Chain Strain

I’ve found it difficult to get inexpensive, yet durable track chains these days. After 1500 miles, the 1/2link KMC is heading on up to the Great Bike Shop in the Sky. I’ve gone for two, another KMC-a Z510 and a Z1X hopefully, it’ll be as faithful, albeit potentially less durable than the Z1 X Inox SEVEN DAY CYCLIST'S 3000 MILE TEST OF A KMC INOX CHAIN The one minor niggle with the latter concerned the inox finish being too slippery, encouraging lubes to migrate from the rollers and to the side plates.  

Tension is a hotly debated topic and for some reason, I’ve found it trickier to get it just-so with ½ link models. I don’t tend to deviate from a 42x15 (ring and sprocket) configuration.  

The Z1X is a traditional single link design, so I had a wander around the web and discovered a chain-link calculator that promised to generate the correct (rounded up) length. (based upon chainstay length, ring, and sprocket size) ...Using said system, the chain for my set up should be 48 links long, which seems ridiculously short.  

Took a guess, using the dead ½ link, pruned and popped aboard. Tension adjusted and track nuts snugged tight, ready for the road again.  Roads are perpetually filthy but thankfully, the gritting lorries have been conspicuous by their absence. 

Post-ride examination of the drivetrain confirmed some minor but tangible play in its UN55 cartridge bottom bracket. I took this opportunity to replace it with a UN300, since the UN55 is seemingly discontinued. 

There’s one waiting in the wings for the Univega, once it’s existing gets the grumbles and a UN26 somewhere, just in case. 

However, while the latter units are solid enough, I’m not particularly taken with the plastic cup. Otherwise, this family is ultra-reliable, fit n’ forget units. So much so, Murphy’s law dictates they will expire when the bike shop’s closed.   

Elsewhere, I decided to add some more lubricant to the Kinekt stem spring and elastomer, using Slip. Slip is vegetable-based, contains no solvent, and therefore, leaves more, composite-friendly lubricant behind.  

Feedback from Kinket’s engineering team suggests this should be the cure for any squeaking/creaking.  I’ve always found elastomer-based systems are low maintenance but run happiest with a moderate helping of synthetic (rubber-friendly) grease. I also found the medium spring can lead to bottoming out on longer road climbs, especially on the fixed (where I’m out of the saddle and placing most of my weight on the bars and pedals). Replacing springs is straightforward but getting the upper spring guide aligned proved trickier with the firmer option. 

   

I’m keeping their seat post clean and protected via larger wedge packs and have switched to an Axiom Grand Fondo, which aside from being super convenient size-wise, offers precisely the surface area to protect the moving components from wet stuff thrown up by the rear wheel.  

I will switch to the dedicated Kinekt model at some point, over Christmas. However, I am interested in testing compatibility with other brands, shapes, and sizes, including bike packing luggage. (Especially given it’s a design that’s also marketed at gravel audiences).  

In common with other suspension posts, including Cane Creek Thudbuster TESTED: CANE CREEK THUDBUSTER ST SEATPOST (sevendaycyclist.com)  there’s an aftermarket boot option to shield moving parts from the elements.  Elsewhere, while unpacking and investigating the storage boxes, I hit the helmet light jackpot, courtesy of this 550lumen Silva Pave’ Front light hailing from 2015. The lightweight, fossil shaped light gives a much purer arc of light than 550 lumens would suggest.  

 

Freezing filth

No, I’m not going to discuss the best ways of archiving pornography, so click away if that’s your desire and you’ve stumbled on this by mistake... December has turned very dank with freezing fog presenting some challenges. In some respects, these improve the riding experience and sharpen handling skills.  

Despite the powerful K-lite Bikepacker Pro V2 dynamo lamp K LITE BIKEPACKER PRO V2 FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) navigating demands greater concentration, although this, coupled with the Magicshine SeeMee LEDs and a mix of day glow and retro-reflective clothing (including the Pro-Viz 360+ gilet) keeps me conspicuous along soupy lanes. 

There have been a few moments when I’ve thought it might be time to switch the Zilent2 TEST & REVIEW VEE TIRE CO ZILENT TYRES (sevendaycyclist.com) to the 42mm Continental Nordic Spike, for a bit more bite. I’ve rediscovered some laminated jerseys, which have an operating range between –5 and +10 degrees and they are reassuringly competent at these temperatures. Since we’re on the subject, here’s our general, overview guide to dressing for winter WINTER WONDERLAND TWO (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Returning from Tuesday night’s ride, I discovered the Acros Silicone Bar Wrap sporting a very tangible icy glaze. The Kinekt stem also continues to creak when the temperature plummets and damp, greasy conditions are thrown into the mix. Curiously, this doesn’t apply to the post, which works to the same principle.   

A helmet-mounted light is also handy for picking road signs etc out in the gloom. In terms of output, I’m talking 600-800lumens. Blackburn Dayblazer 800 is up to the task, although in common with the genre, battery life is quite short in the highest settings. In this respect, I would’ve been better served by its 1100lumen sibling, at comparable output.   

These conditions have also seen me apply a quick shot of ACF50 to the dynamo contacts. The bike is also filthy within a couple of rides, so by the third, I’m needing to give it a sudsy bucket washdown.

I deliberately left it a week, to get deeply crusty and as you can see from the right-hand chainstay, slurry, mud, spent diesel and seemingly, some flung chain lube.  

These conditions had almost literally stripped the Muc Off E-Bike Ceramic wet Lube too, within 125miles, which was another surprise. I was expecting it to last a little while longer. I’ve received a batch of grot busting goodies from Weldtite and Pure ranges-bang on cue.  

I decided to give the ratty looking transmission a liberal blast of the Weldtite Jet Blast degreaser before switching to the Weldtite Bikewash for a more global blow-over. This orange formula is one designed with a thirty-second standing period before you agitate with a soft brush, then rinse off. I gave ours two helpings and then inspected the frameset. No hint of streaking, or staining, which was a welcome surprise. A high-quality powder-coated finish, such as this is incredibly durable but welcomes periodic TLC. TWO TONE MAKEOVER (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Grit and similarly abrasive stuff clinging to outer cables can still (albeit relatively slowly) make inroads into the lacquer and ultimately topcoat, if left unchecked. periodic hard-paste waxing (as you should with any other painted, lacquered, anodised or polished finish) is another good move. Matt finishes are also well-catered for these days but stick with a matt-specific product.  

Minor imperfections, such as swirling and superficial scratches can be polished out with a cutting compound. Automotive types, such as T-Cut are fine but something like Crankalicious Mayo Jaune Intensive frame Cleaner TEST & REVIEW: CRANKALICIOUS MAYO JAUNE INTENSIVE FRAME CLEANER (sevendaycyclist.com) is a bit easier, since you can see the results in “real-time”; rather than needing to allow the product to haze, before buffing with a cloth and potentially adding subsequent coats.  

Good quality waxes lock the elements out, sheen in, and makes the bike easier to keep/clean. Bike dry, I also treated it to a helping of the Pure Protectant Spray. This is a water-based polish cum waxy barrier, which is best applied to the frameset and components via a clean, dry cloth.  

This maximises product life, while avoiding unwanted overspray to disc rotors/braking surfaces, saddles etc. Aside from nourishing the paintwork, it's also brought rubberised/composite surfaces back to their original lustre. Last, but not least, a quick shot of PTFE free maintenance spray to the cables, cleat mechanisms, fasteners and bushings/linkages to drive remaining moisture out and a lubricant layer behind.