Fresh Freehubs & Imaginations Fired

 

As I’ve said before, a good shop is worth their weight in gold. Collecting Ursula’s XT wheels, Sean advised he’d replaced the freehubs, hub bearings-no sense doing otherwise, since you need to strip the hub down. Besides fresh bearings and grease are pennies. Sean also gave both wheels a very quick tweak, which was similarly welcome, although neither were wandering. Prevention is always cheaper and more convenient than cure.

It was also nice to have found and addressed the phantom tinkling, which I'd convinced myself, could only be the rear TRP Spyre. Both wheels were around 4 years old and had one set of bearings apiece. The freehubs would’ve done around 12,500 all-weather mixed terrain miles apiece, so didn’t owe me anything. I’d fitted a six-bolt Shimano Deore rotor to the Ryde/XT hoop shod with the Nutrak and having done so, noted that was only suitable for resin pads. Not a problem, since that's what the rear Spyre was presently running but a reminder not to go the sintered route next time.

I've had good experiences with EBC pads and Disco Disc Brake Pads, so will opt for these come replacement time. Not that cable operated pads tend not to wear particularly quickly, at least compared with hydraulics, but winter’s salty cocktail can still chomp through them with frightening efficiency. Keeping a couple of chains, cables and brake pads in stock is a good idea.  Meantime, having resolved the issues, I’ve dialled the pads a little closer for more bite-especially since I’ve been doing a lot more trailer tugging of late.

I’d also taken this opportunity to strip and lightly regrease Ursula’s Topeak Road Master Blaster Frame Fit pump Topeak Road Master Blaster Frame Pump | cycling-not-racing using the Juice Lubes Slick Juice Juice Lubes Slick Juice Low Friction Gre | cycling-not-racing. Now, frame fit pumps have fallen out of fashion and on some levels, I can see why, especially given the increased dominance of electric compressor types, including Muc-Off’s Air Mach Muc-Off Airmach Electric Inflator Pro | cycling-not-racing and Cyc Plus CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E.Pump | cycling-not-racing. Sure, these are my defaults for speedy road/trailside rescue, especially when the temperature’s tanking. However, for all their considerable charms, I like a decent backup.

While I can understand the minimalists aversion, in an emergency, I don’t want to be struggling. The Road Master Blaster is reckoned good for 160psi. I’ve no problems raising flaccid 700x25c to 110psi. The large fits super securely along Ursula’s top tube and though there’s some slight trade off when shouldering bikes (I just slip it in a pannier) for me, it’s a small price to pay. Having done sufficient miles with Specialized Crossroads EX as control, now was the time to explore the Nutrak Vee Swift Frenzy Gravel Mud Tubeless Ready Tyres prowess in soft, muddy soil.    

 

Traditionally I've run 1.9 sections through winter since they offer a little more speed, improved clearance around the frame's rear triangle and on older, rigid mountain bikes, the fork's unicrown. Ingrained stones and grit and gloopy trails would act as a very effective abrasive, blasting paintwork bare, rapidly resulting I superficial but unsightly corrosion. A moot point with broader, straight leg designs, including these Carbon Cycles  Carbon Cycles Exotic Fork | cycling-not-racing   

I also recognise this choice is influenced by the all-terrain bikes that swept in around 1986 and never released their grip on my imagination. Bikes that could go anywhere-escape the maddening crowd yet still hustle along metaled roads with conviction…Muddy Fox's Trailblazer, Bridgestone's MB-1 and of course, Specialized’s Rock Combo being three that occupy said hall of fame.  Rack and mudguard (fender) mounts, stable enough for long haul load lugging (should you desire).

Machines that some now suggest were the precursors to contemporary gravel bikes. Again, I can see why people make these comparisons. I prefer panniers and post mounted SQR type luggage to contemporary frame mounted bike packing types. Primarily since I can get a rack refinished cheaply and easily, when time comes-although in both instances, dressing the areas of the rack or frame in old inner tube will greatly reduce this likelihood.  “You don’t criticise my paint, I won’t criticise your arc” as a shipyard painter said to the welder.  

