Level Headed...Lids, Mental & Physical Loads

 

“It doesn’t matter how good a rider you are (or believe yourself) you will always come off”. Source my late father, who had for a time worked for Matcheless Motorcycles in Plumstead, South London. His role was in personnel, looking after the test riders who were employed to test machines in some cases, literally to destruction.   

I hold dear the right to choose when it comes to helmets, but I also hold dear the ability to think, to make decisions and enjoy my own sense of agency. Against this backdrop, I ‘ve been sent this MET Miles Mips helmet. It’s a sub £70 model defined as being “A touring model with roadie spirit”.

On paper at least, specification is favourable, taking everything into account. Aside from the MIPSC2 system, we have seventeen vents, washable pads, ponytail compatibility, compliance with CE, AS/MZS and US standards.  This one’s gloss white but there’s four other choices, including a very fetching teal.

Loosely speaking, MIPS should be thought of as a roll cage for the head, protecting the head against twisting, rotational forces which are contributary to concussions and more serious brain injury. Afterall, falls and crashes tend to involve tumbles, not s singular strike onto a hard surface. It’s a very thin, low friction layer moving within the helmet, helping to redirect this force and with it, brain injury. 

Neurological injuries have scary, life-changing implications. I’ve worked with acquired brain injuries and related conditions, such as stroke and cardiovascular incidents in previous careers. Sometimes full recoveries are possible, but sometimes the person we knew is lost. I recall walking into a Regional Neurological Rehabilitation Unit and seeing a woman in her mid-twenties who could only cry-no other form of expression. She had been the pillion rider in a motorcycle accident. It turned my blood cold.

It's important to note that helmets, like locks are only effective if used correctly. Anecdotally, I see a lot of people riding with badly fitting helmets, whether this be down to sizing, or adjustment. A helmet tipped back exposing the wearer's forehead will offer no protection in a crash and could also cause injury.  Measure your head's circumference (using a fabric, not steel) tape measure) just above your ears and brow in centimetres.

This will give you the correct size, but it's worth noting some styles and designs may also influence this, so it's worth trying a few. "Ponytail ports" have become increasingly popular in recent years, allowing an easier exit for one's mane and seem genuinely more comfortable for riders with longer hair.   Similarly, trail, or commuter models often come with peaks and a profile more accommodating of lights and similar, although I'd resist fitting action cameras and similar tech, since these can also cause injuries in a spill.  

The helmet should sit horizontal and with a small (1-2 finger width) above your brow. Fine tuning the helmet is usually a question of loosening, or tightening a thumbwheel, or similar ratchet-type system at the back and either slackening or tightening the straps.  These should, ideally sit just below the ears and snugly around the chin, while still allowing you to chew, or chat comfortably. With the chin straps secured, tweak the ratchet type closure and check there's no movement, but without the sensation of your head being compressed in a vice.  From here, you're unlikely to adjust frequently, only when wearing a cap, or similar beneath.  

 A life without risk is no life at all. I’ve also run services for people with learning disabilities and while an understandable reaction, many parents had wrapped their children in bubble wrap and sought to eliminate any potential risk. This was very sad and regrettably also backfired.

Just a small snapshot of my thoughts while meandering down the backroads, lanes and trails. A drier, mild interlude has seen me exorcising sections of superficial surface rust along the KA’s sills (signalled by unsightly bubbling) and return to Denise, testing the Weldtite wax lube, stem swap and Gaciron Cetus 1700 front light.  All continue to impress, albeit with some limitations and compromises, although nothing I couldn’t live with long-term.  There’s still a few weeks before I reach any firm conclusions.Meantime, I'll leave you with my review of the Magicshine Hori1300 Magicshine HORI 1300 Front Light | cycling-not-racing

 

Falling Leaves & More Lumens

 

The roads lanes and trails are increasingly carpeted in leaves, horse chestnuts and acorns. I love autumn and always have. The wilder winds continue to bestow us with interesting lights. Gaciron has sent me their Cetus and Loop lights. The 1700 lumen Cetus bears striking resemblance to the Magicshine Evo 1700 Underneath Light Magicshine Evo 1700 Underneath Light | cycling-not-racing tested last year, so it will be interesting to see how the two compare.  

The Gaciron tips the scales at 269g, the Magicshine is smaller and slightly lighter at 216g all told, scotching suggestion of badge engineering. Both offer 1700 lumens, employ “cut off beams”, like those employed on car headlights and are designed to be mounted beneath the bars.

