Swapping, Selling & Getting One’s Leg Over

After last week’s forward planning and kit harvesting; I’ve been busy with the post production phase of a Punjabi wedding; burning them to disc for the brides’ family. 

The Univega’s 2x9 cut down continues to delight, ditto the Avid shorty 4.

Minor cable stretch corrected, grabbing a handful of front lever delivers satisfying amounts of bite. Yet to receive the free parable T2 http://www.cyclemiles.co.uk/shop/blow-the-budget/t2-single-wheel-bicycle-trailer/ but bombing missions along 1in7s with this store branded Yak homage en tow suggests I’ve got the mix right.

Now; I really like the free parable cleat system, allowing the cage to be clipped on/off at will but it’s proved incompatible with pump brackets. Hence, for several weeks mine cadged a lift in the tubby tourer’s Axiom Gran Fondo pack.

The arrival of this surprisingly Tardis-like, passport priority quick release wedge pack put paid to that and demanded a rethink of bottle geography. Fitting two bottles in the main triangle of smaller semi/compact geometry frames can require lateral thought.

Side entry cages are my default solution, although in this instance, a quick game of musical cages saw adjustable Topeak Shuttle cage and pump mounts on the upper set of down-tube bosses. Moments later; that Unich midi pump was riding shotgun once more.

With careful organisation, the passport priority quick release seat pack will manage pretty much everything the Axiom did-two multi-tools, tyre levers, spare 26x1.95 goo filled tube, patch kit Co2 inflator and cartridge. Admittedly, we are talking full to the gills but not enough to put strain on the zipper.

It’s made from rugged waterproof polyester with semi-rigid internal base. Stitched construction renders it water repellent but thus far, this should only be an issue for hardcore trail riding, or those determined to shun mudguards on the wettest days.

While continuing a rationalisation of my parts bin, I happened upon these older aluminium bodied time; so swapped its resin bodied ATAC 4 over to the teenage dream. Shimming the makeshift mudguard mount brackets with scraps of old inner tube has also cured minor, though irritating chatter over roughly surfaced tarmac and of course, unmade roads.   

Back to the test goodies, this Fizik Antares R5 Kium road saddle was another highlight for my discerning derriere. Titanium alloy rails, carbon composite base 205g... An odd choice for the Tubby tourer, though having fallen for Selle Italia’s Flyte and similarly minimalist models during the late 90s, I thought I’d strike a comparison.

Somewhat predictably, the more upright stance places much greater weight on the saddle; so even allowing for the shells’ inbuilt damping and springy (but not whippy, rails) 100miles in and things turned decidedly uncomfortable.

I’ve reverted to this relatively broad, though medium density, gel impregnated Selle Royale with cro-moly rails; something of a departure, though arguably more comfortable than the carbon railed turbo matic that usually graces its BBB skyscraper.  Switching the Antares to the Holdsworth, Teenage dream and other road configurations-its intended genre; my buttocks are singing a much sweeter tune.    

Staying with this region but at the other end of the price spectrum; some bargain in-house shorts, jackets and jerseys from big sports and supermarket retailers have also been gracing my battered body.

These aren’t for Seven Day Cyclist; rather another highly respected publication who I write for under a pseudonym. It probably goes without saying that I love all kinds of machines and equipment. From pared to the essentials carbon exotica to fully-faired recumbent trikes, tandems/specialist builds and most things in-between.

However, at SDC, we have a particular nose for lightweight, practical, well-equipped yet fun-to-ride workhorses. In the literal sense, a commuter can take any guise you like. Admittedly, most of my willing Dobbins have been mtb or tourer based, especially in the concrete jungles but I’ve used more traditional fixed/ geared trainers to good effect when covering longer distances.  

Charge Grater 2 has certainly fired our imagination for this very reason. Described as a hybrid; which it is in the literal sense, I’ve shied away from the term given its connotations of lower end sit up n’ beg 700c builds that came along in the early 90s and overshadowed some very capable commu-tourers...

2x9 transmission, disc brakes, full guards, flat bars- we’re in decent commuter, straight from the box territory. Have had a quick word; Charge suggested they’d be happy for us to have a play but waiting for their distributors to give the final nod. WD40 also like what they see-they’re sending us samples from their GT85 range of lubes, polishes, degreasers and bike wash. 