For gravel and winter riding generally, I’ve concluded a low maintenance, grippy bar wrap trumps the traditional, and still worthy corks.  Muffin’s Genetic Hi-Grip is still delivering the goods-rugged and easy to clean, although I’ve a suspicion the backing will separate from the top layer once it weathers. Demise’s Ergon Orthocell Ergon Orthocell Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing  is another hard-wearing example and was easily ported over to the Genetic Digest.  All these discussed don’t absorb moisture, hardwearing and low maintenance.  

Softer ground and winter’s general nastiness also lends itself to simplicity. Rigid forks give a more direct feel, require virtually no maintenance and save a few grams into the bargain.

Now, my love of Specialized’s Crossroads EX tyre is long established but now appears to be discontinued. Given the all-terrain and blended genres I’ve been referring to, I’m very intrigued by their Hardrock'R Wirebead All Terrain Tire. Filed under their “City Bike” category and available in 26x2.0, 27.5, 650Bx2.0 and 29x2.0.

It looks as if it could well be a contender. I’ve not encountered one in the flesh, let alone tried them, but they have sparked my imagination. The Hemisphere are another re-entry. I ran a set of 26x 1.95 for commuting across South London 25 yeas back and found that version dependable, albeit ponderous.

Tooled Up & Misdirected Blame

 

With hedge-clipping season in full swing, my attention turned to tyres, tubes and crucially tyre levers. The latter are largely forgotten until we're crouched by the roadside on a cold and rainy night, trying to release a particularly tight bead. With this in mind, Weldtite has sent me their 2.0 tyre levers and a rather nice looking twenty-function multi-tool.

The latter's design is reminiscent of the Crank Brothers M19 with its knurled side plates for grip-even with sweaty palms or wearing winter gloves. I’ve an M17 still serving, it’s a little world weary now, the chain tool long expired and a bent (but still operational) 3m Allen key.  One of the more interesting features-a welcome addition in principle is the disc brake rotor tool.  

They also sent me the smaller version of their Rubber Workshop Matt with Magnet. The Rubber ensures it won’t slide around and the magnetic layer ensures you’ll foil rogue felines looking to play ball bearing billiards. I’ve gone for the smaller size since it’s portable, meaning I can do small jobs, like headset and hub overhauls outside, should need, or fancy take me. The relatively thick rubber will protect surfaces, especially if exerting force- say exorcising a stubborn pedal, or hub.

Having tweaked the Spyre into what I believed was sweet submission, I was still experiencing a faint, intermittent tinkling. I decided a quiet byway was the best place to conduct a thorough troubleshoot.  Monitoring the rotor and pads with sporadic acceleration confirmed this wasn't the culprit.

A gentle tug of the cassette revealed some minor, but palpable play, suggesting the freehub was the most likely culprit. Post-ride investigation confirmed this. Murphey's Law also revealed the spare XT laced hoop was also showing signs of isolated play. Yup, another freehub bit the dust.

Not having replacement freehubs and hub bearings to hand, I decided the most efficient use of time and energy was to leave both wheels with Madgetts Cycles. This was an opportunity to get everything checked ahead of winter, while I tackled other pressing matters.

Decent bike shops are worth their weight in gold. Just because we can do the jobs, it’s not always convenient, or the best use of our time.  I’d have my wheels sorted and ready by the time it took two compatible freehubs to arrive in the post. 

All this had me pondering the acquisition of a newer XT hub running a centre lock disc and having that built into a wheel, laced three-cross for some added strength. Not that I'm unduly heavy or have a less than compassionate riding style, but greater stress is placed upon the rear wheel, especially with a disc brake.

I'd contemplated 36 spokes, but chances are I'll stick with a 32, since this would allow me to use an existing rim.  The most likely candidate being that presently hosting the Halo Spin Doctor, which has done a very modest mileage.  During this phase, I spotted this 36-hole Shimano FH-RM70 going for proverbial pennies. Loosely comparable with Alivio, it’s simple and rugged, although will benefit from a really beefy grease to keep winter’s worst out. Designed for rim brakes, its most likely something I’d have built into a spare wheel for Denise.   

