Conversion Therapy AKA The Bargain that Nearly Wasn't...

 

No, not that sort, although given the political climate, it’s not something I should be flippant about. Having spotted a suitable Shimano 6v 3w unit for the proverbial on a well-known auction site and secured a deal, you can imagine the profound sense of deflation upon discovering it was a thru axle, not quick release version.  Then came the lightbulb moment...Converter kits must be available... A few keystrokes into Google later and several 15-10mm and 12-10mm converters popped up.

Chinese patterns in keeping with patterns per se, ran the risk of them being an imperfect fit. I found a mid-point unit that had received some very positive reviews, so went for it rather than risking something joining the spares bin and ultimately, money wasted. Meantime, I left the hub and Halo White Line hoop with Mick Madgett so he could work his magic.  Another small but significant job off my list before the nights began drawing in.  

Mick finished the build in a few days. I fitted rim tape, added a little Oxford Mint Assembly Grease Oxford Mint Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing to the converter and slid it into the hub shell-reassuringly snug but should release without too much difficulty. There are, predictably, various schools of thought when it comes to lubricating these. Some advocate copper paste, which can be very effective, and some folks apply this to freehub bodies. However, it can also become a gritty mess after a while, especially during a wet, slimy winter.

Others suggest a silicone-based product and I had considered using this Muc-Off MUC OFF SILICON SHINE POLISH | cycling-not-racing but was a little concerned I might forget to replenish and given a long, wet spell, things might get right royally stuck. Galvanic corrosion can also strike quick release skewers, if they’re not lightly regreased. I’d say quarterly on bikes in hard service (mountain, gravel, commuters, or training bikes) yearly on a sunny day’s plaything.         

Nexus and Alfine are the current dyno hub models within the Shimano range- XT and Ultegra are still available, but not current. Again, it is important to go for the 6V 3W models if you're looking for a good spread of useable light. There are some XT units that are only 1.5w, providing very limited output, although these are frequently offered at a considerable discount.

I like discount but not lighting of the glimmer variety.  I'd looked at Novatec but wasn't overly impressed with their resistance and didn’t want to go too cheap either-it’s not a bargain if it doesn’t deliver what you require of it. DT Swiss also produce a competitively priced hub dynamo in partnership with Shutter Precision.

Elsewhere, I’ve been racking up the miles with these Sidi Aertis MTB Shoes. Our 44 tip the scales at 674g, slightly heavier than my Shimano RX6 go-tos and coming from the Boa setup, Sidi’s Firmor and Tecno 3 closure systems were a little counter intuitive for the first couple of outings, but that’s a minor point and no issues since. The soles are supportive and offer excellent power transfer but are similarly compliant when walking or indeed shouldering the bike through more technical sections.  Bob Elliot & Co sent me these FLR MXT Vibram.

As the name suggests, these are an mtb design employing an aggressive Vibram outer sole, which is designed for riding and walking in more challenging contexts. Interestingly, the upper is made from a water-resistant faux leather, with a reinforced genuine leather toe. Then of course, there’s FLR’s take on the Boa dial.  They certainly feel very rugged, although that is also reflected in their weight-935g for the 44.

Though I still maintain the Peaty’s Lik Lube All Weather is best suited to spring, summer and early autumn, it’s proving my go-to lube for those times when the weather’s predominantly dry but there’s the risk off the odd wet ride. Conditions where most “barely there” dry, or wax formulas are all too readily washed away but heavier formulas can attract grime.

There’s enough for one, maybe two chains in the bottle, but I’m reflecting upon its replacement. There are some obvious choices. Peaty’s Link Lube Dry PEATYS LINK LUBE DRY CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing Blub Ceramic Blub Ceramic Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing  is another, although the latter is best suited to bikes in daily service, since if it will need re-applying, should the bike be unused for 48 hours.

Weldtite TF2 All Weather TF2 PERFORMANCE ALL WEATHER LUBRICANT | cycling-not-racing is a slightly cruder middleweight and attracts more dirt but a little goers surprisingly far and it's inexpensive. The cleaner, the better during this primarily dry period- especially when I’m venturing beyond asphalt.  Silca Super-Secret Chain Coating Silca Super Secret Chain Coating | cycling-not-racing is another option- it's clean and quick curing ….

