Got the Horn!

 

Bells are one of those annoying adornments fitted to new bikes, sold here in the UK. Beyond this particular legislative compulsions, they have little practical use. Inflamed tonsils aside, a well timed greeting, or yell works better (especially in dense, urban traffic) weighs and costs nothing.

A few manufacturers have developed horns, with varying degrees of success. Power, at least in the decibel sense was never a problem but even if the horn component didn’t consume much handlebar, it often gobbled a bottle cage.

Some also proved borderline aggressive-not what’s needed when you want to gently alert pedestrians of your approach, say along a forest trail, or designated shared use path.  Oregon based ORP https://orpland.com/ have kindly sent Seven Day Cyclist www.sevendaycyclist.com the latest version of their little horn, which combines a 5 mode LED light, capable of delivering 140 lumens and two mode horn.  

This blue version is for illustrative purposes only, since ours seem to have been “intercepted” by someone in the postal service. It’s tracked and apparently signed for but not by me, or a representative of.  I digress..

The cube shaped design, encased in a big silicone blanket, is, dimensions-wise, a blinkey on cortisone, so compact enough, even for my Holdsworth’s cockpit. The horn component has two decibel levels commanded by the “whale tail” switch. 76 for polite “I’m approaching” 96 for letting rip on the streets.

There’s an optional "Remorp" bar mounted extension cable, similar to that employed on some lights. The Moon Meteor Storm Pro https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/moon-meteor-storm-pro-front-light and Moon LX760 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/moon-lx760-front-light being cases in point. For cleanest aesthetic, arguably these should be run beneath the bar wrap.

I’m inclined to go this route, say with super sticky silicones, which don’t feature an adhesive backing, or alternatively, if you change bar wraps seasonally, along with control cables.

There’s a sound rationale’ for doing so, especially if you rack up big mileages. This practice isn’t simply about boosting morale during the darker months, or indeed a desire to buy new stuff. Rather, it could be considered a discipline, presenting the ideal opportunity to inspect contact points for early signs of fatigue.

Elsewhere, I’ve solved the phantom flatting problem with my MK2 Ilpompino build’s rear wheel-the one so meticulously crafted by John Moss a few weeks back. Revisiting with fresh eyes, it seems the rim-tape I’d used had shifted and with realignment, literally disintegrated. Some fresh Schwalbe in situ, new tube and Schwalbe Marathon 365 remounted, pressure’s holding nicely.

I was hoping to run it in, over the next couple of weeks but some other, project management (building works) is making access to my beloved working fixed tricky. Talking of which, I would be interested in trying the V4, which aside from disbanding the wish bone rear triangle, has reputedly adopted a more aggressive geometry-without losing its all weather versatility. http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/CBOOPOMPKOJV4/on-one-pompino-v4-drop-bar-urban-bike

Aside from some rather fetching wet spray colours, they’re also offering a raw version with a clear coat finish, which also intrigues me. I’d be interested to see how tough it was, compared with its 2pac counterparts; especially subjected to salty, winter roads.

I’ve had 7005 and 6061 aluminium alloy framesets hold up pretty well in these contexts, although ultimately stone chips allow moisture and condensation to build up beneath the lacquer, causing it to flake and in some cases, minor corrosion en route.    

Access issues and the arrival of the TF2 ultra dry wax has presented the opportunity to get the miles in on my Univega. Some would argue-not without grounds, that dry lubes are not meant for wet weather. I wouldn’t advocate their use during the depths of winter but it’s fair to say that summers are not always arid.

We’d expect a few wet rides and most lubes to remain in situ-especially during the summer months. In common with the Pure dry lube, it seems to be one of those which just attracts less dirt, rather than a self cleaning emulsion type that flakes off, taking contaminant en route. So far I’m impressed with its cleanliness and low friction. Be interesting to see how tenacious it is during a sustained period of changeable weather. 

 

Rides of Rediscovery

  

After several weeks, I woke the Univega from its slumber, swapped the Schwalbe Marathon GT 365 https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/schwalbe-marathon-gt365-tyre for some lighter Michelin Country Rock, the HT Leopard 878 for these Shimano A530 touring pedals and made good my escape along the unlit lanes.

I liked the Country Rock’s sprightly persona over dry, dusty trails but have found the casings vulnerable to sharps. Not just razor sharp thorns but flints too, hence their substitution.

