Great Ideas & Getaways

 Snow and ice relented, I switched to the fixed gear winter trainer to get some proper miles on the CST pairing and kept Ursula’s spikes handy, since the reprieve was thought to be short-lived.  The CST tyres are proving compliant and engaging along the wintry lanes- much as I’d hoped and expected to be honest.  

I’ve deliberately gone the mix n’ match route to ensure I can evaluate performance in precisely the same conditions. Both hold their line very reliably around slimy corners and at 70 odd psi, there’s little hum from the Pika’s knobblies. Thus far at least, their respective tread patterns aren’t attracting much muck- the sort that thorns and other sharps get lodged in.   

I wasn’t expecting trouble with the K-lite Bike packer Ultra K LITE BIKEPACKER ULTRA DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) dynamo headlamp, but it began flickering and delivering little more than a glimmer.  

Thankfully, I had the Ravemen LR 1600 Ravemen LR1600 Front Light | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) as backup, so switched to that during the ride and replaced the K-Lite Bike Packer Ultra for the K-Lite Ultra LD (Low Drag) counterpart. K-LITE ULTRA LOW DRAG DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) This delivers 750lumens, which is lower than the1300 generated by its sibling but in my experience, the lower drag factor means you can ride faster and get full output, most of the time.  

Then, of course, the diodes are designed for road riding and there’s less impact upon navigational clout. I’m certainly not struggling to navigate pitch-black lanes at a decent lick. This also serves to illustrate why secondary and/or backup lighting is important, especially on longer rides.   

I had been tempted by On-One's Mulo frame On-One Mulo Frame | Planet X but aside from clearance for 40mm tyres at the rear triangle, there’s too little separating it from my fixed gear winter trainer, so no indulgences. I had heard a rumour that there was a titanium prototype of the Ilpompino frameset. I’d never heard of, let alone seen one.   

Lightweight, phenomenally corrosion resistant (wouldn’t need paint)- arguably my ideal basis for a winter/trainer. When it comes to framesets with a definite road heritage, Kona Paddy Wagon is another firm favourite of mine. Clearance for 700x28c with full-length mudguards (eyelets), two sets of bottle bosses.  

I reviewed it back in 2006 Kona Paddy Wagon 06 - BikeRadar but had too much going on financially to justify indulging. Obviously, I would’ve gone the hub dynamo and high-power lamp, SQR Tour route- all stuff of the classic British training bike. Would’ve doubtless upgraded the fork for something carbon with eyelets and by now, the OEM paintwork would’ve gone, replaced with a chrome effect powder-coated base and Rosso red topcoat leaving the rear triangle “half-chromed”.    

The Carbon Tech carbon fork was cut and prepped ready for transplanting, literally the afternoon it arrived but I stopped short of installing, given I was weary and didn’t want to get “committed” at that stage.  

I also (surprise, surprise) found a TRP HYRD caliper for the right price and thought it best to install the pair together and relubricate the lower race with some Juice Lubes Bearing Juice which all told, wasn’t conducive to rushing.  

I pruned the steerer tube, added Zefal Skin Armor to the blades, protecting them from cable rub and similar damage ZEFAL SKIN ARMOR ROLL | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com), instated the Star Fangled Nut and quit while ahead.  

There’s often a fine line between the euphoria of accomplishment, which hides the inner fatigue and is superseded by a lingering frustration of being behind.  In terms of weight, these tip the scales at 742g, its almost 100g heavier than the Kinesis KINESIS DC37 DISC FORK | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) but I’d rather a bit of overbuild at this end of the market. 

The fixed’s VDO computer’s head mount battery was nagging me about its impending demise, so I switched that and checked some small fasteners while I was there.   

Talking of building stuff, I loaded up the KA and headed to the Welsh borders with Sharon for a festive break. We’d been wanting to see the British Ironwork Centre & Sculpture Park in Oswestry for several years and managed to catch it, before Christmas closing. We arrived with a couple of hours grace and while light was still favourable. I took these with 30mm 1.8 prime and 16mm f2.4 prime lenses bolted to Samsung NX1000 and 3000 bodies.  

Minus 6 & Winter Mindfulness

 By UK standards, it’s felt bitterly cold for the past few weeks. The Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro and their 240-spike Schwalbe Winter Plus counterparts have been making riding through sheet ice and snowy lanes realistic and relatively pleasant.  

I’d resurrected my Vanguard Belgian style cap and lined these laminated, wind and waterproof gloves with the Specialized liners. Even so, the biting cold had been nibbling at my digits, urging me to maintain a brisk tempo, especially on the return leg.  

It’s thawed since, but despite the conditions, Ursula remained surprisingly clean, thanks in no small part to mudguards (fenders to those of you in the US/Canada). Surprising how much difference they make, so if you’re riding in winter, fit them where possible. My expander wedge solution to Ursula’s front guard mounting required some minor revision.

