Pit Stops & Component Swaps

Things come in threes. A pronounced lack of braking prowess was traced to a tainted disc-easy purged using a solvent wipe, then my fixed gear winter/trainer’s rear Schwalbe Marathon succumbed a phantom flat.

I decided, wheel out, that this was also time to replace the otherwise likeable KMC X1 with a budget relative-the B1. This is a 112 link nickel plated model, which seems relatively smooth and looks reasonably durable for now. Will look towards a heavy duty, half-link design next time round.

The less slippery plating will hopefully ensure lube will remain within the rollers, rather than migrating to the side plates.  Since the forecast is unseasonably mild, I’ve gone for some Squirt wax lube. Well, it’s closer to an emulsion, the sort that collects contaminant, then flakes off, leaving a filmy, low friction layer behind.

Talking of layers, I’ve reached a firm conclusion re the Crankalicious crisp frame  wax https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/crankalicious-crisp-frame-wax  

Since winter is hard on everything and consumables, can get gobbled at an alarming rate, I’ve acquired a set of Spyre pattern pads. Sods (Murphey’s if we’re being pedantic) law dictates that the OEM pads will suddenly wear to their minimum, just when I’ve none in!  I’ve also renewed the front Jagwire cable in favour of the Jagwire Pro-Road, since the existing set up, though very efficient was showing signs of fraying.

Serendipity had brought this BBB flex ribbon bar wrap to my doorstep. This is a gel impregnated polyurethane, designed to insulate against vibration, while providing excellent grip. The green was pot luck, chosen by windwave, their UK importer but coordinates surprisingly well with the Upso Stirling https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/upso-stirling-seat-pack , blue/grey livery and of course, the celeste cable.

The coming months will confirm how good the flex ribbon, especially compared with polymers and silicones https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-silicone-bar-wrap . The former, though very good in terms of comfort and grip, are trickier to care for. For example, scrubbing them with a medium stiff brush dipped in a sudsy bucket is a no-no. Assuming of course, you didn’t want to strip the clever coating.    

Reminds me, my MK1 KA’s discs are running a little thin but I’m assured by my friendly local garage that they’re good until the next service. Hub transmissions have always appealed on a similarly sleek, low maintenance basis. I’ve been particularly impressed with Shimano’s Alfine, or the iconic Rohloff.  

Talking of which, this Thorn Raven, Rohloff specific frameset arrived for makeover at Maldon shot blasting & powder coating the other week. This one is TIG welded in Taiwan and to a very high standard, whereas those built by Lee Cooper http://leecoopercycles.webs.com/  were impeccably fillet brazed.   

Staying with bespoke, I’ve done 200miles on John Moss’s wheel build and am really impressed both with the spec and his skill. The Halo white line rim, is a 24mm wide “general purpose model”; designed with gravel, touring and similar duties in mind.

The double wall, box section T10 heat treated, low profile aluminium alloy construction, stainless steel eyelets are the hallmarks of a strong, reliable wheel. Given the spec and brief, Jordan at Ison distribution www.ison-distribution.com  (who also import the Shutter precision hubs) recommended a three cross lace up, which resonates with John’s default, wheel building pattern.

The Shutter precision PD8 disc brake hub is available in a wealth of colours, although considerably smaller in size, compared with more traditional hub dynamos. Inside the compact shell, it’s a 6v 3w output. An ultra-reliable hollow cro-moly axle turns on sealed cartridge bearings.

Turning the hub by hand, there’s some obvious resistance but it’s still pretty unobtrusive and certainly less than I’ve noticed with Shimano’s Ultegra. This remains so, when wired up to a lamp and on the road. A skewer isn’t supplied but in this instance I’ve gone for the Ultegra’s since my Univega sports a Kryptonite locking model, to prevent opportunist pilfering.

Theft of expensive components has become an increasingly prolific problem. That’s not to say, thieves who haven’t been able to foil locks, or cut through street furniture, have come away empty handed but there is a trend for targeting bars stems, forks etc.

Not just in the seamier areas either, although slum neighbourhoods are a bad bet at any time of the day. One option is to have your name, or similar distinguishing marks etched into the component surface. Fine if you didn’t want to sell, or trade them on at a later stage.

