You Never Know What’s around the Corner.

 

Belting along a wet, greasy backroad, just past sunrise I was suddenly serenaded by an awful loss of traction and disconcerting chatter- the fixed’s chain had derailed. I’m not sure who was more horrified- me, or the feline preening itself as I entered the bend. Pulling over to the left I discovered it had mysteriously jammed between the chain tugs. A moment of panic quickly subsided, and I reached inside the Topeak MTX Trunk Dry BagTopeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)for my Pedros Trixie and Pedros’ multi tool, so I could slacken the tug and the track nut.  

I was relieved to find these and doing so released the chain without incident. I hooked it back on the sprocket and front ring checked alignment and snugged the track nut down, ditto the chain tug. Tension sorted, I continued, relieved I wouldn’t be doing a ten-mile walk of shame. I’d just pulled in at home and discovered the front WTB Exposure rapidly losing pressure.  

Well, if it was going to happen, now would be most convenient. One thing led to another. Popped the fixed gear winter/trainer on the work stand, whipped out the wheel and traced the flat to a hedge clipping buried in the tyre’s shoulder. I nearly missed it, having swept my hand around the Exposure’s casing, found nothing and instated a new tube. Thankfully, I was able to free it with this set of needle-nose pliers. Tyre remounted and 70psi inside, I found myself busy with sudsy bucket and Green Oil Massive brush, giving my faithful friend a good clean.  

While cleaning the Spyre SLC calliper, I noticed the semi-metallic pads were OK but showing signs of wear. With more taxing conditions coming, sintered seemed the way forward. Always prudent to have consumables set by, since stuff often wears out at the least convenient moments. I also found another two 10speed chains while having a rummage for a suitable tube (not wanting to deplete the on-bike supply). The Ravemen LR1000 continues to impress me with its output and features- the ability to extend run times, refuel tech and indeed, the battery via another battery or power bank. The Wired remote doesn’t come with the package, I got curious and tried that belonging to the LR500 but being a few years old, the port end was micro-USB, while the LR1000 is the contemporary USB C.  

 I’ve also received this Zefal Supervision R150, which as the name suggests is a rear light producing 150lumens.  IPX6 for weatherproofing bodes well for wet winters and 5 modes (3 steady, two flashing) continue the practical narrative. I’m pleased to note a 15-lumen steady, which is punchy but not overpowering for town duties. The flashing are 150 and 50 lumens, which is great for daylight running and dark nights but overkill for other contexts, which may be a turn off for some. Weirder is the fact it isn’t supplied with a USB C charge cable. Given these things are ubiquitous and dirt cheap (unless that’s the logic for its omission) I’m astonished as to why one hasn’t been tossed in as standard. There are some other interesting quirks. The switch requires a sustained three-second press before the light will power up/down, a second longer than typical these days, which initially convinced me I must have a duff unit that wasn’t charging properly .      

Bike cleaned, re-lubed and put away, it was time to do a quick stint with Ursula. Fitting the headset and forks, specifically. Everything came together nicely, the new Stronglight unit given a liberal bed of Juice Lubes Bearing Juice.   

Inspecting the long serving One23 stem led me to pensioning it off- there was some weakness around the lips. It had done ten years or so and owed nothing. Took a while to track down a suitable substitute, but this ZOOM has proven to be perfect-a quick game of musical spacers and all sorted.  I also ordered some fresh stainless steel bottle boss screws from another supplier.  

I’m all for re-using good stuff but rebuilds are an opportunity to inspect, evaluate and replace things, as necessary. Unless they’re dog eared, I tend to put unwanted fasteners into the spares pot and carry a couple in a sealed packet on the bike, just in case I should lose something-a mudguard, or light mount for example. These and the cages were fitted during the same session and using the Oxford Mint Assembly Grease.        

Switches & Ursula's Return

 

I’d returned from the puncture marked ride and decided it was time to give Denise another deep clean, make some gentle tweaks and switch to the fixed gear winter trainer for a little while. This proved an ideal opportunity to put the Green Oil Massive Brush to good use. The added length and softer bristle plot mean it’s effective for all areas of the bike and kind to all surfaces, including paintwork.  I’ve always been fond of the original, standard model but the stiffer bristle plot means it’s better suited to wheels, tyres, bar tape and drivetrain components.    

