Women have interests, Men have obsessions

 

A common remark and anecdotally, quite accurate. There are varying degrees of this, but I will confess to having an obsessive streak, although in day-to-day life, am very adept at keeping these in check. The ability to obsessively tweak, refine and adjust stuff (with episodic euphoria and despair) can prove all encompassing.   

The wait for a new headset brought with it time to reflect and some switching round of the fleet. I’ve decided to take the fixed gear winter/trainer a more minimalist route, switching the Topeak Super Tourist DX over to Ursula and porting the Kinekt Waterproof Saddlebag KINEKT WATERPROOF SADDLE BAG | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) back over. This has meant the front end is now heavier than the rear, primarily down to the Shutter Precision PD8 HALO CLASSIC RIM & SHUTTER PRECISION DYNOHUB DISC WHEEL BUILD (sevendaycyclist.com) dyno hub front wheel.  

A week of torrential showers led to some very muddy lanes and hedge clippings flushed from the verges, spelled punctures. Mercifully, these were pedestrian and only made themselves known several hours post ride when I was home. Tiny holes, so easily patched and no obvious damage to the tyres. I have switched Denise’s front from the WTB Nano WTB Nano TCS Tyre | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) to the Maxxis Ravager TR Maxxis Ravager TR Tyres | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) which are slightly friskier and more resistant to thorns and hedge clippings.  The perpetually wet conditions are brilliant for evaluating waterproof kit, including these Shimano MW7 booties, which have stiffer soles and Boa fasteners for a precise fit.  

As I’ve said before, water will creep in via the cleat drillings, but this is easily subverted with waterproof socks. Will also be interesting to see how well the Oxford Mint Bicycle Assembly grease copes with the darker, colder and wetter conditions. Yes, I assembled the cleat hardware with it.     

With the Topeak Super Tourist DX switched, the Ravemen TR100 now clings limpet like from the fixed’s mono stay. 

Headset issues resolved courtesy of this FSA and another spacer, I bolted the front end back together, applying lashings of the Juice Lubes Bearing Juice. The lower race bearings are cartridge, the upper balls, but if you’re going the hybrid route, this is the way things should go. While both upper and lower races feature seals, I’m a believer in liberal amounts of grease to keep things buttery smooth and pitting free.  

 

 

I’ve also gone belt n’ braces, fitting a butyl tube boot to the lower race to lock winter right royally out.  Front end reinstated and behaving perfectly, I turned my attentions to the drivetrain, wiring up the STX front mech, fitting a chain. I left the front mech cable stretching for twenty minutes, on the big ring and then pulled it through before turning my attentions to the rear.  

 

To my horror, nothing would sync. Closer inspection revealed I’d been seduced by the lure of a bargain shifter, only to discover it’s an MTB version. Inconvenient, but I’m to blame and it’s hardly the world’s end. I had a quick wander round the web, bought another, double checking it was the road version. Not such a bargain, but still favourable and moreover, the right model.   

  

The pull ratio for road and mtb are different, hence the issue. Trying to get it to mesh would be an exercise in futility and wasted time. I’d also noted the inner wire had also frayed annoyingly, but not altogether surprising, since it was a workshop basic, rather than premium quality unit. Sometimes we get bargains but in keeping with life generally, we get what we pay for. Often, there’s not a massive jump in price between staple and mid-range.  The left-hand side was fine, given front mechs aren’t indexed.  

