Sliding into September

 

After some long, steady miles and pre soggy season prep, I began contemplating stem lengths and wheel switches. Switching Denise to the WTB drops was a good decision. However, I’ve concluded I needed a shorter extension, since my proportionally short torso means I’m feeling a little stretched.

Cue a quick wander round the web and this 25mm long CNC machined unit from the Far East (of all places!) True, it lacks the exotica or refinement of some, but I was keen to ensure I’d got the correct length and could upgrade later down the line, should need arise. May also upgrade the quill adaptor-had to deal with some reticence when slackening, which ultimately led to discovering the expander wedge shedding its threads. I’ve replaced with one from the spares box and acquired this higher-end replacement and will substitute in due course.  While price typically reflects quality, it’s important to ensure a couple of things.

Firstly, don’t default to the Aheadset method, leave a millimetre or two of the top proud. Secondly, once you’ve everything aligned, ensure you’ve got some grease on the wedge and bolt before torquing it down to around 16nm. The wedge should be well and truly lodged in place- no wibble when rocking the bars as you might when turning sharply, say on as fast descent.  

 There are folks who really dislike quill converters full stop and there are a few options. Have a skilled frame builder add a threadless steerer to the existing fork crown- as Lee Cooper did here Oldie But Goodie: Fork Repair & Revision | cycling-not-racing. Alternatively, Inn Cycle offer a threadless conversion headset. Never seen one in the flesh, so can’t comment but they do look well engineered. Custom quill stems are another option.    

Mick Madgett built the Halo TK hub into the Ryde Taurus rim, which led me to switching Muffin’s Mavic Fix-G. HALO FIX G TRACK HUB | Seven Day Cyclist Tourin Tests Commuting and giving it a good clean.  The sprocket had become quite scuzzy given a few weeks in very hot conditions, turning the Weldtite TF2 All Weather Lube runnier and stickier, so it attracted more dirt. 

It will be interesting to see how the newest PTFE- free version fares in this and other respects. Both variants penetrate the chain’s inner sanctum very effectively and I’ve found the original very effective on fixed gear and single speed chains. Switching Muffin’s rear wheel has me wondering if the chainline was very slightly off with the Fix-G hub and I might need to revise the spacer widths to correct this.

Weldtite has also sent me the latest incarnation of a drip wax they’ve been working on for two years. Claimed to return 300km (186miles) in all conditions, not just balmy summer days, I’ve fed some to Denise’s KMC and Muffin’s Izumi and will see how it fares in the coming, increasingly autumnal weeks.

Generally speaking, I default to middle and heavier weight oils, rather than waxes, or more exotic blends when it comes to fixed and single speed chains. However, fair weather conditions and curiosity are why I’ve gone the wax route. Weldtite suggest you can double up for higher miles per application, so I’ve taken this route, without being overly generous.  

Curing times are influenced by temperatures and other factors, including humidity.  

Deep cleaning recipient drivetrains is essential when it comes to waxes and indeed, lubes of different genres. Applied in temperatures around 20 degrees and given a 45 second shake to mix everything thoroughly, it emerges from the spout very predictably, as middleweight creamy emulsion. Not one I’d risk applying indoors, mind. Curing times are in hours- bargain on four in these temperatures, leave it overnight if you can.

 When cured, it assumes a clear glazed state.  Formative impressions suggest low friction and crisp shifts. The bigger question will be how it sheds contaminant-does it attract less grime, is it one of those that flakes away when contaminant gets trapped in the outer layer, flaking off at a certain point to leave a thinner lubricant layer behind… I’ve reached my conclusions regarding the Silca Nastro Piloti Bar Tape Silca Nastro Piloti Bar Tape | cycling-not-racing, which has (and continues to impress with its rugged, grippy natue-impressive in the wet and offering excellent connections with the bars.

