The Continued Joy of Full-Length Guards & High-End Dynamos

Travers Bikes  https://www.traversbikes.com    have graciously sent me K-lite Bike Packer Pro V2. In common with its Backpacker Ultra cousins, https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/k-lite-bikepacker-ultra-dynamo-ligh  it produces 1300lumens and runs from the same switchgear. However, its considerably smaller and is housed in an orange, CNC machined aluminium shell.

Aesthetically, it complements the excellent Acros Silicone Wrap Handlebar Tape https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/acros-silicone-wrap-handlebar-tape . Beautifully executed, the less “industrial” flavour has more obvious appeal to clutter-phobic riders of posh winter/Audax or fast touring rigs. The “med” beam pattern is also designed to bridge both worlds.

Relentless, torrential rains have turned lanes into lakes and reminded me just how useful full-length chrome plastic guards are. Not only do they keep corrosive, silty grot from a bike’s intricate parts, extending service intervals and component life. They also defend the rider from surprising amounts of dodgy, cold-baiting water, too.

Little surprise that I’ve defaulted to the Univega. With my fixed gear winter/trainer sporting the Bike Packer Pro V2, I’ve switched to the K-lite Bike Packer Ultra Road/Gravel version, which delivers a more focused, asphalt specific beam. This also presented the ideal opportunity to tidy and reorganise my Tom Tom Bandit. Even allowing for full-length guards, several rides in, the old girl was filthy.

A break in the rain allowed a proper wash and thorough waxing. I’ve been testing Naked Bikes Pro Bike Wax for a few months now and am reaching some, definite conclusions. In common with Velo 21 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/velo-21  it’s blended to cater for gloss, satin and matt finishes. Only a light layer is required to deliver a lasting, protective barrier too, which means it should work out very economical, in the long run.

I’m also pleased to discover plenty of Zefal Pro Wet Lube clinging to the chain, with refreshingly little contaminant. Having run it through a changeable Spring/Summer, I was also surprised to note it’s assumed a markedly higher viscosity, with the pronounced drop in temperature. I am wondering whether this is positively impacting upon its staying prowess. I’d be disappointed if it didn’t cross the 300mile mark.

Obvious conditions for testing wet weather attire. I’ve not gone over to water repellent tights yet but these ten- year- old Lake booties have been plucked from seasonal hibernation and given a liberal helping of leather “food”. This will keep the hides nourished and protected from the elements.

The Prendas Cyclismo caps are also proving pretty good on the water resistant, yet breathable front. 90 minutes continuous, heavy rain, and they’ll be suitably soggy.

I’d sooner that, than drowning in my own sweat. In terms of breathability, when it’s been dry, the steady flow of air through my scalp is very palpable. Following a soaking, they’ve dried in around (1hr) at room temperature.  

Ultimately, no matter how generous your guards, or weather repellent your garments, the elements will ultimately make inroads. I like tights with water-repelling top layers and highly water repellent, rather than those with impervious TPU mid layers. I can also appreciate neoprene’s benefits, when wet and cold are relentless. However, the clamminess is a turn-off for me.

Another turn off, is riders who pass too close. Though thankfully quite rare, I’ve had a few groups who have insisted on riding within stroking difference of my bar wrap. I even had one rider, hanging off the back of his group, complaining that I had the audacity to run two rear lights!

This little ETC Mira 20 Lumen Rear Light being one of them. Admittedly, there’s plenty of punch but I had it in the medium flashing mode, and it can be seen from a good distance. However, peripheral prowess means it’s best as a contingency/secondary, rather than primary model.

Preps & Preparedness FGG

Been a busy week of tweaking and tuning here, with a welcome procession of test kit, to keep me focused and out of trouble. Summer prevails, despite the harbinger of doom  tabloid headlines. 

We're prioritising summer based chain preps and related stuff, at Seven Day Cyclist and I'm hoping to get some decent mileage on the Holdsworth before leaves start falling.  That said; the nights are drawing in that little bit faster now, which is ideal for testing lights. 

The majority of breakdowns are avoidable. Sure, there's always that hole/sharp with your name on it. The best maintained machines CAN let us down, but probability is very small. 

I've been alternating between fixed gear winter trainer and tubby tourer this week. Thundering along 1in 4s at 35mph, keeping up with the spiralling revs and putting the Clarks CMD22 through its paces. Paired to The now discontinued  Kinesis DC37 fork  and Cane Creek V brake lever https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/cane-creek-v-brake-drop-bar-levers, setup was a pig. 

