Moons & Floods

 

The postman brought me some interesting goodies to keep me out of mischief. This Moon Helix Pro W (W denotes white) being one of them. It’s a 5-mode contingency/town light boasting a maximum output of 250 lumens, sensored (stop-go), and intelligent output technology.  

Middle of the Helix family of front lights, there’s a Helix Lite-W, delivering 150 lumens, while the Helix Max pumps out a cited 350lumens and run times between 2.15 and 170 hours, depending on mode (in my experience, factors such as temperature also have an influence). The Pro supposedly delivers 2.15 to 142hours, from the lithium polymer cell. Would be interesting to test the rear counterparts, which look very impressive. Despite the relatively flat profile, the lens casts a broad arc of light  

IPX7 for weatherproofing should mean it survives all but full blown, sustained immersion too- I've not had any issues with the recent biblical rains and flooded roads. Anyhow, just need to keep subjecting it to the real world. It also has a 150-lumen rear counterpart, which looks interesting. The instructions recommend not fitting it close to a wireless computer, which wasn’t a complete surprise, but I wondered whether this referred to the head unit, or the fork sensor.  

For the time being, I’ve positioned ours on the fork leg, which hasn’t induced any weird readouts and I’ll move it to the bars and possibly a head tube in due course. There’s a wealth of clever functions- an auto mode that selects the right output for conditions, theoretically maximising run times, a locking mode so the switch doesn’t get accidentally triggered when bouncing around in the bottom of a bag, pocket etc.  

Auto Safe mode is basically a limp home setting. A reserve of 45 minutes on the lowest mode gives a sporting chance of getting home illuminated but try not to go this route too often- aside from the obvious safety element, it’ll also do nasty things to the battery’s service life.     

Talking of rear lights, the Ravemen TR200’s Ravemen TR200 Rear Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) bracket mysteriously expired, causing the light to tinkle across the tarmac.

It was the latter sound that alerted me and I U-turned. Thankfully, the TR200 was obvious and no-one else around. I tucked it into my middle jersey pocket and spun home. Mercifully I had a replacement mount in the spares box.  

Losing any light is never good but I am particularly taken by the TR200’s balance of power, presence, and relative frugality. 

  

Just before Storm Ciaron struck, the Schwalbe Smart Sam succumbed to a second sharp, funnily enough along the same section of very muddy, slippery backroad. Blowouts are rare, and this followed the slow, sinking hiss narrative. No biggie, I’ll just pull over to the verge, swap tubes, pop on the CO2 cartridge and head off again...   

Tyre OK, in went the spare tube, tyre seated properly. Alas, the CO2 cartridge discharged itself in chaotic fits and starts, while the tyre remained firmly flaccid. This is why you always carry a reliable pump.  

Off came the Topeak Gravel 2 Stage Mini Pump Topeak Gravel 2 Stage Mini Pump | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and ten minutes later, we were headed home, the wind swirling and ruffling the otherwise snug Oxford Venture Jacket OXFORD VENTURE JACKET | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) which is still a favourite of mine, thanks to the fit, retro-reflective detailing, removable hood, and deep breast pocket-perfect for stowing my long zoom compact camera within easy reach.  

Mercifully, the flooded sections haven’t been deep enough to engulf hubs but a good test of chain lube, waterproof socks, and footwear. Though not waterproof, Steve’s been impressed by these Fizik Winter Cycling Socks Fizik Winter Cycling Socks | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Not hard to see why I’ve stuck to Ursula. Sealed bearings are designed to resist the pressures of puddles and garden hoses but it’s good practice to give bikes a mile or so a mile or so to purge any residual moisture. 

