Nuisance but necessary & Nice

 

Worn cleats and frayed inner cables were unwelcome but easily sorted. Evasive entry tipped me off about the cleats and a tyre-tickling straddle wire-noted when I was pulling the Carradice’s Velcro strap snug post-ride. I also found myself stripping some more pedals- these nickel-plated SPD/Keo Exustar, which hadn’t been touched, let alone re-greased in twenty years.

The lockring was decidedly stubborn, and though there was still some grease inside, it was clear how frugal some factories are on the lube front. Not quite at the stage where I’m stripping and repacking new pairs before fitting but certainly has me wondering if I should, as a matter of course.  

After countless miles and a particularly memorable tumble with terra firma one icy January morning, the otherwise rugged, low -maintenance and very comfy Wolf Tooth Supple Bar tape is beginning to show some subtle signs of wear and weathering, mercifully around the tops, where it can be protected beneath electrical tape. 5mm thick it certainly absorbs road and trail buzz incredibly well, although getting neat, flowing lines took me a few attempts first time round.

I have other options, the most obvious contender being  The Acros Silicone Bar Wrap LONG-TERM TEST: ACROS SILICONE BAR WRAP | cycling-not-racing  which is also rugged, grippy and provides excellent damping. The embossed pattern tends to hold dirt- think oily fingerprints and similar transfer, which can be frustrating, especially during winter when you’ve touched the bars following a deep bike clean/drivetrain exorcism!

Or for that matter, if the front mech’s dropped the chain too far, and you’ve needed to scoop it back aboard. This happened at the crest of a long climb, when I decided it was big ring time…Oh, and then of course, an approaching Land Rover pilot decided they didn’t fancy changing course.

Mercifully, they seemed to begrudgingly sweep past at the crucial point. I digress. Saddleback has sent me this Silca Nastro Piloti, which boasts “unrivalled durability”, asymmetric texture for high and moderate grip and relatively slimline at 1.85mm (equivalent to 2.5mm when cushioning is factored into the equation).

Theoretically, this means good cushioning without a chunky effect, which is obviously what you’d want on a road bike, although arguably less significant on a gravel, cross, or beast of burden build. Black is one of those ultra practical colours (shades, if we’re being proper, dare I say pedantic) colours and arguably the obvious choice for Denise.

There are quite a few considerations when choosing bar tape aside from colour and damping. Given the quiet but growing popularity for wider, flared drops, tape needs to be long enough to provide a consistent, flattering overlap. Traditionally, corks were the default, and it’s not difficult to see why. It dampens vibration well and is hardwearing. 

Darker colours are more practical for winter/training and daily drivers. Following on from this, corks and other “simpler” materials respond well to being scrubbed with a moderately stiff brush, whereas those with polymer coatings require a much gentler approach to avoid stripping their properties.  

One thing led to another, along came some red bottle cages, which would complement Muffin's existing livery, ruling out colour clashes, or similar faux pas. The Lezyne flow SL was ported over to Ursula. These Wolf Tooth Morse Cages were fitted to Denise. Made from hand-bent hollow stainless steel. The base is drilled not for weight reduction, rather to ensure easy adjustment and ultimately, compatibility with most contemporary framesets. Aside from small compact geometry models, it's also intended for use with bikes using frame fit luggage, such as this Topeak Midloader TOPEAK MIDLOADER FRAME BAG | cycling-not-racing  

Aesthetics aside, bar tape should be pensioned off fairly regularly. Frequency is a hotly debated topic and depends on who you speak to. Abrasion, loss of damping, fading, failing backing adhesive. Seasonally on cross and similar competitions machines, or those doing regular service on indoor trainers.

Bar tape on bikes doing regular turbo trainer service are typically contaminated by sweat, salt, energy drinks. A corrosive cocktail that can result in bar failure. No, not an urban myth.  

Staying with bars, Magishine has sent me their Hori 1300 front light. Magicshine’s build quality and overall performance continues to improve and ultimately impress, especially given the asking price. The Hori features a CNC machined anodised aluminium alloy casing compliant with IPX6 for weatherproofing, pumps out a maximum of 1300 lumens, dipping to 900, 400 and 200, which caters for most road biased contacts.

I should also point out; the lens uses the increasingly common car-type cut off beam to project the light downward and without dazzling oncoming traffic. There are two powerful day and night flashing modes -800 lumen day and 200-1000lumen night, a wireless rechargeable remote.