 

Dynohub dilemmas

 

I’m a big fan of dynamos and hub dynamos specifically and there’s something incredibly satisfying about navigating by your own, high-quality lighting. I’ve run hub dynamos since 2001, when I went for a Shimano Nexus unit which, by contemporary standards produced huge amounts of resistance. Fine for commuting and using a “seen by” lamp-I’d run it with Ursula for a while but an Ultegra unit and 800lumen Exposure Revo were literally light years ahead.

I’m still very fond of the Shutter Precision hubs HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD, which are light, well-executed and very smooth. My one gripe is the need for them to be sent back to the factory for bearing replacement. I’ve consistently returned 20,000miles from the sealed cartridge bearings- typically three years, so the hub and cost of wheel building is perfectly economic-repaid their investment. However, my preference is for something at least partially user-serviceable, especially consumables, such as bearings, which by definition are bound to wear out.

Shimano is the obvious option. I’d contemplated a Kaisai unit, which are user serviceable and make a lot of sense for arse end of nowhere touring (not that I’d want an expired hub dynamo, or any other component anywhere). Neds to be disc compatible-ideally centre lock. I’ve had the Halo/SL9 wheel trued and will run that as the spare for now. Temperatures have been consistently high here in the UK. I’m not remotely surprised since 2025 was projected to be the hottest on record and further evidence of climate change.

I’m favouring jerseys and other clothing with high factor SPF yarns, sometimes long sleeves, such as this Cycology Men’s Summit Long Sleeve Jersey Cycology Men’s Summit Lightweight Summer | cycling-not-racing or indeed, this Funkier Ixara Gents Elite Jersey Funkier Ixara Gents Elite Jersey | cycling-not-racing . A fully laden, frozen back bottle TESTED: BACK BOTTLE CYCLING WATER BOTTLE is another really useful cooling aid for hotter rides. Glasses with UVA & B protection and photochromic lenses are another default.  Well-ventilated footwear and decent socks shouldn’t be overlooked either. I’ll never forget the summer of 1992 and some badly burned soles, courtesy of black patent road shoes and long miles along molten roads.

Coupled with cheap polyester socks and a basic nylon sole proved a recipe for painfully blistered feet. While they had a decent amount of float, I don't miss hobbling/waddling around sans bike, not to mention gouging chunks out of expensive lino. Still, they were what might be termed an aspirational purchase, plucked from the sale bin at a frequent local haunt- all 18-year-old me could afford at the time and they served surprisingly well.  There was and to some extent is something very romantic about that era and indeed, getting a bargain but those years are also tinged with painful regrets in other areas of life, regrets that are etched deep, even now.  We cannot change the past, only our relationship to it, or indeed, them. 

Three decades plus, I’ve gone over to the stiffer soled FLR F70 Prop MTB M250 FLR F70 Pro MTB M250 Shoe | cycling-not-racing  which I my experience, give a little more efficiency aboard Muffin, which is palpable on the climbs-remember, honking might be vulgar on a tourer, or gravel build but perfectly acceptable on the fixed. Saddleback, the UK’s Sidi distributor thoughtfully sent me these Sidi Aertis MTB shoes, which promise a blend of efficiency, with sufficient give in the sole for navigating the trail sans bike or just plodding about mid-ride.

Theoretically extending their horizons to bike packing, touring, cyclo cross and indeed, winter training.  The latter duties are amplified further by the toe studs. The soles are made from Nylon and employ specialist polyurethane inserts for comfort. Some would argue in favour of carbon at this price point. However, carbon tends to limit walking or running prowess and can be a little too stiff on longer rides, so arguably an engineered choice, rather than a cost cutting exercise. 

 I’d forgotten how good the Maxxis Roamer TESTED : MAXXIS ROAMER TYRES are, especially along poorly surfaced lanes, while still being fairly swift. Be interesting to see how they compare longer term, with the Continental Pure Contact, which remains (and will stay) at the rear, since they are proving very dependable, compliant and again, relatively swift for big volume rubber.   Elsewhere, a bearing strip and re-grease of the Shimano XT pedals led me to resurrecting these original SPD from 1990. Still buttery smooth and so glad I’ve held on to them.  I also switched Denise’s Ergon  All Road Core Comp Ergon SR All Road Core Comp Saddle Men | cycling-not-racing back to the Pro Turnix Gel, since I’d been experiencing some chafing  along my inner right thigh.   

 

Rambling & Roaming

 

Having tamed cranks, rim tapes and similar sources of potential mischief, it was time for longer, laden escapes from the maddening crowd.   