Meantime, I’d noted Ursula’s chain was closer to .6, so replaced it, along with one of the cassettes, since a new chain will only kick up on new sprockets and vice-versa. I’ve reverted to wax while the autumn seems fair-weather, although chances are I’ll default to the Weldtite All Weather Weldtite All Weather Lube | cycling-not-racing . Weldite have also sent me their Wet Lube, which I’m advised is a successor to their Extreme Wet WELDTITE TF2 EXTREME WET CHAIN LUBRICANT .

The Extreme wet was a mix of ISO oils and specialist additives, whereas the wet consists of (detail). While stodgy wet lubes will attract dirt ad grit, which left unchecked, can significantly shorten the lifespan of drivetrain components, they still have their place.  Aside from staying put in really harsh conditions, they double as passable grease substitutes on fasteners- stem bolts, mudguard and rack, bottle screws and cleats being prime examples. A drop into electroplated Allen heads will also fend off the dreaded orange taint.

Too heavy for cables, a drop on the ends where they enter the ferrule will help seal the elements out. Another useful product that works well on cables is Finish Line 1 Step Cleaner and Lube TEST & REVIEW: FINISH LINE 1-STEP CLEANER AND LUBE. Marketed primarily as a chain lube, the aerosol version is particularly effective-I’ve witnessed it bring gummed up shifters back from the brink with a couple of blasts. The solvent component does the cleaning and leaves a light lube-much sturdier than a maintenance spray behind.

In a pinch, a few drops of wet lube will also keep quick release skewers mobile-at least until you can get to some decent grease. I’ve been fairly impressed by the Juice Lubes Slick Juice Juice Lubes Slick Juice Low Friction Gre | cycling-not-racing which is kind to rubberised and composite components, so can be applied most components and surfaces.  Obviously not for carbon and other materials requiring a gripper paste.

Right, since we’re creeping ever closer to the wetter months, I’ll leave you with Steve’s review of the Leatt MTB Hydradri 5.0 Jacket Leatt MTB Hydradri 5.0 Jacket | cycling-not-racing

Pumping & Prepping

 

Not in the Mad Max post-apocalyptic sense, although global events and the political climate have certainly left me imagining some very dark scenarios. Growing up in the 1980s, I recall the very real threat of nuclear war and societal collapse and frankly, we seem closer to both scenarios, now…

After ten years, I was compelled by the urge to strip and inspect the Blackburn Piston 4. Would a good clean and regrease of the gasket and piston (plunger, if you prefer) restore its slick, refined efficiency? The hose and chuck were al in good shape and it was still very functional, delivering the desired pressures but the piston action and airflow weren’t optimal.

Undoing two little Philip screws, everything separated smoothly and in one piece. Gasket and plunger were sporting a gungy beard, but essentially sound. Degreasers can be a little harsh, so I gave both parts a light rinse with tepid water and then treated both to a few blasts of Juice Lubes Bike Wash.

Now, I’d generally steer people toward solvent based aerosol cleaners, or industrial alcohol when cleaning the barrel’s inner sanctum. However, I blasted some Motoverde Drivetrain Degreaser inside and left it doing its thing for five minutes, turning my attention to the gasket and piston. A gentle tickling with this Green Oil Bike Brush GREEN OIL BIKE BRUSH REVIEW and some tepid water cut through the grot.

Rinse, dry and reach for grease. Swerve anything lithium, or PTFE-based. When it comes to Silca, only use their dedicated preps. Otherwise, silicone formulas are a good default, but I’ve gone for the Juice Lubes Slick Juice. Liberal around the gasket, sparingly along the piston’s lower section. That done, I returned to the Piston 4’s barrel. I dried this in two stages. Some old, scrap towel doing the lion’s share, judicious deployment of a hairdryer on medium heat removing any residual, mischievous dampness.

On a roll, I took the same route with my SKS Air-X-Plorer Digi Floor Pump SKS Air-X-Plorer Digi Floor Pump | cycling-not-racing. This is stereotypically Teutonic in terms of build quality. Same MO, save for the collar screws being M25 Torx. Piston, spring and gasket were particularly solid. This time, I cleaned these with bike wash but exorcised the barrel using an aerosol solvent cleaner. Everything slid back together beautifully, any faint stiction well and truly banished.