There’s a very versatile range of mount designed to stack accessories for a really clean aesthetic- a Garmin computer up top, light in the middle, GoPro camera at the bottom, saving considerable real estate. However, those with busier cockpits can always go for the extended mount, positioning the light out front, clearing cables, smaller handlebar bags etc. Right now, I’m in child at Christmas mode but time and mileage will tell.       

     

Forest Frolics & Rainy Reveals

 

The rains came, which was welcome on so many levels and perfect for assessing the performance of tyres and shoes in wet, slippery contexts. I was particularly keen to see how the latest generation of Continental Cross Kings would bite when things tuned slippery, dare we say boggy. They bit and subsequently cornered better than I was expecting but time and  more intense gloop may say different.

They are quite sprightly over hardpack, loose surfaces and indeed, metalled road, although as defaults, I remain impressed by CST Patrol. CST Patrol Folding EPS Tyres | cycling-not-racing I’ve been forming the opinion that the FLR MTX are best suited to broader pedal platforms. Ursula’s Shimano M757 seemed more supportive than more modern dual sided designs and I’ not sure why.

These first generation tend to clog with mud noticeably quicker. I noted some Juice Lubes Bearing Juice creeping from the bodies. Maybe I’d been a little too generous, a little too liberal but we’re talking creep, not oozing. I was also impressed by how well the NOS SR Suntour mech scooped the chain between rings- snappy and reliable, even under load. Sure, it seemed fine on the stand, and designed for a triple, there’s plenty of throw. However, stuff can play impeccably on the stand and misbehave on the road, or trail.   

Upon returning and giving both of us a good clean, using up the last of the Nzero degreaser NZero Bike Degreaser | cycling-not-racing and indeed, the Peaty’s Link Lube All Weather. Then was also the time to switch pedals- I went for the A530 since they should bring out the FLR MXT’s best qualities.

Horses for courses, essentially. While I default to gravel and cross-country mountain bike shoes for general riding, road included, since the soles are stiff but still compliant and grippy enough for walking but are a little too sporty for more adventurous outings, touring particularly.  

These Sidi Aertis are another design that bridge the gap between mountain biking and gravel, although, riding with merino blend socks, I wasn’t surprised to find myself with wet feet given twenty minutes in a heavy downpour. Mercifully, the shoe’s profile means thinner waterproof socks are also realistic (and would be a must for me, during the winter months, although I’d probably switch to the Shimano MW7 Shimano MW7 (MW702) Gore Tex MTB Shoes | cycling-not-racing) by the time things turn wintry wild).

A touring shoe of the FLR’s genre also has scope for waterproof socks. Much as I anticipated, the FLR kept persistent rain at bay for an hour before it became palpable. Fine for commuting and similar duties without recourse to toe covers, overshoes etc. 

Flex was more palpable when on the fixed and charging up the climbs, but I didn't want to go for a single sided, hybrid design. Even though the bottom bracket gives a sporting chance when cornering, there's greater clearance with the Shimano 540 and being dual sided, it's easier to clip in and power away-say at the traffic lights.   

Talking of lights, the new seasons models are beginning to become available. I've been sent this Cat Eye Tight Kinetic, which is impressive for the price. A "braking" function for £23 would've been unheard of, just a few seasons back. I've also received this Lezyne Flow Cage SL Enhanced.

I regret passing my last pair of Lezyne flow on, so was rather pleased to be sent another for testing. Left- and right-hand specific models are nothing new, but some are definitely more ergonomic and though debatable, arguably one of the last words in customisation. On a strictly personal note, Lezyne’s are the best I've used to date.    

Side entry cages are what's called for on smaller compact geometry framesets, since you can both fit and access bottles without catching knuckles on the top tube, or indeed, frame fit pump-should you run one. They’re also a good fit for gravel and bike packing contexts where you’re running a bag within the main triangle.

 I'm a convert to the mini compressor type inflators, at least for roadside rescue, although Muffin, Ursula and Denise still carry a Topeak Road Master Blaster. Muc-Off Airmach and Lezyne as reliable, efficient backups.

The rains and wet roads were really useful from a testing perspective, although I wasn't surprised to discover things performing as I'd expected. However, standing water meant bikes were suitably filthy given a few outings. I'd seen some bike wash going silly cheap and was keen to see how it compared with some premium blends, not least since I was down to the Stan's No tubes.

 I tend to give bikes a good wash n' wax, since they cut through the grime, while leaving a protective wax barrier behind. Nonetheless, I don't always want to take this route and bike washes still have their place. 