 

Some play had developed, eradicated by adding two 2mm composite Aheadset spacers, providing the top cap with something to lodge against. One from Ursula’s stem-replaced with a blue anodised aluminium example. The other from my small parts pot.    

Clip-on designs have come a long way too, these Mud Hugger  https://www.sevendaycyclist.com/mud-hugger-gravel-hugger-mudgurads are another good bet, if your frameset will not accept, or you want something less permanent, dare I say time-consuming to fit than full-length models. However, there are pre-assembled designs, which are much easier than traditional models to fit. Steve’s been impressed with these Kranx FendR Full Length Mudguards Kranx FendR Full Length Mudguards | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) 

According to the chain checker, the KMC chain remains in rude health and the Wedltite Ceramic held on. Scuzzy side plates encouraged a purge, using Green Oil Clean Chain Degreaser Jelly. I’ve since switched to Wedltite TF2 Performance All Weather Lubricant TF2 PERFORMANCE ALL WEATHER LUBRICANT | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) since it was handy and, in my experience, stoical for an inexpensive lube. No curing times either.  

Indeed, staying with an icy, snow narrative, some 700c builds may only have clearance 700x40c spikes but sans guards. 

The other thing to be mindful of during these harsher, colder days, is bringing bikes into extremes of temperature e.g., from minus 6 to 23-degree kitchen, or utility room, for example. This will cause moisture to build up, especially within metal framesets, fostering corrosion. Frame Saver and Waxoyl certainly mitigate this, but still.  

A few teaspoons (or indeed a syringe full) of gloopy 10w/40 motor oil sloshing around a metal frame’s inner sanctum will also work as a preserve, albeit less effectively. Carbon fibre is quite a conductive material, so ensure to employ a decent, ideally synthetic grease on metal inserts (bottom bracket shells being prime examples) to prevent galvanic corrosion.   

Ironically enough, conditions have thawed a little since I first put fingers to keyboard-I've kept Ursula shodded with spikes but able to enjoy some fun on the fixed, which I shod with the CST Expedium and Pika tyres, just before temperatures plummeted.  Formative impressions are favourable, both are relatively perky and engaging, yet very compliant. Given their width, the Pixar’s puncture-repelling belt only covers the centre strip, so time will tell as to their puncture resistance.   

As I’m always saying, reliability is key to enjoying winter.  After seven years, I’ve been reflecting upon the integrity of the Kinesis DC37 Disc Forks. Now, the lifespan of carbon components (although forks in particular) is hotly debated.  

Without taking the ultrasound thermal imaging inspection route shown here A Visit To Carbon Fibre Bike Repair | Seven Day Cyclist, it’s difficult to comment upon the fork’s integrity and given the variables of age, mileage and potential cost implications of an accident- lost earnings, dental and other bills, I’ve decided replacement is the best move. Given the DC37 is no longer available and tapered steerers increasingly the norm, options were more limited.  

I needed something with disc mounts and preferably mudguard eyes. Didn’t fancy a carbon steerer, nor did I want to risk buying a direct from-manufacturer auction site special. After some thought and hand-wringing, a cyclocross specialist I used to deal with sprung to mind.  

True enough, they had such a model, so after some further reflection, I decided they were the best choice and will fit to coincide with cable replacement, or similar job, no immediate rush. Tyre size is reckoned a little more restrictive than the DC37 but still good for 40mm, so I should be fine.  

Disc braking, though not the only option, has some definite benefits in winter. I’ve decided I’ll upgrade both Ursula and fixed gear winter trainer’s TRP SPYRE SLC to the TRP HYRD hybrid systems-at the right price (and I’ll be holding on to the fully mechanical callipers). Now, as many will point out, most riders go mechanical, or hydraulic. I’d toyed with the fully hydraulic route and there’s a lot to appreciate.  

Set up correctly, they’re pretty maintenance-free, save for pad changes and a spot of generic cleaning. However, bleeding can be a chore and there’s more cost involved- new lever(s) for starters. Though rare, bust a hydraulic hose in the arse end of nowhere is not good news- replacing a cable, is infinitely easier.  

Detractors will comment that any benefit of a hybrid system is offset by its limitations. The TRP HYRD employs a hydraulic reservoir that still requires periodic bleeding and cleaning and without the outright power advantages that full hydraulics offer. Now, the HYRD system has been around for a good while and I got along very well with it on a test bike, ten years back.  

Most hydraulic systems are open these days, meaning that they draw pads closer to the rotor while the Spyres need to be manually tweaked with a 3mm Allen key. Hardly a hardship but a definite plus during a harsh winter, or cyclocross racing. TRP supposedly employs a Bakelite piston to insulate the hydraulics against braking-generated heat. That coupled with my moderate weight, should rule out fade and similar problems, while (theoretically) extending periods between fluid changes. Hmm, we’ll see...