Tyre Switched & Hubs Revisited

 

 With the leaves and rain beginning to fall, creating their unique mulch, I decided to switch Denise from the Continental Terra Competition Trail The Continental Terra Competition Trail | cycling-not-racing to the Maxxis Rambler Maxxis Rambler Tubeless Ready Tyres | cycling-not-racing and Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing, simply because I could. The other thing prompting this switch was a desire to run the Shutter Precision SL9 hoop, giving me time to strip and replace the Ultegra's bearings. I'd previously opened the hub and decided to re-pack with fresh grease as an interim measure but felt a deeper dive was in order. Afterall, that's what spare wheels are for...

Mercifully, it all went very smoothly, with a little help from two 17mm spanners, a magnetic bit, some clean rag, solvent and fresh ball bearings. Races seem fine-no pitting or similar woes. Given time was pressing and light was fading, I went for the Zefal Pro ii grease Zefal Pro II Grease | cycling-not-racing . It was plugged into my finish line grease gun, so quick and convenient to deliver. Besides, its seemingly very durable, which is another crucial factor. For the time being, I’ll run the Evura/SL9  HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD and enjoy the welcome tag team of lower weight and resistance.

I was initially convinced the Dh-3n71 would be 9 bearings per side, but counted 10 and replaced ten, before having the creeping suspicion there should be 11- not that I could see a means of packing 11 3/16" into the races. Having checked the manual, I was relieved to have ten confirmed. On the subject of bearings, while new budget balls are better than worn high grade balls, I've genuine Shimano, rather than risking something lower grade that will wear faster and besides, at £2.99 for 20, there's no financial incentive to do otherwise.   

Someone waved an XT crankset under my nose for less than £100 and the sensual sweet temptress from the upgrade dimension was definitely whispering in my ear. However, the voice of reason and fiscal prudence spoke louder. Undeniably tempting, the existing Deore setups feature steel rings, which are-all things being equal, more durable. Significant on bikes ridden year-round, in all weathers. Money that could be better spent on chains, cassettes and other consumables. 

30^th October marked the 40^th anniversary of me collecting my first Holdsworthy Claud Butler - a pivotal point in my life generally and cycling journey, specifically. Cycling has been one of the few constants throughout my life, which has had many changes and deviations from my anticipated scripts and trajectories.  Testing and fun aside, I reflect a lot on life and process all manner of stuff in the saddle. Thoughts and matters that can be worked through, processed and left out on the road. 

The present situation in France where legitimate protest is being hijacked by those with no interest in improving conditions in education, hell bent on destroying buildings and infrastructure. Some I suspect funded by foreign money, some fuelled by mindless violence and some seeing an opportunity to build a social media presence. One that in turn leveraged to make money. This aside, how is destruction of this kind, which will take years to rebuild and paid for through taxation-assuming sufficient monies can be raised going to profit anyone…

Ravemen have sent us some nice lights including this UR1700 front light and CL200 Rear. I was curious to see how the UR1700 compared with Magicshine’s EVO 1700 Magicshine Evo 1700 Underneath Light | cycling-not-racing  and Gaciron Cetus Gaciron Cetus 1700 Underneath Bike Light | cycling-not-racing. The UR 1700 produces a maximum of 1700lumens and eight modes across high and low beam. Three steady-200,400 and 800lumens. Two flashing modes-a 400lumen pulse flash and 100lumen eco flash and of course, the 1700lumen high beam. On paper at least, this caters for most riding environments.

Given this setup and the hi/lo beam configuration, the remote isn’t an optimal extra, rather like a car’s, it will dazzle oncoming traffic, if you don’t dip. The flashing modes are also located in the low mode. These are easily located with the remote but a faff, using the light’s main switch.  

The CL200 is the biggest in the range with six modes, a stop-start sleep mode and a braking function. In terms of flashing, we have a 200-lumen warning flash, 100lumen rapid flash, 3 lumen slow flash. Steady translates as 20, 10 and 5 lumens. Ravemen claim a maximum run time of 160hours, fully charged.  The lens projects a 300-degree arc of light, which theoretically prevents any stealth moments-say when negotiating roundabouts. IPX6 weather resistance is now the norm and bodes well for longevity, ditto the 1 metre drop resistance.    