Staying with wet stuff, I’d decided it was time to enjoy some forest and bridlepath fun aboard Ursula- I also wanted to see how the Continental Cross Kings and FLR MXT Vibram Trail Shoes coped with bogy mud. Spoiler alert, feet had more traction than tyres. Having ridden a few miles along some mixed, unmade roads and green lanes and generally enjoying ourselves, I couldn’t resist some very goopy bridlepath.

Whoosh…Big grin was quickly substituted by surprise as we hurled in slow motion towards a hedge. Mercifully, the resilient and relatively soft foliage caught our imminent slide, and I slowly came to soft earth, protecting Ursula into the bargain.  Knobblies had definitely become slicks, and as I suspected, the FLR’s Vibram soles will attract soft gloop. However, as I’d hoped, they do shed it surprisingly well- no issues with clipping in and out.  Having returned, I wasted no time in giving Ursla a justly deserved sudsy bucket wash, drivetrain purge, polish and switch to this Weldtite Wax. 

Fettling Orgies

 

Having packed pedals, since I wanted to see how stiff this particular lithium-based prep would be through the darker, wetter months, I applied to Denise’s Hollowtech II axle. There was ample Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing clinging on, but then was the time. I’d noted the pinch bolts and pre-load were a little dry. The former were unexpectedly arthritic, so regreasing was imperative before seizure could creep in and cause mischief at the least convenient moment.     

Lithium based preps have an unenviable reputation for gobbling seals, elastomers and other rubberised components and can be a little stodgy.  

Fine on contact points, and very durable on winter hubs, but not necessarily desirable if you're competing and want to keep resistance at a minimum. While there's more discernible resistance compared with blends such as Peaty's Speed Grease (which I also surprisingly durable) its much lower than I'd expected and buttery smooth.

Staying prowess, temperature stability, water resistance and general durability are definite plusses and explains their traditional popularity in marine and automotive applications. Time will tell, but at £4.99 for 150ml, at face value, it seems a bargain for generic metal on metal duties.  It’s also been applied to cleat hardware, (which we're all guilty of neglecting until time comes for their replacement).  

Galvanic corrosion, say between metals of different parentage can be another issue- I wouldn't apply lithium to a titanium seat post used in a steel, or aluminium alloy frame for example. However, I'd be less concerned about an anodised aluminium post being used in a steel frame. A polished, fluted aluminium alloy post and I'd be reaching for a synthetic, or failing that, something PTFE based. 

I’ve decided to stick with wax and dry lubes while the weather allows and having covered 250odd miles on the Blub Wax, I’ve got busy with some Carbon friendly drivetrain cleaner, which I’ve had for some years and resurrected from the lubes box. It’s fairly straightforward to apply-simply spray liberally on the drivetrain, leave for a couple of minutes, agitate with a stiff bristled brush, or something like this Finish Line Gunge Brush Finish Line Grunge Brush Solo | cycling-not-racing

I reached for some Muc-Off Dry, since that was close to hand, MUC OFF DRY CHAIN LUBE | cycling-not-racing In my experience, its closer to an emulsion and requires at least four hours to cure properly. Like the Blub, can also melt when temperatures hit the high 20s. In this state, it’s still relatively durable but also readily transfers to hands-annoying if you’ve dropped a chain, or needing to tackle a mid-ride mechanical. Checking the chain health suggests more life than first believed just past .25, so reckon I’ll get to the close of October, possibly even November before its bin fodder. However, I’ve pruned a fresh one down to 108 links in readiness for a quick switch. I noted the front brake pads were looking a little tired, so took this opportunity to replace the pads and regrease the cantilever posts using the Zefal Pro II Grease, which was time well spent and another little job off the list before autumn.   

Talking of switches, following a hunch that packing single sided pedal bodies with a stout grease would offer some weighting (making engagement easier) I switched Muffin to the silver A520 and also moved the down tube bottle cage slightly, which improved access.  