 

Some more enforced leave but crucially progress is being made and the headset issue, sorted. Just a question of wiring in the new bar con, dialling the rear mech in, wrapping the bars and maybe tweaking the rear brake. During this episode, I managed to break the pin of a rather nice chain tool- weird since everything was correctly aligned, and I wasn’t applying undue force…My first attempt to wash the bar wrap didn’t remove as much of the oily patina as I’d first hoped, so I gave that a degreaser pre-wash, agitated that with my Oxford Tyre scrub and then tossed it in the machine at 30 degrees, along with some equally funky riding kit.  So near, yet so far…

 

Frankensets

 

I’d continued to build Ursula in short, little and often bursts. I’d instated the Microshift bar con, replaced a tube in the rear Ryde XT wheel and inflated the Continental Cross Kings to 55psi and then began contemplating Ursula’s bar tape. Change for changes sake, a new era? I didn’t want to say goodbye to the Cycology 8 days Cycology 8 days Handlebar Tape | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) just yet, but fate (and the elements) had other ideas. I’ve gone for the Acros Silicone Bar Wrap LONG-TERM TEST: ACROS SILICONE BAR WRAP | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) the orange rather than blue, given winter’s looming. It's easily wrapped and naturally sticky, so no need for a backing adhesive, which makes cable swaps that bit easier.   

While I pondered this, my place in the Universe etc., I decided to install a fresh set of Microshift bar cons. There was nothing wrong with the original left shifter, but I decided since I needed to fit the rear bar con, I may as well go for uniformity at this stage. I want the rebuild right, from the off. Jagwire Road Elite sealed cables (173g complete and uncut) were also installed but fatigue left me convinced I’d a full set of derailleur cables. I had several inners but only one outer and one complete set of ferrules. I left everything snug but not pruned and decided to quit while ahead.   

The following day, I managed to whip the rear wheel in, set up the rear brake calliper and fitted a KMC chain, using the sleeping hub to hold everything in alignment. I’ll dial in the rear mech another time, probably when the front mech cable arrives. Meantime, I’ve popped the Acros tape (left side) into the wash.  All was going well until I tried the headset. Having stripped the Stronglight unit, I discovered it wasn’t all it seemed- a frankenset, made from bits of headsets. I had another, a cartridge model bought a while back and yep, despite being in a sealed envelope, was also missing parts. Bottom line, I was weary of wasting any more time, removed the Stronglight and bought an FSA, consigning the former to the bin.   

Elsewhere, the ORP Smart HornTESTED: ORP SMART HORN (sevendaycyclist.com) has returned to my fixed gear winter/trainer’s Genetic D-Riser 4 bars GENETIC DRISER 4 HANDLEBARS | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com) The two-tone powder coat finish is enjoying its 9th birthday and is still in great shape. Though wet has been the primary narrative of the past fortnight, I found time to give the bike a seriously good clean, removed the seat post and blasted some of the waxy corrosion inhibitor inside.  I hung it up for a few days, switching to Denise for some fun along the lanes, allowing the fixed’s corrosion inhibitor to cure thoroughly.   

More lights have been coming our way-as you’d expect, given we’re entering the darker season. Magicshine See Mee 100AD Rear Light, which can produce, you guessed it, 100lumens. AD stands for Auto Detect, referring to the sensor system, which produces a more intense flashing light when it senses another vehicle approaching. It can also be synced with other compatible taillights for heightened presence.  

Not forgetting the Alty 800 V2.0/1200/1200U front lights. IPX6 for weatherproofing seems increasingly to be the default, which is good news for most consumers. It’s not waterproof in the submersible sense, but will certainly fend off very heavy rain, standing water, mud too, in my experience.  

I’ve not had too much issue with lights confirming to the lowlier IPX4 over the years- at least for road biased duties. However, there have been occasions when I’ve needed to flush a drowned unit out with a few liberal blasts of water displacer.  

Formative impressions suggest the See Mee 100AD sensor is very accurate and the flash deployed remarkably effective at grabbing and holding attention. Theoretically, this should mean being able to run a lower setting, conserving power and letting the intelligent technology do its thing when other vehicles approach.  

This doesn’t come naturally to me. Surrendering to tech’s mercy isn’t something that sits naturally with me but in the interests of testing. I’ll give it a go. The relatively flat lens design also aroused some minor concerns around peripheral presence, say when crossing junctions etc. but the projected light seems to counter this.  

Another nice feature is mount compatibility with others in the SeeMee family, so I can just switch places with the See Mee 50Mag, or indeed, the SeeMee100 and SeeMee 200 V2 without any issues. Super convenient and very welcome. It also makes sense from the vantage point of manufacturing economics.      