Some riders are more prone to punctures than others. That said; there. Assuming hidden assassins, such as expiring rim tapes, protruding spokes or tyre beads aren’t the root cause, weekly inspection can greatly reduce their frequency.

Some riders swear by goo-filled tubes and I’ve had reasonable results, although find the sealant eventually goes-off. This can gum up the valves, preventing inflation and a nasty cut can see you battling a big old mess by the road, or trailside.  

Brushing the casings after you’ve been through shards of glass prevents them working inside the tyre casings as you ride. Weekly once-overs are the ideal time to give the machine a quick, sudsy bucket wash.

Tickle the casings, using a medium firm brush to dislodge any foreign objects, check the pressures with a reliable gauge and top up as required.

I initially leaned toward some 1.4 inch, wire bead, WTB Allterainasaurus. I’d bought the batch on offer-£14 for two pairs back in 2002 and ran one set on my mtb based Frankenbike cum daily driver.

Not the fastest rubber on asphalt but surprisingly reliable in the wet and I never succumbed to a flat-on, or off road. Narrower profiles also offer surprising bite along wet forest trails-provided you’re not pushing them beyond 18mph.

Quick enough for most, impromptu getaways from the madding crowd.  For the time being, I’ve gone for Schwalbe’s mighty Marathon 365 up front and Kenda’s sprightly small block 8 at the rear.

I like Oxford Products tyre scrub, which lacks the Green Oil eco brush’s versatility https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/oxford-products-tyre-scrub  but is inexpensive and delightful to use. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-bicycle-brush  These also make spotting nicks and minor cuts in the casing that bit easier. Fill any with a drop of superglue and like patched tubes, ideally leave this to cure overnight.   

An unplanned reconfiguration of the garage also unearthed my much loved Cool Tool. Arguably a game changer- the first modern bike specific multi-tool, it featured an adjustable wrench cum cone spanner, 4,5 and 6mm Allen keys, Phillips driver, chain splitter and 13mm socket for cranks. This one belonged to my late father.

A decade since his sudden death, I was relieved to reclaim it from the mischievous garage gremlin. Quaint and of little relevance to contemporary road and mountain bikes. Nonetheless, coupled with a smaller, eight function folding tool, it remains genuinely useful for my fixed gear builds.

Back to the chemical romance. Having tweaked the tubby tourer’s brake pads and arrival of these lubes and greases imminent, I decided then was the ideal opportunity to purge the waning, yet still unexpectedly tenacious existing lubricant. This had formed a lightly congealed glaze across the 9 speed cassette. The sort of fatty residue commonly found on grotty old cookers in bedsit land.

I’m not anti-petrochemicals, rather careful in their deployment, for several good reasons. Being as the “Soviet Block” was hosting a wealth of terracotta pots, I opted for the lawn, which dictates something turf, pet and plant friendly.

Concentrate FS1 seemingly in hiding, a healthy blast of “Mr Whippy” (Fenwick’s foaming chain degreaser) was an obvious alternative. Give the aerosol a vigorous shake and deliver like a roadside ice cream vendor.

Left a minute or so then tickled with a stiff bristled brush and rinsed with clean water, the impacted grime slithered away, revealing gleaming, unsullied electroplate beneath.

Since I’m long-term testing Muc-Off Team Sky Hydrodynamic lube on my ‘cross inspired fixed and Teenage Dream, I’ve dressed the Univega’s in some TF2 ultra dry wax. Be interesting to see how it performs in the real world and against other low friction, clean running wax blends.

 

Feeling the heat

Midsummer, in the tarmac melting sense has lingered longer than many naysayers predicted. I tend to ride during the cooler parts of the day/evening- a great opportunity to combine keyboard breaks and kit testing.

Given my late father was ex-services, protecting oneself from the elements, sun in particular was ingrained in me from a very young age.

Hence I tend to cover up. Long sleeves aren’t the most obvious choice perhaps but offer good defence. Especially when we’re talking coastal rides, where the mix of salt and wind can dry the skin, leaving the sun to induce some very unpleasant burns.

Merino wool keeps things more temperate than polyester/polyamide. Jerseys are increasingly featuring weaves with SPF50 protection, which is a definite plus.