The Madison Summit rack has been doing its thing very competently, without fuss, or fanfare. Its TIG welded in Taiwan and to the standards I’ve come to expect from products coming out of the Far East. The 10mm rod offers a very stable platform for panniers, especially those such as this Oxford Aqua V20 with Rixen Kaul type attachments Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier | cycling-not-racing, which is particularly welcome along rougher roads and trails. I’m still really impressed, astounded in some respects, by the Lomo Zephyr Lomo Zephyr Waterproof Panniers | cycling-not-racing

The narrower (100mm) top section is a little slender for bigger rack bags and though this Carradice will sit reliably, allowing me to concentrate on a decent tempo, it can make fitting and removing panniers from the lower tier trickier, technically defeating the object of a two-tier design. For the record, the Carradice is 116mm wide, so a consideration if you’re planning on a bigger rack bag, especially if you’re pairing with a pannier-single or otherwise.      

 I’ve been contemplating tyres for a while and was talking in terms of something old school and beefier. I may still do this, during the winter months but I’m sticking with something swifter. I’m still impressed by the Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing. My experience suggests that 60tpi casings are more reliable, especially off road. I’ve had one flat with the Ravager, three with Pirelli’s perky Cinturato. Admittedly one was a rim tape issue, so not down to the tyre and they still have bags of charm but I’m craving dependability at the moment, in case that wasn’t obvious.

I got curious about Maxxis Rambler, which Maxxis say are their most popular gravel offering, reckoned to perform uniformly well along asphalt, dirt roads and gravel. The Rambler has been around for a decade now, which suggests a fundamentally very competent design. Tightly packed centre knobblies promise efficiency, while more widely spaced cornering/side knobblies promise to keep bite deep when cornering on looser surfaces.

As would be expected, it’s a dual compound, tubeless ready model. There are two variants, our 60tpi and 120tpi, they’re also available in a wealth of sizes, from 38 to 50mm. I’ve gone for the 700x40, since that’s optimal, dare I say maximum for Denise’s clearances.

The Silk shield puncture repelling technology runs from bead to bead, thus offering the sidewalls some defence against flats and cut damage. They also tip the scales at a similarly respectable 524g apiece. I’ve run ours up front, the Ravager behind, as a control for the first hundred miles. Now, the Ravager are no slouches, even on metalled roads. However, the 60tpi Rambler feel palpably faster. Having reached for the rambler front and rear, I’ve am averaging 16.7mph against 15.9mph along comparable sections and thus far, they’re proving equally engaging off road, along dry hardpack trails, unmade roads and forest trails.

Grip and cornering prowess are proving similarly dependable, although I anticipate needing something with a deeper, more mtb influenced tread when the wetter, wintry months bring boggy bridlepath.  50psi seems the sweet spot for mixed terrain shenanigans but obviously, I’ll experiment further, as time and miles advance.   While giving Muffin a well-earned wash and light fettle, one thing led to another and I was curious as to whether they’d fit comfortably up front, being 42mm (against the Continental Pure Contact, which are 40mm wide and run a hair’s breadth from the MudHugger Gravel Hugger Mudguards. Much to my surprise, the short answer is yes, and this also presented an opportunity to tweak the Spyre calliper’s alignment fractionally.

The Leatt 6.0 are still performing impeccably and having regularly alternating between Muffin (and the Shimano M540) and Denise suggests the Leatt are a little stiffer, translating in slightly improved power transfer, Finish quality is also proving very high, resisting regular dis/engagements with nominal signs of wear.  Interestingly, the Leatt cleats seem fully compatible with Shimano SPD pedals, but Shimano cleats weren’t quite so compatible and its required more effort to engage and release.

Staying with pedals, I’ve always leaned towards dirt biased SPD shoes since the power transfer is generally very good, and you can walk or run efficiently and comfortably. Race shoes, mtb or otherwise can be fine- I’m quite happy whizzing along on the fixed for several hours with these stiff soled FLR F70 Pro MTB M250 Shoe FLR F70 Pro MTB M250 Shoe | cycling-not-racing  but found them a touch too rigid, say shouldering bikes cyclo cross fashion across more technical sections, or indeed mooching around, but then our old friend “horses for courses” springs to mind. 

Make Racks Great Again

 

Now, that might sound a strange statement and before I go any further, I’m very fond of bike packing luggage-big seat packs and similar. Models such as Carradice SQR Tour, SQR Carradry CARRADICE CARRADRY SQR BAG | cycling-not-racing and Zefal R11 ZEFAL ADVENTURE R11 WATERPROOF SADDLEBAG | cycling-not-racing being prime examples

However, they’re great for some things but not a panacea. The SQR models are both capacious and very rigid, release and fit very reliably and feel bombproof. However, they are also quite heavy and their centre of gravity quite high.