The longer brackets might lack the aesthetic purity of some, but I’ve found them a better fit with bar bags, where compatibility hassle can arise-especially with the capacious bike packing types.

The cut-off beam patterns are becoming increasingly popular and for tarmac duties, I’m forming the opinion they’re a plus point. However, a dual flood and spot system rules the roost when you’re venturing away from asphalt, or indeed down some very lonely, singletrack lanes.  Both have wireless remotes as standard, which is very welcome, the Magicshine HORI employing an integrated rechargeable cell, the Gaciron a disposable CR2032. Both have their pros and cons and playful testing confirms they will not command the other.   

As for the Loop, this is a six-mode rear light capable of producing 100lumens. As is the trend these days, it features a “braking” function, which I’m pleased to report, can be disengaged. IPX6 for weather resistance and a CNC machined aluminium housing bode well for durability.  Aside from post, there’s a saddle rail mount and I’ve found the post mount will also entertain thicker diameters of rack tubing.  The mounting hardware, plastics specifically feel lower ren than some but is nonetheless, sturdy enough in situ.

Talking of durability, after a few weeks and a fair bit of trail action, I’ve given Ursula a thoroughly good deep clean and waxing, stripping any residual, filmy remnants of Weldtite Wax, replacing it with the latest version of their All-Weather Lube. Mysteriously the right bar con shifter decided to go on strike. Nothing a minute slackening of the tension and turning of the rear mech’s barrel adjuster couldn’t correct.

Although not ideal, one of the definite advantages of bar end shifters is the ability to switch to friction, should circumstances dictate. That’s not to say that I don’t like brifters-in the right settings, they’re very pleasant to use. However, their complexity renders them vulnerable in a spill and by definition, stuff wears out faster.  

Not ideal on a rough stuff tourer, drop bar mountain bike and I would also argue, gravel bike. However, all these constructs mean different things to different people.  That sorted and a couple of hundred miles with the All-Weather Lube, I got curious and whipped out the chain checker .6- .7 means Great Bike Shop in The Sky for 10speed chains.

Since opportunity presented, I gave the drivetrain a good exorcism, then fitted a new KMC X10.Shifter blip aside, changes were smooth, right until replacement but beyond a certain point, it’s amazing how much difference a fresh chain makes-confirmed by a sweep of the block on the work stand. Another little job off the list ahead of the potentially wet and unforgiving months ahead. It’s always cheaper to replace a chain than allow a worn one to consume ring(s) jockey wheels and cassette.   A great opportunity to test out the Oxford Chain Scrubber. Formative impressions are favourable. Much comes down to a combination of tenacious bristle plot that grips the grot and an unexpectedly ergonomic handle.

 

I’m still Running Denise’s X10 on the Weldtite Wax Lube, since it’s been drier and I’m interested in seeing how it performs on a geared build in drier, sometimes dusty contexts. Switching to a shorter stem was definitely the right move and the Profile quill stem converter, perhaps unsurprisingly, seems much stiffer than the auction site special, which is another definite plus. I’ve concluded there’s no call to place spacers beneath the stem. Aesthetically, it doesn’t add much and there’s no engineering grounds for doing so, either.        

Progressively cooler temperatures have seen me reaching for long sleeve, super tactile Merino blend jerseys and when the harsh winds blow, a gilet too. ¾ lengths and full finger gloves are my other defaults and generally this ensemble serves me well, at least on early morning outings when the mercury’s slow to rise beyond single digits. Talking of digits and purchase, here’s my review of the M Part Primo Anti Slip Silicone Gel Bar Tape  M Part Primo Anti Slip Silicone Gel Bar | cycling-not-racing

September Switches & Style Statements

 

The wet and decidedly abrupt introduction to September was perfect for assessing the staying prowess of chain lubes, tyres and waterproof technical kit. I'd been wanting to see how effective the Leatt pedals were at shedding mud and other contaminant, so switched Ursula's Shimano A530 and headed for the bridleways.

I wasn't expecting otherwise but was relieved to discover they're on par with Shimano M540 (which I’ve switched back to Muffin following a generous re-greasing), XT and their homages.  The waterlogged conditions have also seen me donning these Shimano MW702 Shimano MW7 (MW702) Gore Tex MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing booties, which make an excellent transition between cross country mountain biking/gravel riding and general winter road duties.