This CL series also uses the same quarter turn mount, which looks similar to that employed by Magicshine and others but having experimented, I can confirm the pattern is different, so not interchangeable. However, second/replacements start at £4.99. The saddle rail mount isn't proving a universal fit. (Not that others are). That said; it is very secure.

Staying with Magicshine a moment, while testing the Ray3000 Endurance Bike Light With ANT+ Magicshine Ray 3000 ANT+ | cycling-not-racing, I resurrected a Ray 2600 from 2001. I’d whipped it aboard Ursula’s bars and was running it as backing singer to the K-Lite Bike Packer Pro V2 K LITE BIKEPACKER PRO V2 FRONT LIGHT | cycling-not-racing/daytime running light. Unlike some, the Ray2600 employs a wired remote and curiosity saw me rummaging through the remotes drawer. I unearthed another USB-C remote, plugged it into the port. My hunch it would work proved correct, so an alternative, should the OEM unit prove a little short for wider drops. Either way, I tether these inboard on the hoods for convenience and protection from everyday knocks, not to mention a spill.  I’ve also resurrected these Salice Glasses Salice 026 RW Glasses | cycling-not-racing since they offer an amber lens to boost vision, regulating light and mood in dull, overcast conditions.  I'll close here with my review of the Magicshine Seemee400 ANT+The Magicshine Seemee 400 ANT+ | cycling-not-racing 

Welcome Barriers

 

Winter, it is always said, brings harsher weather and less opportunity to fettle bikes, so preparing machines and rider for the elements makes the meaner seasons much easier on both.  Ceramic Coatings have been around in automotive circles for a good while and they’ve also been creeping into the cycling market over the past few years.

These promise long-lasting protection from UV light oxidisation, corrosion, swirls, scratches and similar nasties. However, they also require very thorough preparation, which can be time-consuming and harsh chemicals can still strip, or at least, impair their protectant qualities.  

Weldtite Rapid Ceramic Shield Weldtite Rapid Ceramic Shield | cycling-not-racing impressed me with its speed and convenience, requiring the minimum of prep-save for a good sudsy bucket clean to remove any pre-existing contaminant. It could then be applied via a damp cloth all over the bike. Some products aren’t designed for matt finishes, so check first.

Muc-Off has sent me their Ceramic, so It’ll be interesting to see how it compares with the Weldtite, Fenwicks and others I’ve tried in the recent past. It’s another formula designed to be sprayed, polished and done. Convenient and reportedly plays nicely with pre-existing ceramic coatings, so we’ll see… Chances are I’ll use the Weldtite Rapid Ceramic Shield as control and take things from there. Admittedly, testing will be in real-world, rather than laboratory conditions, which may make some claims trickier to evaluate.     

Having exhausted the All-Mountain Style Miami Glide Bicycle Chain Wax The All Mountain Style Miami Glide | cycling-not-racing , I’ve given Denise a deep clean, since I needed to strip the drivetrain before switching to Weldtite All Weather Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing. The KMC X10 was registering next to no wear, so we’ll see how many miles I can amass before it hits .75 and becomes bin fodder.  

Inspecting the brake pads revealed some very palpable wear. I had spares, so switched them, stripping and cleaning the bosses before adding a light coating of Juice Lubes Slick Juice Juice Lubes Slick Juice Low Friction Gre | cycling-not-racing and some thread lock to the mounting bolts. Cables were fine, ditto the Tektro levers, so didn’t merit a more involved tear down. I’ll switch to the Dia Compe when cables and bar tape need replacing.  

While searching for my headset spanners, I unearthed a little-used 11-25 cassette sporting some ingrained waxy grime. This was popped in a tub and left marinating in Juice Lubes Bike Cleaner Concentrate, while I fettled. Hollowtech bearings felt fine, some very minor play removed from the Stronglight headset, it was just a matter of giving the cables, pivot points and cleat mechanisms a quick squirt of Muc-Off MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing

Removing the Lomo Zephyr Lomo Zephyr Waterproof Panniers | cycling-not-racing prior to the wash and fettle revealed they were in rude health eighteen months mixed-terrain use later. The sprung release system has required the odd shot of maintenance spray but aside from being given a liberal blast of bike wash, worked into a lather when deep-cleaning the bikes, they've just done their thing incredibly well.