Conditions have been sufficiently wet n’ wild to tax the Zefal Extra Wet Nano Tech Ceramic Chain Lube ZEFAL EXTRA WET NANO CERAMIC CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) A blend that has otherwise fended off the typical British winter for up to 495miles. I may need to find the Weldtite Extreme Wet WELDTITE TF2 EXTREME WET CHAIN LUBRICANT (sevendaycyclist.com)  should the waterlogged theme continue much longer.  We must also spare a thought for those who have experienced considerable loss and damage. I'll close here with Steve's review of These Chiba gloves Chiba Bioxcell Winter Warm-Line Gloves | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

 

Fast Fifty

 I’ve crossed over into five-decade county and it’s been a cause for much reflection. 37 years since I took delivery of a Holdsworthy Claud Butler I’d been lusting after for a summer-I'd go and “visit” it every weekend that summer. My parents had a colleague who was in his early 60s but could’ve passed for late 30s. A lifelong racing cyclist, he’d often commute to work and then do a “fast fifty” on the route home. Several scoffed at this, until one sceptic happened to follow him and his curly stay Hetchins Hetchins Cycles (classiclightweights.co.uk) in their car.  

There are a lot of myths surrounding the Hetchins curly stays and ornate lugwork, some suggesting the curly stays would spring out and become a structurally sound straight tubed frameset following an impact...The real reasoning for those swoopy stays and fancy lugs was to subvert advertising rules of the post-war period.  

Now, I’m the first to admit they’re beautiful, masterpieces, even but while I admire them, they’re a just that bit too flamboyant for my tastes. Those lugs and other detailing also add a few grams over a more traditional frameset- if that’s important to you. Concepts and standardisation come and go. My frames are older, for starters- the youngest being from 2005, so sport uniform 1& 1/8th, rather than tapered head tubes and therefore, forks.  

The main argument in favour of tapered head tubes (1/18th top, 1.5 bottom) is that a wider fork steerer result in a more responsive, engaging ride without feeling unduly harsh. It also allows a larger downtube, improving rigidity and therefore, on paper at least, efficiency. Now, trend has been for internal cable routing, which seems to be encouraging a shift back to uniform, or strait steerers, albeit larger diameter. Frames with tapered head tubes can run “standard” straight 1/18th forks using a crown race reducer, so not overly problematic.  

Sadly, although not unexpectedly I’m noticing an increase in insolvencies within the UK’s small cycle industry, which is worrying and saddening in equal measure. Much of this seems attributable to Brexit and related trading issues-something that was inevitable to anyone with a basic understanding of economics and to a lesser extent, international trade.  

The less money in people’s pockets, the less taxation there is to fund everyday services, less disposable incomes mean other industries also suffer and so the cycle continues. Hopefully, favourable rescue packages can be secured. Rides allow me to reflect and unload and the dark’s perfect for this kind of processing.  

Back to tech talk, it’s no secret that I love winter booties for warm, dry feet. My preference has always been for mtb versions, if for no other reason than recessed cleats. The ability to walk, rather than hobble is infinitely preferable, especially during winter when roads are wet, greasy and often icy.  

Then of course, I default to SPD pedals and like riding off-road. I recall a small minority of riders in the late 80’s using LOOK pedal systems on the trails but despite my quirks, not an avenue I took.   

I’ve run the FLR Defender FLR DEFENDER MTB DRY BOOT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) for three seasons, through snow, ice, bitter cold and sometimes high water. For a budget model, they perform well but though the design’s wraparound Velcro closure is convenient-especially in winter weight gloves and has relaxed over time, the cut means it can lift allowing water and snow to creep inside. I’ve returned to them, with the advent of storm Babet and was curious whether their bulk might catch on the Topeak Hide n’ Tool.  

The latter’s been a moot point. I was also curious how the FLR would compare with Shimano’s price point rivals, the SH-MW501. These employ a water-repelling outer laying and plentiful retro-reflective technology, which bridges the gap between winter road and mountain biking duties. Beneath, big S has opted for a speed lace system, so it’ll be interesting to see whether this is a better, weather-cheating system.  

The rubberised outer sole is less aggressive than some and doesn’t have drillings for studs- the FLR Defender do. However, in practice, I’ve only found these necessary in the boggiest of conditions. The Shimano are yet to arrive but childlike anticipation aside, that’s not an issue-we're only just entering the wetter, colder season...I’ll close with Steve’s review of the Ergon IP Touring Solestar Insole Ergon IP Touring Solestar Insole | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  and my test of the Topeak Redlite Aero USB Rear Light Topeak Redlite Aero USB Rear Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)