Arguably, you wouldn’t put “desirable” higher end contact points on a working bike. Nonetheless, if it’s pretty and non-descript an opportunist with a set of Allen keys may well indulge.  Aftermarket fasteners with unique keys are arguably the most secure option but not so good, if you’re prone to losing stuff. If you are going this route, make sure surfaces don’t provide purchase for pliers and other, simple brute force removal techniques.   

Dynamism

 John finished my Halo white rim, Shutter precision PD8 wheel build on Sunday. Beautifully true and expertly tensioned, I returned to my southern base, eager to see how it would perform. Schwalbe rim tape in place, I whipped on their excellent Marathon GT https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-marathon-gt-tyres  and went for a quick twenty mile, backroad “bonding session”.

Initial impressions are silky smooth, with minimal resistance. With lights off, they reckon resistance is 1watt at 30km/h. Tipping the scales at1239g (403g for the hub), it’s comparable with a 32hole Mavic Open Pro, laced to Schmidt SON deluxe. Shimano’s venerable Ultegra unit is my benchmark comparator for high power and relatively low resistance.

I barely notice it, which is a far cry from the old but nonetheless, worthy Nexus units. Now, according to Shutter Precision, the 8 is their workhorse model and purportedly the most efficient available. Lights on and at 17km/h, apparently its 73% efficient, dropping to 50% at 30km/h. Not overly enticing on paper perhaps and I’d be inclined to switch off when lighting/charging gizmos is not required. At least, on longer runs.  

Trelock and several other big brands like what we’re doing at Seven Day Cyclist www.sevendaycyclist.com Trelock have sent me their 80 lux LS906 bike-I pro dynamo lamp, complete with handlebar bracket. Looks perfect for the backroads. 100metres is reckoned the navigational field and visible to 1500metres.

Standlight technology is pretty much a given, when talking modern, good quality dynamo lighting. It also features an on/off switch and auto function. Build is, dare I say, typically Teutonic. However, the wiring instructions were a little vague. Diagrams imply feeding the exposed wires into the tiny white interfaces...

What you need to do is press these in, feed the exposed wires into the black holes either side. Now press the white parts again-this will lock the wires in situ.

The switch bracket is a hinged clamp affair. Unfortunately, this is very narrow. I had to unwind some bar wrap and place the switch on the narrowest section of bar. Even then, it called for a longer screw, which luckily I had in my tool chest. Minor misgivings aside, everything is behaving impeccably.    

Will be very interesting to see how it compares with Busch & Muller’ Lumotec LQ2 Luxus and of course, my Univega’s MK1 exposure revo. Since I’m here, a word about Lux and Lumens.

Obviously, factors such as diode, reflector and lens quality will have a big influence on real world performance. There is also an argument that lux is truth, lumens sales-speak, in the sense that horsepower sells cars, torque wins races. That said; by definition, any sweeping generalisation, is by definition, prone to glaring inaccuracy.

Lux is a measure of light, probably best thought of as light intensity within a specific area. Lumens is the total output of visible light, bigger numbers, brighter light. One Lux is equal to one lumen per square metre.

As light travels from its source, it gets dispersed, rates of dispersion depend upon factors, including the angle. Therefore, a light with 800 lumens but top notch lens, diode and reflector is going to be a whole heap better than a cheap 1500 lumen retina tickler.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, this explains why 650lumen torch type lights (the sort designed for sub/urban training/commuting and giving change from £60) don’t deliver the same navigational prowess, as a 600lumen trail type commanding twice the cash.  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/blank-ypcqd   

Numbers are also pretty significant when it comes to rider apparel. Ratings of 10,000 are pretty standard for “waterproofing and breathability” for commuter jackets, especially those of the sub £100 price point.

Less will leave you feeling decidedly feted and clammy. Contrary to popular misconception, you don’t actually want something 100% waterproof, otherwise, your own moisture cannot escape and aside from feeling “boiled in the bag”, there’s an increased chance of catching a chill.  