 I'm still fond of the MW05Shimano MW501 Dry Shield SPD MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing, but the MW07's stiffer sole, refinements and improved weatherproofing give better connection with the bike and protection from the wetter roads. Especially paired with waterproof socks-no such thing as the wrong weather, just the wrong kit. Oh,and yes, I know Ursula’s front guard is the “wrong” way round-I’m experimenting to see how much difference this makes-good, or otherwise.  

 Somewhat predictably, the constant exposure to wet, waterlogged roads has put a dent in the Weldtite Wax lubes’ staying prowess.

 Nonetheless, I returned 140 miles from a double up application on Muffin and applied a top up since it coincided with a deep sudsy bucket clean.  Even then, a tangible filmy later remained and no trace of corrosion on the links.  Ursula and I continue to enjoy the green lanes and bridleways to see how clean and stoical the wax proves in these contexts. Then of course, I wanted to see how effectively the Leatt Endurance 6 pedals shed mud.

Temperatures have been in the high teens, so I've stuck to bib shorts, although have progressed to ¾ lengths on dawn outings when the mercury's still slumbering in single figures.  Staying with footwear a moment, I’ve also reached my conclusions regarding the FLR MXT Vibram Trail Shoes FLR MXT Vibram Trail Shoes | cycling-not-racing

 ¾ lengths have often been regarded as a rider faux pas off road and on some levels, I agree. However, they're also very practical bridge garments and relatively complementary worn with more trail orientated jackets, such as the Madison RoamMadison Roam 2.5 Layer Waterproof Jacket | cycling-not-racing . Nothing against mtb baggies, they just aren't my thing. 

Now the nights are drawing in and its dark in this region from 1900hrs onward, it’s nice to find ourselves receiving a gentle trickle of winter kit. On the lighting front, we’ve just taken delivery of this Sigma Buster 1600 and RL150 pairing, which as the names would imply is a front light pumping out a maximum of 1600lumens and a rear light capable of 150, which promises to cater for the darkest lanes. That said, this genre of front light, run times are relatively short at full and higher outputs, so ensure the lower modes are suitable for your typical riding requirements.

It will be interesting to see how it compares with the Ravemen LR1600 USB Rechargeable Curved Lens Front Light Ravemen LR1600 Front Light | cycling-not-racing  The RL150 has five modes. Two steady and three flashing. The full 150 refers to the day flash, night flash is 25 lumens and eco flash is 5. The two steady are 40 and 5 lumens respectively, which on paper at least, sounds a wide gap- something around the 10, or 15 lumen mark would’ve been more obvious. However, real world performance is what really counts.

There’s also a braking function and I’m curious as to how much of an impact this will have on the run times.

I’m still toying with the idea of placing one inch Ahead spacers beneath Denises’s stem. Now, there is no mechanical need to do this, since the expander wedge is what keeps everything firmly in situ. The Profile Design adaptor is also made to a much higher standard than the no-name auction site specials.  However, I have some black spacers in the spares tray, which would work both in terms of height and aesthetics. I’ll give it a few weeks and some more thought.  

Though I tackled most of the pre-autumn stripping, regreasing and corrosion inhibiting, it’s that time of year to add a lick of silicone grease to battery contacts on computers and where appropriate, lights to keep the elements from wreaking havoc. IPX6 isn’t uncommon for lights these days but those meeting IPX4 or 5 usually get a quick lick, or periodic shot of PTFE free maintenance spray to flush through and leave a protective barrier behind.  

Breaks in the wetter conditions has also seen my checking and topping up the waxy corrosion inhibitors before the cold, dark and wetter months set in. This obviously extended to cars. There was a generous helping cling to the KA’s chassis and underbody, which as reassuring, although I’ve given a light top up coat while opportunity presented and it would cure quickly enough to avoid moisture being trapped inside. 

Lube it, Scrub It, Hold It, True Them

 

Though I generally treat fixed and single speed chains to middleweight wet formulas, I decided Muffin’s Izumi to the Weldtite Wax and was pleasantly surprised by how frisky the transmission felt, while remaining serenely quiet. For context, I was averaging 18.1mph in contexts where otherwise I average 17.1mph.

Without lab testing facilities, much of this is easily attributable to psychosomatic, dare I say novelty influence, so many more miles in different conditions are needed before passing tangible comment. Weldtite say by using the double helping technique I should exceed the 300km mark from a single application, but by how much. What influence, if any do damp, autumnal conditions have upon this and indeed, the lube’s other properties.