No obvious signs of wear, or deterioration anywhere. Nothing budget about their feel or build quality, which is particularly impressive given they're £34 apiece. Back to the chemical romance, just ahead of the muckier season, Leatt have been in touch keen for us to try their new GRITT range of bike care (I can assure you the feeling is mutual) which includes bike wash, degreasers, chain lube, ceramic coatings and tubeless sealant.

Elsewhere, I strongly suspect I may have purchased a couple of counterfeit KMC chains via a well-known auction site. They were very convincing- I couldn’t tell, initially. However, one fitted to Ursula, coinciding with the new freehub and cassette, snapped while out on a shakedown outing.

On the plus side, everything was behaving impeccably, which was a relief and confirmed it was the freehub, not a brake issue. Passers-by also slowed to check I was OK- something that really touched me, especially in the present climate. After some deliberation, unable to find a quick link, I did what we shouldn’t do with ten speed chains-shortening it by a couple of links. Sometimes we can’t do everything by the book. I rode the remaining 6 miles home, carefully but glad of riding and not walking.

 Upon my return, I replaced the chain for one I knew to be a genuine KMC, while also doing some light remedial tweaking of the rear mech to ensure everything was bang on. I ordered some spare quick links. Silver linings some might say but crucially, I was able to end the ride on a positive note.  Talking of which, here’s the link to Steve’s review of the Leatt MTB Hydradri 5.0 Pants Leatt MTB Hydradri 5.0 Pants | cycling-not-racing  and mine of the Magicshine Ray 3000 Endurance Bike Light with ANT+ Magicshine Ray 3000 ANT+ | cycling-not-racing

Fresh Freehubs & Imaginations Fired

 

As I’ve said before, a good shop is worth their weight in gold. Collecting Ursula’s XT wheels, Sean advised he’d replaced the freehubs, hub bearings-no sense doing otherwise, since you need to strip the hub down. Besides fresh bearings and grease are pennies. Sean also gave both wheels a very quick tweak, which was similarly welcome, although neither were wandering. Prevention is always cheaper and more convenient than cure.

It was also nice to have found and addressed the phantom tinkling, which I'd convinced myself, could only be the rear TRP Spyre. Both wheels were around 4 years old and had one set of bearings apiece. The freehubs would’ve done around 12,500 all-weather mixed terrain miles apiece, so didn’t owe me anything. I’d fitted a six-bolt Shimano Deore rotor to the Ryde/XT hoop shod with the Nutrak and having done so, noted that was only suitable for resin pads. Not a problem, since that's what the rear Spyre was presently running but a reminder not to go the sintered route next time.

I've had good experiences with EBC pads and Disco Disc Brake Pads, so will opt for these come replacement time. Not that cable operated pads tend not to wear particularly quickly, at least compared with hydraulics, but winter’s salty cocktail can still chomp through them with frightening efficiency. Keeping a couple of chains, cables and brake pads in stock is a good idea.  Meantime, having resolved the issues, I’ve dialled the pads a little closer for more bite-especially since I’ve been doing a lot more trailer tugging of late.

I’d also taken this opportunity to strip and lightly regrease Ursula’s Topeak Road Master Blaster Frame Fit pump Topeak Road Master Blaster Frame Pump | cycling-not-racing using the Juice Lubes Slick Juice Juice Lubes Slick Juice Low Friction Gre | cycling-not-racing. Now, frame fit pumps have fallen out of fashion and on some levels, I can see why, especially given the increased dominance of electric compressor types, including Muc-Off’s Air Mach Muc-Off Airmach Electric Inflator Pro | cycling-not-racing and Cyc Plus CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E.Pump | cycling-not-racing. Sure, these are my defaults for speedy road/trailside rescue, especially when the temperature’s tanking. However, for all their considerable charms, I like a decent backup.