Badly Locked Bikes & Bundles of Kit

Bike theft is a perennial problem and unfortunately, very lucrative given there is a ready market for stolen goods. Thieves lack mercy and compassion.

You and I have a bond with those frame tubes, a connection to those components and little, personal touches-freedom, fun, friendship.

The thief sees cash, another order met, others a fleeting hit of heroin to mute the spiralling misery of addiction and their steadily collapsing veins.

Those years spent living and riding in London’s seamier districts cultivated a belt n’ braces pragmatism. Given theft is in epidemic territory, I’m constantly staggered by the numbers of sitting ducks-easy pickings for the light fingered. Take this fixed gear Trek spotted in central Coventry.

Yes its parked in very public locale’ but only secured by the top tube using a modestly priced armoured chain…This might look the part but easily defeated in a matter of seconds with bolt cropper, which the owner has thoughtfully left ample space for…

How about this no-name fixer and rather fetching flat bar Charge spotted outside Birmingham’s symphony hall... Again; tethered to an immovable object via a U lock, in a very public spot by their top tubes…Roomy enough for a brute force attack, wheels and other components are vulnerable to anyone of a dishonest mindset, equipped with a run-of-the mill multi-tool/set of Allen keys. 

These could then be broken for spares, sold on online auction sites, or built into a bike using a stolen frame, making its heritage much harder for rightful owners to spot (in the unlikely event they were recovered). Rule of thumb says buying the best locks you can afford- 10% of the bikes rrp is a good yardstick.

Some can defeat on looks alone but generally speaking, all decent locks buy us is time; time for a thief to be discovered or get frustrated and move on. Most work on the basis of sixty seconds. Longer and they’ll look elsewhere. The most professional will use vans and have various tools for defeating armoured cable, chain and shackle designs.

However, many simply use one system-combining a U lock and armoured cable/chain of similar quality can be enough to make a thief move on. Make it as awkward for them as possible. Fill the lock; keep the mechanism clean, lightly oiled and difficult for them to access. If it’s a pain for you, it’s all the more difficult for them and ultimately; the better your chances of remaining the rightful owner.

Expect a decent lock to weigh around the kilo mark- fine for carrying over the shoulder for a few miles but on longer commutes, these become decidedly uncomfortable, so best sitting in a pannier, or riding on their own frame or rack mounted bracket.

Sold secure are the benchmark most insurers go by and have three standards- Bronze, Silver and Gold. This denotes the time and sophistication required to defeat them. Bronze is ok for low crime areas but can be obliterated in sixty seconds using very primitive tools. 

Often regular commuters will leave their locks chained to bike stands and other street furniture-don’t. This makes thieves lives easier still, they note the lock, come back with the right tools-a row of bikes... gone.

Organised criminals often drive around in vans looking for and ultimately stealing bicycles/motorcycles. Takes six big men to lift a relatively small Harley Davidson but once inside, alarms and other security are instantly muted. Studies have also shown that even when crimes are being committed, members of the public tend to turn a blind eye...

Inspect potential hosts for weakness. Rusty railings are easier to cut through and gaffer/similar tape can hide evidence of cutting/tampering. Oh and make sure structures, such as parking meters can’t be unbolted, bikes lifted atop...Trees and other wooden structures should only be considered when your bladder is screaming defcon1.

Defeated by locks, the light fingered also take a shine to expensive components-stems, forks, derailleurs, saddlers etc. Arguably a commuter/daily driver shouldn’t be so exotic but hub dynamos and similar equipment is ultra practical. Replacement Allen bolts (Not the cheap as chips quick cam type) with unique keys are a wise investment, making “locusting” unlikely. 

Public service announcement served. Along with the Univega’s 2x9 transmission update, I’ve upgraded the front stopper in favour of these Avid shorty 4 cantilevers and compression less cables.

Setting up the Avids proved remarkably straightforward and this configuration offers improved modulation and feel with Microshift brifters compared with the TRP predecessors. Timely too; since I’m due to take delivery of a free parable design T2 trailer to compliment their Gorilla and Monkii cages. 