Plan is to run it through September and early October, then, chances are I’ll switch to the All-Weather Lube.

Staying with chains, I am always interested in new brushes and similar tech that makes cleaning that bit easier. In my experience, one of the biggest problems is keeping the bristles clean and effective long term.

Too much solvent tends to soften them. Wet lubes and contaminant can also be difficult to shift. This seems the case, regardless of price. I’ve found the most effective technique is to soak them in degreaser, work this into a lather and flush them through-twice. First with very warm, then cool water.

Finally dry (and remove any residual grot with clean rag) The long bristle plots, designed for cassettes and rings are the most vulnerable to this kind of contamination. Will be interesting to see how the Oxford compares with These Finish Line Finish Line Grunge Brush Solo | cycling-not-racing and Muc-Off Muc-Off Bicycle Chain Brush | cycling-not-racing     

 

As the miles rack up, I’m becoming increasingly endeared to the M Part Primo Handlebar Tape.

The texture is grippy but with none of the stickiness associated with some. I’m pleasantly indifferent to the tacky tapes and have grown to love some over time. The Ciclovation Grind Touch CICLOVATION GRIND TOUCH BAR TAPE | cycling-not-racing being one example. ENVE  Enve Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing is also grippy, though stops short of feeling tacky. Its also very hard wearing and easy to clean.

One thing led to another, and I found myself upgrading Denise's quill stem adaptor from the auction site special to this Profile Design, which is perhaps unsurprisingly, made to an infinitely higher standard, with greater scope for adjustment and clearly marked minimum insert line. I also treated the expander wedge and internal length with some of the Zefal Pro II Grease, which will hopefully keep corrosion and seizure at bay.  These minor tweaks have resolved the minor reach issues.  

While giving the bike a while I'm here once-over, I also noted the front wheel dancing a curious samba. I was somewhat astonished- must’ve caught a rut along a section of newly discovered byway. I switched to the Halo Evaura/SL9 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD pairing with the Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing, while I left the Ryde Sputnik/Ultegra dynohub and Mavic Open Pro/Halo Fix-G HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting with Mick Madgett. An opportunity to explore rougher stuff aboard Ursula and I’d been toying with switching the front Mud Hugger Evo Mudhugger Evo Front Mudguard | cycling-not-racing for something lighter and more minimalist to see just how much difference a smaller guard makes.

Mudguards (fenders) have been slowly creeping into the gravel market. I remain seriously impressed by the Mudhugger Gravel Hugger MUD HUGGER GRAVEL HUGGER MUDGURADS | cycling-not-racingbut other, arguably more traditional looking models have been creeping into the market. Some look to be models aimed at folks wanting their gravel bikes to serve as winter road bikes.

Provided your frame has eyelets and you were happy to run just a rear guard, cutting down a voluptuous mountain bike model, just before the bridge is a cheap but effective and done properly, presentable “for pennies” solution. One I’ve toyed with a few times. Old SKS are in some respects idea candidates- broad, really solid chrome plastics and stays, although unless you could pick some up very cheaply, I'd be inclined to repurpose a scrap pair for this kind of duty. 

As September progresses, I’ve been exploring more of the unmade roads and bridle paths, exploiting Ursula's true off-road pedigree into the bargain. Since her restoration last August, with the notable exception of winter spikes during the season's worst, I've kept her as a drop bar mountain bike shod with sturdy cross-country rubber. Despite some limitations, I'm quite fond of the Continental Cross Kings Continental Cross King Protection Black | cycling-not-racing, but more so the CST Patrol, which represent excellent bang for very modest buck.

In common with the Cross Kings, there are some limitations, especially in bogy mud but for hardpack and less challenging stuff, they're surprisingly swift and grippy.  2.25 sections are still practical propositions for older, cross country mountain bike framesets, while offering a decent amount of compliance and even at 50-55psi, ride quality isn't unduly harsh. There's still a decent amount of choice when it comes to 26-inch but few new models are coming through in this size. 

 

Sliding into September

 

After some long, steady miles and pre soggy season prep, I began contemplating stem lengths and wheel switches. Switching Denise to the WTB drops was a good decision. However, I’ve concluded I needed a shorter extension, since my proportionally short torso means I’m feeling a little stretched.