As for the fixed, well I need to get some serious miles on the WTB Exposure, especially to assess their wet weather prowess and puncture resistance. Getting the balance between ride quality, reliability and durability is a difficult one. A tyre that delivers a spirited, engaging, and compliant ride but without flatting at the first hint of a flint is no mean feat. I’m generally fond of Schwalbe One 365 but have some quiet reservations about the puncture repelling belt, which only covers the centre strip.  

A moot point during a dry summer but wet roads serve as a lubricant. Sure, rolling resistance will drop but the water gives sharps easier passage inside the tyre casing. Anecdotally, others have praised the WTB Exposure’s compliance, speed and puncture resistance, so we’ll see. I’m hoping so. Formative impressions are of a very swift, compliant ride with excellent feedback when cornering on wet roads. A few hundred miles will reveal more. Wetter, characteristically autumnal weather has also presented an opportunity to get miles in with the Madison Flux Waterproof Trail Gloves.  

Flat palms are something of a bum steer. Padding density though uniform, is generous, giving excellent defence against low lever vibration without compromising connection with the bars and controls. Silicone detailing is less extensive than some but effective nonetheless and the detailing on thumb and fore finger make for excellent connectivity between touch screen devices. However, rummaging in pockets and operating trusty compact camera is proving trickier- especially on the fly. Thus far, the waterproof backs are doing their thing with similar aplomb and the extensive terry panel is great for taming runny noses etc.  Here’s my review of the Cycology Life Behind Bars MTB Gloves Cycology Life Behind Bars MTB Gloves | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  

As or the Shimano MW7, well I’m equally smitten. I remain a major fan of the MW5 but the MW7’s boa closure ensures a precise, almost custom fit. The sole is palpably stiffer, much closer to the RX7, which is particularly apparent when accelerating hard or keeping a high, smooth cadence, especially on the fixed.  

I’ve decided to raise the fixed’s saddle height by a centimetre or two and, having removed the post’s binder bolt was amused by how well the Weldtite Carbon Gripper held everything inline! Thankfully, it moved with minimal effort. I added some Mint Assembly Grease to the binder bolt while I was at it. 

As for Ursula. Well, Winston and Mario had sorted the repairs, modifications and refinishing. I received a message from Winston asking me to arrange collection before the weekend. Within twenty minutes, I’d organised and paid a courier, passing on the relevant info. Given it was Tuesday, Thursday was the earliest pick up.   

I was keen to get the old girl back, for a wealth of obvious reasons. (a) We’ve been through so much and covered so many miles together (b) I was eager to see the repair, refurb and modernisation in the flesh. (c) I wanted to complete the rebuild before winter. Winston had sent camera shot images of the work at various stages. Useful as progress snapshots and welcome but not an accurate representation of the frame finish etc, especially under tungsten light.   

Emerging from the box, I was relieved to find she’d survived the parcel destroyers unscathed and was the shade of grey I’d hoped for. The first thing I wanted to do was fill her inner sanctum with corrosion inhibitor.  I’d run out of my home brewed “hillbilly Waxoyl” so decided to go for a commercial formula instead.  

J Weigel’s Framesaver is another popular, frame specific staple. One I’ve used to good effect in the past. Ditto Pro Gold Steel Frame Protector. However, on this occasion. I spotted some more generic automotive prep designed for door sections and sills, lending itself nicely to KA and Micra duties, too. It’s essentially a wax type formula, so should go the distance, especially since I’ve applied during a dry and relatively mild period.   

The other option was to drop some 10W40 motor oil inside the seat tube and using GT85, or similar, to chase it around the frame. I’ve left Ursula sat on old newspaper overnight to absorb any residual and will then get busy with the Zefal Skin Armor ZEFAL SKIN ARMOR ROLL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)  to protect against cable rub and related damage before commencing the big build. 