Theory goes that the SPF numbers refer to the number of times longer you can be exposed before showing signs of redness/burning. So, at its simplest, if you could withstand 20 minutes without protection, factor 15 would extend this to around five hours.

Hmm, a sweeping statement and like most blanket generalisations, extremely dangerous. This doesn’t take into account skin type and other genetic influences, including susceptibility to skin cancer, lifestyle choices etc. There is some evidence to suggest, that a factor 50+ cream offers little advantage over a standard 50. Look for both UVA and UVB protection and reapply on a two-hourly basis.

Funny how these things from early childhood stick, I usually take a buff-type garment to protect the nape of my neck, decent quality sun glasses and plenty of water.  Whether it’s the classic two 750ml trade bottles, or one on the frame, another in a jersey pocket. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/the-back-bottle-water-bottle

Hydration packs certainly have their place and permit effortless sipping. They’re also a lot more hygienic off road. Provided of course, you regularly sterilise the bladder with Milton fluid (or a teaspoon of bleach) and don’t forget to clean the bite valve after use.

Remember to air them thoroughly too, otherwise mould and similar gut wrenching bacteria can bloom in between. Aftermarket bladders can be quite a step up in terms of quality. Something I discovered when an OEM reservoir failed at the seam, drenching me in really, sticky, wasp enticing energy drink… 

1.5 litre PET type cages are another brilliant idea for touring or longer group rides- especially with children. Run out of water? Stop at a supermarket/ off licence, grab a big bottle and slip into the cage. Paying for it (and anything else), first obviously!

Though one of my favourite cage designs, they do have a few, minor disadvantages.

Size is a double edged sword, especially on smaller semi/compact geometry framesets, where they can rule out a second, seat tube mounted cage. Minoura and Topeak’s Modula XL https://issuu.com/vortexcreative/docs/sdc_3_rev?e=0%2520%2F14991123  are popular designs, although their rubberised straps, though extremely secure, eventually perish/or fatigue. By that point you will have had your money’s worth and replacements are fairly easy to acquire, or even make.

BBB offers the fuel tank XL, seen here adorning my Univega’s down tube bosses. The 1.5 litre design employs a hinged, metal clamp, which is arguably the most rugged solution. We’ve a long term test coming up in Seven Day Cyclist www.sevendaycyclist.com

After a few months on the backburner, the first in a series of children’s stories is finally taking shape and will be released just as soon as the illustrations are finished. 
 




Right, I’m off to rack up some miles wearing these in Ribble Cycles Nuovo bib shorts and short sleeve jersey.

The teenage dream also sports these dual sided HT Leopard 878 pedals. I’ve resurrected these Scott twin bolt shoes (a) because the HT use their own, specific cleat system and (b) the Scott sport happen to be  very well ventilated.  

     

More Locks, More Lubes

These Schwalbe Lugano, have seen me switch to the skinny tubed charms of the “teenage dream”; a machine that I am still deeply endeared to, 26 years later. I corrected its builder’s disappointing quality control back in 2009. Poor reaming, egg-shell enamel and runny brazing, the most obvious, visual weak spots.

Clearance with mudguards can still present the occasional challenge but otherwise, I can ride, polish and enjoy. Seven Day Cyclist recently did a short haul (225miles) summer test of Muc-Off hydrodynamic chain lube. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/muc-off-hydro-dynamic-chain-lube

Developed in conjunction with team Sky, we were expecting something special and weren’t disappointed. Ingredients are cold wear secret, although and despite the 4hour curing time, I was surprised to discover we’re not talking petrochemical stock.

Nonetheless, use and store away from animals and children and don gloves if you are prone to dermatitis. The distinctive blue colour and extended spout, means most folks won’t have any problems achieving a consistent, even application.

However, there’s a UV torch for the last word in precision. Given my working fixed and teenage dream’s existing preps were thinning, I’ve stripped both in favour of the hydrodynamic and will see just how many miles can be racked up per application.

Muc-Off cite 400, which doesn’t sound particularly impressive, when cheap as chips, bog standard mineral oil/PTFE blends will return 200 in less intense conditions. However, we are talking an approximate, overall, four season’s mileage.

Staying with lubes, the Green Oil Eco-Spray also lived up to its promises https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/green-oil-eco-spray-lube Comparison with a traditional, heavy duty PTFE based spray is fairest. In its present guise, there are better options for those seeking to flush cables, or waterlogged blinkies through. It’s also twice the price of some very capable, store branded maintenance sprays.

