Sitting On It

 

I’ve always liked a bargain but there’s a significant difference between bargain and false economy. Often, it’s a very subtle differential in price too. I’ve reasoned that if I’m typically returning 1300miles from a ten-speed chain, especially during winter, then there’s some sense in economising here. I default to KMC these days, but my search engine flagged up a 116 link Clarks for £8.99.  

All that glitters is not gold, or indeed nickel plated. I opted for two slightly cheaper KMC, keeping them in stock until Ursula and Denise’s existing chains reach .7 on the chain checker. Chains, cables, brake pads and the odd cassette are parts I like to keep in stock, since they usually fail at the least convenient point and in the case of chains, can wear remarkably quickly.  

While Ursula’s front RL340 proved an effective job of commanding the TRP Spyre, upgrading it to a 520 was the right move. I’ve re-discovered the 340 pairing, and will put these aside for Denise, should need arise, now I’ve decided the non-aero route was but a 5-minute wonder. I’d also toyed with popping some new hoods on an old set of Campagnolo Athena (which if I recall were reversible) but boils down to change for changes sake, essentially and not the best use of my time.   

I’ve replaced Ursula’s front pads with these DiscoBrakes Sintered Brake Pads | cycling-not-racing since I was doing a deep clean. That said; I was pleasantly surprised to discover once I’d removed the sludgy grime, a decent amount of pad material remained on the substituted pair. I’ve popped them away in my disc pads packet and will re-use another time.      

Left unchecked a worn chain will chomp through more expensive drivetrain components-cassettes, rings and derailleurs. This is particularly costly on a touring lorry with old school triple setup. Keeping a touring triple on song year-round can be something of a chore, so changing the chain just before it’s spent saves time, money and hassle. Rim wear is also rapid, if your bike(s) run rim brakes and don’t keep an eye on pad health. Regularly cleaning them of grit and other embedded muck will extend the life of both, with relatively little effort and save a lot of money long term.    

Talking of tourers, Raleigh’s Sojourn was an interesting model which I spent quite a bit of time testing back in 2012.  

However, despite handsome looks and some definite charms, with the stock wheelset it was less responsive and engaging than I’d come to expect, even from a traditional tourer, which is designed to handle predictably while hauling the kitchen sink. The sojourn sprung back from the vaults of my bike testing consciousness when someone posted their much modified and recently re-finished (powder coated) example.  

Despite some definite charm, I would upgrade the wheelset- probably to Ryde Sputnik, XT rear, Nexus, or Alfine Shimano Alfine UR700 Hub Dynamo | cycling-not-racing dynohub up front. Rubber-wise, and assuming we’re going the full mudguard (fender) route) I’d go for something like the Pirelli Angel DT Urban c. 37mm Pirelli Angel DT Urban Tyre | cycling-not-racing. I’d possibly ditch the metal guards for chrome plastics, too. Though functional enough, I was never really taken with Avid BB5, or other single piston mechanical callipers, finding them tricky to adjust and prone to rub.  

They’d be substituted for TRP Spyre and decent quality sealed cables, such as these Jagwire Road Elite Sealed Brake Kit Jagwire Road Elite Sealed Brake Kit | cycling-not-racing   Staying with the stock theme, I’d also switch the Sora brifters for Tektro RL520 and bar cons of some description. Alternatively, something like Kona Dew Drop might be a better starting point. Much of it for me comes down to the right price.    

I’ve done enough time sat on the WTB Rocket saddle, which has proven very agreeable to my derriere, despite being narrower than my bike fit ideal WTB Rocket Saddle | cycling-not-racing. It’s offered ample support, the subtle pressure relieving channel has done its thing competently, without fuss, or fanfare.  Contact points generally, and saddles specifically are very personal things and not an exact science.  

With a favourite go-to technical shell coming to the end of its useful life, the arrival of this Madison Stellar Ultra Reflective Men’s Waterproof Jacket was also timely. Aside from the bold yellow and retina tickling retro-reflective detailing, waterproofing and breathability are 10,000 apiece and there’s a big waterproof breast pocket and at £79.99 it's competitively priced so will be interesting to see how it performs in the coming weeks.    