Well and truly in the zone, I popped Muffin in the work stand and decided to remove the Genetic Tibia crank, clean and inspect the ring and give the frame a good waxing while I was about it. Be rude not too… I’ve gone for self-extracting bolts and was initially disconcerted by their reticence. Gentle persistence with the 8mm Allen key secured the drive side’s release.   

A tag team of Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner | cycling-not-racing and Muc-Off Chain Wax Cleaner Muc-Off Chain Wax Cleaner 500ml | cycling-not-racing  consumed the slightly gungy residue clinging to the teeth, making inspection and assessment viable. The ring is still in good shape, so stays for now. I’ll review come November and at that point, will take a view and chain replacement may be all that’s called for.

I turned my attentions to the TRP Spyre SLC, giving the pads and disc a cat-lick, ensuring the piston movement was optimal. An easy, preventative tweak. Muffin back in the workshop, I turned my attention to Denise. I was keen to see whether the Magicshine Ray3000 would sit securely atop the auction site Garmin Mount.

Given the light’s girth, I needed to relocate the Genetic Neuron Accessory Bar GENETIC NEURON ACCESSORY BAR | cycling-not-racing outboard, necessitating a quick dip into the shim bag. While on that particular mission, I found another Magicshine handlebar mount, which is an improvement on that supplied with the Coospo Real Road CS600 GPS Bike Computer Coospo CS600 GPS | cycling-not-racing  . Sure the bars feel a little busier, which might bring the clutter-phobic out in hives. However, there was a bigger, unwelcome surprise in store. During our first outing, the out-front mount ejected the Ray3000. Testament to its build quality, not so much as a scratch.

Closer inspection revealed the plastic Garmin pattern mount had deformed and fractured at one point. I switched the light to the resin Magicshine mount and popped the Coospo CS600 in my jersey pocket for the remaining five miles. Diagnostics done, I arrived home, had a rummage in the spare munts bag and found a replacement. I also took the opportunity to exchange the Gaciron Cetus 1700 Gaciron Cetus 1700 Underneath Bike Light | cycling-not-racing mount for the Magicshine Hori 1300 Magicshine HORI 1300 Front Light | cycling-not-racing for those times when I’m testing the Ray 3000 on another machine and I want more lumens than the Exposure Revo dynamo lamp can muster.

 

 

 

 

 

Lights, Discs & Doo Dahs

 

There comes a time in the creative process where fatigue strikes, and I’m both numb of bum and brain. This is fleeting and easily dismissed on the road, or trail. Well, assuming of course, I’m not breaking in a traditional leather saddle. The saddle is where I do much of my contemplation of wider dilemmas and escape life’s exhausting noise. Chances are, come a ride's end, whether it be 20 or 50 miles, I’ve mentally drafted a plan of action and just need to transcribe.  

The present political climate, the mobilization of people towards a very dark avenue often creeps into my thoughts. Not on the bike specifically, but my rights to ride, to be, to live and let live aren’t something I take for granted. Fascism doesn’t ignite or become tolerated overnight, rather, it knocks politely and speaks softly. The rhetoric is steadily dialled higher, mobilising people from outrage to organised street violence. Extremist views then become mainstream and normalised.

There’s also a lot of money to be made. Nothing new, we’ve been here before. The same “patriots” engaging in the street violence, intimidation will talk about their grandfathers and great grandfathers' participation in World War II. They will do so with pride, oblivious to the fact these men were battling against precisely the fascism they are buying into and fuelling. These politics of rage are also intertwined with anti-intellectualism and a profound lack of critical thought.

Meandering along the lanes, turning a steady cadence aboard Muffin, engaging the brake lever and feeling the Spyre SLC bite the rotor progressively, it occurred to me. I’ve a tendency to ignore rear brakes much of the time. In addition to double- checking the alignment and piston travel, I needed to go back to basics bedding in Ursula’s rear brake. Get those pads and rotor nice and warm along some sweeping descents, bring the bike progressively to a walking pace. Rinse and repeat until optimised.