I’ve been impressed with its staying prowess, versatility and overall economy.

Not so long ago you had to choose between performance and planet friendly. The latter have closed the gap, especially when it comes to light-middleweight lubes, degreasers and bike washes.

One thing that hasn’t improved is bike theft. So long as there is a market for stolen bikes, it’s going to remain a serious problem. On one level, all good security does is buy time. The longer it takes for a thief to work, the more noise they make, the greater the likelihood of them being caught.  

Conversely, security is only as strong as its weakest link. A properly deployed mid-range lock is more effective than a high-rent model used badly.

Ideally, a lock will have done its job as a visual deterrent, a would-be thief considers it too much hassle, so walks on by, looking for easier pickings. Pros in particular are looking to be away in the proverbial 60- seconds. Reality is, that passing strangers are not about to challenge someone wielding a portable angle grinder!

Talking of portability, it’s worth taking two different approaches. One when locking in the street, another at home. General riding, say on a road biased mtb hybrid, I’ve erred toward several kilos of armoured chain and disc combination. Usually reinforced with another, short shackle U lock for the front wheel.

Other people will opt for a series of high quality locking bolts to secure front wheel and expensive components, and a medium shackle U lock, deployed to thwart tools. Whatever your preference, expect to spend 10% of the machine's retail value i.e. £900 should be secured with a £90 lock.

That's assuming you don't have a deep, emotional attachment to the machine and components. Rightful owners will be able to tell the story behind (pretty much) every nick, chip or minor scratch.

Pros with vans are a different entity, since they can haul an arsenal of tools-unimpeded but the average “street walker” usually comes tooled up for one system, or the other.

Using two types is likely to see them scurrying along without stopping. With this in mind, I’ve just been sent these competitively priced, gold rated sold secure locks from On Guard www.todayscyclist.co.uk .

The 8001 Brute STD U lock retails at £54.99, which is pretty competitive for the level of protection and overall specification. The 8019 Mastiff chain lock retails at £65.99 and features a titanium reinforced hexagonal link chain, which supposedly rules out sawing and other, mechanised cutting techniques.

The short shackle also makes life harder for the light fingered. We’ll see how they are to live with, before the final, destruction testing. Stay tuned.             

Rub a Dud Hub......Shifting the Seized Sprocket

Well, despite herculean efforts, primal grunting and copious amounts of penetrant spray, the EAI Gold Medal Premium sprocket was right royally stuck.  Thankfully, John was around that morning, so I dashed down, inbred hub in hand. Locked within his vice, the usual, measured force was applied.

Extra long, custom brewed chain whips, hammer and punch shifted the lock-ring. Persuading the sprocket free ultimately lead to intelligently engineered force.

Having established the hub was at the end of its long and useful life, we donned ear defenders and he cuts the opposite flange square with his angle grinder. Flat flanges are easily gripped within the vice jaws, making lock-ring and sprocket extraction that bit easier...In theory. Practice proved a bit more involved...

The former required some blunt persistence, from his hammer and punch. A gentle tinkling as it bounced across the floor announced successful liberation.

Launching the final assault, John grabs his prodigious, home brewed chain whip and wraps it anaconda fashion around my prized, titanium oxide coated stainless steel sprocket. Starting gently, he steadily increases the pressure, working counter clockwise until it eases free-mission complete!

A reminder to strip, inspect and re-grease components regularly, especially those under a lot of force and in the firing line of dodgy water. John was trained by his father to strip his bikes on a monthly basis.

The argument is very persuasive. From a mechanic’s perspective, it enables easy evaluation of component health and any potential problems to be blitzed before bigger problems present.

Team mechanics will perform this at the end of each stage race, given the money and potential losses at stake.  Seasonal strips are arguably the best balance, especially on bikes seeing hard service. When testing really “stiff” greases etc, I may exceed this.

Given the amount of waxy frame preserve sloshing around inside my frames, bottom brackets and seatposts will usually relent with nominal effort-even after 12months or so. Fixed transmissions are low maintenance.

Beyond keeping an eye on tension and drizzling lube on the chain, sprockets are usually forgotten, until replacement, or some other remedial work needs doing.