I’m pleased to report the Juice Lubes Bearing Juice has added some weighting and thus, made re-entry (say when frequently clipping in and out in slow moving traffic) more convenient.  While I was there, I  noted the K-Lite Ultra Low Drag K-LITE ULTRA LOW DRAG DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing lamp rotating slightly on the Genetic Neuron Accessory Mount GENETIC NEURON ACCESSORY BAR | cycling-not-racing . easily cured by wrapping some scrap inner tube around the mount and replaced the 2.5mm cable ties.   

The nights were quickly drawing in, providing the perfect opportunity to assess the Magicshine Hori 1300’s prowess and I’ve been impressed, not only by the output but its useability. The wireless remote makes it very easy to toggle up and down to avoid dazzling other road users. To my surprise, though obviously good in the seen-with sense, the night flash is potent enough to navigate unlit roads by- at least to 14mph, which is useful should you need to drop down to conserve battery. 

Diversions Still Waters & Simplicity

 

There's much to be thankful for but sometimes it feels as if I'm living on borrowed time. I had hoped to be more secure, dare I say, recession-proof by this point in my life but then life can often divert us. Factors such as intelligence and education are significant in determining our future, but are two very different things.

Then of course, there are those who just inherit wealth and can live off the security this provides. I’m often amused (and privately infuriated) by those who inherit a successful business and purport to be self- made. A  narrative often reinforced by their family and immediate circle. Often overlooked in all of this is the ability to adapt. Those who cannot (or will not) are at a pronounced disadvantage.    

The pandemic arguably reconfigured the construct of certainty-the importance of making the most of everyday and in every way possible.  There are balances of probability but no guarantees.  Nostalgia is a dangerous distraction, although I can readily appreciate the sense of comfort it may bring.

Occasionally high-end NOS components pop up at very tempting prices. Some are still very relevant- I saw a pair of Suntour XCD single speed hubs-120mm spacing, so (almost) perfect for a single-speed winter/trainer based around a track/road path frameset. Cup and cone simplicity but with beefy seals to keep the elements out.  As an engineer once aid to me, there's a fine line between beneficial and overly complex enclosure. 

I've always been drawn to hub gearing but deterred by accessibility and being honest wheel removal following a flat is more involved. Not what I want on a cold January morning ten miles from home, but others would rightly point out is a matter of familiarity.

Could it be an irrational fear of something different... I spotted this Halo TK track hub going for a proverbial song- 32 holes and white, which explains the favourable asking price. I can live with white. I also spotted a 32-hole Ryde Taurus rim going for considerably less than the otherwise excellent Sputnik. It’s intended for gravel and similarly heavy-duty duties, so perfect for the rigors of winter.

Sealed cartridge bearings, freewheel one side, fixed the other-what's not to like. This kind of spec also lends itself to single speed cyclo cross, which has always appealed to me- mud, simplicity and ease of cleaning are definite draws. Then again, I'm always saying these things, only for the completed vision to evolve into something more complex, some might say cluttered. Denise wasn't intended to sport a four-point rack or secondary lighting, but these have proved immensely practical additions. 

I've switched Muffin to the Shimano PD ED500 Shimano PD ED 500 Pedals | cycling-not-racing since I fancied a change and wanted to further test my theory that shoes such as the FLR MTX and Shimano GTX are best suited to broader bodies, which provide some additional support and offset some flex that's required of a shoe also designed to be walked in. Pedal body width is also mitigated by 165mm cranks and a lofty bottom bracket. 

I'd been tempted to go the dual sided Exustar route, but aside from the additional heft, I was only going to be using the SPD side. I my experience, dual sided-whether SPD, or TIME ATAC is always the most convenient marriage- step in and scoot off. No faffing and flailing trying to locate the cleated side.

That said, if you did want to go the single sided route, patterns such as Shimano's now discontinued A520, or the current ES600 (Ultegra grade) have a tapered profile, providing greater support to touring and bikepacking shoes. One thing led to another, and I found myself stripping the M540 and XT Shimano Deore XT PD-M8100 Pedals | cycling-not-racing pedals, filling the former with Peaty’s Speed Grease PEATY'S SPEED GREASE | cycling-not-racing, the latter with some Zefal lithium grease- the latter was green and visually reminiscent of Shimano’s factory stuff.  