While I can understand the minimalists aversion, in an emergency, I don’t want to be struggling. The Road Master Blaster is reckoned good for 160psi. I’ve no problems raising flaccid 700x25c to 110psi. The large fits super securely along Ursula’s top tube and though there’s some slight trade off when shouldering bikes (I just slip it in a pannier) for me, it’s a small price to pay. Having done sufficient miles with Specialized Crossroads EX as control, now was the time to explore the Nutrak Vee Swift Frenzy Gravel Mud Tubeless Ready Tyres prowess in soft, muddy soil.    

 

Traditionally I've run 1.9 sections through winter since they offer a little more speed, improved clearance around the frame's rear triangle and on older, rigid mountain bikes, the fork's unicrown. Ingrained stones and grit and gloopy trails would act as a very effective abrasive, blasting paintwork bare, rapidly resulting I superficial but unsightly corrosion. A moot point with broader, straight leg designs, including these Carbon Cycles  Carbon Cycles Exotic Fork | cycling-not-racing   

I also recognise this choice is influenced by the all-terrain bikes that swept in around 1986 and never released their grip on my imagination. Bikes that could go anywhere-escape the maddening crowd yet still hustle along metaled roads with conviction…Muddy Fox's Trailblazer, Bridgestone's MB-1 and of course, Specialized’s Rock Combo being three that occupy said hall of fame.  Rack and mudguard (fender) mounts, stable enough for long haul load lugging (should you desire).

Machines that some now suggest were the precursors to contemporary gravel bikes. Again, I can see why people make these comparisons. I prefer panniers and post mounted SQR type luggage to contemporary frame mounted bike packing types. Primarily since I can get a rack refinished cheaply and easily, when time comes-although in both instances, dressing the areas of the rack or frame in old inner tube will greatly reduce this likelihood.  “You don’t criticise my paint, I won’t criticise your arc” as a shipyard painter said to the welder.  

For gravel and winter riding generally, I’ve concluded a low maintenance, grippy bar wrap trumps the traditional, and still worthy corks.  Muffin’s Genetic Hi-Grip is still delivering the goods-rugged and easy to clean, although I’ve a suspicion the backing will separate from the top layer once it weathers. Demise’s Ergon Orthocell Ergon Orthocell Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing  is another hard-wearing example and was easily ported over to the Genetic Digest.  All these discussed don’t absorb moisture, hardwearing and low maintenance.  

Softer ground and winter’s general nastiness also lends itself to simplicity. Rigid forks give a more direct feel, require virtually no maintenance and save a few grams into the bargain.

Now, my love of Specialized’s Crossroads EX tyre is long established but now appears to be discontinued. Given the all-terrain and blended genres I’ve been referring to, I’m very intrigued by their Hardrock'R Wirebead All Terrain Tire. Filed under their “City Bike” category and available in 26x2.0, 27.5, 650Bx2.0 and 29x2.0.

It looks as if it could well be a contender. I’ve not encountered one in the flesh, let alone tried them, but they have sparked my imagination. The Hemisphere are another re-entry. I ran a set of 26x 1.95 for commuting across South London 25 yeas back and found that version dependable, albeit ponderous.

Tooled Up & Misdirected Blame

 

With hedge-clipping season in full swing, my attention turned to tyres, tubes and crucially tyre levers. The latter are largely forgotten until we're crouched by the roadside on a cold and rainy night, trying to release a particularly tight bead. With this in mind, Weldtite has sent me their 2.0 tyre levers and a rather nice looking twenty-function multi-tool.

The latter's design is reminiscent of the Crank Brothers M19 with its knurled side plates for grip-even with sweaty palms or wearing winter gloves. I’ve an M17 still serving, it’s a little world weary now, the chain tool long expired and a bent (but still operational) 3m Allen key.  One of the more interesting features-a welcome addition in principle is the disc brake rotor tool.  

They also sent me the smaller version of their Rubber Workshop Matt with Magnet. The Rubber ensures it won’t slide around and the magnetic layer ensures you’ll foil rogue felines looking to play ball bearing billiards. I’ve gone for the smaller size since it’s portable, meaning I can do small jobs, like headset and hub overhauls outside, should need, or fancy take me. The relatively thick rubber will protect surfaces, especially if exerting force- say exorcising a stubborn pedal, or hub.