I was pleasantly surprised by how effective the budget potions were on heavily encrusted organic grot, although as I'd hope it's not potent enough to strip oily, or greasy stuff. I reached for this Dynamic drivetrain detox to strip the residual Peaty's Like Lube and modest contaminant from the rings, chain and cassette.

Having exhausted this, I've switched to TF2, which is a competent and inexpensive all-weather formula that holds out well in moderately wet conditions, although attracts more contaminant than more sophisticated blends and also contains PTFE, which isn't particularly kind to us, or the wider environment. Formative outings on Muffin suggests the thru axle to quick release conversion is very dependable and seems slightly stiffer than traditional quick release configuration. I've also gone for the slightly narrower (38mm section) Vittoria adventure tyres, which run at a similar pressure to the Continentals and gives a little more clearance around the Gravel Hugger front guard.  Talking of tyres, here’s my review of the Maxxis Rambler Maxxis Rambler Tubeless Ready Tyres | cycling-not-racing

The Repack aka Green Goo & Happy Pedals

 

After some deliberation and in some instances, a few years too many, I decided it was time to strip some of the Shimano pedals, specifically the M737 hailing from 1990. Cue Shimano TL-PD40SPD Axle removal tool, a 36mm headset spanner, some Juice Lubes Bearing Juice and WTB Grease. Though very effective, I’ve since gone for a metal tool with integrated handle, simply as its likely to be more durable, dare I say, more convenient.  

I started with these Shimano ED500, which have served well but were only a few years old. The lockring came free with reassuring ease and out with the axle. A quick wipe with a rag dipped in solvent rids any residual gunk or lube that might react unfavourably with the bearing juice or otherwise create mischief.

Mercury in the high twenties had softened the green synthetic putty nicely.  A liberal dollop from my index finger into the pedal body and from there simply a question of threading the axle home-noting right and left-hand threads.  Snugged down to 10nm the nasty soiled grease is forced out (in the same principle as pumping grease into a dedicated grease port). 

Wipe this and excess fresh grease. Now give the pedals a spin and check for any signs of play.  Ten minutes apiece, done twice yearly this will extend the life of bearings and other internals considerably.  Any decent waterproof grease will do, although I prefer stocky synthetics since they won't do anything nasty to seals and other rubberised components. 

A blend such as Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing is arguably better for hubs and Hollowtech II cranksets and possibly headsets but work just fine on pedals, if you’re a time triallist, or just really keen to keep friction lower than a snake’s testicles. I repeated this proves with the single sided A520 and its 530mountain bike counterpart. WTB WT-G Precision Bike Grease Wolf Tooth WT-G Precision Bike Grease | cycling-not-racing in the former, bearing juice the latter.

Back together and buttery smooth. 25 minutes all told, start to finish and strangely therapeutic. I switched Denise’s Leatt Endurance 6.0 in their favour, since I’d a hunch these patterns are the natural companion for the FLR MXT. Spoiler alert, this would seem so, although there’s a definite honeymoon period when it comes to contact points, any change.

I’ve always been a gang of one, my father perhaps unkindly referred to as a “non-joiner” hence I don’t belong to clubs, or similar social riding groups. I’ll chat, maybe share a joke mid ride, or at rest stops and I’m socially adept in commercial contexts. However, I’m very self-aware, can tell who is/not a good fit for me, like my own space and solitude to reflect and re-charge.  

The point of this lead up is the sudden preoccupation with a “male loneliness epidemic”. I’m not sure this is a contemporary phenomenon, rather getting a lot of attention in the context of romantic relationships. It has long been evidenced that men experience isolation due to their shrinking networks and relationships linked to formal work, whereas women forge cooperative relationships and identities beyond work and their immediate household.

This also means that many male relationships are centred around t economic sphere, and should there be a break- a loss in employment and the structures around this.

While this may have tapered off a little, thanks to the increasing number of people working remotely, there are a wealth of interactions engaged in and related with work. Similarly, there is the question of whether workplace relationships have any tangible depth or relevance outside of that environment.  Some people also persist or tolerate unhealthy relationships on the basis they fill a void and distract from tackling the real, underlying issues.  

I would also take some issue with the idea that gender roles have become more fluid. I'm not sure whether this is influencing a shift toward popularist right wing support, or whether such popularism seeks to entice people who are feeling more isolated, taking them along the classic fascist rabbit holes. Blaming women and other groups- trans people in particular for the perceived shortcomings-lack of status, access to opportunities etc. Classic themes in the fascist playbook.

