Staying Ahead

 

As I intimated in my last entry, my fixed gear winter/trainer’s FSA Orbit Aheadset, is at the beginning of the metaphorical end.
 


This presented an ideal opportunity to see how resilient Pure bike grease is, compared with Green Oil eco grease and through Autumn/early winter. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-ecogrease-long-ter-test

Another Woodman Saturn, like that fitted to the Teenage Dream and Holdsworth was my first choice, not least as they’re incredibly smooth and very well sealed from the elements. However, these have been discontinued and finding something NOS (New old stock) was proving tricky.

With that in mind, FSA Orbit XLII seemed an obvious and relatively inexpensive alternative. Mine for £18.99. Just as well replacement isn’t urgent, since it arrived without one of the cups. Nonetheless, to their credit, the dealer apologised and rushed me a replacement cup 1st class.

Unless we get a more exotic grease in for testing, I will probably default to Park PPL1  or White Lightning Crystal grease https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/white-lightning-crystal-grease . Think I’ll make a boot from old inner tube around the lower race for some additional protection, while I’m at it.

An old 26x1.95 Kenda thorn resistant model seems an ideal candidate but generally speaking, any Mountain bike/BMX section will fit snugly without recourse to cable ties/similar.

These might be necessary on old fashioned 1 inch headsets. Bear in mind that traditional Lithium and Teflon infused greases will rot butyl over time. Counter argument says we should strip, inspect and possibly, re-grease regularly.

There are two schools of thought when it comes to winter riding. Really stiff greases and stay put chain lubes, or lighter, cleaner formulas, replenished more frequently. I confess to a hybrid approach.

Really stout polymer type greases for bearings and component assembly, cleaner and lower friction chain lubes/waxes. Provided of course; that roads/trails aren’t waterlogged or snowbound.

Another blast from the past came in the form of Panaracer Pasala PT. Those who’ve been riding a good couple of decades or longer will probably recognise it as the tour guard-it’s just been re-named and justly so, given it ranges from 700x23 to 26x1.75.

25mm is narrow enough for general road duties and audax/weekend touring, although the bigger sections are perfect for gravel, or cyclo cross bikes that earn their keep as winter/training bikes. At 255g (each), the 25mm folders are pretty svelte but feature a puncture repelling Aramid belt.

Samples aside, unless bike(s) in question were on strict, calorie controlled diets, I’d be inclined to go for the wire bead version. Ours proved tricky customers with deeper section rims, such as the Holdsworth’s Miche-after much primal grunting, I resorted to my mighty Cyclo workshop tyre lever.

Formative impressions are favourable, although tyre compounds and other technology have advanced considerably in recent years, so they face stiff competition from models such as Vee tire co rain runner, which seem that bit faster and more dependable at full pelt and in foul weather.

Not that we’ve had anything close to the apocalyptic, stormy conditions predicted to hit these shores. Conditions have become damper mind, the lanes are paved with bovine dung, which is a decidedly slippery customer-worse when it’s glistening with ice.

I wasn’t surprised to discover more persistent rain and wet backroads have put a dent in the TF2 ultra dry wax’s economy. Needing a stiffer, yet still clean running pour and go potion, I headed to my lube box.

A quick rummage unearthed this Motorex dry chain lube, which is a fully synthetic hybrid of oil and wax. Previous experience suggests this composition serves to lock in the lubricant, while a superficially scabby layer of contaminant sticks to the wax.

This version is also similar, yet slightly different from other wax type lubricant. The wax component grabs hold of grot, preventing it sticking to the oily, lubricant properties and becoming a transmission wrecking paste. However, it doesn’t flake off, which can look a little unsightly. Nonetheless, it returns a fairly high mileage per application.   

Now, you’ll excuse me, this Halo white gravel rim and spokes have just arrived from Ison distribution, ready for John to build around the shutter precision PL8 dynohub. Talking of lights, here’s links to the Xeccon Mars blinkies and 900 lumen spear we’ve reviewed recently…  

 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/xeccon-mars-30-rear-light

https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/xeccon-spear-900-front-light

         

Show n' Tell

Seven day cyclist www.sevendaycyclist.com was at the Cycle Show in Birmingham’s National Exhibition centre. Quite a lot caught my eye, although given the focus of my last entry and the recent sentencing of Charlie Alliston, I was very taken with the Cinelli and Condor stands. Unusual to see a linear pull brake these days, especially on a road biased fixed/single speed build.