Having tweaked the Spyre into what I believed was sweet submission, I was still experiencing a faint, intermittent tinkling. I decided a quiet byway was the best place to conduct a thorough troubleshoot.  Monitoring the rotor and pads with sporadic acceleration confirmed this wasn't the culprit.

A gentle tug of the cassette revealed some minor, but palpable play, suggesting the freehub was the most likely culprit. Post-ride investigation confirmed this. Murphey's Law also revealed the spare XT laced hoop was also showing signs of isolated play. Yup, another freehub bit the dust.

Not having replacement freehubs and hub bearings to hand, I decided the most efficient use of time and energy was to leave both wheels with Madgetts Cycles. This was an opportunity to get everything checked ahead of winter, while I tackled other pressing matters.

Decent bike shops are worth their weight in gold. Just because we can do the jobs, it’s not always convenient, or the best use of our time.  I’d have my wheels sorted and ready by the time it took two compatible freehubs to arrive in the post. 

All this had me pondering the acquisition of a newer XT hub running a centre lock disc and having that built into a wheel, laced three-cross for some added strength. Not that I'm unduly heavy or have a less than compassionate riding style, but greater stress is placed upon the rear wheel, especially with a disc brake.

I'd contemplated 36 spokes, but chances are I'll stick with a 32, since this would allow me to use an existing rim.  The most likely candidate being that presently hosting the Halo Spin Doctor, which has done a very modest mileage.  During this phase, I spotted this 36-hole Shimano FH-RM70 going for proverbial pennies. Loosely comparable with Alivio, it’s simple and rugged, although will benefit from a really beefy grease to keep winter’s worst out. Designed for rim brakes, its most likely something I’d have built into a spare wheel for Denise.   

Meantime, I’d noted Ursula’s chain was closer to .6, so replaced it, along with one of the cassettes, since a new chain will only kick up on new sprockets and vice-versa. I’ve reverted to wax while the autumn seems fair-weather, although chances are I’ll default to the Weldtite All Weather Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing . Weldite have also sent me their Wet Lube, which I’m advised is a successor to their Extreme Wet WELDTITE TF2 EXTREME WET CHAIN LUBRICANT .

The Extreme wet was a mix of ISO oils and specialist additives, whereas the wet consists of (detail). While stodgy wet lubes will attract dirt ad grit, which left unchecked, can significantly shorten the lifespan of drivetrain components, they still have their place.  Aside from staying put in really harsh conditions, they double as passable grease substitutes on fasteners- stem bolts, mudguard and rack, bottle screws and cleats being prime examples. A drop into electroplated Allen heads will also fend off the dreaded orange taint.

Too heavy for cables, a drop on the ends where they enter the ferrule will help seal the elements out. Another useful product that works well on cables is Finish Line 1 Step Cleaner and Lube TEST & REVIEW: FINISH LINE 1-STEP CLEANER AND LUBE. Marketed primarily as a chain lube, the aerosol version is particularly effective-I’ve witnessed it bring gummed up shifters back from the brink with a couple of blasts. The solvent component does the cleaning and leaves a light lube-much sturdier than a maintenance spray behind.

In a pinch, a few drops of wet lube will also keep quick release skewers mobile-at least until you can get to some decent grease. I’ve been fairly impressed by the Juice Lubes Slick Juice Juice Lubes Slick Juice Low Friction Gre | cycling-not-racing which is kind to rubberised and composite components, so can be applied most components and surfaces.  Obviously not for carbon and other materials requiring a gripper paste.

Right, since we’re creeping ever closer to the wetter months, I’ll leave you with Steve’s review of the Leatt MTB Hydradri 5.0 Jacket Leatt MTB Hydradri 5.0 Jacket | cycling-not-racing

Pumping & Prepping

 

Not in the Mad Max post-apocalyptic sense, although global events and the political climate have certainly left me imagining some very dark scenarios. Growing up in the 1980s, I recall the very real threat of nuclear war and societal collapse and frankly, we seem closer to both scenarios, now…

After ten years, I was compelled by the urge to strip and inspect the Blackburn Piston 4. Would a good clean and regrease of the gasket and piston (plunger, if you prefer) restore its slick, refined efficiency? The hose and chuck were al in good shape and it was still very functional, delivering the desired pressures but the piston action and airflow weren’t optimal.