In scientific terms, these figures mean the garment will resist and expel moisture reasonably efficiently-90minutes persistent downpour, which is adequate for commuting at a moderate pace. However, for more spirited and/or longer distance riding, 15,000-20,000 makes life a whole lot more comfortable. 

I like pockets. Hip, nelson and a poacher at the rear cover most bases and are really useful for commuting and touring, although a Nelson and poacher are more typical of training models. Long tails protect the back from spray and chill, elasticated/wrap over Velcro cuffs prevent it blowing in, especially when hunkered low on the drops. Might be a lot of that in the coming days, if our weather forecast is anything to go by... 

Swerving the Pause

Dynohub wheel components safely in the hands of John Moss, I awoke at 6am on Monday morning…Decided then was the moment to replace my fixed gear winter/trainer’s Aheadset. Gathered headset, Czech made headset press, cyclo crown race setter and X tools’ removal tool. The former, though used infrequently, make replacement surgery a breeze.

Convenience aside, they also ensure delicate alloys and head tubes aren’t ruined. With care, it is possible to improvise using blocks of wood and a hammer…If money’s tight, I’d buy the press and crown race remover and employ a scrap length of 1/18^th down-tube to set the new one.  

Everything came apart effortlessly and the FSA Orbit XLII in place at 7.30bc (before coffee). Cartridge bearings are impregnated with grease at the factory. Nonetheless, greasing races is advised, to keep the elements, corrosion and ultimately, minimise wear.

I plumped for some Finish line ceramic around the lower bearing and Park PL1 around the upper. Forgot the butyl boot, mind but opted to quit while the going was indeed, good. Grease aside, the XL II is buttery smooth, confirmed by massive inner smile following the morning’s celebratory 20mile blast.

The following evening, I decided another helping of grease was in order. Clearly under the influence of Rocket fuel, one lead to another and said machine now sports a slightly more aggressive cockpit and Torus TI stem https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/torus-titanium-stem .  Titanium can form an extremely stubborn bond, so don’t forget good quality assembly paste to contact points. Or you might find them inseparable a few months down the line…  

The same applies to other metals of mixed parentage-aluminium posts in steel frames, not to mention bottom bracket threads, which perfectly positioned for lashings of dodgy water. A decent glob of high quality synthetic grease prevents grief and copious amounts of penetrant spray later on.

That done, I turned my attentions to the Univega. Full length guards can extend maintenance intervals quite considerably, especially when it comes to headsets; bottom brackets and seatposts. Sealed cable systems, so long as they’ve been installed correctly are very much fit n’ forget. Worth it, if you’re doing big miles in foul weather.

Somehow, I managed to snag one, where it routed into the rear derailleur. Replacing it with Jagwire pro shift has sorted shifting gremlins. As I’d hope, the stainless steel inner with pre-lubricated liner is super slick. Whether they’re truly fit n’ forget remains to be seen.

Though fun is a big part of winter riding, reliability is an equally significant buzzword. Wheels and tyres being cases in point. I’m sticking with the Kenda small block8 and Schwalbe Marathon 365 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-marathon-gt365-tyre  pairing. Spoke tension was a little on the slack side, some minor wobble needed ironing out too.

Nowhere near Samba dancing territory but a few minutes on the jig, saves a heap of hassle, not to mention money later on. The rear was an off the peg, machine built affair. These have become much more reliable but still tend to loose truth and tension faster, compared with hand built hoops.

A good wheel builder knows exactly how much to re-tension, whereas a machine can only work to programmed settings. Nothing a wheelsmith can’t sort later on and wouldn’t trouble me, on a lightly laden commuter, or training bike. The last thing I’d want on a heavily laden tourer, tandem, or similarly specialised build.

Sans wheels, time to give the frameset really thorough clean. This enables any damage to be spotted and remedial measures taken. Ritual (at least in my republic) dictates that the undersides of mudguards are also given a thorough scrub too. Minor stone chips around the “school chair fork” were treated to a drop of high build marine primer, left curing for 24 hours.

Finally I applied “helicopter tape” where cables brush against the frame tubes and gave the entire bike a liberal helping of Crankalicious crisp frame hybrid wax.

