I’ve been tempted to replace
Muffin’s front Mud Hugger Gravel Guard for something a little wider, having
experienced some clearance issues with the 42mm Maxxis Roamer. For the time
being, I’ve switched back to the 38mm Vittoria Adventure Tech and am enjoying a
freshly repacked headset and the serenely slick cleanliness of the All-Mountain
Style Miami Glide Wax Chain Lube
The economies of scale don't
always work in our favour, but they make a lot of sense when its stuff we're
frequently using. Bike washes divide opinion and generally speaking, I default
to good quality wash n' wax formulas- 5 litres or thereabouts, since I also
wash cars and other vehicles and £17 will last me at least a year, even though
filthy winters. However, dedicated bike washes can cut through the grime
more effectively-especially impacted stuff.
A typical litre, readymade potion
will cost £10, whereas a 5-litre concentrate will cost around £25 make at least
ten litres. Price is not the only factor to consider. Some formulas, especially
at the cheaper end of the market are not necessarily kind to disc brakes and
other sensitive components. Other potential issues involve streaking and
similar blemishes in paintwork and corrosion/oxidisation on aluminium alloys.
The shorter the standing times,
the more aggressive the formula likely is and this can cause deterioration
longer term. Especially when rinsed with warm water. During winter, where roads
are typically gritted, rinse bikes with cold water FIRST, going straight for
the warm sudsy bucket will simply accelerate the corrosive process.
I've used and tested a wealth of
different formulas over the years, and most have been competent. Some have left
particularly positive impressions.
Motoverde (previously Green Clean
MX PRO GREEN
MX TRIPLE PACK REVIEW) Bike Wash is one that can be left for 15 minutes or
so, which really allows it to east into stubborn grime. A lot of people like a
highly visual formulas (this also applies to other cleaning products-shampoos
and conditioners) on the belief they are more effective.
In practice, a formula that
clings to the host will breakdown grease, oils, mud and similar contaminant
more effectively, resulting in deeper clean and using less product into the
bargain. Reading the manufacturer's directions should be a given (but a lot of
people don't). Some, including the Motoverde are designed to work when
the host surface is wet, which may be perceived as another stage and a faff.
However, it can ultimately save
time and achieve better results. It's also important to remember that
bike washes are not degreasers, although in concentrate form, they can be very
effective at stripping impacted oily gunk from cassettes, rings and similar
metal surfaces. Squirt Bike Cleaner Concentrate SQUIRT
BIKE CLEANER CONCENTRATE | cycling-not-racing and Weldtite Bike Cleaner
Concentrate Weldtite
Bike Cleaner Concentrate | cycling-not-racing being two that spring to
mind.
One thing invariably prompts
something else and, in this instance, replacing Ursula's cassette led to me
discovering a sticky, well borderline seized TRP Spyre SLC calliper. I've not
had any issues with Muffin’s, although Muffin is tarmac based, whereas Ursula
does a fair bit of mileage off road, hence the calliper gets basted with more
crap.
I've not had too many issues per
se, although I've heard the design is vulnerable to this and internal
corrosion- piston and bearings. It is possible to strip the calliper, although
TRP discourages this, so at your own risk.
Given the callipers are relatively cheap, not the end of the world. However, if I was going to buy a replacement, I'd nothing to lose by blasting the calliper through with a high strength solvent to purge anything gunky, followed by a GT85 GT85 ALL PURPOSE LUBRICANT "chaser". I’d been out for a ride, returned and took a different route.
Having removed the calliper, I
gave it a liberal blast of Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner Motoverde
Drivetrain Cleaner | cycling-not-racing allowed that to marinate for a few
minutes, pumping the mechanism to ensure full penetration. Engaging the
calliper by hand accelerated this, a sludgy brown film seeping out as the
mechanism freed. Rinsed with clean water, I dried thoroughly and applied
Muc-Off MO94 Muc-Off
MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing, taking particular care to avoid
contaminating the pads.
This prompted a wholesale tear
down. I needed to replace the brake cable, so took this as my cue to switch the
bars and stem, repack the FSA aheadset with fresh Juice Lubes Bearing Juice
Waterproof Grease The
Juice Lubes Bearing Juice Long Term | cycling-not-racing An orgy of fettling and script changes
followed but sometimes the most time-effective decision is to strip
and start again.
I’ll close here with my review of
the Gaciron XIAOMAN 1000 Multifunctional All-in-One Professional Outdoor Front
light The
Gaciron XIAOMAN-1000 | cycling-not-racing