The latter has enabled resurrection of this Ibera stainless steel thermos bottle; consigned to my cupboard when it’s sprung cage bracket expired and replacement proved unavailable. Kindly Supplied by www.cyclemiles.co.uk to be reviewed in www.sevendaycyclist.com

Lord of the Rings

Cyclo cross’s renewed popularity over the past decade, has given rise to a more civilian sub genre with additional bottle mounts, carrier fittings mudguard/eyelets. Gearing has also been tweaked to cover most bases, including the occasional, muddy race.

My ‘cross bikes are of the more traditional flavour, although I’m very fond of the gravel/adventure bike concept such as Genesis Croix De Fer. This; coupled with some recent mixed terrain blasting and John Moss’s recent Mango revisions got me thinking about my tubby tourer’s gear range.

Having plumped for 11-32 Tiagra cassettes last time round, the 22 tooth inner ring is pretty much redundant. Even hauling a trailer full of kit along forest trails and unlit roads. 44 and 32 teeth provides ample bombing, cruising and winching prowess.

Given the mix of road and mtb drivetrain, persuading its STX mech to behave impeccably across the range; let alone year round has always been a chore. Pleased to report its much happier skipping between a 44 and 32. Super crisp shifting and I’ve saved a few precious grams.Removal proved very straightforward and cost nothing; aside from ten minutes and a   few turns of the front mech’s adjuster screw to restrict travel.  

Pruning triples comes in and out of fashion. The late 80’s mtb explosion saw many experienced riders removing the big ring on their protégé’s bikes to prevent knee damage, especially in grass roots competition.

This concept was later advocated by some sections of the British mtb press in 1990/91 and one I embraced. Off came my trail hack’s biggest bio-pace, the middle and granny rings rotated for improved pedaling efficiency.

Ironic, given Bio-pace and its procession of elliptical imitators supposedly dismissed the dreaded dead-spot. We all slowly reverted to round; bio-pace, bio-strong et al became the stuff of ridicule and bike shop bargain bins.

Fast forward a few years and the dispatch mob were charging through the capital on mtbs with skinny slicks, single rings and closely spaced cassettes...

Talking of which, the 90s weren’t all about dodgy concepts and race frames passed off as trainers. One of my small but significant favourites was Kona’s spatter effect colour schemes, which meant riders could unobtrusively retouch those inevitable chips and scratches accumulated on the trail. Any enamel paint (or nail varnish) would do and over time, became a unique, customised pattern-no more fretting about precise matches.

  

Said strip was performed almost exclusively using The Full Windsor’s Breaker multi tool and captured relatively late in the evening, on a Sony Cybershot WX350.

I acquired this long zoom point n’ shoot primarily for capturing impromptu stuff while out riding; aside from the slightly pedestrian write to card speeds (common to most compact and bridge models) overall image quality; especially in lower light is surprisingly good.

Most chain breakers are fairly effective for occasional tweaks-I used a Specialized EMT around the workshop for several years before the pin and spreader slots eventually crumbled. However, the breaker puts this function and sheer leverage first.

It’s made from high quality loss cast and heat-treated stainless steel. Loss cast refers to a very old fashioned, though extremely precise manufacturing process where molten metal is poured into a wax mould.

Seven inches long and complete with a retro-looking leather pouch, designed to be hung from the saddle rails, top tube, or stem. There’s breathing space in here for tube and some mini pumps for a clutter-free effect.

Plug in 3,4,5,6 and 8mm Allen keys, T25 torx, spoke wrench, bottle opener and an extension bar for improved leverage sit in a terrace made from recycled butyl. Last but by no means least; a Phillips for taming those temperamental mechs, cantilever balance screws and sloppy brackets.

Racers needing to make very slight, split second tweaks will prefer the quick draw, flip-out simplicity of folding tools. However, that additional torque is welcomed on day rides and rough stuff/touring where efficiency trumps convenience.

Fettling also proved an excellent opportunity degrease the LX rings, purge some oily frame preserve and add a colour coat to the Univega’s previously primed chainstay chip. Now, you’ll have to excuse me; sounds like the courier has brought us some free parable goodies from Cycle miles www.cyclemiles.co.uk for review in Seven Day Cyclist. (www.sevendaycyclist.com)

Bubbling Beneath The Surface...

The past ten days have been a roller-coaster ride of highs n’ lows; my illustrator, Michael J Murphy has brought the main characters in my series of children’s stories alive as Jpegs. 