Cue a quick wander round the web and this 25mm long CNC machined unit from the Far East (of all places!) True, it lacks the exotica or refinement of some, but I was keen to ensure I’d got the correct length and could upgrade later down the line, should need arise. May also upgrade the quill adaptor-had to deal with some reticence when slackening, which ultimately led to discovering the expander wedge shedding its threads. I’ve replaced with one from the spares box and acquired this higher-end replacement and will substitute in due course.  While price typically reflects quality, it’s important to ensure a couple of things.

Firstly, don’t default to the Aheadset method, leave a millimetre or two of the top proud. Secondly, once you’ve everything aligned, ensure you’ve got some grease on the wedge and bolt before torquing it down to around 16nm. The wedge should be well and truly lodged in place- no wibble when rocking the bars as you might when turning sharply, say on as fast descent.  

 There are folks who really dislike quill converters full stop and there are a few options. Have a skilled frame builder add a threadless steerer to the existing fork crown- as Lee Cooper did here Oldie But Goodie: Fork Repair & Revision | cycling-not-racing. Alternatively, Inn Cycle offer a threadless conversion headset. Never seen one in the flesh, so can’t comment but they do look well engineered. Custom quill stems are another option.    

Mick Madgett built the Halo TK hub into the Ryde Taurus rim, which led me to switching Muffin’s Mavic Fix-G. HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting and giving it a good clean.  The sprocket had become quite scuzzy given a few weeks in very hot conditions, turning the Weldtite TF2 All Weather Lube runnier and stickier, so it attracted more dirt. 

It will be interesting to see how the newest PTFE- free version fares in this and other respects. Both variants penetrate the chain’s inner sanctum very effectively and I’ve found the original very effective on fixed gear and single speed chains. Switching Muffin’s rear wheel has me wondering if the chainline was very slightly off with the Fix-G hub and I might need to revise the spacer widths to correct this.

Weldtite has also sent me the latest incarnation of a drip wax they’ve been working on for two years. Claimed to return 300km (186miles) in all conditions, not just balmy summer days, I’ve fed some to Denise’s KMC and Muffin’s Izumi and will see how it fares in the coming, increasingly autumnal weeks.

Generally speaking, I default to middle and heavier weight oils, rather than waxes, or more exotic blends when it comes to fixed and single speed chains. However, fair weather conditions and curiosity are why I’ve gone the wax route. Weldtite suggest you can double up for higher miles per application, so I’ve taken this route, without being overly generous.  

Curing times are influenced by temperatures and other factors, including humidity.  

Deep cleaning recipient drivetrains is essential when it comes to waxes and indeed, lubes of different genres. Applied in temperatures around 20 degrees and given a 45 second shake to mix everything thoroughly, it emerges from the spout very predictably, as middleweight creamy emulsion. Not one I’d risk applying indoors, mind. Curing times are in hours- bargain on four in these temperatures, leave it overnight if you can.

 When cured, it assumes a clear glazed state.  Formative impressions suggest low friction and crisp shifts. The bigger question will be how it sheds contaminant-does it attract less grime, is it one of those that flakes away when contaminant gets trapped in the outer layer, flaking off at a certain point to leave a thinner lubricant layer behind… I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Silca Nastro Piloti Bar Tape Silca Nastro Piloti Bar Tape | cycling-not-racing, which has (and continues to impress with its rugged, grippy natue-impressive in the wet and offering excellent connections with the bars.

Staying with wet stuff, I’d decided it was time to enjoy some forest and bridlepath fun aboard Ursula- I also wanted to see how the Continental Cross Kings and FLR MXT Vibram Trail Shoes coped with bogy mud. Spoiler alert, feet had more traction than tyres. Having ridden a few miles along some mixed, unmade roads and green lanes and generally enjoying ourselves, I couldn’t resist some very goopy bridlepath.

Whoosh…Big grin was quickly substituted by surprise as we hurled in slow motion towards a hedge. Mercifully, the resilient and relatively soft foliage caught our imminent slide, and I slowly came to soft earth, protecting Ursula into the bargain.  Knobblies had definitely become slicks, and as I suspected, the FLR’s Vibram soles will attract soft gloop. However, as I’d hoped, they do shed it surprisingly well- no issues with clipping in and out.  Having returned, I wasted no time in giving Ursla a justly deserved sudsy bucket wash, drivetrain purge, polish and switch to this Weldtite Wax.