White Lightning Crystal grease, as used on the Halo hub threads was my default. https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/white-lightning-crystal-grease 

However, I’d managed to misplace the tube in all this excitement. Hence, the new hub threads received a liberal basting of Park PPL1.

Galvanic corrosion (where metals of different parentage seize) is to be avoided, at all costs. Lessons have been re-enforced, so I vow to strip, inspect and replenish every three months. Watch this space... https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/wheel-building-part-one-theory-and-

Otherwise some rim tape and a 30mm tyre later, we are ready for road testing.  John reckons there might be some bedding in and spoke stretch during the formative miles. Frankly, this is to be expected and will necessitate another quick tweak on the jig but nothing out of the ordinary.  A bit like rot around Mk1 KA filler caps...          

By The Lorry Load

With temperatures creeping into the low 30’s, I’ve been re-bonding with my multi-colour fixed gear along the rapidly melting lanes.

Two full trade bottles maintaining my hydration levels and this UPSO stirling seat pack holding its essentials-tubes, tools and other essentials. Serendipity brought me a white/green version, which blends surprisingly well with the builds’ increasingly hap-hazard, yet strangely endearing colour scheme.   

So, the UPSO Stirling...Measuring 20x9cm, its part of a luggage range, made by hand, on solar powered sewing machines, using high quality recycled materials.  

The main fabric is Lorry tarpaulin, the zipper tags are fashioned from off cuts of fire-hose. Tethering to seatposts via an easily replaceable toe strap and stocky Velcro straps isn’t the only option either. 

I’ve combined ours with this passport frequent flyer wedge pack. The frequent flyer is made from a surprisingly hardy 600d codura nylon, which also moulds compliantly around the Cane Creek Thudbuster ST post.

The frequent flyer is another single compartment model designed to swallow the essentials-multi tool, spare tube, tyre levers, CO2 inflator etc. Efficient packers should be able to slip two 700x25c tubes plus the other basics without straining the zipper. Velcro straps might not be the sleekest arrangement but is as near universal as you’ll get.

The main reason why I’ve bar mounted the stirling boils down to my Pedros’ trixie tool. I mislaid/lost my Cool Tool which, though limited in terms of Allen keys, was blessed with a high quality adjustable/cone wrench with chain tool on the reverse.

It was also surprisingly compact, whereas the trixie favours leverage. Lock rings and similarly torque dependent tasks. It will just sneak inside the Stirling without causing mischief but prevents the tarp from forming a compatible arc.

Sway is one of those things that drive me (and many others) nuts. Thankfully, both tether very tightly, so a moot point.

Approaches to LED tabs are very different. Passport has taken the semi rigid plastic, UPSO the more traditional, webbed nylon strap route.

Both seem good, practical hosts to bigger blinkies and given the UPSO’s present location, compact commuter lights packing 200-350lumens.

The Stirling commands £30, which isn’t cheap but very reasonable when the cost of skilled, UK labour is factored into the equation. I also love the fact that otherwise scrap materials have been used to create a high quality product. 

Detailing is equally sharp where it isn’t so obvious. The zipper is highly water repellent, rather than proof but I haven’t noticed any ingress when tickling it provocatively, at close range using a high pressure hose.

That said; even taped and welded seams aren’t 100% waterproof. I’ve been known to line expedition panniers with refuse/garden waste sacks on really wet commutes, or weekend mtb excursions.

It’ll be a few weeks and several hundred miles in changeable weather before I approach any definite conclusions but thus far I’m certainly warming to it.  Elsewhere, in spite of the heat, John Moss has built; tensioned and trued the replacement, Mavic wheel to a meticulously high standard.

Characteristic of his generation of craft trained engineers; he is perfectionist in his approach and seeks to continuously improve a design or concept. Given I am not particularly heavy-in terms of weight, or riding style and the bike’s function, he seems confident  the tension and two-cross spoke pattern should prove reliable.

Next stage is coaxing that EAI sprocket free from the defunct Inbred hub threads, remembering a carpet of high quality grease (not to mention yearly replenishments)  rim tape and a 30mm section tyre.

Then I’ll start running it in. Mavic recommend sections between 19 and 28mm but I’m confident a couple of millimetres won’t cause any mischief. That said; despite the trend for increasingly large volumes, I wouldn’t chance anything wider.