Wax, Wheels, Caps & Brexit Bite

Easter’s bitterness has given way to fluctuating temperatures, so I’ve switched the wardrobe around a bit. ¾ lengths and shorts have been making appearances and I’ve switched to summer-weight caps, socks and gloves. Models such as this Buff Pack BUFF PACK BIKE CAP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) wick faster, which is also helpful when conditions turn showery.  

A decent peak will also protect the eyes and face from the sun, blustery winds, and airborne particles. April’s changeable nature means I’ve been sticking with photochromic eyewear, which adjusts to different light progressively and accurately. This eliminates any need to switch lenses should strong sunlight give way to dull and overcast conditions. Liner-type gloves are another useful bridge between seasons, although look for those with some form of palm padding. I’m still very fond of these Specialized, which sport nice ulnar defending detailing.

 

The Bat wax is also notable for its cleanliness and staying prowess. Admittedly, I've not encountered monsoon rains (but few people would go the wax route, knowing this was forecast). However, it seems temperature stable. I was surprised to learn 'it's a synthetic wax employing a water-based carrier. The synthetic particles are apparently more tunable, hence it’s a thinner layer, which attracts less dirt, whereas old school formulas tend to trap the grit in the top layer and eventually flake away, leaving a thin lubricant layer behind.   

Clean drivetrains are good practice full stop. Essential when switching between lubricants, especially those of different genres. Wax formulas ae particularly sensitive to any pre-existing lubricant, especially petrochemicals. My fixed gear winter/trainer’s drivetrain being a case in point.  

I had treated it to a good, but not meticulous clean, hence why the Univega’s transmission remains pristine, and it quickly assumed a superficially scuzzy state. Deep cleans are essential when fitting fresh chains, especially if you are opting for something water/emulsion-based.  

Otherwise, the pre-existing layer will simply float the wax away. Having established this was just unsightly and wasn’t impairing performance, I removed the drive side cranks and treated the ring and chain to a liberal helping of degreaser. In this instance, I reached for Squirt Bike Cleaner Concentrate SQUIRT BIKE CLEANER CONCENTRATE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and chased any residual with Pure Bike Degreaser PURE BIKE DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

I was surprised by the glaze of impacted, matted ceramic and wax formulas clinging to the Genetic Tibia ring GENETIC TIBIA TRACK CRANKS & RING | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) but this combination stripped it bare, with some gentle agitation and a liberal, warm water rinse.  Steve has been quite impressed with Muc-Off Bio Degreaser MUC-OFF BIO DEGREASER | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

Dried, refitted and tension tweaked, I applied another helping of Bat Wax and left curing for seven hours, before popping out for an evening blast. I’d passed the 250mile mark on Ursula before things turned a bit filmy, so just added another light coat, put the old girl away and then left the Bat Wax curing for another 24 hours. Drizzled a couple of drops on the cleat mechanisms and the Kinekt 2.1 Seatpost’s moving components KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), since I was there, and the post was emitting a very subtle squeak.  

Decided it was also time to do some refurbishment of the Teenage dream’s wheelset. Nothing major, since they are basically true (although would benefit from a wheel builder’s touch) and have seldom seen wet roads these past 30 years. 

 

However, I’d need to whip the freewheel and I may as well strip and regrease the Athena hub, while I’m there. The freewheel was caked in a waxy glaze, which was useful enough protection in storage but looked scuzzy, so dismissed and I treated the freewheel to liberal helpings of heavy-duty PTFE lube, while I wait for the Park Tool FR4 freewheel removal tool to show up.  

Thanks to the combination of Covid 19 and Brexit, stocks are low, and the original, proposed supplier was talking in terms of 5-6 weeks lead time. Another says two weeks, so I’ve gone that route. These long lead times are also affecting other industries- replacement car components being one of them. Particularly (although not exclusively) those for European marques. Then, of course, there are additional tariffs, likely arising from the UK’s hard Brexit- an unwelcome double whammy.  