The latter’s not great if you’re coming close to the 10kilo limit and obviously, metal posts only. Bike Packing luggage, such as frame bags can consume the lion’s share of a small frame’s main triangle and, unless you’ve dressed the tubes in helicopter tape, straps can quickly damage frame finishes.

Ursula and Muffin both sport four-point Topeak racks capable of hauling 25 kilos of kit. Two tier designs, such as this Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Disc and Oxford HD Alloy Luggage Rack Oxford HD Alloy Luggage Rack | cycling-not-racing have a definite advantage if you are looking at pairing rack top bags and panniers-much easier to fit, remove and generally access. Positioning the panniers lower down also reduces the centre of gravity, thus less impact upon handling when heavily laden.

Now I know I said I wasn’t going to be whipping a Rack to Denise, but then she has the bosses and even though the Zefal R11 serves most of my riding needs, the option of carrying extra, especially now I’ve gone for a 2X 36/26 setup broadens horizons. Maybe it’s indicative of a deeper wanderlust, the desire to pack up and figuratively, piss off.  

Racks afford excellent lateral stiffness, are much cheaper to refinish than a frameset when the time comes.

I tend to bind old butyl around those areas where mounting hardware rests, thus preventing unsightly wear through the finish, which can also impair the rack’s structural integrity. Electrical, or duct tape are good alternatives. Aluminium alloy racks are pretty reliable-have been for many years, although they are more vulnerable to fatigue than cro-moly steels and though not impossible, harder to repair. Practices such as not laying bikes down on their luggage certainly help. Oh, and not exceeding the maximum payload.  

Madison were gracious enough to send me their M Part Summit Rear Pannier Rack. The design looks a close homage to Tortec’s Epic.  10mm 6061 aluminium alloy rod, treated to a satin black powder coated finish, a 5 year no quibble warrantee and a 25kilo maximum payload. Pretty typical of similar designs, including the Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX Disc and its non-disc counterpart. Topeak Uni SuperTourist 2.0 NonDisc Rack | cycling-not-racing. 715g complete is also pretty favourable.

The Topeak have a top plate, doubling as a splashguard, which is arguably more convenient on a dirt biased build, but less problematic if you’re running a top mount bag and easily made from a strip of scrap aluminium or composite-I’ve gone this route very effectively with a Tubus rack 25 years ago. There are a few mounting options, yet the fitting kit is much simpler than many, which may lack the outright adaptability of some designs, but meant fitting to Denise was a fifteen-minute job, including checks with the spirit level.  

Despite a relatively narrow platform, it’s proving a very reliable, dare I say perfect host for my long serving Carradice Super C rack bag.  It’s served on and off for 12 years and, testament to the brand’s build quality, it was quickly and easily rejuvenated with a few blasts of Stans No Tubes Bike Wash and some gentle agitation from this Green Oil Bicycle Brush GREEN OIL BIKE BRUSH REVIEW, which is another long-serving favourite of mine.

Bike Packing luggage does have some definite advantages though. Improved aerodynamics being an obvious example and this nimbler nature also comes into its own when tackling narrow singletrack and where appropriate sneaking through traffic in town. 

Some folks say, with justification, that it makes them consider exactly what they need, rather than defaulting to kitchen sink territory. There are perspectives, shades of grey, rather than absolutes. It’s about finding the formula that best works for you, your machines and riding contexts. A few outings have convinced me it was the right move and the rack itself offers excellent lateral stiffness.

Though hardly a puncture plague but another flat, this time the front Cinturato is giving me cause to consider going for something bullet proof, specifically Specialized Crossroads Armadillo, or indeed, Continental Contact Plus but the latter are a good bit heavier. I’ve upgraded the rim tape, ordered a fresh supply of Rema Tip Top patches, substituted the Cinturato Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M Tyre | cycling-not-racing for a 60Tpi Maxxis Ravager Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing and for the time being, will reflect on things further.         

I've said it before, but the Specialized Crossroads Armadillo are a seriously capable mixed terrain tyre that aren't too ponderous over metalled road but have sufficient traction for hardpack and lighter cross country/trails duty. 38mm is arguably a little narrower than I traditionally take things a little wider on this front, although no issues with 32-35mm on my cyclo cross bikes.