I’d also come across a NOS Shimano BR517 at a very tempting price, so indulged as a contingency. It’s a single-piston model and surprisingly compact alongside a Spyre. Yes, my temptation is palpable. However, I’m determined to get an impeccably behaved Spyre. I also decided to get a little more scientific with calliper alignment, courtesy of this tool.    

Progressively cooler weather and falling leaves has seen my sudden switch to 3/4lengths and this Castelli Do Di Ci Jacket  Castelli Do Di Ci Jacket | cycling-not-racing. Temperatures have typically around 9, or 10 degrees when I’ve headed out, creeping up to 13 or 14. At the upper end, arm warmers and a micro jacket should suffice, especially if rest stops aren’t planned but flats or similar sneaky mechanical can flip the script.

I’m still defaulting to mitts, although occasionally it's been cold enough that I’ve reached for these Cycology Life Behind Bars MTB Gloves Cycology Life Behind Bars MTB Gloves | cycling-not-racing  Talking of script flipping, shorter days and longer nights have seen the arrival of these Msagicshine Ray 3000 Endurance Bike Light with ANT+ and Seemee400 ANT+. The Ray 3000 Endurance Bike Light With ANT+ boasts a maximum of 3,000lumens and eight modes, carried across three settings and sequences. Starting with the low beam, which in my view covers most bases of road riding. We have 375lumens (cited as a 22.5-hour run time), two 750lumens (10.5 hours and 13.5 hours) and 1500lumens (4.5 hours). Next comes a hybrid setting comprising of 1500lumens (6.5 hours) and the full 3,000lumens (3hours).

Finally, there are two flashing modes, only accessible via the wireless remote. One of the traditional limitations of integrated battery models are run times, especially in the highest settings. These might be fine for those who primarily ride through the suburbs but want to let loose along the backroads for a few miles. However, the 10000mAh lithium-ion cell employed here promises 4.5 hours from the 1500lumens, which is practical for longer exploratory rides. 3,000lumens is really for trail and gravel duties.

Night flash ranges between 165 and 900lumens. I was initially curious as to whether the remote from other models, including the Hori 1300 Magicshine HORI 1300 Front Light | cycling-not-racing would also engage the Ray3000.  I wasn’t expecting it to, but stranger things have happened.  Staying with the remote, I’ve mounted ours to lever hoods for convenient, mid-ride toggling. Aside from illustrative purposes, I’ve positioned it inboard to prevent potential damage in the event of a spill. It can also be paired with some computer head mounts for further tunability.  

The nicely machined stock mount required two shims to achieve vice-like tenure  on the Genetic Neuron Accessory Bar GENETIC NEURON ACCESSORY BAR | cycling-not-racing  Rather than porting over, I’ve gone with Denise’s stem mount and resurrected the OEM Coospo CS600 Coospo CS600 GPS | cycling-not-racing- I may replace it with another of the Magicshine Allty …

The Seeme 400 is another design producing 400lumens in the braking and daylight flash. There are five modes catering for most riding contexts. Three flashing and two steady.  There’s a third diode poking out from a turret at the base. Referred to as the “Optitracing” light it casts a broad arc at the tarmac, which is really effective. The Seemee 200 V2 was my first introduction to the Optitracing concept, and both these lights seem particularly good choices for trailers, recumbents, tandems and tagalongs. The 1600mAh lithium-ion cell also ensures generous run times.  

On the subject of upgrades, I’ll retire Denise’s Venerable Tektro levers for Dia Compe GC08H come the next cable change. These Genetic Karyotype bottom brackets are earmarked for the Holdsworth and Muffin when their existing units get the grumbles. Muffin will have a 42-tooth Tibia chain ring next time round.

 

Mr Tickle… Disciplining the TRP Spyre

 

No, I’m not referring to Roger Hargreaves creation, or the office letch…I’d been experiencing some very minor, intermittent tickling with Ursula’s rear TRP Spyre. Now, lifting the rear wheel and turning the pedals confirmed the rotor was true and the calliper correctly centred. Ditto the rear wheel.