 

Das ist es

 

Winter is hard on everything, even the best maintained and prepared bicycles, motorcycles, cars etc. demand more owner involvement. Following my undignified, but thankfully inexpensive encounter with sheet ice, I’ve stuck with Ursula and spikes. It was tempting to shod Denise with the Schwalbe Marathon Winter, but conditions were too icy for the 120 spikes.  

Sure, they’d offer a decent amount of grip in less challenging conditions but waterlogged roads that had turned to sheet ice will fox mid- point 240 spikes. Even with 362 spikes, I was incredibly focused along one particular descent, holding the right (front) lever tentatively to scrub off some speed and stabilise but I didn’t deviate from my line and was hyper vigilant, especially entering the left-hand bend. No issues, no bib short soiling, but I didn’t want another tangle with terra firma. Subsequent outings saw me take the longer, flatter route home.  

Having heard of my tumble and trashed tights, Saddleback graciously sent me these Castelli Espresso tights and jacket, which was very welcome, and I was deeply touched. I’d received and fitted the been giving the non-aero lever idea some thought and decided there was some merit in doing so, but restraint was key just now. Not least as someone felt themselves more entitled to my bank account than I. Thankfully my bank’s fraud team were quick to curtail this, but no-one thought to tell me, while I stood in line at the supermarket’s self-checkout.   

I’d decided if I was taking the non-aero lever route, I’d pop them on the WTB mtb drop bars and do a wholesale swap sometime, most likely coinciding with cable replacement. Otherwise, it’s just change for changes sake. 

While replacing Denise’s RL520 lever, I then discovered the derailleur inner wire had exploded into one massive fray, calling for replacement. Logic would suggest then was also the time to perform a switch. However, it was minus 2 and by the time I’d conducted lever surgery and redressed the bars, my fingers were rapidly losing sensation. Best to quit, while ahead rather than soldier on at that point.  

Milder temperatures saw this job completed in a matter of minutes the following day. The new brake inner wire had also stretched very slightly, but I’d noted the CX50 brake pads were running a little low, so I switched these, before pulling the inner wire through. Another illustration of winter being hard on components, so always best to keep a few in stock and coordinate replacement before they wear out.   

Ursula’s chain was looking thirsty, so I ultimately gave both bikes a deep, sudsy bucket clean, degreased Ursula’s drivetrain using the Finish Line Grunge Brush Solo Finish Line Grunge Brush Solo | cycling-not-racing, checked chain health-.25, which was a pleasant surprise and possibly due in part to the use of cleaner lubes-the Wolf Tooth WT-1 All Conditions LubeWolf Tooth WT-1 All Conditions Chain Lub | cycling-not-racing in particular. I’ve gone the Peaty’s Link Lube Premium All Weather PEATY'S LINK LUBE PREMIUM ALL WEATHER | cycling-not-racing.  

I’d switched to Ursula’s other XT wheel, having discovered the Ryde/XT had some play in the bearings, which I didn’t have time to tackle. A few days down the line and with some quiet time, I removed the cassette and tackled the cones. This is a very subtle adjustment and can be a little fiddly.  

I got things close and then whipped two 17mm spanners on the locknuts tightening them both simultaneously, thus ensuring both sides tension evenly, saving time and faff. A quick double check, then back went the cassette-another little job off the list. There was ample Oxford Mint Assembly Grease Oxford Mint Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing clinging to the freehub splines, so no need to replenish.  I’ve been sent these Silca Gear Wipes, which seem a great workshop standby for all sorts of generic cleaning duties.  

£30 buys 110 wipes, which I’m told remove dirt, grease, oil and sweat from frames, components. There are two sides. One for polishing, the other for scrubbing. The polishing side is supposedly safe on frame finishes, including matts, which can be trickier customers to care for. The rougher side is for purging grease, oil and gunk from drivetrains and other areas of impacted grime-white bar wraps being prime candidates. Given the season, it’ll be very interesting to see how effective they are.    

I’d been tempted to pop out on the fixed since temperatures had thawed for successive days, but the mercury was sliding again, and my scabbed forearm and knee tempered such temptations. However, I’d reached my conclusions regarding the Topeak Uni Super Tourist 2.0 Non-Disc Rack  Topeak Uni SuperTourist 2.0 NonDisc Rack | cycling-not-racing