Given digital media dominates and portable devices have become the viewing tools of choice; we’re considering releasing a narrated version for younger children.

In keeping with our everyday focus at Seven Day Cyclist (www.sevendaycyclist.com    https://www.facebook.com/Sevendaycyclistmagazine/?ref=aymt_homepage_panel ), we’re awaiting delivery of an interesting trailer or two.

Some of the team are leaving their wives behind and heading off for a quick gander at the Czech Republic...

My strange and some would say; irrational love of crumbling Soviet military/industrial sites, coupled with an uncanny ability to get arrested, detained and interrogated by the authorities means I’ll be testing kit on domestic soil through June…

A recent dry spell enabled me to slather some of my home brewed waxy preserve over the KA’s chassis and underside. 

Build quality seems an improvement over its predecessors, suggesting there’s some truth in the long held belief that last-of-the line cars were the ones to go for, since all the faults had been ironed out. That said; rust behind the filler cap remains as problematic as ever.

Moisture gets trapped between the rubberised seal and bodywork. A distinct lack of galvanising means the elements nibble away unsupervised until the bubbling becomes apparent. Thankfully, remedial action wasn’t too intensive. 

Having removed any flaking paint, I sanded the affected area; then added two light coats of Krust; a water-based neutralising agent before turning my attentions to my two-wheeled fleet while it cured.

Some minor play had crept back into the Holdsworth’s headset bearings, swiftly cured by a quick bit of spacer shuffling and introducing a 2mm “carbon” unit beneath the stem cap. 

Forty miles hence, suggests this unexpected flash of inspiration has solved the problem. 

WD40 water displacer is one of those truly iconic products; look in any household cupboard, garage, bike shop and chances are, you’ll find the blue aerosol (or 5 litre solution) sitting on a shelf/workbench.It’s not particularly kind to seals and other rubberised parts but inhibits corrosion, prevents squeaks, lubricates cables, pivot points, mechanisms etc. 

GT85 is another justly popular, Teflon fortified maintenance spray, which keeps these areas slicker for longer. It’s also owned by WD40 and they’ve also launched a bike specific GT85 range including bike wash, dry lube, degreaser and silicone polish.

While my preference (and that of many bicycle/motorcycle dealerships) errs towards high quality beeswax furniture polishes; dirt cheap, they achieve high quality, lasting sheens on painted, plated and polished surfaces with minimal effort. Silicone products also nourish plastics and rubberised components-suspension elastomers, seals being obvious candidates.

Traditionally, silicone based polishes-bike specific, or otherwise have tended to quickly cultivate grimy patinas. Credit where it’s due, while this formula still seduces some filmy grime, it is easily dismissed (almost as quickly as these U-locks) given a quick, soft-cloth onceover, though the lion’s share of protectant remains. Looking forward to putting the rest of their range through its paces...

John Moss is another perpetual fettler, perhaps unsurprising given his engineering career. In common with coach-builders and other engineering grade trades I’ve encountered in the past, he’s been trained to discover weaknesses and improve designs accordingly. His Mango being a prime example; Alfine 11sped hub, much bigger ring instated, gearing now permits 35mph at modest cadences and theoretically in excess of 80mph on a long descent!

Richard Ballantine once suggested that having motorcycle experience can be very beneficial when pushing recumbents hard-I was somewhat smitten with his “Speedy” during this period and would certainly indulge today...Along with some kind of 850cc trike project if other priorities and space permitted.

John affirmed that his ten years spent riding large capacity motorcycles develops an intuitive understanding of exactly when to push and of course, to back off.  He’s also learning to work with glass fibre and appears to have commandeered the couple’s trailer for solo shopping runs and other errands. The hitch is presently undergoing refinement so it tracks more accurately behind the Mango...   

Back to the KA

Next came three light coats of red oxide primer. Ideally a colour coat would’ve been applied but in my experience, these will keep the region solid and grot free. Before reinstating the filler cap assembly, introduce some decent quality, rubber friendly grease to the seal. It won’t cure the problem but greatly inhibits further bouts of grot and therefore, more intensive exorcism.

If you’ve bought a late model MK1 with no signs of corrosion in this region, I’d recommend a similar strip-out before filler and more serious intervention’s needed...