Pleasing to administer and seemingly offering a durable, glossy barrier, I’ll hold judgement until November’s close. This will give a much better indicator of its true performance, compared with a more traditional hard-paste car type.

For the earlier part and, depending on what comes in for testing I’ll be sticking with lighter, cleaner chain lubes. As a genre, they lack the tenacity of wet blends but are generally lower friction and attract less dirt.  

Staying Ahead

 

As I intimated in my last entry, my fixed gear winter/trainer’s FSA Orbit Aheadset, is at the beginning of the metaphorical end.
 


This presented an ideal opportunity to see how resilient Pure bike grease is, compared with Green Oil eco grease and through Autumn/early winter. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-ecogrease-long-ter-test

Another Woodman Saturn, like that fitted to the Teenage Dream and Holdsworth was my first choice, not least as they’re incredibly smooth and very well sealed from the elements. However, these have been discontinued and finding something NOS (New old stock) was proving tricky.

With that in mind, FSA Orbit XLII seemed an obvious and relatively inexpensive alternative. Mine for £18.99. Just as well replacement isn’t urgent, since it arrived without one of the cups. Nonetheless, to their credit, the dealer apologised and rushed me a replacement cup 1st class.

Unless we get a more exotic grease in for testing, I will probably default to Park PPL1  or White Lightning Crystal grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/white-lightning-crystal-grease . Think I’ll make a boot from old inner tube around the lower race for some additional protection, while I’m at it.

An old 26x1.95 Kenda thorn resistant model seems an ideal candidate but generally speaking, any Mountain bike/BMX section will fit snugly without recourse to cable ties/similar.

These might be necessary on old fashioned 1 inch headsets. Bear in mind that traditional Lithium and Teflon infused greases will rot butyl over time. Counter argument says we should strip, inspect and possibly, re-grease regularly.

There are two schools of thought when it comes to winter riding. Really stiff greases and stay put chain lubes, or lighter, cleaner formulas, replenished more frequently. I confess to a hybrid approach.

Really stout polymer type greases for bearings and component assembly, cleaner and lower friction chain lubes/waxes. Provided of course; that roads/trails aren’t waterlogged or snowbound.

Another blast from the past came in the form of Panaracer Pasala PT. Those who’ve been riding a good couple of decades or longer will probably recognise it as the tour guard-it’s just been re-named and justly so, given it ranges from 700x23 to 26x1.75.

25mm is narrow enough for general road duties and audax/weekend touring, although the bigger sections are perfect for gravel, or cyclo cross bikes that earn their keep as winter/training bikes. At 255g (each), the 25mm folders are pretty svelte but feature a puncture repelling Aramid belt.

Samples aside, unless bike(s) in question were on strict, calorie controlled diets, I’d be inclined to go for the wire bead version. Ours proved tricky customers with deeper section rims, such as the Holdsworth’s Miche-after much primal grunting, I resorted to my mighty Cyclo workshop tyre lever.

Formative impressions are favourable, although tyre compounds and other technology have advanced considerably in recent years, so they face stiff competition from models such as Vee tire co rain runner, which seem that bit faster and more dependable at full pelt and in foul weather.

Not that we’ve had anything close to the apocalyptic, stormy conditions predicted to hit these shores. Conditions have become damper mind, the lanes are paved with bovine dung, which is a decidedly slippery customer-worse when it’s glistening with ice.

I wasn’t surprised to discover more persistent rain and wet backroads have put a dent in the TF2 ultra dry wax’s economy. Needing a stiffer, yet still clean running pour and go potion, I headed to my lube box.

A quick rummage unearthed this Motorex dry chain lube, which is a fully synthetic hybrid of oil and wax. Previous experience suggests this composition serves to lock in the lubricant, while a superficially scabby layer of contaminant sticks to the wax.

This version is also similar, yet slightly different from other wax type lubricant. The wax component grabs hold of grot, preventing it sticking to the oily, lubricant properties and becoming a transmission wrecking paste. However, it doesn’t flake off, which can look a little unsightly. Nonetheless, it returns a fairly high mileage per application.   