Slower Dawns & New Seasons Lights

 

 

Dawn is taking longer; the leaves are beginning to fall and clump by the roadsides now. Slowly, but surely. I took the opportunity to strip and re-grease some components using the Mint Assembly Grease-Denise's pedal threads were obvious candidates, since I also wanted to see how effective the Park SS-15 was at shifting pedals.  

The right side came adrift effortlessly, but for some reason, the left Shimano PED ED 500 Shimano PD ED 500 Pedals | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) proved quite arthritic. Not to the point where I’d needed to resort to my lofty Lezyne, or indeed, penetrant spray but unexpectedly stiff, nonetheless.  

A moderate helping was also given to cleat hardware, since, if forecasts were to be believed, I might be reaching for the MW7 booties more often than expected. I’ve finished testing mitts and so switched to Madison Flux Waterproof Trail Gloves.  

Available in four colours and made from a Polyester Polyamide (53% Recycled) 20% Polyurethane mix they’re marketed as a model for changeable seasons. Madison says autumn to winter but I’m thinking the cooler end of Spring too, evidenced by the mid length and relatively shallow cuffs. These are elasticated, rather than Velcro for quick, faff free donning.  

The backs are waterproof, reinforced with taped internal seams. Internally there’s a Roubaix type fleece lining for when the temperatures and tanking but with very modest bulk, which coupled with the silicone detailing promises to optimise connection with the bars.  

Oh, and the thumb and forefingers are touch screen friendly, eliminating the frustrating need to remove them to make a call, or engage with bar mounted tech. As I’ve remarked on several occasions, I have mixed experiences with ulnar defending palms and sometimes a flat profile is the best fit. It’s a bit early to comment but our introduction is a pleasant one.     

Wet, gloopy lanes had also consumed the NZero Dry Wax Lubricant, Nzero Dry Wax Lubricant | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) so I reverted to the Wolf Tooth WT-1 All Conditions Chain LubeWolf Tooth WT-1 All Conditions Chain Lub | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) which has proven clean and stoical, yet not stodgy, or grime seductive. 

Continuing the seasonal theme, we’ve been sent these Ravemen lights. High power dynamos are my go-to's for general winter riding but I’m also a fan of potent rechargeable systems. Aside from master blasters with external battery packs, such as the XR6000 Ravemen XR6000 Front Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), and Sigma Sport’s long serving Buster HL 2000 SIGMA SPORT BUSTER HL 2000 | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) which are great for trail duties  Ravemen’s LR range has also impressed with their quality of output. The lens projects a combination of spot and flood yet is designed so it *won’t dazzle oncoming traffic. They seem much brighter than the numbers alone would suggest. The LR500S RAVEMEN LR500S FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) is a case in point.  

Sure, I’d prefer one of its bigger siblings for regular riding along unlit lanes, but I have been able to tackle these at 17mph on a relatively clear night. This time, I’ve received the LR1000 and TR100 units to see how they compare with the LR1600 Ravemen LR1600 Front Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) and TR200 Ravemen TR200 Rear Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) .  

1300 lumens are my benchmark for the backroads but even though I default to dynamos, especially on the fixed gear winter/trainer, I always carry a second light in case I need to tackle a flat, or similar roadside mechanical miles from home.  Otherwise, I tend to run them as companions and in flashing modes. Some models, including the LR1600 have sensored technology, which alters the output to suit conditions and ultimately, optimises battery life.   

Compact high-power models with integral batteries tend to have short run times in the higher modes, which is a consideration if you’re doing a lot of night riding and along unlit roads.  Hedge clipping season coupled with wet, mucky roads has announced puncture season. I’ve had two in the space of two rides. Mercifully, one struck just as I’d returned home, the second 5 miles away.  

I was very grateful for the Muc Off Air Mach pump. Very intuitive and relatively efficient by genre standards, even on higher volume tyres. Admittedly, these days, the CycPlus AS2 Pro Max EPump CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E.Pump | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) is my go-to but I’d never go without a reliable backup. Thankfully, a single tyre lever was all I needed to coax the WTBV Nano off the rim-I'd been a little remiss and this served as a reminder to pack some more.