I also had to switch to the TRP Spyre's mount, so the caliper didn't bind against the spokes. Quiet, methodical tweaking, diesel strength coffee and minute adjustments won the day. Formative impressions are very positive, although at this stage, I'm not convinced real world performance is superior to the TRP Spyre. 

Only time and real world miles, will tell.  A sentiment that applies to a wealth of other things. Dry lubes can take many forms, some ceramic blends, such as Weldtite TF2 which cure to a dry, yet surprisingly durable state. 

Others are closer to an oil and some, including Muc Off Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-dry-chain-lube and Oxford Mint Dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-mint-cycle-dry-lube are closer to emulsions in their consistency. Ceramics tend to require relatively long curing periods. However, the do run cleanest, in my experience. 

Wax and emulsions tend to melt in higher temperatures. This may look gunky but dirt and grime are locked within the outer layer. This ensures it doesn't form a transmission munching grinding paste, and given time, the grotty stuff will fall away. 

Most noticeably, when its solidified following a cooler period. Unfortunately, in their gooey state, they transfer more readily to hands and clothing. Not ideal, if you're commuting, or doing short "bikes as car" runs in smart trousers.

I carry a couple of latex examination gloves, should a flat/similar roadside mechanical strike. Good practice generally, especially if you are using petrochemical derived formulas.

Speaking of which Rock N' Roll Lubes' UK distributors have kindly sent me samples of the Gold LV and Extreme LV formulas. 

LV stands for low vapour, meaning they're non flammable, so can be transported in the post and on aircraft, without special precautions.  These are not oils, in the commonly accepted sense, so require a different delivery. Strip the chain and cassette of any pre-existing lube (including the factory stuff). 

Shift the chain to the middle of the cassette (as appropriate). Give the  Rock n' Roll a quick shake, undo the cap and apply a continuous flow of lubricant into the chain. Once you've built up a decent layering rotate the cranks for five seconds and clean any excess from the chain's side plates, derailleur jockey wheels etc.  

Now, leave it curing for a few hours. I'm told the Rock n' Roll family are completely compatible. 

Say you wanted to switch from their absolute dry https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/rock-n-roll-absolute-dry-chain-lube to the Extreme LV. There's no need  to go through the stripping rigmarole, simply deliver the Extreme on top. The solvents will remove the sibling product and leave the other in its place. 

They've also sent us some Miracle Red 3in1 degreaser. They tell me its a bio-degreaser, hand cleaner and stain remover. So, theoretically, you can purge stains from your bike, hands and soiled clothing. In the latter context, it should be applied neat to the affected area, then agitated with a finger nail, then rinsed.  

To date, I've used it to purge mildly mucky maulers and dilute as a bike wash, prior to waxing the Univega with this Naked Bikes Pro Bike Wax Special Edition. In common with several other boutique blends I've tested, this one is a hand poured blend of hard and soft waxes. 

Apparently, it contains Si02 technology and reckoned to last uyp to 12 months between applications. In my experience boutique waxes, though expensive, relative to polymer based car types, do last a good while. 

However, I suspect the maximum periods cited are perhaps, based upon machines in dry storage, rather than daily service. Judging by my Univega, the rich glossy effect is impressive, although, unlike Velo21 Ultimate Paintwork Protection https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/velo-21 , there's no mention of compatibility with matt finishes.  

Naked Bikes also sent their Bike Bling and Chain Cleaner. The former is a quick n' convenient detailer, the sort that really brings out the sheen.  Ideally, give recipient bikes a sudsy bucket wash first. Unlike the Pro Green MX Aftershine101 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/pro-green-mx-triple-pack, which is literally blow n' go,  

Bike Bling has to be worked in, then buffed to a shine. Hardly a hardship mind. 

Every now and then, small miscellaneous parts need running repairs. My tubby tourer's otherwise fabulous Exposure Revo MK1 dynamo wiring was looking a touch weary just above the plug. 

Heat shrink was my first idea. I was halfway to ordering some, when I discovered this Thermoworx White morph. Its a versatile polymer along the same lines as Sugru. 

Only, it can be re-used. Set too quick? Apply a hairdryer to it, and gently reshape. It reacts with hot water (62 degrees upwards). So, decant some of the beads into an old cup, boil a kettle and pour in. 