They are a bit portlier than your typical gravel tyre thanks to the 60tpi wire bead only option.  Then of course, I've rekindled my obsession with Specialized's Rock Combo and wondered if the Hardpack of that era had ever been available in 700x40c. Not that I'd be paying retro prices, mind...

 

 

Filth Fighters & Other F Words

 

 

Cleaning and maintaining bikes is an integral part of riding. Some folks see it as a chore, but doing so greatly reduces the likelihood of problems developing mid-ride, possibly miles from home. It’s also the time to check things like chain and brake pad wear, tyres for shards of glass, cuts etc.

Did I mention cables, housings, loose mounting bolts, sloppy bearings…Winter aside (where I will typically rinse bikes with fresh cold water to dismiss road salt, grit and similarly corrosive, or abrasive nasties, I default to a good quality car wash n’ wax formula, since this will clean surfaces and leave a waxy, protective layer behind.

During the warmer months, there are waterless bike shampoos and washes that will remove light to moderate grime. Some, including this Moto Verde Waterless Wax Motoverde Waterless Wash & Wax | cycling-not-racing will leave a high quality wax barrier behind. However, while they’re suitable for gloss surfaces-including plated, polished, carbon and anodising, you’ll need to look elsewhere for matts.  

There’s still a place for bike washes, although, outside of a testing context, I err toward the concentrates since these can serve as degreasers when purging dirty drivetrains and diluted “to taste” depending on whether I want something faster acting on really heavily soiled gravel, cross, or mountain bikes. People seem to like visually foamy formulas, seemingly of the belief they are doing more, whereas those that cling to the surfaces are actually breaking down the grime.

Against this backdrop, I’ve received this Stans Bio Based Bike wash 1litre. It’s a stock blend and like many others, makes a point of saying its biodegradable.

Biodegradable is one of those terms that’s a little vague and can just mean “it will eventually break down”. By the same token, it’s also worth saying that because something is made from natural ingredients, doesn’t mean to say its necessarily kind to user and finishes alike. Citrus is very acidic and while an incredibly effective lube stripper, requires careful deployment.   

The Stans contains Lauryl Glucoside Citrate, an alcohol derived from coconut, or palm. It’s a surfactant, meaning it allows water to mix with oil and grime, breaking the latter down and ultimately, making the surface easier to clean. On the plus side, it’s very gentle on skin (hence its use in baby shampoos, body washes), breaks down very quickly in water and produces a very rich, stable foam that clings convincingly to the host surface, thus gobbling the grime more effectively. 

However, these can also have a high PH level, some people with particularly sensitive skins can develop contact dermatitis. Like most products, avoid getting any in your eyes. If you do, rinse your eyes in clean water for a while and seek medical attention.  In common with hair shampoos and indeed, some other bike washes, its designed to be delivered over a wet bike, worked into a lather and rinsed with fresh water.

I remain impressed by the NZero Bike Degreaser NZero Bike Degreaser | cycling-not-racing  . It’s not the fastest acting, or the most visually exciting, but very effective and so long as you’re not too gung-ho a little goes surprisingly far. It can be diluted and used as a bike wash, or even used neat on heavily soiled bikes-just have buckets, brushes, sponges and similar cleaning implements handy and don’t leave longer than 60 seconds before doing the scrubbing and rinsing thing. There are other homely remedies for stripping drivetrains, from the highly flammable and therefore potentially dangerous, to the passable in a pinch.

Some folks advocate dishwashers but that to me has little benefit aside from damaging seals and other precious components. I would generally avoid washing up liquids (dish detergents) since these contain salts, which are corrosive and can dull lacquers and other finishes. That said, it’s also very effective at stripping lubes and grime from cassettes, chains and indeed, rings.  

Talking of which, in my excitement at finding a bargain, I discovered I’d bought a boost version of the Deore crankset, designed for a 73mm bottom bracket shell, whereas Denise is a 68mm. This wasn’t obvious, in the way it was with Ursula and the Zee but crept in over time, when I noted some exposed axle on the non-drive side, two hundred mixed terrain miles hence. Sorted now but note to self… All that glitters is not necessarily the correct length.  I’ll leave it here with my review of the Park TW5 2.0 Ratcheting Click Type Torque wrench Park Tool TW5 2.0 Torque Wrench | cycling-not-racing

 

 

Two Deore & Fresh Cable

 

Three rides in and I concluded a slight kink in the rear derailleur housing was causing mischief-it wasn't obvious, until I was cruising on the hoods and happened to take this shot.  I obviously replaced the outer and inner cables upon returning home.  Little surprise that shifting became that bit snappier and free of phantom shifts and similarly unwelcome distractions.