You Never Know What’s around the Corner.

 

Belting along a wet, greasy backroad, just past sunrise I was suddenly serenaded by an awful loss of traction and disconcerting chatter- the fixed’s chain had derailed. I’m not sure who was more horrified- me, or the feline preening itself as I entered the bend. Pulling over to the left I discovered it had mysteriously jammed between the chain tugs. A moment of panic quickly subsided, and I reached inside the Topeak MTX Trunk Dry BagTopeak MTX Trunk Dry Bag | cycling-not-racing (sevendaycyclist.com)for my Pedros Trixie and Pedros’ multi tool, so I could slacken the tug and the track nut.  

I was relieved to find these and doing so released the chain without incident. I hooked it back on the sprocket and front ring checked alignment and snugged the track nut down, ditto the chain tug. Tension sorted, I continued, relieved I wouldn’t be doing a ten-mile walk of shame. I’d just pulled in at home and discovered the front WTB Exposure rapidly losing pressure.  

Well, if it was going to happen, now would be most convenient. One thing led to another. Popped the fixed gear winter/trainer on the work stand, whipped out the wheel and traced the flat to a hedge clipping buried in the tyre’s shoulder. I nearly missed it, having swept my hand around the Exposure’s casing, found nothing and instated a new tube. Thankfully, I was able to free it with this set of needle-nose pliers. Tyre remounted and 70psi inside, I found myself busy with sudsy bucket and Green Oil Massive brush, giving my faithful friend a good clean.  

While cleaning the Spyre SLC calliper, I noticed the semi-metallic pads were OK but showing signs of wear. With more taxing conditions coming, sintered seemed the way forward. Always prudent to have consumables set by, since stuff often wears out at the least convenient moments. I also found another two 10speed chains while having a rummage for a suitable tube (not wanting to deplete the on-bike supply). The Ravemen LR1000 continues to impress me with its output and features- the ability to extend run times, refuel tech and indeed, the battery via another battery or power bank. The Wired remote doesn’t come with the package, I got curious and tried that belonging to the LR500 but being a few years old, the port end was micro-USB, while the LR1000 is the contemporary USB C.  

 I’ve also received this Zefal Supervision R150, which as the name suggests is a rear light producing 150lumens.  IPX6 for weatherproofing bodes well for wet winters and 5 modes (3 steady, two flashing) continue the practical narrative. I’m pleased to note a 15-lumen steady, which is punchy but not overpowering for town duties. The flashing are 150 and 50 lumens, which is great for daylight running and dark nights but overkill for other contexts, which may be a turn off for some. Weirder is the fact it isn’t supplied with a USB C charge cable. Given these things are ubiquitous and dirt cheap (unless that’s the logic for its omission) I’m astonished as to why one hasn’t been tossed in as standard. There are some other interesting quirks. The switch requires a sustained three-second press before the light will power up/down, a second longer than typical these days, which initially convinced me I must have a duff unit that wasn’t charging properly .      

Bike cleaned, re-lubed and put away, it was time to do a quick stint with Ursula. Fitting the headset and forks, specifically. Everything came together nicely, the new Stronglight unit given a liberal bed of Juice Lubes Bearing Juice.   

Inspecting the long serving One23 stem led me to pensioning it off- there was some weakness around the lips. It had done ten years or so and owed nothing. Took a while to track down a suitable substitute, but this ZOOM has proven to be perfect-a quick game of musical spacers and all sorted.  I also ordered some fresh stainless steel bottle boss screws from another supplier.  

I’m all for re-using good stuff but rebuilds are an opportunity to inspect, evaluate and replace things, as necessary. Unless they’re dog eared, I tend to put unwanted fasteners into the spares pot and carry a couple in a sealed packet on the bike, just in case I should lose something-a mudguard, or light mount for example. These and the cages were fitted during the same session and using the Oxford Mint Assembly Grease.