Gravel and bike packing remains a big trend and another genre that strongly appeals to me.  The Cube stand also sported this Nuroad EXC; a convergence between gravel bike and lightweight tourer. Complete with dynamo lighting, disc brakes, full-length guards and a Tubus rack. 

Staying on this lightweight, versatile tourer theme, we stopped by the Isla bikes stand and had a closer look at their Luath, which is perfect for younger riders seeking an all-rounder.

Ready to tour, commute, or drop rack and guards and try a bit of cross. Sensibly proportioned crank length, gearing and contact points are definite plusses. This also serves to illustrate how serious the brand is about providing correctly fitting machines for younger audiences.

Often parents will fight shy, on the rationale their offspring will “grow out of it in no time” but in the longer run, decent quality machines hold their value. Even after they’ve been handed down two, maybe three times come resale; expect to recoup 50% of the original ticket price.

Isla bikes also have an interesting rental scheme called the “Imagine Project”. At the end of this lease, machines will then be returned to the factory, refurbished and leased again.

Theory goes; this “closed loop” system prevents raw materials being buried as landfill. We’re told these bikes will be rugged, utility machines, rather than thoroughbred lightweights but these have a vital role to play in a sustainable, mixed mode transport system.

I also dropped by the Halo stand and they have graciously agreed to supply me with a suitable (model) rim for my shutter precision dynohub build. Staying with lighting, exposure lights showed us their Strada 900. This uses the same kind of dipped headlight technology commonplace in cars, providing plenty of illumination for high speed outings but without dazzling oncoming traffic.

We’re told the Revo dynamo light is pretty much (graphics aside) unchanged from that adorning my Univega’s bars for the past five years. Some people criticise it for not having a USB charge port for smart phones and other tech. However, Exposure has apparently swerved this route and in my opinion, it’s the ideal lamp for long, steady, mixed terrain miles. Their revo dynohub also stirred some lustful yearnings... 

Elsewhere, I’ve made time to strip, inspect and re-grease my fixed gear winter/trainers FSA Orbit headset. There was a decent amount of Green Oil eco-grease (link) clinging to the upper and lower races. Reassuring and suggests it’s very much on par with PTFE infused formulas.

I’ve substituted it for the Pure bike grease to see how it copes with more demanding service. Lower, butter-like viscosity means it spreads effortlessly over bearings, races and other components but superficially, doesn’t bind, or cling to hosts with the same tenacity as the eco-grease it replaces. Time and miles will tell.

I’ve also been spending some time behind the dark shield-familiarising myself with John Moss’s Clarke MIG130 EN gas/less welder. MIG/MAG/GMAW welding was originally developed during the Second World War and used widely in munitions factories before finding favour in automotive contexts.

Filler rod is continuously fed on a spool, minimising interruption and in an industrial context, maximising output. I was taught on a 105 amp Clarke unit feeding from industrial Argon/Co2 cylinders.  

A failed spot weld on his stool (something of an heirloom, having been in his family for 65 years) proved the ideal candidate and was easily repaired, with a few relatively short beads.  

Flux corded weld wire produces a less refined weld compared with Argon/Co2 shielding gas and standard .6/.8 filer rod. Nothing judicious deployment of a grinder doesn’t sort, mind.  Right, time to put self-activating dark shields (Technology my grandfather would never put his trust in-I can almost feel him turning in his urn) down. I’m off to play with some post show test goodies.

 

Laws of Attraction

Brakeless fixed gear builds belong on the track. People riding fixed, on public roads, without a front brake is a pet peeve of mine.

Being brutally honest, given the publicity surrounding Charlie Alliston (Reportedly riding a fixed gear track bike-brakeless, when he collided with a pedestrian in February 2016) I’m astonished that some riders still set their daily drivers this way.

Mainstream press coverage was anything but neutral in tone.




There are a wealth of cars and other vehicles driven with defective components and by operators, without appropriate licences or insurance. Some industry sources estimate there are as many as 216,000 uninsured car drivers. 13.4% residing in East London, where the tragic incident occurred.