With the mercury hitting the high 20s, I decided it was time to give Denise a sudsy bucket clean and switch to some Blub Wax chain lube before heading out for some dusty byway blasting- I was keen to see how securely the Wolf tooth cages would hold 750ml bottles off road.

Not that I was expecting any ejection-there wasn’t (although stainless cages can still prove quite springy, depending on the diameter). The Wolf Tooth are relatively slender, so will fit nicely with older road bikes with pencil-thin tube sets and are a good aesthetic fit on Denise. Since I was there, I removed Denise’s USE seat post and blasted some waxy corrosion inhibitor inside the seat tube, then applied some of the Zefal to the post, binder bolt, not forgetting the quill adaptor.  I’d also noted that the stem and wedge bolts were somewhat stubborn, so treated the threaded sections more generously. Aside from a good connection, this would also test for galvanic corrosion, which was a traditional issue with lithium, greases and metals of different parentage.  

 I’d also found two razor sharp hedge clippings buried deep in the front Maxxis Rambler- new tube, old one patched and a noter to replenish my 700c stock.      

I will switch the cages over to Muffin, since Wolf Tooth claim they’re designed to accommodate frames where space is at a premium, whether this be a compact main triangle, or one consumed by bike packing luggage. Though not tricky, I'm finding removal of those bigger, trade bottles less convenient on the seat tube with the existing composite models, due in part to the Topeak frame fit pump nestling beneath the top tube.  

Something I'd expect, given the price, but bottle entry and release with the Wolf Tooth is super dependable-even when hossing along. I've also been pleasantly surprised by how well the Silca bar tape has coped off road. Leach like purchase was expected, and I like the direct connection with the bars, but no jarring, or fatigue thus far.    

As for the Blub, this doesn't cure to the usual paraffin type consistency, rather assumes a wetter state-something I'd forgotten and came as a surprise when I glanced down at the drivetrain. Some waxes just run very clean, others scab off when the weight of contaminant reaches a critical mass. I decided to clean some accumulated gunk from the jockey wheels after a few off road excursions, which was strangely satisfying.

Miles per application is surprisingly good from this and its ceramic cousin, but both need to be reapplied if bikes have been standing for 48 hours. Not an issue for a daily driver, but potentially impractical on a best, or race bike that may only come out at weekends. 

Swapping n' Stripping

 

150 miles hence and my bruised inner right thigh reminded me why I substituted it. This time round, I’ve reached for Selle Royal Respiro, which is something of an “old faithful”. Should it prove a little narrow, I’ll reach for the BBB Echelon, which is another all-rounder but slightly broader-145mm at the widest point. Madison have sent me their M Part Primo anti-slip silicone gel bar tape.

 Available in four colours- red, black, blue and white, it employs a silicone underlay for damping and a Polyurethane exterior for tactile purchase. It’s a little heavier than some at 128g (complete and uncut)  I’ve dressed Mufin’s bars since it contrasts nicely and I’m very satisfied  with the Wolf Tooth Supple Lite Wolf Tooth Supple Lite Bar Tape | cycling-not-racing adorning Ursula’s Soma Condor 2 SOMA CONDOR 2 SHALLOW DROP BARS |   which  offers a good blend of connection, damping and grip without undue bulk.