Before touching anything else, pop the bike on the ground, slacken the quick release and ensure the wheel’s correctly seated within the dropouts. Snug the quick release down and close the lever.

Double check by lifting the rear wheel (popping the bike in a tune up stand, such as this Topeak, makes this and any subsequent tweaking much simpler.) In this instance, everything was behaving impeccably, so this left frame flex. It only happened under load, say when accelerating and would then smooth out. Thru axles are much stiffer, largely eliminating this issue.

Some deliberation and a quicker wander round the web suggested slipping a 3mm Allen key in the pad adjusters and backing the pads out fractionally either side. This would buy a smidge more gap between the rotor, without impairing stopping prowess. Accessing the pad adjusters was tricky, although this Oxford Torque R10 Mini Ratchet Set Oxford Torque RT10 Mini Ratchet Set | cycling-not-racing  came into its own.

Maybe it was psychosomatic but pumping the brake lever a few times suggested small but tangible improvement. Being as it was late in the evening, I wanted to quit while ahead, ruling out becoming wired, dare we say obsessional. Road testing was left until the following morning.  

The humble Spyre divide opinion and in my experience, they require a little more patience to setup and finer adjustments then onward. However, for the most part, they’re straightforward customers and much better fit for me than Avid BB7. Hybrid models, including TRP HY/RD are cable operated but employ a hydraulic reservoir, automatically adjusting pads as they wear.

They work well in my experience. However, the hydraulics are another thing to service. I’d even toyed with buying a different brand of rear calliper. Shimano BR-R517 and 317 seemed a good bet. However, there wasn’t anything wrong with the Spyre, so the sensible, cost-free (save for time) decision was to analyse, trouble shoot, tweak, ride and repeat. The intermittent tinkling continued and the only thing I hadn’t ruled out was rotor health.

Now, the rotor fitted came straight from the brake spares box, so was part worn and intended to get us going following Ursula’s renovations. Pensioning off seemed like a good move and would rule that out as a potential source. No amount of calliper alignment would work if the rotor was slightly warped. Not enough to create mischief in the work stand but amplified by minor flex under pedalling force. I’ve gone for a 160mm Disco brakes Wavey, since I had excellent experiences with one tested back in 2022 Disco Disc Brake Pads and Wavey Rotors | cycling-not-racing . It’s gone up in price but is stainless and very much a known quantity.  

Some Deore rotors going for the proverbial song (£10 pair) so indulged, since like most consumables, rotors wear out and at the least convenient moments. Since conditions allowed, I decided to whip out Ursula's Kinkekt2.1 KINEKT 2.1 SUSPENSION SEAT POST | cycling-not-racing seat post and blast some corrosion inhibitor down the seat tube, before the weather turned.

I toyed with the idea of making a butyl boot for the Kinekt post but didn't have any suitably broad scrap butyl to hand. Neoprene covers are one solution, but they also hold moisture, which can cause corrosion and similar problems later down the line. I dried the post and give the moving parts a shot of Muc-Off Silicone Spray MUC OFF SILICON SHINE POLISH | cycling-not-racing

One thing led to another-since time and weather permitted. The drivetrain was blitzed using Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner Motoverde Drivetrain Cleaner | cycling-not-racing and Oxford Chain Brush Pro Oxford Chain Brush Pro | cycling-not-racing, followed by a through sudsy bucket washing and waxing.  Fully dried, I decided to use up some leftover Finish Line Dry Lube TEST & REVIEW FINISH LINE DRY BIKE LUBRICANT - it was a small, saddlebag size that I'd had since the dawn of time and just taking up space. 

I didn't fancy the wax route this time round but wasn't ready for a stodgier oil-based lubricant just yet. A quick shot of MO94 Muc-Off MO94 Multi Use Spray | cycling-not-racing on the cables, cleat mechanisms and pivot points to flush any residual water out concluded this impromptu post-ride fettling. I’ll close here with my long-term review of the System EX Pro Grease Gun The System EX Pro Grease Gun | cycling-not-racing