Now, you’ll excuse me, this Halo white gravel rim and spokes have just arrived from Ison distribution, ready for John to build around the shutter precision PL8 dynohub. Talking of lights, here’s links to the Xeccon Mars blinkies and 900 lumen spear we’ve reviewed recently…  

 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/xeccon-mars-30-rear-light

https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/xeccon-spear-900-front-light

         

Show n' Tell

Seven day cyclist www.sevendaycyclist.com was at the Cycle Show in Birmingham’s National Exhibition centre. Quite a lot caught my eye, although given the focus of my last entry and the recent sentencing of Charlie Alliston, I was very taken with the Cinelli and Condor stands. Unusual to see a linear pull brake these days, especially on a road biased fixed/single speed build.

Gravel and bike packing remains a big trend and another genre that strongly appeals to me.  The Cube stand also sported this Nuroad EXC; a convergence between gravel bike and lightweight tourer. Complete with dynamo lighting, disc brakes, full-length guards and a Tubus rack. 

Staying on this lightweight, versatile tourer theme, we stopped by the Isla bikes stand and had a closer look at their Luath, which is perfect for younger riders seeking an all-rounder.

Ready to tour, commute, or drop rack and guards and try a bit of cross. Sensibly proportioned crank length, gearing and contact points are definite plusses. This also serves to illustrate how serious the brand is about providing correctly fitting machines for younger audiences.

Often parents will fight shy, on the rationale their offspring will “grow out of it in no time” but in the longer run, decent quality machines hold their value. Even after they’ve been handed down two, maybe three times come resale; expect to recoup 50% of the original ticket price.

Isla bikes also have an interesting rental scheme called the “Imagine Project”. At the end of this lease, machines will then be returned to the factory, refurbished and leased again.

Theory goes; this “closed loop” system prevents raw materials being buried as landfill. We’re told these bikes will be rugged, utility machines, rather than thoroughbred lightweights but these have a vital role to play in a sustainable, mixed mode transport system.

I also dropped by the Halo stand and they have graciously agreed to supply me with a suitable (model) rim for my shutter precision dynohub build. Staying with lighting, exposure lights showed us their Strada 900. This uses the same kind of dipped headlight technology commonplace in cars, providing plenty of illumination for high speed outings but without dazzling oncoming traffic.

We’re told the Revo dynamo light is pretty much (graphics aside) unchanged from that adorning my Univega’s bars for the past five years. Some people criticise it for not having a USB charge port for smart phones and other tech. However, Exposure has apparently swerved this route and in my opinion, it’s the ideal lamp for long, steady, mixed terrain miles. Their revo dynohub also stirred some lustful yearnings... 

Elsewhere, I’ve made time to strip, inspect and re-grease my fixed gear winter/trainers FSA Orbit headset. There was a decent amount of Green Oil eco-grease (link) clinging to the upper and lower races. Reassuring and suggests it’s very much on par with PTFE infused formulas.

I’ve substituted it for the Pure bike grease to see how it copes with more demanding service. Lower, butter-like viscosity means it spreads effortlessly over bearings, races and other components but superficially, doesn’t bind, or cling to hosts with the same tenacity as the eco-grease it replaces. Time and miles will tell.

I’ve also been spending some time behind the dark shield-familiarising myself with John Moss’s Clarke MIG130 EN gas/less welder. MIG/MAG/GMAW welding was originally developed during the Second World War and used widely in munitions factories before finding favour in automotive contexts.

Filler rod is continuously fed on a spool, minimising interruption and in an industrial context, maximising output. I was taught on a 105 amp Clarke unit feeding from industrial Argon/Co2 cylinders.  

A failed spot weld on his stool (something of an heirloom, having been in his family for 65 years) proved the ideal candidate and was easily repaired, with a few relatively short beads.  

Flux corded weld wire produces a less refined weld compared with Argon/Co2 shielding gas and standard .6/.8 filer rod. Nothing judicious deployment of a grinder doesn’t sort, mind.  Right, time to put self-activating dark shields (Technology my grandfather would never put his trust in-I can almost feel him turning in his urn) down. I’m off to play with some post show test goodies.