It’s also in very good shape, so stays-for now at least. Arguably, no need to go beyond 2.5mm, even off road since the big 2.3inch tyres also provide plush, refined comfort. Before I forget, here’s Steve’s review of the Continental  Contact Speed Continental Contact Speed Tyres | cycling-not-racing      

The M Part Primo is surprisingly easy to fit and thoughtfully employs a tacky silicone backing strip, rather than the traditional adhesives, meaning its tolerant of correction. No cheater strips either which suits me, since I’ve found myself defaulting to the “figure of eight” technique around the brake levers. Plenty of tape left, despite generous overlap on these 44cm wide Genetic D-Riser 4 GENETIC DRISER 4 HANDLEBARS | cycling-not-racing

Elsewhere, I've been harvesting some smaller fasteners, specifically bottle cage mounting hardware, not least as it's good to have some decent staples in stock-a chainring bolt can go rogue and create mischief at the least expected (read convenient) moment. Particularly on the fixed. Several years down the line, I’m still seriously impressed by these Genetic Tibia GENETIC TIBIA TRACK CRANKS & RING | cycling-not-racing

Obviously, it’s important to get the correct bolt and collar length, not to mention applying a light coating of assembly grease. This will give you a sporting chance of removing them when ring replacement’s due.  

 Aluminium alloy fasteners might sabe a few grams while looking pretty into the bargain but where components are under load, I reach for Cro-moly every time and twice on Sundays. I’ve wasted no time in fitting them to Dobbin and torquing down to 12nm. Another little job off the list.  

 On the subject of small parts, I'm keeping an eye out for a replacement skewer for my TWBents Bob Yak homage trailer.

I'm confident I've stashed the original unit safely away in one of my storage boxes, following Ursula's renovation last year. Spares of this kind make sense. However, some folks have been hawking them for £74 apiece, which is laughable, not to mention uneconomic. I always preferred that coupling system to that employed on the original Bob Yak. I was fond of mine but there were some things that merited improvement/felt a little fragile.   

  A few hundred miles down the line and I'm reaching the conclusion that the FLR MXT Vibram Trail Shoes are best suited to pedals with a broader, or at least, tapered angular profile.

This includes these Wellgo, which offer greater support (and consequently efficiency) than the mighty dual side cross country M540 and XTs. They do strike an excellent balance between stiffness and walking for longer periods-think touring and bike packing rather than gravel racing, or competitive. They’re a notch or so better on the riding and walking fronts than the otherwise likeable Shimano MT701 GTX SPD  Shimano MT701 GTX SPD Shoes | cycling-not-racing

Staying with pedals a moment, here’s a quick guide to keeping them cleaned, greased and happy Simple Pedal Overhaul | cycling-not-racing I’ve acquired some lever rubbers-primarily since the WTB bars wide flare tends to see the lever ends grazed against brickwork, which sets me on edge for several reasons. Might also provide some additional grip when riding in the wet.  

On the chain lube front, I'm continuing to default to the TF2 Performance All Weather Lubricant TF2 PERFORMANCE ALL WEATHER LUBRICANT | cycling-not-racing . This is a lighter middleweight that returns decent mileage in changeable conditions but without attracting too much grot, especially along fire roads and forest trails.   I've since discovered that Weldtite have revised the formula, removing the PTFE component, which has me intrigued...

Whipped out the chain checker and Denise's KMC is still in reasonable health 3 months down the line. I’m confident I’ll get a further six weeks, or 600 mixed terrain miles before its retired. That said, I bought another batch of staples, since chain wear can be very sneaky.  A bit like the front mech, which has dropped the chain a couple of times recently-nothing turning the adjustment screw 1/8^th of a turn didn’t fix, but annoying and inconvenient at the time.

 

Nuisance but necessary & Nice

 

Worn cleats and frayed inner cables were unwelcome but easily sorted. Evasive entry tipped me off about the cleats and a tyre-tickling straddle wire-noted when I was pulling the Carradice’s Velcro strap snug post-ride. I also found myself stripping some more pedals- these nickel-plated SPD/Keo Exustar, which hadn’t been touched, let alone re-greased in twenty years.

The lockring was decidedly stubborn, and though there was still some grease inside, it was clear how frugal some factories are on the lube front. Not quite at the stage where I’m stripping and repacking new pairs before fitting but certainly has me wondering if I should, as a matter of course.  