Undoing two little Philip screws, everything separated smoothly and in one piece. Gasket and plunger were sporting a gungy beard, but essentially sound. Degreasers can be a little harsh, so I gave both parts a light rinse with tepid water and then treated both to a few blasts of Juice Lubes Bike Wash.

Now, I’d generally steer people toward solvent based aerosol cleaners, or industrial alcohol when cleaning the barrel’s inner sanctum. However, I blasted some Motoverde Drivetrain Degreaser inside and left it doing its thing for five minutes, turning my attention to the gasket and piston. A gentle tickling with this Green Oil Bike Brush GREEN OIL BIKE BRUSH REVIEW and some tepid water cut through the grot.

Rinse, dry and reach for grease. Swerve anything lithium, or PTFE-based. When it comes to Silca, only use their dedicated preps. Otherwise, silicone formulas are a good default, but I’ve gone for the Juice Lubes Slick Juice. Liberal around the gasket, sparingly along the piston’s lower section. That done, I returned to the Piston 4’s barrel. I dried this in two stages. Some old, scrap towel doing the lion’s share, judicious deployment of a hairdryer on medium heat removing any residual, mischievous dampness.

On a roll, I took the same route with my SKS Air-X-Plorer Digi Floor Pump SKS Air-X-Plorer Digi Floor Pump | cycling-not-racing. This is stereotypically Teutonic in terms of build quality. Same MO, save for the collar screws being M25 Torx. Piston, spring and gasket were particularly solid. This time, I cleaned these with bike wash but exorcised the barrel using an aerosol solvent cleaner. Everything slid back together beautifully, any faint stiction well and truly banished.

Well and truly in the zone, I popped Muffin in the work stand and decided to remove the Genetic Tibia crank, clean and inspect the ring and give the frame a good waxing while I was about it. Be rude not too… I’ve gone for self-extracting bolts and was initially disconcerted by their reticence. Gentle persistence with the 8mm Allen key secured the drive side’s release.   

A tag team of Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner | cycling-not-racing and Muc-Off Chain Wax Cleaner Muc-Off Chain Wax Cleaner 500ml | cycling-not-racing  consumed the slightly gungy residue clinging to the teeth, making inspection and assessment viable. The ring is still in good shape, so stays for now. I’ll review come November and at that point, will take a view and chain replacement may be all that’s called for.

I turned my attentions to the TRP Spyre SLC, giving the pads and disc a cat-lick, ensuring the piston movement was optimal. An easy, preventative tweak. Muffin back in the workshop, I turned my attention to Denise. I was keen to see whether the Magicshine Ray3000 would sit securely atop the auction site Garmin Mount.

Given the light’s girth, I needed to relocate the Genetic Neuron Accessory Bar GENETIC NEURON ACCESSORY BAR | cycling-not-racing outboard, necessitating a quick dip into the shim bag. While on that particular mission, I found another Magicshine handlebar mount, which is an improvement on that supplied with the Coospo Real Road CS600 GPS Bike Computer Coospo CS600 GPS | cycling-not-racing  . Sure the bars feel a little busier, which might bring the clutter-phobic out in hives. However, there was a bigger, unwelcome surprise in store. During our first outing, the out-front mount ejected the Ray3000. Testament to its build quality, not so much as a scratch.

Closer inspection revealed the plastic Garmin pattern mount had deformed and fractured at one point. I switched the light to the resin Magicshine mount and popped the Coospo CS600 in my jersey pocket for the remaining five miles. Diagnostics done, I arrived home, had a rummage in the spare munts bag and found a replacement. I also took the opportunity to exchange the Gaciron Cetus 1700 Gaciron Cetus 1700 Underneath Bike Light | cycling-not-racing mount for the Magicshine Hori 1300 Magicshine HORI 1300 Front Light | cycling-not-racing for those times when I’m testing the Ray 3000 on another machine and I want more lumens than the Exposure Revo dynamo lamp can muster.