That aside; nice to see that Park still offers one, since while fond of retro, I’m not paying fancy prices. That goes for cars, motorcycles, cameras too.  I’m very attached to the “Teenage Dream” and it’s still a joy to ride, but quaint by contemporary standards. Ah but while the nostalgic is misguided and arguably unable to embrace the future, the cynic knows the price of everything and the value of nothing...  

The Wheel Issue

Switched the fixed gear winter trainer back to the Mavic/Halo Fixed-G Track Hub HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting and I’d fed the chain some BAT Wax chain lube. Now, sweeping, broad strokes statements are inaccurate by definition. Caveat established; traditional wax lubes tend to be remarkably similar in terms of application, durability, and performance.  

The biggest similarity is their need for surgically clean host transmissions. Particularly true of emulsion/water-based blends, which will simply float away, if there’s the faintest trace of petrochemical product clinging to the rollers.  

In some instances, say, if I’ve been running a wet lube for a few weeks prior, I may well remove ring(s) and cassette(s) and leave them soaking in a degreaser stock, such as Squirt Bike Degreaser Concentrate SQUIRT BIKE CLEANER CONCENTRATE | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) or in the context of stainless/polished components, a master-blaster potion, such as Green Oil Agent Apple extreme Immersion Degreaser. TESTED: GREE OIL AGENT APPLE EXTREME IMMERSION DEGREASER (sevendaycyclist.com) 

Drivetrain immaculate, the wax can be applied. Bat follows the traditional shake and allow four hours curing time narrative. However, though the flow rate is good, and it seeps deep into the links, the thicker viscosity means it clings to the chain, rather than engulfing the floor and anything else in proximity. This could be attributable to the sudden dip in temperature but then I wouldn’t expect the wax to flow steadily. Will be interesting to see what the next few weeks bring. 

A few fast blasts over the easter weekend suggest it's smooth and friction is low. Whether it will rival some ceramic blends, such as Weldtite TF2 Advanced Ceramic Chain Wax TEST & REVIEW: WELDTITE TF2 ADVANCE CERAMIC CHAIN WAX (sevendaycyclist.com) remains to be seen. Nonetheless, the Bat Wax has made me sit up and take notice. Nice to have the Fix-G set up right again. Present gearing (700x32 165mm cranks and 16T) is now 70.9 inches, which translates as 19mph average and means I’m not busting my knees on shorter, sharper climbs.   

Not a new model by any means but I love the system’s design, which allows precision chain line and therefore, zero noise. An eccentric bottom bracket is the other solution but not one commonly employed on fixed gear builds.  

The Univega’s eagerly awaited XT/Rigida Sputnik wheel also arrived this week. I planned to leave it waiting in the wings while getting my final miles from the cheap but very cheerful Mach/Deore pairing. I went to consult my equine guru regards Ursula’s gearing. Seems I have been shunned, so will stick with the 12-25 until hyper-intelligent horse people say otherwise.    

Being a bank holiday, plans changed. Closer inspection suggested the rim was beginning to show signs of fatigue. Decision made. Out came the Pedros Vise Whip and trusty Cyclo cassette tool. Despite a liberal helping of Park grease on the lock ring, a quick blast of GT85 was needed before it would release.  

In keeping with other, bike (and non) related work, there are a wealth of views re-greasing freehub splines.  

I’m of the “add a thin layer” camp, although as many will point out, there’s little risk of galvanic seizure between the two components. More important is to grease the lockring threads with a suitably stout prep. Assuming you’re not using exotic components, old-school lithium should be fine, but I err towards synthetics for peace of mind.  

I also prefer tools with guide pins, since these afford more stability and ensure tool and splines engage flush, so no risk of slip damage.    

Cassette, rim tape, and skewer swapped, I disposed of the old hoop and fed the chain some Bat Wax, since I was there and because I am curious to see whether it will behave like other waxes on a derailleur setup. Temperatures in the mid-teens haven’t impacted on the lube’s flow rate or seen the lion’s share on the concrete beneath, which is a very welcome surprise. However, the proof of any lube is in the riding, so I’ll plod on.