Their risk/likelihood of killing, or otherwise ruining lives is considerably greater.







Nonetheless, the law is unambiguous.

It is an offence to ride on a public road without two efficient braking systems. These must apply to both wheels. Riding fixed allows the rider to regulate sped by holding off against the cranks-much better in wet, or icy conditions. A handful of front brake then, could result in a very painful and undignified face plant. That said; a lever operated brake mechanism must feature.

Now, back in the 1950s, when Velodromes packed in the crowds, it was common practice to arrive on your road-path bike, stripping it of mudguards and front brake.

Some folks carried their race wheels on sprint carriers-I still have a set and occasionally deliver/collect a freshly trued wheel this way. One of those concepts I would appreciate coming back into vogue. That said; they’re easily made from aluminium alloy-assuming you’ve got some basic engineering/metal working skills.

I digress… This particular outpouring was sparked by a Bianchi conversion spotted around Coventry’s canal basin. Aside from being badly locked and that unmistakable celeste livery, the bare fork drilling caught my eye.

Thinking back to my earlier paragraph, while unlikely, it is still possible that its owner booby trapped their  bike. Removed front calliper and Dia Compe “Dirty Harry” type lever when parking up?

ON the subject of Celeste, these Jagwire Pro-shift and Pro road brake cables have arrived on the Seven Day Cyclist www.sevendaycyclist.com test bench.

 

I’ve earmarked ours for my Univega, since its neutral cream livery won’t clash and there are signs of kink damage where the existing (model) enters the rear mech. Ideal opportunity to pop said tubby tourer’s wheels on the jig-a quick tension and true before winter.

Speaking of winter, we’ve also had these early winter and lobster gloves arrive from Phew.cc www.phew.cc . These are designed to bridge the gap between spring and full blown duvet type winter gloves. Their windster, windproof and breathable fabric is essentially a fleece lined polyester/nylon mix designed to keep hands temperate between 3 and 12 degrees.

I’ve only had chance to give them a cursory 20miles but was impressed by how temperate the early winter were, as the mercury slipped into single figures. Fit and dexterity are also immediately noticeable too. Flipping them over reveals subtle ulnar defending gel blobs. Grippy silicone detailing adorns the palms, thumb for improved communication with brifters. 

 

Let’s see what the next few weeks and a few hundred miles say.

Elsewhere, I’ve had another of those September inspirations. I’ve always been fond of the now seemingly defunct IRO range and specifically, their Rob Roy, which was similar in concept to On-One’s Ilpompino. https://www.flickr.com/groups/723385@N25/pool/

I had originally wanted to import a Rob Roy back in 2005 but the Ilpompino seemed a better bet all-round. Primarily this was down to concerns over import tax and of course, the baggage destroyers. Would probably bite, if I found a 54/56cm with tatty cosmetics at the right price.

This slightly scabby Peugeot competition frame also triggered my spidey-senses. Hailing from 1981, these were 531 frames in the main triangle sense, which kept prices, well, competitive!

I’ve seen a few sporting 531 part chrome forks, which look lovely. Since there is overlap between electroplate and enamel, the latter tends to flake eventually. Personally, I'd opt for a chrome effect powder coat and colour lacquer, second time round.   

Changeable weather has been perfect for testing the staying prowess of chain lube. I’m still on the first helping of TF2 ultra wax lube 330 miles hence, which is pretty good going, given these types are primarily intended for dry, dusty conditions. A full review will be coming to Seven Day Cyclist very soon. That’s it for now, off to prepare for next week’s NEC show.   

Suddenly September

 

September has arrived, with different, though very positive energy. Some people feel a sense of sadness, as the leaves turn auburn but for me, it’s always been a time of optimism. From a journalist’s perspective, it’s time for trade shows and exciting new kit.

Testing takes on a new dimension too. The weather is still temperate and relatively kind to components, yet changeable enough to keep things interesting. Longer, steady night rides, or the usual routes take on a new character, with changing light and temperature. That said; conditions still permit lightweight, friction busting, dirt phobic chain lubes. Since we’re on the subject, the Weldtite TF2 Ultra dry wax is holding up pretty well and as I’d expect, running very clean.

There’s no such thing as the wrong weather, rather it’s the wrong kit.