Even if bars look comparable, width and shape can influence things, so if changing contact points, or making wider changes, it's worth changing the cables, ideally during, rather than afterward.  Talking of bars, here’s Steve’s review of the Lomo 3 Litre Handlebar Bike Packing Dry Bag Lomo 3L Handlebar Bikepacking Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing

All part of bedding in, dare I say bonding (deeper) with the build. Not one, but two Deore mechs arrived, which is welcome. The SR Suntour fitted to Ursula is box fresh and the STX adorning Denise’s downtube still has plenty of strength in its spring. Nonetheless, it’s thirty years old and these things tend to expire at the least convenient moment. Both Deore hail from the same era but have little signs of use and plenty of power within their springs. 

I'm sticking with the Shimano CX50 stopper up front since there's plenty of bite and pads are readily available. Temptation was to pop another Kore on, but this is change for change's sake.

Mick Madgett has worked his wheel building sorcery and built the older, non-disc Ultegra dynohub into the Ryde Sputnik rim. Not an urgent job but glad its sorted. I've switched the existing disc braked Nexus Shimano Nexus DH-UR700-3D Dynamo Hub | cycling-not-racing over to Muffin and run the low drag Shutter Precision SL9 HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD as a second/spare, as need arises. Otherwise, I'm really pleased with the bikes in their present guises.

Denise's 36/26 is actually quite close to the "cut down" trend that struck in the early 1990s, where riders would often forgo the big ring (typically a 48 tooth) in favour of the 38 and 28 since this saved a few grams and was arguably more practical off road. Though there's a lot to be said for triples, especially on a tourer, I've found keeping them on song four seasons round to be something of a chore.

I also ran a Shimano 600 with a Stronglight 48/38/28 setup, and this could also prove temperamental. I should point out this was inherited with the bike, not of my doing and was ultimately replaced with a Suntour XCD six months after the frameset's powder coat makeover in March 1990.  I was a big Suntour fan and remain very fond of the late 80s and early 90s groupsets.      

Elsewhere, I fitted the Blackburn Atom SL computer to Muffin and though accessing the battery compartment is fiddly, thanks to the tiny screws, the rest of the unit, including sensor feel solid in the Blackburn tradition. The display is very clear and the switches similarly solid. Not quite as bombproof flavour of old school, late 80's Cat Eye, but not far behind, so we'll see. 

 

Staying with Cat Eye a minute, I was interested to note they still offer wired versions, including one called the Enduro, which is apparently designed for off road duties. I'd go for a wired model since by definition, they are the most accurate, reliable option, but there's the risk of me embarking on a headset strip/similar, forgetting about the wiring and ultimately knackering it. I've got form for this, having done it before, to a Strada back in 1994.  I spend considerable time connected to the internet in one form or other, to the point where I simply want to decompress and disconnect on my rides- escape, for want of a more involved explanation.  

 

The Lomo Mountain Bike Gloves are still seeing plenty of action and continue to impress in their pleasant, understated way. Also on the test bench is the Lazer Strada Kineticore helmet, a design that blurs genres.

It employs their ScrollSys system for a precise, 360 degree fit, TPU eyewear docking system for parking sunglasses, a rear light mount and Keneticore Propriety Integrated Rotational Impact Protection, offering protection in a similar manner as MIPS. Where the two systems differ is Keneticore Propriety Integrated Rotational Impact Protection is built into the helmet from the beginning, whereas MIPS is added afterward. This ensures it covers the entirety of the helmet and theoretically, improves ventilation, while also using less material.

Hopefully none of us will ever need to call on this, or rely on our lids, but twisting forces can prove particularly harmful in a crash.  

Build quality and attention to detail impresses me at this price point. Simple things like the polycarbonate shell extending around the rim and an intuitive "conveyor belt" type adjuster tightening or relaxing the cradle tension being prime examples.

On the subject of sizing, I went for a small, finding the medium can be a little larger than others. I'm at the upper end of the 51-56cm circumference but still achieved a secure, comfortable fit with scope for caps, buffs and similar headwear. Our sample also coordinates nicely with these Shimano RX600 Shimano SH RX600 Gravel Cycling Shoes | cycling-not-racing and cap