Then of course, there is the stoking of fear. At present there is arguably a status anxiety, a sense of cultural de-throning. At its most basic, this is about people feeling threatened, resentful towards others and a desire not for improved opportunities, quality of life, or economic prosperity but pushing other groups down. This leads to a sense of restored dominance, dare I say superiority over others.  Right, I must whip out the patch kit and assert dominance over some wounded butyl.

 

Conversion Therapy AKA The Bargain that Nearly Wasn't...

 

No, not that sort, although given the political climate, it’s not something I should be flippant about. Having spotted a suitable Shimano 6v 3w unit for the proverbial on a well-known auction site and secured a deal, you can imagine the profound sense of deflation upon discovering it was a thru axle, not quick release version.  Then came the lightbulb moment...Converter kits must be available... A few keystrokes into Google later and several 15-10mm and 12-10mm converters popped up.

Chinese patterns in keeping with patterns per se, ran the risk of them being an imperfect fit. I found a mid-point unit that had received some very positive reviews, so went for it rather than risking something joining the spares bin and ultimately, money wasted. Meantime, I left the hub and Halo White Line hoop with Mick Madgett so he could work his magic.  Another small but significant job off my list before the nights began drawing in.  

Mick finished the build in a few days. I fitted rim tape, added a little Oxford Mint Assembly Grease Oxford Mint Assembly Grease | cycling-not-racing to the converter and slid it into the hub shell-reassuringly snug but should release without too much difficulty. There are, predictably, various schools of thought when it comes to lubricating these. Some advocate copper paste, which can be very effective, and some folks apply this to freehub bodies. However, it can also become a gritty mess after a while, especially during a wet, slimy winter.

Others suggest a silicone-based product and I had considered using this Muc-Off MUC OFF SILICON SHINE POLISH | cycling-not-racing but was a little concerned I might forget to replenish and given a long, wet spell, things might get right royally stuck. Galvanic corrosion can also strike quick release skewers, if they’re not lightly regreased. I’d say quarterly on bikes in hard service (mountain, gravel, commuters, or training bikes) yearly on a sunny day’s plaything.         

Nexus and Alfine are the current dyno hub models within the Shimano range- XT and Ultegra are still available, but not current. Again, it is important to go for the 6V 3W models if you're looking for a good spread of useable light. There are some XT units that are only 1.5w, providing very limited output, although these are frequently offered at a considerable discount.

I like discount but not lighting of the glimmer variety.  I'd looked at Novatec but wasn't overly impressed with their resistance and didn’t want to go too cheap either-it’s not a bargain if it doesn’t deliver what you require of it. DT Swiss also produce a competitively priced hub dynamo in partnership with Shutter Precision.

Elsewhere, I’ve been racking up the miles with these Sidi Aertis MTB Shoes. Our 44 tip the scales at 674g, slightly heavier than my Shimano RX6 go-tos and coming from the Boa setup, Sidi’s Firmor and Tecno 3 closure systems were a little counter intuitive for the first couple of outings, but that’s a minor point and no issues since. The soles are supportive and offer excellent power transfer but are similarly compliant when walking or indeed shouldering the bike through more technical sections.  Bob Elliot & Co sent me these FLR MXT Vibram.

As the name suggests, these are an mtb design employing an aggressive Vibram outer sole, which is designed for riding and walking in more challenging contexts. Interestingly, the upper is made from a water-resistant faux leather, with a reinforced genuine leather toe. Then of course, there’s FLR’s take on the Boa dial.  They certainly feel very rugged, although that is also reflected in their weight-935g for the 44.

Though I still maintain the Peaty’s Lik Lube All Weather is best suited to spring, summer and early autumn, it’s proving my go-to lube for those times when the weather’s predominantly dry but there’s the risk off the odd wet ride. Conditions where most “barely there” dry, or wax formulas are all too readily washed away but heavier formulas can attract grime.

There’s enough for one, maybe two chains in the bottle, but I’m reflecting upon its replacement. There are some obvious choices. Peaty’s Link Lube Dry PEATYS LINK LUBE DRY CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing Blub Ceramic Blub Ceramic Chain Lube | cycling-not-racing  is another, although the latter is best suited to bikes in daily service, since if it will need re-applying, should the bike be unused for 48 hours.

Weldtite TF2 All Weather TF2 PERFORMANCE ALL WEATHER LUBRICANT | cycling-not-racing is a slightly cruder middleweight and attracts more dirt but a little goers surprisingly far and it's inexpensive. The cleaner, the better during this primarily dry period- especially when I’m venturing beyond asphalt.  Silca Super-Secret Chain Coating Silca Super Secret Chain Coating | cycling-not-racing is another option- it's clean and quick curing ….