After countless miles and a particularly memorable tumble with terra firma one icy January morning, the otherwise rugged, low -maintenance and very comfy Wolf Tooth Supple Bar tape is beginning to show some subtle signs of wear and weathering, mercifully around the tops, where it can be protected beneath electrical tape. 5mm thick it certainly absorbs road and trail buzz incredibly well, although getting neat, flowing lines took me a few attempts first time round.

I have other options, the most obvious contender being  The Acros Silicone Bar Wrap LONG-TERM TEST: ACROS SILICONE BAR WRAP | cycling-not-racing  which is also rugged, grippy and provides excellent damping. The embossed pattern tends to hold dirt- think oily fingerprints and similar transfer, which can be frustrating, especially during winter when you’ve touched the bars following a deep bike clean/drivetrain exorcism!

Or for that matter, if the front mech’s dropped the chain too far, and you’ve needed to scoop it back aboard. This happened at the crest of a long climb, when I decided it was big ring time…Oh, and then of course, an approaching Land Rover pilot decided they didn’t fancy changing course.

Mercifully, they seemed to begrudgingly sweep past at the crucial point. I digress. Saddleback has sent me this Silca Nastro Piloti, which boasts “unrivalled durability”, asymmetric texture for high and moderate grip and relatively slimline at 1.85mm (equivalent to 2.5mm when cushioning is factored into the equation).

Theoretically, this means good cushioning without a chunky effect, which is obviously what you’d want on a road bike, although arguably less significant on a gravel, cross, or beast of burden build. Black is one of those ultra practical colours (shades, if we’re being proper, dare I say pedantic) colours and arguably the obvious choice for Denise.

There are quite a few considerations when choosing bar tape aside from colour and damping. Given the quiet but growing popularity for wider, flared drops, tape needs to be long enough to provide a consistent, flattering overlap. Traditionally, corks were the default, and it’s not difficult to see why. It dampens vibration well and is hardwearing. 

Darker colours are more practical for winter/training and daily drivers. Following on from this, corks and other “simpler” materials respond well to being scrubbed with a moderately stiff brush, whereas those with polymer coatings require a much gentler approach to avoid stripping their properties.  

One thing led to another, along came some red bottle cages, which would complement Muffin's existing livery, ruling out colour clashes, or similar faux pas. The Lezyne flow SL was ported over to Ursula. These Wolf Tooth Morse Cages were fitted to Denise. Made from hand-bent hollow stainless steel. The base is drilled not for weight reduction, rather to ensure easy adjustment and ultimately, compatibility with most contemporary framesets. Aside from small compact geometry models, it's also intended for use with bikes using frame fit luggage, such as this Topeak Midloader TOPEAK MIDLOADER FRAME BAG | cycling-not-racing  

Aesthetics aside, bar tape should be pensioned off fairly regularly. Frequency is a hotly debated topic and depends on who you speak to. Abrasion, loss of damping, fading, failing backing adhesive. Seasonally on cross and similar competitions machines, or those doing regular service on indoor trainers.

Bar tape on bikes doing regular turbo trainer service are typically contaminated by sweat, salt, energy drinks. A corrosive cocktail that can result in bar failure. No, not an urban myth.  

Staying with bars, Magishine has sent me their Hori 1300 front light. Magicshine’s build quality and overall performance continues to improve and ultimately impress, especially given the asking price. The Hori features a CNC machined anodised aluminium alloy casing compliant with IPX6 for weatherproofing, pumps out a maximum of 1300 lumens, dipping to 900, 400 and 200, which caters for most road biased contacts.

I should also point out; the lens uses the increasingly common car-type cut off beam to project the light downward and without dazzling oncoming traffic. There are two powerful day and night flashing modes -800 lumen day and 200-1000lumen night, a wireless rechargeable remote.

There’s a very versatile range of mount designed to stack accessories for a really clean aesthetic- a Garmin computer up top, light in the middle, GoPro camera at the bottom, saving considerable real estate. However, those with busier cockpits can always go for the extended mount, positioning the light out front, clearing cables, smaller handlebar bags etc. Right now, I’m in child at Christmas mode but time and mileage will tell.