Twenty years ago, high power rechargeable lights commended £200. No longer does this mean a heavy lead acid battery that consumed a bottle cage. A 900 lumen compact torch light, such as this Xeccon spear costs less than £60 and in the highest setting, will still run for 90minutes from a fully juiced 2600amh, replaceable cell.

At the other extreme, there’s a town friendly, cell sipping 230 lumen mode, reckoned to deliver 6hrs 30 minutes from a full charge. I haven’t verified this, or the claims of 35 hours in strobe. Now, I’m fully aware that auction site specials, capable of twice this output (on paper) fuelled by relatively small lithium ion battery packs, can be had for £20.

Sure, they’re bright but the quality of output isn’t necessarily that good, thanks to basic lens and reflector. Similarly, although many are offering a 500lumen and strobe settings, the former is still overkill for suburban contexts. Again, being someone who does a lot of miles along pitch black lanes, I’m intrigued by those boasting big numbers.

I was particularly impressed last year, by Moon meteor storm pro https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/moon-meteor-storm-pro-front-light The Xeccon spear is very reminiscent of Moon LX760 that we also tested in Seven Day Cyclist last autumn. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/moon-lx760-front-light  It uses the same Cree XM2 diode and follows a similar shape. However, they are two very distinct lights.

Some folks suggest this genre have off road potential. In the sense of a quick forest or tow path short cut, perhaps. However, the hybrid spot and floods beam is best for asphalt. Stay tuned to Seven Day Cyclist www.sevendaycyclist.com for a full and conclusive response. Elsewhere, at the other end, I’ve been warming to the Xeccon Mars 60.

It’s termed a smart light and you’d be forgiven for thinking it was 60 lumens. There’s truth in both statements but it’s a bit more complex. Smart refers to the “Braking” function.

Regardless, which of the five modes you’ve chosen, it detects motion. Slowing down defaults to the 60lumen, steady mode, which is very intense at close quarters. Outside of that, 40 lumens is tops and more than sufficient for open roads. 20, or erven 10 is more appropriate for town, especially given the braking default I’ve just mentioned.

Elsewhere, September/October are prime times for bike prep. Give frames and components a decent helping of high quality wax preserve, ditto shoes, saddles. There’s been sufficient precipitation, the odd storm too, giving me the opportunity to see just how effective the Crankalicious leather lacquer and crisp frame hybrid frame wax are.

Both are convenient, dare I say, nice to apply. Crisp is reckoned to last 4months between applications. That’s true of many formulas-perfect when bikes are being put into seasonal hibernation, or during less taxing riding conditions, so I’m looking forward to seeing just how it holds up. 

Metal frames also benefit from a moderate helping of internal, oil based preserve. Commercially available aerosols are convenient and for the most part, very effective. They are cheap to manufacture and recipes vary.

Mine, developed over the past twenty three years; is made from old/job lot candles, solvent and semi synthetic motor oil. A small quantity poured inside the seat tube, distributed evenly around the frame’s inner sanctum should be sufficient.

Adding more solvent will achieve a spray able consistency but since I also use it to preserve my mk1 KA’s chassis and underside, the brush-on blend goes further, creates less clean up and ultimately, suits my purposes best.

Bearing in mind, these can also seal moisture in (the last thing you want) they should only be applied while the days are relatively temperate and arid. DISCLAIMER Such “metal medicine” is made and used entirely at your own risk. I will not be held responsible for any accident/damage however caused. If in doubt, buy commercially available products and seek professional advice.

Carbon composites don’t corrode, or deteriorate in the same fashion but they are very effective conductors. Bottom bracket sleeves, derailleur hangers and other areas are typically aluminium alloy.

Aside from treating painted and lacquered surfaces to decent quality waxes, strip the headset, bottom bracket, derailleur and skewers. Treat these to a stout, high quality ceramic/polymer grease to prevent galvanic corrosion (seizure of different metals) and other unnecessary misery later on.  

Petrochemicals aren’t kind to rubberised seals, or suspension linkages either. I’ve found a drop of Green Oil slip https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-slip-eco-lubricant https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-eco-spray-lube, or their eco-spray lube, perfect for small bushings/similar components.  On that note, I’m off to prepare for a trade show and put some more lights through their paces.