 

Dynohub dilemmas

 

I’m a big fan of dynamos and hub dynamos specifically and there’s something incredibly satisfying about navigating by your own, high-quality lighting. I’ve run hub dynamos since 2001, when I went for a Shimano Nexus unit which, by contemporary standards produced huge amounts of resistance. Fine for commuting and using a “seen by” lamp-I’d run it with Ursula for a while but an Ultegra unit and 800lumen Exposure Revo were literally light years ahead.

I’m still very fond of the Shutter Precision hubs HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILD, which are light, well-executed and very smooth. My one gripe is the need for them to be sent back to the factory for bearing replacement. I’ve consistently returned 20,000miles from the sealed cartridge bearings- typically three years, so the hub and cost of wheel building is perfectly economic-repaid their investment. However, my preference is for something at least partially user-serviceable, especially consumables, such as bearings, which by definition are bound to wear out.

Shimano is the obvious option. I’d contemplated a Kaisai unit, which are user serviceable and make a lot of sense for arse end of nowhere touring (not that I’d want an expired hub dynamo, or any other component anywhere). Neds to be disc compatible-ideally centre lock. I’ve had the Halo/SL9 wheel trued and will run that as the spare for now. Temperatures have been consistently high here in the UK. I’m not remotely surprised since 2025 was projected to be the hottest on record and further evidence of climate change.

I’m favouring jerseys and other clothing with high factor SPF yarns, sometimes long sleeves, such as this Cycology Men’s Summit Long Sleeve Jersey Cycology Men’s Summit Lightweight Summer | cycling-not-racing or indeed, this Funkier Ixara Gents Elite Jersey Funkier Ixara Gents Elite Jersey | cycling-not-racing . A fully laden, frozen back bottle TESTED: BACK BOTTLE CYCLING WATER BOTTLE is another really useful cooling aid for hotter rides. Glasses with UVA & B protection and photochromic lenses are another default.  Well-ventilated footwear and decent socks shouldn’t be overlooked either. I’ll never forget the summer of 1992 and some badly burned soles, courtesy of black patent road shoes and long miles along molten roads.

Coupled with cheap polyester socks and a basic nylon sole proved a recipe for painfully blistered feet. While they had a decent amount of float, I don't miss hobbling/waddling around sans bike, not to mention gouging chunks out of expensive lino. Still, they were what might be termed an aspirational purchase, plucked from the sale bin at a frequent local haunt- all 18-year-old me could afford at the time and they served surprisingly well.  There was and to some extent is something very romantic about that era and indeed, getting a bargain but those years are also tinged with painful regrets in other areas of life, regrets that are etched deep, even now.  We cannot change the past, only our relationship to it, or indeed, them. 

Three decades plus, I’ve gone over to the stiffer soled FLR F70 Prop MTB M250 FLR F70 Pro MTB M250 Shoe | cycling-not-racing  which I my experience, give a little more efficiency aboard Muffin, which is palpable on the climbs-remember, honking might be vulgar on a tourer, or gravel build but perfectly acceptable on the fixed. Saddleback, the UK’s Sidi distributor thoughtfully sent me these Sidi Aertis MTB shoes, which promise a blend of efficiency, with sufficient give in the sole for navigating the trail sans bike or just plodding about mid-ride.

Theoretically extending their horizons to bike packing, touring, cyclo cross and indeed, winter training.  The latter duties are amplified further by the toe studs. The soles are made from Nylon and employ specialist polyurethane inserts for comfort. Some would argue in favour of carbon at this price point. However, carbon tends to limit walking or running prowess and can be a little too stiff on longer rides, so arguably an engineered choice, rather than a cost cutting exercise. 

 I’d forgotten how good the Maxxis Roamer TESTED : MAXXIS ROAMER TYRES are, especially along poorly surfaced lanes, while still being fairly swift. Be interesting to see how they compare longer term, with the Continental Pure Contact, which remains (and will stay) at the rear, since they are proving very dependable, compliant and again, relatively swift for big volume rubber.   Elsewhere, a bearing strip and re-grease of the Shimano XT pedals led me to resurrecting these original SPD from 1990. Still buttery smooth and so glad I’ve held on to them.  I also switched Denise’s Ergon  All Road Core Comp Ergon SR All Road Core Comp Saddle Men | cycling-not-racing back to the Pro Turnix Gel, since I’d been experiencing some chafing  along my inner right thigh.