.  

    

Winter-specific thermal kit has been donned- bib longs, long sleeve base layers, thermal jerseys, gilet, and full-finger gloves. Despite a generous thatch, I’ve also reached for thicker caps and socks. The mercury has slid to minus figures, although thankfully, no ice, just arctic blasts, and sleety interludes   

Turning lower gears means a higher cadence and improved blood flow, so cold doesn’t bite so intrusively. I’ve also switched to the FLR Defender MTB Thermal Dry S-Tex Boot FLR DEFENDER MTB DRY BOOT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com

That'll Be A New Set Of Bearings, Then...

No matter how well you maintain things, stuff wears out-at least that’s how I’m consoling myself. A matter of weeks since I replaced the Halo Fix-G hub’s cartridge bearings, the Shutter Precision PD8 HALO CLASSIC RIM & SHUTTER PRECISION DYNOHUB DISC WHEEL BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) has succumbed to the dreaded bearing slop. Both have managed four years, year-round service before getting the grumbles. Ursula’s Shimano Ultegra remains in rude health almost a decade down the line and exposed to similar conditions. I should stress that I swerve jet washes and any other seal-breaching nastiness.  

However, while the Fix-G HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting are user-serviceable, the majority of “Ship in a Bottle” dyno hubs must be shipped back to the factory. Thankfully, I have switched to its SL9 cousin. Mercifully, the Shimano centre lock disc rotor was still in rude health, although it seemed a little thicker than the six-bolt Spyre. This just meant winding the pads out very slightly, and I took this opportunity to double-check the caliper’s alignment- be rude not to.    

Stuff wears out, eventually, even if you care for it. However, it always seems to strike at the least convenient time. I like to think myself stoic and pragmatic, but I'll confess the past two years have been quite taxing. A seemingly relentless pandemic coupled with the freefall induced by a popularist puppet heading the UK’s governing party, which has neutered the UK and is increasingly leaving it isolated.    

Since the 2016 referendum, there’s been a palpable drift towards xenophobia and indeed, the mainstream acceptance of it. Authoritarian popularism is indeed on the rise elsewhere in Europe- it has often lapped at the shorelines of France and Italy’s political landscape. These things never end well, as history documents with terrifying detail.      

 

Several years down the line and I've also noted some minor slop in the Cane Creek SC5 V Brake drop Levers CANE CREEK V BRAKE DROP BAR LEVERS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and the anodized finish is also past the first flush of youth, where it can’t be seen, so they’ll stay. Thankfully, I’ve found a right hand Tektro RL520.. These were designed for linear-pull and last employed on Ursula 12 years back. I enjoy a rummage through the spares bin when I turn up something perfect, that I otherwise might have to pay for.   

Wheel and stopping sorted, I tweaked the chain tension (for some bizarre reason, the wheel had also gone off centre), raised the saddle by a few milimetres too. This was all rounded off with a sudsy bucket wash and hard paste waxing to protect painted, anodised and lacquered surfaces from winter’s wrath.   

Lights are generally very reliable these days, but I always run two rear lights (sometimes a third, if it's tethered to luggage) just in case the main unit should go roque and power down in the arse end of nowhere. Cue the Xeccon Mars 60’s sudden shut down.  

Charge life indicator said green before I set out. A waning lithium-ion cell is one explanation, the “Braking” function sapping juice being another. Either way, I had the Ravemen TR30M RAVEMEN TR30M REAR LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) clinging to Ursula’s right hand seat stay. Yes, I know, being a dynamo devotee, I really must get a rider powered rear. 

No sign of the impending “artic” blasts proclaimed by the tabloids (presumably as a distraction from the UK’s multiple crisies), so for the time being, the fixed will stick with the Kenda Kwick Journey KS plus KENDA KWICK JOURNEY TYRES | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) /Bontrager and Ursula’s Schwalbe mix n’ match pairing. First hint of abominable snowmen, blizzards etc and I'll switch to the spikes, pronto.  I’m impressed with the Mud Hugger Gravel Hugger Mudguards MUD HUGGER GRAVEL HUGGER MUDGURADS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), which are doing a decent job of keeping me dry and keeping the fixed from a decent amount of scuzzy stuff.   

There are plenty of maintenance sprays around these days. Unfortunately, most contain Teflon (PTFE) which, though useful is toxic. It’s widely recognised as being unkind to seals and other rubberised components. However, it’s not good for electricals either. I’ve tended to err towards Vaseline for dynamo contacts but then along came some Motorex Joker Spray. It's essentially a water displacing “lubricant” type similar in design brief to WD40, and Castrol DWF. So far, the formula looks stockier than the iconic and arguably universally recognisable blue can.  

Dynamo connectors aside, I’ve applied some to work stand clamps, lock mechanisms, spark plugs/car electricals, cleat mechanisms. Not 100% sure when it comes to elastomers, such as those common to Cane Creek Thud Buster ST G3 TESTED: CANE CREEK THUDBUSTER ST SEATPOST (sevendaycyclist.com)  and similar suspension posts, so I've opted for the brands’ silicone spray.