Stir (an old, clean spoke seems perfect) until it assumes a sticky, toffee like consistency. Mould, apply and leave to set. Setting is VERY rapid, so you need to be prepared to work, apply, and shape quickly.  Strictly speaking, its a modification/ "hacking" rather than repair product in the conventional sense. 

Aside from the damaged outer dynamo cabling, I've added "scuff bumpers" to my Univega's Microshift Brifters, made replacement end caps for the mudguard stays and sealed freshly spruned cable ends. Pretty confident I'll find several others. Bike related, and otherwise. 

Spaced Out & Salvaged

Inspired by warmer drier weather, and of course, that Holdsworth Cyclone awaiting refinishing, I’ve plucked my Holdsworth from hibernation and decided to revise the cockpit, again. My love of flared drops seems to know no bounds. This might offend traditionalists, but my bikes are built, and evolve to suit me.

That’s not to say I don’t appreciate some people’s desires to keep a classic bike’s authenticity-right down to fasteners. The Soma Highway1 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma-highway-1-handlebars are a fine set of shallow drops, but that oh-so familiar urge for tweaking was calling. Condor’s hybrid design, combining riser and drops https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma  wasn’t the most obvious choice, I’ll admit.

After some reflection, I opted for the MK1, and then decided I also fancied a change of brake lever. A quick rummage in the spares’ drawer, unearthed this solitary, orphaned Tektro R200. Seemingly superseded by the RL340, these are nicely finished Campagnolo patterns, right down to the push button Q/R.

Giving change from £25 (pr) they play nicely with dual pivots, centre pulls and cantilevers. Their RL520 cousins were designed for V brakes and compatible with, cable operated disc callipers, such as these Tektro Spyre. Light springs, decent modulation and feel.

Some folks might be a bit snooty, but both represent fantastic value for money. Oh, and if you’re really that fussed about branding,, the Tektro logo could be stripped, using a cutting compound, such as Crankalicious Mayo Jaune Intensive Frame Cleaner https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/crankalicious-mayo-jaune-intensive-  

At 145g, the solitary lever is 85g heavier than the Acor carbon TT lever, it replaces. However, I felt it a more suitable revision-knew it’d come in handy someday! I described the Soma Condor2 Shallow Drop Bars https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/soma-condor-2-shallow-drop-bars  as   “The bar the original Soma Condor Handlebar should’ve been”.

Generally, I stand by this statement, but the original’s lower slung tops, are a better fit with the Holdsworth. Being able to salvage the silicone handlebar tape, was another definite bonus.  In some respects, The Genetic D-Riser 16 Bars https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/genetic-d-riser-bars  might’ve been better still. However, they’re staying on my fixed gear winter/trainer, thank you.

Holdsworth makeover complete, I tweaked the Woodman Saturn Aheadset bearings, gave it a good sudsy bucket wash, then treated it to this Velo21 Blueberry Glaze wax. Despite some initial scepticism, performance and longevity are quite impressive. Aside from apparent quality, and longevity of sheen, its genuinely compatible with matt, satin and gloss finishes. Yes, including this Torus Titanium Stem https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/torus-titanium-stem

Talking of wax, I had intended to dress the chain in Zefal Pro Dry Chain Lube but picked up Zefal Extra Dry Chain Wax, by mistake. An error that only became apparent when the white emulsion began seeping into the links. Mildly annoying, but there we are. No sense starting again, so I delivered three coats and popped the bike away. Quitting while ahead is a definite virtue.  Talking of chains, I checked the Univega’s FSA using my KMC digital unit. To date, wear is nominal, but I acquired a KMC X973 grey replacement, for when the FSA needs pensioning off.  

Fixed chains don’t require the same degree of introspection, but you’d be foolish not to inspect and where appropriate, adjust tension. This was only necessary a couple of times, during the KMC Z1 X’s  lifetime. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/kmc-inox-chain  By comparison, this is the third time in 1100miles, for the Passport Elements Single Speed Anti Rust Chain https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/passport-elements-single-speed-chai .

Nonetheless, the Passport is a very reliable, relatively smooth and highly corrosion resistant option. The galvanised texture genuinely seems to retain lube better, than traditional polished/electroplated models.

While it copes well with the stresses of a fixed transmission, I’d opt for a heavy-duty track version, if like me, you only run a single, front brake. Perfect for a single speed, or hub geared bike, especially those that see year- round, four seasons; service.